Changing the rear brake pads and rotors with screw in calipers (pics)
#1
Changing the rear brake pads and rotors with screw in calipers (pics)
Here is the how to for changing the rear brake pads and rotors with screw in calipers. Please comment to improve
jaghelp.com: How to change the rear brake pads and rotors on your Jaguar XF
jaghelp.com: How to change the rear brake pads and rotors on your Jaguar XF
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axr6 (07-03-2014)
#2
Thanks for the post. It is very timely since my 2012 XF needs the rear brake pads replaced, but the dealer wants to replace the rotors as well. The car has 24k on it and while I am not afraid to replace the rotors, the dealer wants $1,000 to do the entire job. That is a price that would make me go to a non-Jaguar shop (Goodyear, etc).
Can you tell me if it makes sense to replace the rotors as well? I think my dealer is trying to take advantage price wise.
Can you tell me if it makes sense to replace the rotors as well? I think my dealer is trying to take advantage price wise.
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Of the top of my head the rotors need to be replaced when they reach a certain thickness.
For regular brakes (not high performance)
Front disc, when they are new they are 30 mm and they need to be replaced when they reach 28 mm.
Rear disc, when they are new they are 20 mm and they need to be replaced when they reach 18 mm.
That is the correct way of doing it. Practically I would say 2 sets of pads per rotor, some people may go 3 but I say 2 to be safe. You also have a disclaimer: you may get a vibration, the engineers say change it when they reach the minimum thickness.
For regular brakes (not high performance)
Front disc, when they are new they are 30 mm and they need to be replaced when they reach 28 mm.
Rear disc, when they are new they are 20 mm and they need to be replaced when they reach 18 mm.
That is the correct way of doing it. Practically I would say 2 sets of pads per rotor, some people may go 3 but I say 2 to be safe. You also have a disclaimer: you may get a vibration, the engineers say change it when they reach the minimum thickness.
#6
I'm getting set to do my first brake change on my XF, I have read all of the posts on how to change rear brake pad and would like to know what direction do i turn the the caliper pistons when I'm pushing them back in. Do I turn both sided CLOCKWISE or do you turn them towards the front as I have seen both referenced in different posts.
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It is illegal in many places to reinstall a rotor that is below this dimension.
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Seems it's neither.
The owner's manual says:
"Top up the brake fluid with Shell DOT
ESL brake fluid. If unavailable, use a
low viscosity brake fluid that meets ISO
4925 class 6 specification. Only fluid of
this type and standard may be used."
The recommended Motul fluid does not meet this spec.
The owner's manual says:
"Top up the brake fluid with Shell DOT
ESL brake fluid. If unavailable, use a
low viscosity brake fluid that meets ISO
4925 class 6 specification. Only fluid of
this type and standard may be used."
The recommended Motul fluid does not meet this spec.
#16
I changed the pads/rotors on my '09 XF last fall....just stumbled on this discussion.
I got really tired of the brake dust the OE pads were creating. I could wash the car, drive around the block, and the front wheels would already be covered with dust. So, I decided that ceramic pads would be a better alternative. I ordered new rotors, because when changing pad composition, you should really have a clean surface to work with. The alternative is to have the rotors turned, but not too many shops have the proper equipment/qualified personnel to do that anymore. SO, new rotors (Beck-Arnely replacements) it was.
Since my rear pads were already squealing, after only 24,000 miles, I started with them. The caliper pistons retract in a CLOCKWISE fashion, both sides. The pads were pretty well gone, but the rotors weren't all that bad. I suppose, in retrospect, I could have simply gotten a new set of metallic pads, and simply "pad slapped" it, but as previously mentioned, I was going to ceramic pads.
After pulling the front wheels, I was shocked to see how much pad was left. I then REALLY began to question my decision to switch to the ceramic pads, as the front pads/rotors looked like they could have lasted a LOT longer. However, since I had already done the rears, and the fronts are FAR more easily swapped out, I pressed on, and swapped the pads/rotors.
I also flushed out the brake fluid at this time, but it wasn't the first time that I had done this. I usually do this every spring, when I take the snow tires off. I've been using Valvoline DOT 3/4 fluid in this car since 2011.
I got really tired of the brake dust the OE pads were creating. I could wash the car, drive around the block, and the front wheels would already be covered with dust. So, I decided that ceramic pads would be a better alternative. I ordered new rotors, because when changing pad composition, you should really have a clean surface to work with. The alternative is to have the rotors turned, but not too many shops have the proper equipment/qualified personnel to do that anymore. SO, new rotors (Beck-Arnely replacements) it was.
Since my rear pads were already squealing, after only 24,000 miles, I started with them. The caliper pistons retract in a CLOCKWISE fashion, both sides. The pads were pretty well gone, but the rotors weren't all that bad. I suppose, in retrospect, I could have simply gotten a new set of metallic pads, and simply "pad slapped" it, but as previously mentioned, I was going to ceramic pads.
After pulling the front wheels, I was shocked to see how much pad was left. I then REALLY began to question my decision to switch to the ceramic pads, as the front pads/rotors looked like they could have lasted a LOT longer. However, since I had already done the rears, and the fronts are FAR more easily swapped out, I pressed on, and swapped the pads/rotors.
I also flushed out the brake fluid at this time, but it wasn't the first time that I had done this. I usually do this every spring, when I take the snow tires off. I've been using Valvoline DOT 3/4 fluid in this car since 2011.
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Lach (06-14-2016)
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#20
I wouldn't give it a second thought....If you are having no issues with the type of fluid you've been using, As long as no warranty remains on the cars, then who gives a ****?.. keep doing with what works..