Hey guys,

I replaced my thermostat and expansion tank today. I've had a leak from the thermostat, so expect this will fix one of my problems. However, I also identified a leak back behind the engine which has been going for a while. I've noticed a little coolant coming down the transmission, but it's really slow and never seemed to get worse. I finally found the source. I believe it's on the heater manifold (more seamed plastic...woo) but I can't tell for sure. Can someone look at this picture and help identify? The leak can be seen right below the blue hose clip - you'll see orange that's on a seam. This picture is taken from leaning in from the passenger wheel.

Assuming it is that piece, is there any chance of changing it without removing the supercharger? I've got everything drained down right now from the thermostat so wondering if I could go after it now. I haven't removed the wiper cowl yet so am curious if that may give enough room, or if others have tried it and there's just no chance.

A few years ago I had a bad leak and had the plastic tube under the supercharger replaced. I'd asked them at that time to replace anything else we should while it's off, but I don't think they touched this part. They also routed a few things wrong when putting it back together, so I'm not super confident they were all that thorough.

If the supercharger has to come off I'm not sure what I'll do. I think that's at the edge of my skillset to try to get off on my own, but I'm also not thrilled about paying a shop a bunch for it.

This is the part I think it is: https://parts.harperjaguar.com/oem-p...MtMGwtdjYtZ2Fz


Thanks,
Austin
2014 Jaguar XF 3.0 SC AWD

 

Most likely it's the heater manifold, also known as the crossover pipe weeping coolant.Discovered it on mine at 42K miles a few months ago and the dealer in Sacramento did it under CPO warranty.At the time the tech told me they remove both of the cowlings in front of the windshield and have a method for doing it without pulling the SC.
Even so, I asked them to pull the SC at my expense and replace all the rest of the plastic bits that would inevitably start to fail like dominoes. So......The dealership says it can be done without pulling the blower...I have looked around in there and having smallish hands can see where it might be do-able, but the prevailing wisdom here on the forum is just pull it and do it all, which I think is good advice.

 

Thanks for the info. My hose under the supercharger has already been replaced, so that part should be good. I'm still thinking about pulling it to change oil in the supercharger, but it'd sure be tempting without.

Another question for those who have pulled their superchargers - My cooling system is drained fully, but I have pressure in the fuel rail I presume since I didn't run it with the fuel pump fuse pulled beforehand. I don't really want to fill the system just to run it a bit and relieve fuel pressure. I also don't think I should run it dry Is there another way? If I crack open the spot I need to remove the line with a rag on it will that work? I've never worked on direct injected fuel systems before so not sure how heavy it'd spray out.

Thanks,
Austin

 

I had this same fear before I pulled mine, but honestly it's not as bad as the workshop manual makes out. I imagined loosening fuel pipe unions with a bang and high pressure gasoline sprayed everywhere but it wasn't like that at all. You can just loosen any of the high pressure fuel pipe union with a crows foot or wrench and a rag to catch the gas which leaks rather than sprays everywhere.

 

Awesome, thanks! Then for parts, I need:

• Rear heater manifold - AJ814053
• Gasket(s) for the rear heater manifold? Do I need 1 or 2? There's just 1 pictured so not sure...seems like the other side maybe would also have one (AJ811600)
• Gaskets for the supercharger to intake valves (2 of C2Z17249)
• Kit for isolator + oil change (thinking this one)
• Do I need a throttle body gasket? Seems like not

Anything I'm missing?

 

Edit - just re-read your post - the rear manifold includes 2x new gaskets, you don't need to purchase them separately.

The solid isolator coupling is a good idea - the one I got a while ago needed the holes filing to be a comfortable fit.

 

I definitely plan to replace it all. That's the AJ814053 part right? Or is it a different part? If the AJ814053 part comes with the gaskets, then I wouldn't need to get those separate.

Thanks!
Austin

 

I just had the same issue and I had to take it to the shop because the supercharger has to be removed in order to get to the leak. It was $2300 job to have it remove, hose replaced and put back together. The leak also made both of my coolant pumps go bad. I purchased the pumps on my own had to those fixed by my my mobile mechanic in my driveway and save another $1000 that the shop wanted to charge me. Drives like a charm. But yesterday we had a chilly day and I noticed that my heat was not working on the drivers side panels. Guessing that my DCCV went bad due to the coolant leak too. Did not affect the AC, thank God. Gonna look into the heat situation this weekend.

 

Sorry to hear, that's super frustrating. Out of curiosity how many hours did it take the shop?

I've got my supercharger hopefully ready to pull. I need to rig something up tomorrow since it's stuck on the pins, but everything I think is set up. It's a long job, and I hopefully have good enough notes to get it all back together. The shop that did it previously did a poor job too - I've found broken clips, a cross threaded bolt, coolant tubes not put back in clips, etc.

I plan to change oil in the supercharger, replace the isolator, and clean the intake valves while it's out.

For anyone who has done the intake valves before, how did you get them closed? Did you rotate the crank with the spark plugs still in, and if so which way should it go? I'm not really looking to pull anything else off on this job, so I'd rather not also pull the plugs. I've got enough to keep track of lol.

Thanks,
Austin

 

I had the same when I first pulled the supercharger.

In the end, I had to get two long square metal bars from home depot, and drill holes in them so I could screw threaded rod into the threaded holes on top of the supercharger, bolt the bars to the rods, and then get a gym buddy to help me "rock" the supercharger off the engine.

 

My car was on the shop for two weeks. I don’t no exactly how much if tune was spend on fixing my vehicle. They claimed most of the tome was waiting for the parts to come in and they seemed to call me every other day trying to sell me on more work that they claimed needed to be done.

 

It was stuck good, but I got it off easily with an engine holder/puller from Harbor Freight. I'd definitely recommend spending the 70 bucks on that - it makes a hard thing so much nicer. I saw someone else here do it as well - they had put the chain directly on the bolts. That scared me since it would have some horizontal pull on the bolts as well, so I drilled holes in a few 2x4 chunks and rigged this up with some 8x1.25 bolts from lowes.


Now that it's off, a few questions:

• Which way do I need to rotate the crank shaft to match the way the engine would go? I'm pretty confident it's clockwise from the front of the engine
• Seems my radiator drain plug is seeping a bit. Anyone replaced the o ring on that before? Otherwise any other recommendations?
• Anyone know the torque of the heater manifold to the back of the engine? There's 6 torx bolts, and they're not very tight at all. I expected not too tight, but this is even less than I figured

Thanks,
Austin



pulling the supercharger​​​​​​​

 

Clockwise as you look at the front of the engine, yes.

No, I replaced the whole drain plug, as the "cross" shaped head can easily deform and pulling the radiator out to extract it if it breaks is a pain. However, I did find that the drain plug listed for the XF on parts sites did not fit my radiator. Might want to order from a dealer with a VIN to be sure.

I couldn't find the torque for them in the service manual. "Tight enough" was probably the torque I used. Just don't overtighten them as I have a feeling they're fine thread bolts going into aluminum, so easy to strip. Plus they have rubber o-rings rather than metal crush gaskets like the water pump at the front, so probably a bit more forgiving on the torque anyway.

 

I had lots of trouble tracking down the correct drain plug. Every time I ordered one using my VIN I got one that was too big but eventually the guys at JLR Columbia tracked down the correct one for me. The larger one is p/n C2C1467 but the smaller one I needed is p/n JLM20622. Apparently the radiator has been through multiple revisions and the corresponding drain plug hasn't quite kept up. I'd definitely recommend the Columbia parts guys if you need anything. Great prices and they even managed to track down the clips under the supercharger that supports the small rubber pipe that runs from the rear heater manifold (the part you are changing) to the throttle body, even though it's not available from Jaguar but is from Land Rover. They also went above and beyond to try and source the oil anti drain valve under the oil cooler when mine failed.

 

I had the same problem. It ended up being that JLM20622 is also a Ford P/N f5rz8115a. None of my Ford dealers had it in stock so I just ended up ordering it from JLR.

 

Things are coming along. I got the snout off the supercharger today, and the isolator is shot and has damaged the round part at the center that the spring rubs on. Fortunately their new solid isolator doesn't touch that part, so it doesn't really matter.

Question - I'm getting ready to do the supercharger oil change. Is my drain plug the allen plug on top in this picture? The pictures I've seen had it centered in the back, but mine doesn't seem to be the same. This is the 3.0, and I think most of the writeups are on the 5.0. Also, anyone know the oil capacity? I'm guessing 5.1oz based on the 5.0 being that capacity, but I'm not sure.


Drain plug on top (just above black panel) and offset a bit to the left?

 

Remove it and see if the oil comes out?

 

I did finish this job, and no coolant leaks! The drain plug was that one on top of the supercharger. It's a different supercharger than the 5.0, so that's why. This one would be a lot easier to do in the car if you ever needed. I looked up capacity based on the audi with the same unit and went off of that. My shaft in the snout was definitely chewed up from the old isolator as well. The new one doesn't rest on the shaft, so it seems to be ok.

Overall it was a long job, but not terrible. Everything went back together well and I'm up and running, finally without any coolant leaks! You might be able to do that rear heater manifold without taking the supercharger off, but it would be awful especially on the 3.0 which has the bolt underneath on each side. I looked at it for a bit and didn't want to try it that way. It's tricky enough even with the supercharger pulled.

Thanks for all the great help from everyone! If there are any questions just let me know.

Thanks!
Austin

 

Good job Austin !

 

Could you please tell me the oil capacity of the 3.0 supercharger? I have a 2013 XF with the 3.0.

Thanks,
Mike