Thanks for note
yes I can obviously see the need for a torque multiplier. I am not surprised it's in the service manual

As I was alluding to I have removed crank bolts on much larger engines that don't require such methods or effort.
I was just surprised it's so snug for a 4.0 litre gas engine.

 

I used a 40" breaker bar with a 3/4" drive and I still second guessed the reverse thread when removing the bolt, as it took some decent effort to get it started. It wasn't like I had to jump on the bar or anything (because it's 40"), but I'm definitely glad I had that particular tool in my arsenal and the clearance to use it.



Above Pic: 40" x 3/4" Drive Breaker Bar Going Clockwise


Above Pic: Crank Cover Removed and Locked Cams for Zip-Tie Method of Tensioner & Guide Replacement

Yes, I know it's not at TDC (Top Dead Center), but it doesn't need to be for the zip-tie method.

 

Also, I get replacing the TTY (Torque-to-Yield) Crank Bolt (AJ811490) which is about $25+ (with tax/shipping), as mine measured 115mm after removal, and I think it's supposed to be (M8 x 1.25 x) either 110mm or 118mm (I can't remember where I got those numbers, but it's potentially from the equivalent Rover bolt), so mine might be stretched. I don't usually replace TTY bolts on suspension, if I've only removed and reinstalled them once, but on an engine, it's too much of a chance to take in my mind.

However, what's the point of paying $27+ (with tax/shipping) for this flimsy little Lock Washer (AJ811438)??? Seriously, someone please chime in here before I order one.

 

You will find there is more than one. One behind the sprocket also. I've rebuilt 4 engines and never changed one yet. Are the new tensioners and guides fitted? Did you need to remove the injectors? Did you need to remove all the intake stuff?

 

Thanks. Yeah, I knew there was another one behind the sprocket, but I'm not removing the sprocket, so didn't worry too much about it. I already ordered a new bolt, so it's probably a moot point now, but out of curiosity, do you replace the bolts?

 

I replaced the bolts on 2 engines I rebuilt but not the second two. I had no way of measuring the high torque specified so I just did them up as tight as I could. No problem so far, I don't know why the specified torque is so damn high.

 

I just realized that I never answered your questions... Yes, I installed the new tensioners, guides, and blades by using a variation of the zip-tie method (basically just more zip-ties to lock EVERYTHING in place). I did not need to remove the injectors or valve covers. I removed all of the coolant hoses, air intake, etc., but not sure how much of it would need to be removed just to do the tensioners, guides, and blades. I'd already removed it all to replace the failure-prone cooling parts, so I just did the timing chain stuff while I had everything else apart. Obviously, though, the more you remove, the better the access and the easier the job. One of the plastic blades was a real pain in the a$$, but they're kind of flexible, which really helped, so ultimately not anything I had to spend more than a few minutes on. I think I took both sets out at the same time, as I think I remember that one side would've interfered with the removal of the other. I also marked the chain positions on the VVTs and various other places in the engine, and tied everything in place like crazy, so the VVTs didn't move and the chains didn't skip teeth. When finished and the tensioners grenade pins were pulled, both chains felt extremely tight. Like most things, the prep work made it simple - mostly just making sure nothing moves which isn't supposed to.

Anyway, judging by the condition of the receiving buttons on the guides, and even though I never noticed any timing chain slap/clatter, it was well due (at only 52K miles with OCD-level frequent oil changes with pure synthetic, etc.).


Above pic: Cable ties everywhere


Above pic: New vs. Old

 

Nice job ! Nice to know it's possible.