^ok maybe if you want to use the same rotors and you've already switched to ceramics and on your third pad change.

OP Here's a general rule of thumb for xf250 as our rotors are notoriously soft with oem semi metallic pads, it also goes for any other manufacturer that use soft rotors and semi metallic pads. (Theres no reason for it except its a cash grab)

If you are using oem rotors and pads, you should replace your rotors the same time you replace your pads. Doesn't matter about thickness because it will be chewed up from the pads before you need to worry about thickness.

If you have switched your rotors and are using oem or aftermarket rotors but are using ceramic pads then you only need to change your rotors on the second time you change your pads. Unless you experience warping, hot spots or deep grooves. Again, you will not have to worry about thickness because you will be replacing it after two pad changes. This is a preventative and piece of mind way to go about changing brake pads and rotors.

I would never machine my rotors on a 4000lb car, that is just asking for trouble.

Checking for thickness may apply for smaller or older vehicles but for xf250 and for most manufacturers, the rotors are plenty thick to not have to worry about it.

 

I replaced the pads and rotors on our 2009 XF, a couple of years back. I was taking the snow tires off for the season, and I happened to start with the rear tires first. I looked at the condition of the pads, and was very surprised to see how worn they were, for a car that had only about 25,000 miles, at the time. I continued on with the seasonal tire swap, as I was already into it, but the next day, I ordered a new set of pads and rotors, without really looking closely at the condition of the front pads.

Several days later, the new pads and rotors arrived, and I began to do the swap. Again, I started with the rear, and as I began to work on the front, I was rather surprised by the condition of the front pads. While the rears were pretty well shot, the fronts were hardly worn. However, since I already had all the parts, and was also switching to ceramic pads, to get away from the horrible dusting condition created by the OE metallic pads, I installed the new pads and rotors on the front, too.

I installed Beck Arnley rotors and PowerStop ceramic pads. I did the job about 10,000 miles ago, and have been completely satisfied with their performance.

 

I would disagree with the post that suggests you shouldn't measure rotor thickness. That is precisely how you tell if they are worn
Of course if they are badly scored, gouged or create pulsating when you use the brakes then you should replace them. But that's not normal

Typically it will get to the stage that they are worn below spec. It's a 10s job to measure their thickness then make the right decision. Maybe it's after one set of pads, more typically 2 and maybe with ceramic pads it's 3. But you don't need to guess... it's simple to measure

 

Are there any kind of aftermarket pads/rotors you guys recommend or should I stick to OEM only rotors and pads for my 2010 XF?

 

Heaps of good after-market pads and rotors available, just check Fleabay.
Lots of threads and posts around here as well.
The availability/options decrease as you go up in brake size, so stacks of pads and rotors for the 326/355 mm fronts and 326 mm rears and not so much for the 380 mm fronts and 376 mm rears. I don't think you ever got the 326 mm front brakes in the US.
So the first thing to check before you go searching and shopping is the brake sizes you have.
In general for a US spec 2010 XF you will have the 355 mm front and 326 mm rear brakes unless you have a 5.0 SC or XFR in which case you will have the 380 mm front and 376 mm rear brakes.
The after-market rotors are just as good as the OEM rotors (R1 Concepts are popular around here) and you can get slotted, drilled or both if you want usually for a bit less cost than the OEM rotors.
For brake pads you want to switch to ceramics if you can, waaaaaaay less dust than the OEM pads and also smoother, quieter and more progressive and again a lot cheaper than OEM in most cases
For the 355 front / 326 rear set up I found Power Stop Evolution Z16 to be great, but Power Stop don't do them for the 380 front / 376 rear set up but EBC do. Get Redstuffs for normal street driving or Yellowstuffs if you track the car.

 

I bout power stop Drilled and slotted rotors from Rockauto for my '13 AWD XF They were coiated (but not the balck anodized hubs I like and have gotten from them before. EBR1042XPR part number. 112 for rear set.

For the V8 126.20030SR 127.20030L

They are also available (slotted) with anodized hubs Cryo-treated if you think you will keep the car any length of time.

I got Akebono ceramic pads ( have always liked them )

Got the wear sensor at Pep Boys for 12 bucks (AC-Delco)

Stopping power is much greatly improved (substantially and noticeably so) over the Jaguar ATE pads and rotors

 

Can someone recommend a set of brake pads with sensors to buy for a 2010 XF? Do I need to replace my sensors?

 

Might be tough for you, but the info you need is 2 posts above yours.

 

It’s that time to replace my rotors and pads on my 5.0 SC. Seems that R1 Concepts come highly recommended. My biggest pet peeve with rotors are ones that become warped in a fairly short period of time. How do the R1 Concepts rotors match up to that? Do they stay “in round” or non-warped for a good deal of time? Some of the aftermarket rotors I’ve bought in the past seemed to become warped a little soon. How do R1 Concepts measure up?

 

This has been explained many times before on these forums but rotors rarely if ever "warp", instead what happens is uneven brake pad material deposition. For years people have called it warped rotors when it's not really that.
It comes down to if and how you bed the pads and rotors in, some say you should hammer them a few times until they get really hot straight after fitting others say you should drive gently/normally for at least 200 miles before using them hard.
I have always followed the "hammer 'em" method and never had a single problem with brake vibration (whatever the cause!), including the Hart drilled and slotted rotors on my F-Type which I originally fitted to my old XFR.
As I have commented before I am 99% sure the R1 Concepts rotors are the exact same Chinese made rotors as sold by many others including Hart and PowerSport, just search eBay Motors under "Jaguar XFR brake rotors" and you will see what I mean. They will not and do not "warp" any more than OEM rotors.

 

Thanks so much for the explanation. Never quite heard it explained like that. Much appreciated.

 

I have a 2010 XF and I've replaced the rear pads with Akebono but they weren't available for the front so I used Powerstop Z16 (16-1240) Evolution Clean Ride ceramic. I'm very happy with front and rear. I did the fronts myself and the original sensor for the front broke (it's very brittle), so I'd suggest you get sensors (front and rear are not the same) before you change the pads. Someone above said you can buy them at Pep Boys. The Jaguar sensors are quite expensive at the dealer.

 

If you have brake pulsing or steering whee vibration, you have to make sure the whole system is in good shape not just the rotors.

The XF’s have issues with the lower control arms going bad quickly and the wheel bearings.

I changed both and put on new rotors and finay got a smooth drive and braking after messing around a lot with new rotors, wheel rotations and wheel balancing.

 

I was looking for brake upgrades for my car all this year, and was looking at finding a less expensive alternative to the Wortec rotors I found THESE. I was going to pull the trigger and ended up buying THIS with EBC Yellowstuff pads.

HERE is the same brand for your car. They seem high quality, They are going on the car later this week.

 

I have EBC red stuff on mine and they have been great. What made you choose the Yellow? I heard they are quite dusty and fast wearing - more suitable for light race / track than daily use. But I've not tried them myself

 

After my major service is done, and PPF is applied and am happy, I do plan on tracking the car. I have high temp fluid 638 degree boiling point and looking for stainless braided lines right now. I want to add brake ducts too as well, because this car is heavy.

 

Got it. That makes sense.

 

Wow once again you insult people in the name of being an expert at everything instead of cordially sharing your knowledge. Perhaps your presence here is part of the pollution you describe?

I understood what he meant, no need for clarification from what I read.

When are you selling your car again? I just might buy it to hurry the process.

 

I pay something like $1500-2000 USD for all 4 brake pads and rotors OEM jaguar including JLR service labour.

A reason to argue to change all 4 pads and rotors at once is to maintain the optimum driving experience.

This is what I believe may be true:
- if you go and change just the single part that is not serviceable for example the front pads only...then eventually your rotor will reach a point of its end of life before your second set of pads are done. Then you are going to be mixing and matching old and new rotors and pads. You are going to notice brake noises which annoy me. You might develop a shimmy as your rotor degrades. And then if you do the cost analysis over the years, you just have paid the same amount over a 3-5 year period except spread out and have experience lower performance.

Now if a rotor can last more than 2 brake pads wearing out without any side effects like noises or brake performance or shimmy then I would say it’s worth keeping ur rotors on and just changing the pads but I don’t think that’s the case. I went after market pads on stock rotors because I was thinking to sell the car. I ended up keeping it but eventually the braking experience was just bad and annoying, especially on cold brakes scqueeeeeech.

Similar argument goes for just changing the front vs the rear when only one is degraded to that point. If all 4 were installed as a set and have been wearing out together then you may notice that the front and rear are about to wear out close together. When my front pads were done, the rear pads wore out within a year. Changing them all at once could have provided me with OEM brand new braking experience since the car would be using the capability of all 4 brand new brakes and rotors to stop the car together, just as it drove as new.

When you reach a point where you do not want to spend extra money and don’t mind risking lower performance or noisy brakes then I believe you should just replace what’s necessary - for example when you are getting ready to trade in or sell the car.

 

Is sounds like you've got it all figured out when it comes to XF brakes, but the part you are missing is that if you buy the right aftermarket ceramic pads and rotors, then you'll have brakes that are way better than the stock brakes (zero dust, no squealing, and 3x longer lasting) and you will have saved a big over OEM.

That just blows everything you said out of the water.