Considering a 2013 XF, new to Jaguar, would love advice
#1
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Hi there, I'm new and considering purchasing this 2013 XF
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=299346607
I've read up on these and really like what I've seen, but I don't want to go and look at the car without knowing what to look for. If there's a specific article, happy to read that. Otherwise would love tips on what to look for, value, etc.
This is the carfax
https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...WJ0EF6D8S83128
Thanks!
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=299346607
I've read up on these and really like what I've seen, but I don't want to go and look at the car without knowing what to look for. If there's a specific article, happy to read that. Otherwise would love tips on what to look for, value, etc.
This is the carfax
https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...WJ0EF6D8S83128
Thanks!
#3
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Looks pretty clean in the photos (although hard to tell without seeing in person). Side of drivers seat bottom is either very worn or catching the sun at an odd angle. Identical exterior / interior color combo to my 2010
Carfax looks clean as best can tell. Not a huge fan of oil changes at 'discount tire' but as long as it was done frequently with the right oil I guess it doesn't matter who does it!
I'd focus on
- thorough check of all electrical stuff. Doors all lock and unlock properly (actuators can fail), windows, sunroof etc working. Trunk opens with button on keyfob, on dash and on trunk itself (cable can get worn out in the hinge). Two keyfobs (expensive to replace) - check both work. Should have a metal emergency key blade in them too. All lights, seat movement, touch screen, camera, parking sensors. Check no tpms errors.
Pressure test cooling system - that's prob the no.1 risk factor on these vehicles. Looks like already had the coolant cross over pipe replaced. Water pumps fail regularly too (I'm on number 3).
Ensure idle is smooth - not too noisy although these direct injection do have a bit of clatter
Beyond that it's the usual stuff - tires and brake pads / rotors.
Good luck! Let us know how you get on
Pricing looks decent but sedans are not en vogue any more so you may have some meaningful negotiation room
Carfax looks clean as best can tell. Not a huge fan of oil changes at 'discount tire' but as long as it was done frequently with the right oil I guess it doesn't matter who does it!
I'd focus on
- thorough check of all electrical stuff. Doors all lock and unlock properly (actuators can fail), windows, sunroof etc working. Trunk opens with button on keyfob, on dash and on trunk itself (cable can get worn out in the hinge). Two keyfobs (expensive to replace) - check both work. Should have a metal emergency key blade in them too. All lights, seat movement, touch screen, camera, parking sensors. Check no tpms errors.
Pressure test cooling system - that's prob the no.1 risk factor on these vehicles. Looks like already had the coolant cross over pipe replaced. Water pumps fail regularly too (I'm on number 3).
Ensure idle is smooth - not too noisy although these direct injection do have a bit of clatter
Beyond that it's the usual stuff - tires and brake pads / rotors.
Good luck! Let us know how you get on
Pricing looks decent but sedans are not en vogue any more so you may have some meaningful negotiation room
The following users liked this post:
tdellaringa (05-10-2021)
#4
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Hi there, I'm new and considering purchasing this 2013 XF
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=299346607
I've read up on these and really like what I've seen, but I don't want to go and look at the car without knowing what to look for. If there's a specific article, happy to read that. Otherwise would love tips on what to look for, value, etc.
This is the carfax
https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...WJ0EF6D8S83128
Thanks!
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=299346607
I've read up on these and really like what I've seen, but I don't want to go and look at the car without knowing what to look for. If there's a specific article, happy to read that. Otherwise would love tips on what to look for, value, etc.
This is the carfax
https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...WJ0EF6D8S83128
Thanks!
When I tried to lock the doors when pressing the drivers door outside button, sometimes the mirror would not fold in and an audible 2 beeps would sound along with the hazards flashing. Did not happen while using any other door button. Found out, it was the actual front passenger door system was faulty and had to be replaced. Advice, check all door buttons handles and remote.
Second thing was that I noticed the eco system(engine turns off when applying pressure on the break when stopped) was not working much and only worked after ap long journey. Discovered that the car has 2 batteries, one for the eco and that one was actually replaced but was faulty and they replaced that(it's.not cheap by the way).
Third thing I have noticed is that the cars maps,screen is way out of date(new roads not shown, GPS telling you to take 2nd exit off a roundabout that does not exist anymore). It will cost you €207 to get an upgrade via a USB stick. Perhaps you might be able to strike a deal with the dealer to update it for less.
I hope this helps you some bit. The car is still a great spec and the sound of the music system, class
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tdellaringa (05-10-2021)
#5
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This is what we have. 2013 Jaguar XF base model. We love it. However, we've also been pretty lucky in that it had some issues early on, but since it was under warranty it was covered. The turbo charge went out, along with our AC and our seat warmers. But again, everything was covered. The one suggestion that was given to us was to make sure we got our timing belt replaced while it was still under warranty. So, basically we took it in for something else and just lied about hearing a ticking sound so they replaced it. I guess these models are known for having timing belt issues later on and it's better to get it fixed while it's under warranty because it's expensive. But again, we've owned it for about 4 years now and love it!
#6
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Just to clarify, the OP is talking about a V6 supercharged model. If you have a base turbo model I assume you have the 4 cylinder turbo? There is no timing belt on the V6. And the chain issues were on the early V8 models (2010 to about 2012 or so). As you say that's a v expensive repair. But doesn't seem to be a systematic issue on the V6 model
As others have said, repairs can be expensive so invest the time to ensure all is working as it should be. If you're not mechanically experienced I'd suggest paying a few hundred dollars for an independent inspection.
As others have said, repairs can be expensive so invest the time to ensure all is working as it should be. If you're not mechanically experienced I'd suggest paying a few hundred dollars for an independent inspection.
#7
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Just to clarify, the OP is talking about a V6 supercharged model. If you have a base turbo model I assume you have the 4 cylinder turbo? There is no timing belt on the V6. And the chain issues were on the early V8 models (2010 to about 2012 or so). As you say that's a v expensive repair. But doesn't seem to be a systematic issue on the V6 model
As others have said, repairs can be expensive so invest the time to ensure all is working as it should be. If you're not mechanically experienced I'd suggest paying a few hundred dollars for an independent inspection.
As others have said, repairs can be expensive so invest the time to ensure all is working as it should be. If you're not mechanically experienced I'd suggest paying a few hundred dollars for an independent inspection.
Man, I miss that guy..he saved us so much money...he did all our brake pads, and oil changes on the side for a fraction of the cost...but, he ended up leaving and joining the police academy.
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#8
#9
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The Carfax says the water pump was changed at 34,198miles, and then at about 43k miles the bypass pipe/hose changed---so there is some history. I think all you can really do is try to ensure there are no current coolant leaks and ensure that the accessory belt drive is running true and quiet. Also look at the coolant header tank---coolant should look clear and pink and the level should be between the max and min level lines(when cold). This tells you that somebody cares (most of the time). You should also check that the radiator fan is working---when you finish your test drive keep the engine running, make sure the AC is switched on and open the hood--you should be able to feel airflow through the radiator and hear the fan run.
When I bought my 2012 six months ago I figured that the cooling system would need to be rehabilitated during my ownership and priced that in. Since I do my own maintenance I just have to assemble the parts---I already have a water pump, thermostat, and the front and rear plastic pipes on my shelf. My car had only about 25K miles on it.
The car you are looking at appears to have spent some time in Michigan--given the state of roads there I would look carefully at the condition of suspension components as there is no Carfax evidence of suspension repairs.
I forgot to add that you should check the oil level in the car before starting it----this is simple --you just switch on the ignition, keeping your foot OFF the brake pedal, then you simply scroll through the message screen, by repeatedly pressing the Trip button on the end of the light stalk until the oil level gauge appears. I now do this every time before I start the car.
When I bought my 2012 six months ago I figured that the cooling system would need to be rehabilitated during my ownership and priced that in. Since I do my own maintenance I just have to assemble the parts---I already have a water pump, thermostat, and the front and rear plastic pipes on my shelf. My car had only about 25K miles on it.
The car you are looking at appears to have spent some time in Michigan--given the state of roads there I would look carefully at the condition of suspension components as there is no Carfax evidence of suspension repairs.
I forgot to add that you should check the oil level in the car before starting it----this is simple --you just switch on the ignition, keeping your foot OFF the brake pedal, then you simply scroll through the message screen, by repeatedly pressing the Trip button on the end of the light stalk until the oil level gauge appears. I now do this every time before I start the car.
Last edited by Six Rotors; 05-11-2021 at 10:38 AM. Reason: Poor memory
The following 2 users liked this post by Six Rotors:
sjhesketh (05-12-2021),
tdellaringa (05-11-2021)
#11
#12
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Hard to watch someone about to spend way too much money on an old V6 sedan, which nobody wants anymore. At least get a V8 and throw some burly exhaust on it, but no AWD with those and for the midwest it's a necessity. Which is why everybody is buying SUVs and now electric cars, so good luck trying to sell this thing for half what you paid after getting tired of the maintenance headaches. That's not the last water pump it will need replaced. There are dozens of other V6 sedans models to choose from, the XF or any Jag for that matter is only worth the hassles for rips with the V8.
#13
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When I bought my 2012 six months ago I figured that the cooling system would need to be rehabilitated during my ownership and priced that in. Since I do my own maintenance I just have to assemble the parts---I already have a water pump, thermostat, and the front and rear plastic pipes on my shelf. My car had only about 25K miles on it.
The car you are looking at appears to have spent some time in Michigan--given the state of roads there I would look carefully at the condition of suspension components as there is no Carfax evidence of suspension repairs.
I forgot to add that you should check the oil level in the car before starting it----this is simple --you just switch on the ignition, keeping your foot OFF the brake pedal, then you simply scroll through the message screen, by repeatedly pressing the Trip button on the end of the light stalk until the oil level gauge appears. I now do this every time before I start the car.
The car you are looking at appears to have spent some time in Michigan--given the state of roads there I would look carefully at the condition of suspension components as there is no Carfax evidence of suspension repairs.
I forgot to add that you should check the oil level in the car before starting it----this is simple --you just switch on the ignition, keeping your foot OFF the brake pedal, then you simply scroll through the message screen, by repeatedly pressing the Trip button on the end of the light stalk until the oil level gauge appears. I now do this every time before I start the car.
#14
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Sorry I have no idea. I decided to go with a GMB water pump. I have used their products on Subarus and found them to be well made and reliable. Their part number is 144-2060. The price of the Jaguar water pump is ludicrous in my humble opinion. I am using Jaguar for the other parts.
Like some others I believe part of the problem is the belt drive system on the 5.0L engine and I have just removed the original belt and checked all the idlers and and pulleys and installed a new belt.
Like some others I believe part of the problem is the belt drive system on the 5.0L engine and I have just removed the original belt and checked all the idlers and and pulleys and installed a new belt.
#15
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I think they're still on #8 for the water pump. Still showing AJ813909. But its not clear that each part number was a true design revision or just a supplier change. In any case, the latest part number appears no better than three or four part numbers ago. Like Six, I gave up on Jaguar pumps and trying an aftermarket this time. Besides being half to a quarter of the OEM price, another nice thing about going aftermarket for us DIY'ers is that depending where you buy it, you can get a few years to a "lifetime" warranty and just keep taking the darn thing back and exchanging it year after year.
Not sure if I'd be quite as hard on the v6 as littered above, but I personally decided to seek out a 2012 XF specifically being the last year of the 5.0 NA 385hp and the first year of the "facelift". I figured by time to replace it, there would be too few choices left in V8 sedans and it might be my last one. If you test drive the v6 and v8 back to back, you'll want the v8. Hint - make sure you put push the little checkered flag button on the console.![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Only thing I don't like about it is the headlights. Driving at night on low beams, the headlights are very bright but the facelift style seems to make a hard shadow line on the pavement about 150 feet in front of the car, beyond which is pitch black. I didn't like the aesthetics of the earlier XF headlights (I hate the "bug-eyed" headlights with about an acre of plastic pointing more up than forward on most modern sedans). If you think that might bother you, maybe try to take a test drive at night before buying. I suspect the earlier headlights might illuminate the road better.
Not sure if I'd be quite as hard on the v6 as littered above, but I personally decided to seek out a 2012 XF specifically being the last year of the 5.0 NA 385hp and the first year of the "facelift". I figured by time to replace it, there would be too few choices left in V8 sedans and it might be my last one. If you test drive the v6 and v8 back to back, you'll want the v8. Hint - make sure you put push the little checkered flag button on the console.
![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Only thing I don't like about it is the headlights. Driving at night on low beams, the headlights are very bright but the facelift style seems to make a hard shadow line on the pavement about 150 feet in front of the car, beyond which is pitch black. I didn't like the aesthetics of the earlier XF headlights (I hate the "bug-eyed" headlights with about an acre of plastic pointing more up than forward on most modern sedans). If you think that might bother you, maybe try to take a test drive at night before buying. I suspect the earlier headlights might illuminate the road better.
#16
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@pdupler My lights were very short throw and cut out on the pavement way before I wanted them too but I adjusted them upwards and now they are fine. I don't think there were any limits on the adjustment, I could put them up higher even to where it shines right at oncoming cars.
@litteredwithfaults does have a point in that I love my 5.0L supercharged, but not sure I would pay the premium for a "regular" engine model. I love my XF but 90% of that love is because I have the high performance model.
That price does seem a little high maybe. I paid a little more than 10k more for my 5.0SC 3 years ago. I've owned my car for 22k miles and I have yet to have to do anything besides change the oil. I need to change my tranny fluid though, it does NOT seem fun.
@litteredwithfaults does have a point in that I love my 5.0L supercharged, but not sure I would pay the premium for a "regular" engine model. I love my XF but 90% of that love is because I have the high performance model.
That price does seem a little high maybe. I paid a little more than 10k more for my 5.0SC 3 years ago. I've owned my car for 22k miles and I have yet to have to do anything besides change the oil. I need to change my tranny fluid though, it does NOT seem fun.
#17
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi there, I'm new and considering purchasing this 2013 XF
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=299346607
I've read up on these and really like what I've seen, but I don't want to go and look at the car without knowing what to look for. If there's a specific article, happy to read that. Otherwise would love tips on what to look for, value, etc.
This is the carfax
https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...WJ0EF6D8S83128
Thanks!
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=299346607
I've read up on these and really like what I've seen, but I don't want to go and look at the car without knowing what to look for. If there's a specific article, happy to read that. Otherwise would love tips on what to look for, value, etc.
This is the carfax
https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...WJ0EF6D8S83128
Thanks!
love the car! 165k km no issues. Imo biggest thing to make sure of are oil changes performed after 10k km or less. Take it for a drive as they ride beautifully
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