Boot (trunk) lid does not open with remote fob or button - fixed
#1
07-26-2017 | 07:59 AM
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Scotland
Boot (trunk) lid does not open with remote fob or button - fixed
My boot lit opening became intermittent and finally stopped working. Having resorted to using the emergency key for a week, I decided to investigate.
On inspection, opening the boot causes the rubber flex covered cable to bend most at the car body end.
I prised out the car body end of the flexible black rubber duct boot that carries the cables from the car to the boot. (trunk). The boot is attached to the cable by the cotton binding tape and I had to snip the two rubber anchor points to pull back the flexi duct to expose the wiring loom. About 12 wires. One heavy one where the braiding was exposed, one with cracked insulation, and one wire broken through.
Wrapped the damaged insulation with tape. Stripped the ends of the broken wire. Soldered in a stranded wire link with a good loop to ensure no stress point at the solder joints where it could break again if only a short soldered link was employed. Insulated the repair with tape. Slid the flexi rubber back down and refitted the boot.
Now fixed! I thought that I should share this as I often use the forum to find answers. The wire had fatigued to the point of failure. A bit of a disappointment on a 2010 3 litre diesel with 30,000 miles. But very satisfying to fix at no cost!
On inspection, opening the boot causes the rubber flex covered cable to bend most at the car body end.
I prised out the car body end of the flexible black rubber duct boot that carries the cables from the car to the boot. (trunk). The boot is attached to the cable by the cotton binding tape and I had to snip the two rubber anchor points to pull back the flexi duct to expose the wiring loom. About 12 wires. One heavy one where the braiding was exposed, one with cracked insulation, and one wire broken through.
Wrapped the damaged insulation with tape. Stripped the ends of the broken wire. Soldered in a stranded wire link with a good loop to ensure no stress point at the solder joints where it could break again if only a short soldered link was employed. Insulated the repair with tape. Slid the flexi rubber back down and refitted the boot.
Now fixed! I thought that I should share this as I often use the forum to find answers. The wire had fatigued to the point of failure. A bit of a disappointment on a 2010 3 litre diesel with 30,000 miles. But very satisfying to fix at no cost!
