Crankshaft pulley removal
#21
yes I can obviously see the need for a torque multiplier. I am not surprised it's in the service manual
As I was alluding to I have removed crank bolts on much larger engines that don't require such methods or effort.
I was just surprised it's so snug for a 4.0 litre gas engine.
#22
I used a 40" breaker bar with a 3/4" drive and I still second guessed the reverse thread when removing the bolt, as it took some decent effort to get it started. It wasn't like I had to jump on the bar or anything (because it's 40"), but I'm definitely glad I had that particular tool in my arsenal and the clearance to use it.
Above Pic: 40" x 3/4" Drive Breaker Bar Going Clockwise
Above Pic: Crank Cover Removed and Locked Cams for Zip-Tie Method of Tensioner & Guide Replacement
Yes, I know it's not at TDC (Top Dead Center), but it doesn't need to be for the zip-tie method.
Above Pic: 40" x 3/4" Drive Breaker Bar Going Clockwise
Above Pic: Crank Cover Removed and Locked Cams for Zip-Tie Method of Tensioner & Guide Replacement
Yes, I know it's not at TDC (Top Dead Center), but it doesn't need to be for the zip-tie method.
Last edited by Reaxions; 07-12-2022 at 04:09 PM.
#23
Also, I get replacing the TTY (Torque-to-Yield) Crank Bolt (AJ811490) which is about $25+ (with tax/shipping), as mine measured 115mm after removal, and I think it's supposed to be (M8 x 1.25 x) either 110mm or 118mm (I can't remember where I got those numbers, but it's potentially from the equivalent Rover bolt), so mine might be stretched. I don't usually replace TTY bolts on suspension, if I've only removed and reinstalled them once, but on an engine, it's too much of a chance to take in my mind.
However, what's the point of paying $27+ (with tax/shipping) for this flimsy little Lock Washer (AJ811438)??? Seriously, someone please chime in here before I order one.
However, what's the point of paying $27+ (with tax/shipping) for this flimsy little Lock Washer (AJ811438)??? Seriously, someone please chime in here before I order one.
Last edited by Reaxions; 07-12-2022 at 04:11 PM.
#24
You will find there is more than one. One behind the sprocket also. I've rebuilt 4 engines and never changed one yet. Are the new tensioners and guides fitted? Did you need to remove the injectors? Did you need to remove all the intake stuff?
Last edited by kansanbrit; 07-16-2022 at 12:42 PM.
#25
Thanks. Yeah, I knew there was another one behind the sprocket, but I'm not removing the sprocket, so didn't worry too much about it. I already ordered a new bolt, so it's probably a moot point now, but out of curiosity, do you replace the bolts?
Last edited by Reaxions; 07-16-2022 at 02:15 PM.
#26
I replaced the bolts on 2 engines I rebuilt but not the second two. I had no way of measuring the high torque specified so I just did them up as tight as I could. No problem so far, I don't know why the specified torque is so damn high.
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Reaxions (07-18-2022)
#27
Anyway, judging by the condition of the receiving buttons on the guides, and even though I never noticed any timing chain slap/clatter, it was well due (at only 52K miles with OCD-level frequent oil changes with pure synthetic, etc.).
Above pic: Cable ties everywhere
Above pic: New vs. Old
Last edited by Reaxions; 10-04-2022 at 12:35 PM.
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trkyam (02-16-2023)
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