Backup Camera ghosts
#1
Backup Camera ghosts
I've searched the forum regarding issues with the parking aid camera but most of them deal with cameras that are unavailable or blank screen. Obviously the camera works...the maneuvering lane markings will move when steering wheel is turned. I haven't checked the wiring loom since I'm reluctant to pull hard on the rubber conduit btwn the trunk lid and body. The attached photo is self explanatory and any suggestions would be helpful. The car is a 2013 XFR-S.
Last edited by VetteOwner; 11-22-2020 at 09:57 PM. Reason: add'l info
#2
Looks like you're either getting interference or there is a poor connection somewhere.
At a total guess I'd suspect the cable that goes through the trunk hinge is breaking and creating a poor conductor. Could also be the the connector on the camera itself getting corroded from water ingress.
You can check the resistance between the connections on the camera and the main trunk wiring harness without removing the rubber seal. Remove the internal trim on the trunk lid to expose the wiring, there's a connector in there that connects all the trunk lid electronics to the trunk hinge link harness, and from there you can remove the chrome trim to get to the camera itself. In the trunk, just above the RSJB (you'll need to pull down the internal trim) there's another connector that links the trunk hinge link harness to the main trunk harness. Pin test these connections for the camera signal, wiggle the trunk hinge link harness when doing so and see if the resistance changes. If you get anything other than near 0ohms the cable is probably failing. You can re solder broken wires but that either creates hard bits of harness which then also tend to break, or you have to feed a new wire through the rubber, which is a pain in the ****. When mine failed I picked up a new trunk hinge harness loom for about £40 (~$55) and just plugged it in, took about 20 mins to do.
If you are feeling adventurous you could tap into the camera output in the trunk lid and feed it into another monitor of some sort, its just a composite video out signal, and see if you get the ghosting there, if not then its somewhere in the harness back to the screen.
At a total guess I'd suspect the cable that goes through the trunk hinge is breaking and creating a poor conductor. Could also be the the connector on the camera itself getting corroded from water ingress.
You can check the resistance between the connections on the camera and the main trunk wiring harness without removing the rubber seal. Remove the internal trim on the trunk lid to expose the wiring, there's a connector in there that connects all the trunk lid electronics to the trunk hinge link harness, and from there you can remove the chrome trim to get to the camera itself. In the trunk, just above the RSJB (you'll need to pull down the internal trim) there's another connector that links the trunk hinge link harness to the main trunk harness. Pin test these connections for the camera signal, wiggle the trunk hinge link harness when doing so and see if the resistance changes. If you get anything other than near 0ohms the cable is probably failing. You can re solder broken wires but that either creates hard bits of harness which then also tend to break, or you have to feed a new wire through the rubber, which is a pain in the ****. When mine failed I picked up a new trunk hinge harness loom for about £40 (~$55) and just plugged it in, took about 20 mins to do.
If you are feeling adventurous you could tap into the camera output in the trunk lid and feed it into another monitor of some sort, its just a composite video out signal, and see if you get the ghosting there, if not then its somewhere in the harness back to the screen.
#3
Yep, I agree with fivel, and I can add that this is the fault symptom of a damaged coaxial cable, where composite analogue video is running through it.
I had the same issue, as well as intermittent boot un-lock issues.
Removing the covers and sliding the cable harness through the rubber grummet, I was able to carefully shorten and solder with heat shrink no less than 4 damaged wires plus the coaxial wire.
Everthing now works as expected.
Best of luck,
I had the same issue, as well as intermittent boot un-lock issues.
Removing the covers and sliding the cable harness through the rubber grummet, I was able to carefully shorten and solder with heat shrink no less than 4 damaged wires plus the coaxial wire.
Everthing now works as expected.
Best of luck,
#4
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Oxidizer2k (01-29-2021)
#5
You can re solder broken wires but that either creates hard bits of harness which then also tend to break, or you have to feed a new wire through the rubber, which is a pain in the ****. When mine failed I picked up a new trunk hinge harness loom for about £40 (~$55) and just plugged it in, took about 20 mins to do..
#6
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