Bosch "010" charge cooler pump upgrade and ?'s
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi all, just swapped out the charge cooler pump today to the upgraded Bosch unit per other useful "how to" posts on this forum.
wanted to show couple pics of how i did it in case it saves anyone some time
also wanted to ask if anyone has info on operation and how/when the car sends power to this pump and if it runs 100% / if it can run 100% of the time.
so i raised up front of car and put jack stands under for safety.
i removed my engine under tray a year ago and it's never gone back on..
removed a few fasteners in each wheel well and a couple on the front undertray plus the ones in engine bay to swing front clip off to the side.
i put a rolling cart of appropriate height under the front clip and just rolled it off to the side, not even needing the wire harness for the front parking sensors to be disconnected.
so the "trick" for the pump swap is vice grips. so as not to damage the hoses with the teeth of the vice grips, i cut a piece of 3/4'' plastic pipe in half and used 4 "halves" to both protect the hose and make for a nice tight seal. doing this required no draining and refilling of the charge cooler loop. the amount of coolant lost was simply the volume in the pump plus a few inches of hose and easily absorbed by 3 or 4 paper towels.
wiring completed as per parts list in BW's post and swapped the upper rubber mount to new pump. New pump is larger diameter than old, so need to stretch it over. for lower rubber "mount", didn't like it, even after trimming, as i wanted to use the factory spring hose clamp again. discarded the lower rubber mount, connected hoses, released vice grips and inserted a 3'' long piece of rubber heater hose as a wedge where the lower mount used to be. seems to eliminate any nasty shaking / vibration about same as factory mount setups.
got it back and ready to drive. test drove. seemed like a nice and consistent acceleration in each gear through the hills.
the reason for the upgrade was i felt like sometimes by acceleration felt like the supercharger had been removed and other times like all was normal.. i took it to a track a month ago and on lap 2 i had restricted performance for remainder of the session, which was the first time i'd personally experienced this. i have just over 85k miles and sounds like the pump was probably performing in a lackluster fashion.
now time to find the drag strip again and see if the pulley, tune and intake valve cleanings were worth the effort or not.. !
if anyone can provide details on the operation and timing of this pump's energization, I'd greatly appreciate it.
wanted to show couple pics of how i did it in case it saves anyone some time
also wanted to ask if anyone has info on operation and how/when the car sends power to this pump and if it runs 100% / if it can run 100% of the time.
so i raised up front of car and put jack stands under for safety.
i removed my engine under tray a year ago and it's never gone back on..
removed a few fasteners in each wheel well and a couple on the front undertray plus the ones in engine bay to swing front clip off to the side.
i put a rolling cart of appropriate height under the front clip and just rolled it off to the side, not even needing the wire harness for the front parking sensors to be disconnected.
so the "trick" for the pump swap is vice grips. so as not to damage the hoses with the teeth of the vice grips, i cut a piece of 3/4'' plastic pipe in half and used 4 "halves" to both protect the hose and make for a nice tight seal. doing this required no draining and refilling of the charge cooler loop. the amount of coolant lost was simply the volume in the pump plus a few inches of hose and easily absorbed by 3 or 4 paper towels.
wiring completed as per parts list in BW's post and swapped the upper rubber mount to new pump. New pump is larger diameter than old, so need to stretch it over. for lower rubber "mount", didn't like it, even after trimming, as i wanted to use the factory spring hose clamp again. discarded the lower rubber mount, connected hoses, released vice grips and inserted a 3'' long piece of rubber heater hose as a wedge where the lower mount used to be. seems to eliminate any nasty shaking / vibration about same as factory mount setups.
got it back and ready to drive. test drove. seemed like a nice and consistent acceleration in each gear through the hills.
the reason for the upgrade was i felt like sometimes by acceleration felt like the supercharger had been removed and other times like all was normal.. i took it to a track a month ago and on lap 2 i had restricted performance for remainder of the session, which was the first time i'd personally experienced this. i have just over 85k miles and sounds like the pump was probably performing in a lackluster fashion.
now time to find the drag strip again and see if the pulley, tune and intake valve cleanings were worth the effort or not.. !
if anyone can provide details on the operation and timing of this pump's energization, I'd greatly appreciate it.
The following users liked this post:
Panthro (06-23-2018)
#2
#3
#4
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In case someone stumbles across this post like I did...
On my 2015 facelift XF 3.0L AWD the supercharger pump does not operate unless the vehicle is running. With only accessory on, there is no voltage at the fuse and the pump does not run. Start the car and 14.5v at both the fuse and pump plug.
On my 2015 facelift XF 3.0L AWD the supercharger pump does not operate unless the vehicle is running. With only accessory on, there is no voltage at the fuse and the pump does not run. Start the car and 14.5v at both the fuse and pump plug.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jaizero:
Adam J (08-14-2020),
Paul Fisher (11-11-2020)
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi all, just swapped out the charge cooler pump today to the upgraded Bosch unit per other useful "how to" posts on this forum.
wanted to show couple pics of how i did it in case it saves anyone some time
also wanted to ask if anyone has info on operation and how/when the car sends power to this pump and if it runs 100% / if it can run 100% of the time.
so i raised up front of car and put jack stands under for safety.
i removed my engine under tray a year ago and it's never gone back on..
removed a few fasteners in each wheel well and a couple on the front undertray plus the ones in engine bay to swing front clip off to the side.
i put a rolling cart of appropriate height under the front clip and just rolled it off to the side, not even needing the wire harness for the front parking sensors to be disconnected.
so the "trick" for the pump swap is vice grips. so as not to damage the hoses with the teeth of the vice grips, i cut a piece of 3/4'' plastic pipe in half and used 4 "halves" to both protect the hose and make for a nice tight seal. doing this required no draining and refilling of the charge cooler loop. the amount of coolant lost was simply the volume in the pump plus a few inches of hose and easily absorbed by 3 or 4 paper towels.
wiring completed as per parts list in BW's post and swapped the upper rubber mount to new pump. New pump is larger diameter than old, so need to stretch it over. for lower rubber "mount", didn't like it, even after trimming, as i wanted to use the factory spring hose clamp again. discarded the lower rubber mount, connected hoses, released vice grips and inserted a 3'' long piece of rubber heater hose as a wedge where the lower mount used to be. seems to eliminate any nasty shaking / vibration about same as factory mount setups.
got it back and ready to drive. test drove. seemed like a nice and consistent acceleration in each gear through the hills.
the reason for the upgrade was i felt like sometimes by acceleration felt like the supercharger had been removed and other times like all was normal.. i took it to a track a month ago and on lap 2 i had restricted performance for remainder of the session, which was the first time i'd personally experienced this. i have just over 85k miles and sounds like the pump was probably performing in a lackluster fashion.
now time to find the drag strip again and see if the pulley, tune and intake valve cleanings were worth the effort or not.. !
if anyone can provide details on the operation and timing of this pump's energization, I'd greatly appreciate it.
wanted to show couple pics of how i did it in case it saves anyone some time
also wanted to ask if anyone has info on operation and how/when the car sends power to this pump and if it runs 100% / if it can run 100% of the time.
so i raised up front of car and put jack stands under for safety.
i removed my engine under tray a year ago and it's never gone back on..
removed a few fasteners in each wheel well and a couple on the front undertray plus the ones in engine bay to swing front clip off to the side.
i put a rolling cart of appropriate height under the front clip and just rolled it off to the side, not even needing the wire harness for the front parking sensors to be disconnected.
so the "trick" for the pump swap is vice grips. so as not to damage the hoses with the teeth of the vice grips, i cut a piece of 3/4'' plastic pipe in half and used 4 "halves" to both protect the hose and make for a nice tight seal. doing this required no draining and refilling of the charge cooler loop. the amount of coolant lost was simply the volume in the pump plus a few inches of hose and easily absorbed by 3 or 4 paper towels.
wiring completed as per parts list in BW's post and swapped the upper rubber mount to new pump. New pump is larger diameter than old, so need to stretch it over. for lower rubber "mount", didn't like it, even after trimming, as i wanted to use the factory spring hose clamp again. discarded the lower rubber mount, connected hoses, released vice grips and inserted a 3'' long piece of rubber heater hose as a wedge where the lower mount used to be. seems to eliminate any nasty shaking / vibration about same as factory mount setups.
got it back and ready to drive. test drove. seemed like a nice and consistent acceleration in each gear through the hills.
the reason for the upgrade was i felt like sometimes by acceleration felt like the supercharger had been removed and other times like all was normal.. i took it to a track a month ago and on lap 2 i had restricted performance for remainder of the session, which was the first time i'd personally experienced this. i have just over 85k miles and sounds like the pump was probably performing in a lackluster fashion.
now time to find the drag strip again and see if the pulley, tune and intake valve cleanings were worth the effort or not.. !
if anyone can provide details on the operation and timing of this pump's energization, I'd greatly appreciate it.
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#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In case someone stumbles across this post like I did...
On my 2015 facelift XF 3.0L AWD the supercharger pump does not operate unless the vehicle is running. With only accessory on, there is no voltage at the fuse and the pump does not run. Start the car and 14.5v at both the fuse and pump plug.
On my 2015 facelift XF 3.0L AWD the supercharger pump does not operate unless the vehicle is running. With only accessory on, there is no voltage at the fuse and the pump does not run. Start the car and 14.5v at both the fuse and pump plug.
__________________
2008 XKR Convertible, (mods: AlphaJagTuning ECU Tune , 1.5lb pulley, (200cel cats( are now melted), xpipe, Bosch 001 pump, 180 Thermostat.
Drag strip : 7.9sec 1/8mi 90 MPH . 1/4 mile 12.55 at 111.98mph
432rwh Dyno on Mustang Dynometer , Approx 511 crank HP.
2013 XJ 5.0 Supercharged, (stock with Alpha Jag ECU tune), estimated power: 600+ hp, 7.7sec 1.8th mi/95mph
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/signaturepics/sigpic171814_2.gif)
Drag strip : 7.9sec 1/8mi 90 MPH . 1/4 mile 12.55 at 111.98mph
432rwh Dyno on Mustang Dynometer , Approx 511 crank HP.
2013 XJ 5.0 Supercharged, (stock with Alpha Jag ECU tune), estimated power: 600+ hp, 7.7sec 1.8th mi/95mph
#9
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In case someone stumbles across this post like I did...
On my 2015 facelift XF 3.0L AWD the supercharger pump does not operate unless the vehicle is running. With only accessory on, there is no voltage at the fuse and the pump does not run. Start the car and 14.5v at both the fuse and pump plug.
On my 2015 facelift XF 3.0L AWD the supercharger pump does not operate unless the vehicle is running. With only accessory on, there is no voltage at the fuse and the pump does not run. Start the car and 14.5v at both the fuse and pump plug.
#11
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a working stock 3 wire pump if you're interested. I ordered it after I found out the Bosch pump was only two wires but never used it as I figured out the wiring for the new Bosch pump.
#13
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The third wire is not needed. After the install I had no set/pending codes and still have none. My gut tells me the wire is some kind of sensing wire that looks for a short in the circuit in case the pump fails. The car doesn't care if the wire is used or not so it clearly doesn't care about an open on the circuit. I just wrapped the wire up in the new loom I made in case I ever decide to go back to the factory style pump. Like an idiot I threw away the original plug so I'd have to source a new one of those if I ever went back.
#15
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is the post with all the part numbers - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pgrade-152574/
The following users liked this post:
Oxidizer2k (11-17-2020)
#16
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No, I didn't take any pictures. There is a post on this forum that has a parts list. You need two special Mercedes Benz wires, and a special plug to fit the pump.
This is the post with all the part numbers - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pgrade-152574/
This is the post with all the part numbers - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pgrade-152574/
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