My plan is to tackle this project next weekend. I have a new water pump, front and rear crossover pipes, and I'm doing the aluminum upgrade. I did a few small projects on my old car, so not really afraid to get my hands dirty, but this is definitely the biggest project I've ever done on a car. I'm doing it because no shop nearby would help since I wanted to do the aluminum pipe upgrade. I've been watching youtube videos and reading various posts here for a couple weeks because it's a big undertaking and I don't want to screw it up. I do have a couple questions and keep in mind this is a 2015 V6 SC.

1. To drain the coolant do I only need to pull the plug on the radiator? I think I read about a 2nd plug somewhere else(not the bleed) that needed to be pulled too. Another comment I read said just pull the lower radiator hose to drain quickly, though this is a bit messy.
2. Is there anything else that needs drained or done prep wise before I start pulling everything apart?
3. The supercharger sounds like a beast to get loose because the pins underneath get stuck. I saw the recent sledgehammer removal someone did, any other tips here?

 

I've pulled the supercharger twice on my 2013 V6 SC.

You only have to drain the radiator.
Use caution when installing the waterpump not to strip/overtorque the tiny 6mm holes. The torque spec is only 8-9 ft lbs. Use only a 1/4 inch ratchet. Make sure to lubricate the oring that interfaces behind the waterpump very well with silicone or coolant (dexcool) and I highly recommend replacing both orings and that plastic tube behind the waterpump. The torque spec on the bolt for the tensioner you have to remove is 34 ft lbs.

If the supercharger is stuck and you are unable to just rock it off (the long stem that runs to the pulley is a great place to pull and rock it) you can go to the hardware store, purchase M8 metric bolts and nuts and attach it to a metal bar to use has a handle to rock it off.
Use caution when removing the supercharger as the steel dowels often come up with the supercharger and they could damage the intake ports sealing surfaces if you bump/hit them.

Make sure you tape up the holes for the high pressure fuel line you will have to remove so debris don't fall in. 16 ft lbs and you are suppose to use clean engine oil on the threads. A crowsfoot wrench is mandatory, I think it is 17mm.

When removing the supercharger, you can remove the throttle body OR remove the coolant hose where it connects to the rear heater crossover.

Finally, you are going to need four M8 threaded pins to align the gaskets when you put the supercharger back on the car. All the big M8 bolts that bolt the supercharger to the block and the charge air cooler to the supercharger are 18 ft lbs.

Good luck, its a bear of a job. If you don't have confidence, you are better off having a shop just install the improved front plastic crossovers without the joints that break.

 

Thanks very much for these tips, I have a couple more questions.

1. Do the gaskets for the supercharger need to be replaced or can they be reused? The video I watched on this part said nothing about it. They just cleaned up the supercharger and put it back on.
2. 3/8 drive for the tensioner right?
3. The plastic tube behind the water pump, are you talking about the short connector that's like 4 inches?

I've got multiple days I'm setting aside for this project because I already expect it to be a bear, but I know I'll feel better once it is done.

 

I just got my 2013 XF 3.0L SC system back together today. I assume it should be quite similar to the 2015 model. What I replaced:

• The water pump.
• The little plastic connector that goes into the front of the water pump with a brass version.
• The plastic outlet tube that connects the water pump to the oil cooler with an aluminum version.
• The upper and lower plastic cooling pipes with aluminum aftermarket ones.
• The rubber hose that runs under the supercharger to the rear crossover pipe.
• The plastic rear crossover pipe.
• The hose that connects that rear crossover pipe to the aluminum pipe with the bleeder screw.
• All gaskets for parts removed - throttle body, supercharger-to-cylinder head, intake manifold.
• The supercharger oil.

I only removed the radiator drain plug.
For removing the supercharger, I followed advice I found in a forum thread. I used a super pry bar / wonderbar on the middle of the left and right sides of the supercharger to apply pressure and slowly get the supercharger alignment pins released. I just went back and forth from one side to the other and patiently worked it free. Once it was free, I lifted the supercharger up and off by attaching 90 degree brackets on all 4 corners, some climbing rope tied into loops on each bracket, and threaded the rope loops through a pair of 8 foot 2x3s.

I took detailed notes on what I did for disassembly and assembly. I can make those notes available along with the parts I ordered in the next few days. I did purchase the Alldata DIY subscription for 30 days so I could know the proper torque figures during reassembly. I recorded the torque figures in my notes.

Mike

 

You should replace the gaskets that go in-between the supercharger and block, they cost nothing and I wouldn't want to redo the entire job if they leak.

There is another gasket for the supercharger to charge air cooler, its about $50 bucks genuine and about half that from the OE supplier. That one you might be able to reuse but I still would replace.

Yes its a short plastic pipe with a nipple that has an oring that interfaces with the waterpump, then there is another oring (I think the exact same one) that goes on the oil cooler and into said plastic tube.

The tensioners are 3/8 drive, and you will probably need a PVC pipe to use as a cheater bar. There are two tensioners one for the supercharger belt, and the other for the main system drive. You turn them different directions to remove the belt. Only the driver side one has to be removed to access the waterpump.

 

I have the Lisle 59000 serpentine tool - https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...tine-belt-tool. It works well in tight spots, like in the Jaguar XF. $58 at Amazon or Home Depot.
The Jaguar TSB for replacing the cooling pipes lists out the gaskets needed: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...42170-9999.pdf

There is an aluminum version of the water outlet pipe that is behind the water pump - URO Parts LR028136PRM. It comes with one O-ring. You need to buy another o-ring for the oil cooler end - part # AJ811539.

Mike

 

Thanks. I ordered the aluminum upgrade already but it's the little things I don't really know like the o-rings. I appreciate the info. Feel like I've ordered so many things at this point.

 

I thought in the video I watched they did a tensioner on passenger side to remove the belt that goes over supercharger.

 

Correct, you have to remove the belt off the tensioner on the passenger side for the supercharger, but you have to remove the actual tensioner itself on the driver side to get to the waterpump.

 

Any little clips or clamps that are prone to break? My biggest worry is going into the weekend to do this and having one snap and not being able to get it replaced during the project.

 

The little plastic connector on the front of the water pump. But I found a brass replacement on EBay.
The two clips under the supercharger attaching the rubber hose from the throttle body to the rear crossover pipe. But I didn't use those clips during reassembly.
I spent a bunch of time trying to figure out how to get connectors to come apart. It seems like every hose or electrical connector is a unique design and how it comes apart is unique. But I think in the end, the key to removing the connectors is to always squeeze something, then pull, in order to get it loose. Don't pry them apart.

Mike

 

Two hoses, the one that runs to the little brass connector on the waterpump, if you don't break it go buy a lottery ticket, and the hose from the reservoir to the upper crossover pipe/throttle body (C2Z14540).

You can order the clips under the SC from Land Rover, I've posted the P/N in my post history.

 

Jaguar made a spot to pry on when removing the SC snout if you are going to replace that too?? They are a known problem and I would replace it as well as plan to change the SC oil.
It's a bit hard to see. I don't think it's visible until the SC is off the car either.


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Does anyone have a good picture of where the rear crossover pipe is located? Does the supercharger need to be pulled in the V6 to access it?

 

Yes, I tried to get it out but I couldn't.

 

What I did in regards to process, parts, and some photos.

wp.mhartman.net/home/cars/jaguar/2013-jaguar-xf/cooling-system-repair

Mike

 

Thank you, very helpful.

 

We have had several very talented guys post that they DID change that rear manifold out with the SC in place on the V-6 engine. For me it's just too tight and the SC needs to come off. Now the rear manifold does not seem to fail as often as the front cooling pipes do but it's not too expensive and it's plastic so it WILL fail!

Also consider if you like the Symposer stuff or not because with the SC off it's very simple to remove and block the passages off. I am not a fan and think it makes the car sound weird inside. I noticed the noised changed a good bit after I did a tune and pulley upgrade.
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I have read that, but it was on the XJ platform not XF. I was able to get the 6 torx bolts out, 2 coolant hoses, and release the 3 cable harnesses and connector attached to the rear manifold, but was unable to get it cleared and out of the car, it kept rubbing on the firewall/hitting the wiring harness.

One thing I didn’t try was removing the coolant temp sensor, that might give you the clearance.

 

Unless you have a link to people talking about removing it with the SC on I'm not going to waste my time. I had a similar situation with a previous car that I wasted a couple hours trying to avoid removing other things first which would have been a lot faster in the end.

I've read a couple times about people blocking off the symposer but I have no idea what it even is?