I just ran my car today, first time since Wednesday at night, and the centre dome light wont turn off while the vehicle is turned on. I double checked all the doors and none were open (there was no notification saying any of them were open). Along with the centre dome light the footwell lights as well as the illuminated tread plates stay on. This was this afternoon so not that big of deal but could imagine this will be extremely annoying in the evening if it continues. Any suggestions because I cannot think of anything to get it to go out.

I have checked the doors and tried to hold the light itself. Also tried to turn all the lights off with the switch by the steering wheel and tried to turn the brightness down which is located under the steering wheel.

Anyone? Should I pull the fuse? Anyone know which one?

 

Aron,
Do they stay on when the car is off?

I don't think this will help, but it's worth a try.

Front interior courtesy lamp. Illuminates
when the doors are unlocked and
extinguish 20 seconds after all doors are
closed or when the vehicle is locked. The
lamps are operated by proximity sensors.
Move your finger close to (or touch) the
appropriate lens to switch on or off
manually. Touch the lens for 2 seconds to
deactivate/activate automatic illumination.

 

No they fade out after I shut the car off as they are supposed to and are to fade out after getting in the car and starting it. However once getting in and starting the car they stay on. It seems like it dims but doesn't fade completely out. Touching and/or touching and holding does not turn the light on or off. It does not seem to be responding to anything other than shutting the vehicle off completely.

 

I seem to remember that this was an issue that was corrected by replacing the complete overhead console. Don't remember which years were listed. I think that is where the electronics for the interior lights are located. Try a search here.

Update:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-lights-55964/

 

Yea I have searched the forum before but most talks about it coming on with a bump. Mine just doesn't seem to go out. No matter what I try it wont shut off. I will most likely have to take it into the dealership again (twice in the past 2 weeks and the dealer is 250 km's away...crappy)

 

Have you checked for blown fuses in central fuel box located pass side kick panel. I had a 04 XJ that the dome lights would not go off while driving and they were also dim and it ended up being blown fuse caused by short in headliner. If you have a DVOM then you can check fuses very fast.Try to look for any other symtoms and post reply. Have a great day and God bless.

 

Fuse for dome lights and other things is F35 15amp mini in central fuse box. Does the glove box button work?

 

Glove box still works. It appears that the only functionality lost is that center (of the 3) touch sensitive light in the front. Because that light comes on ALL the lights in the car also are staying on. Like I said I do notice it dim and brighten twice when I hold the light but can't get it to go out. I will defeinitely check the fuses tonight though however like I said it seems as though it is only the 1 functionality lost which probably isn't a single fuse would it be? Where are they located, sorry didn't follow the post? Thanks for the reply. On another note I just emailed the dealer and see if they can tell me anything.

 

Sounds like the defective overhead console mentioned by a number of posters. UK owners particularly have suffered from this defect.

 

i had a similar issue where the map/dome lights would turn on and off by themselves all the time. at one point they would flash like a disco

whole thing had to get replaced.

 

Yea figured it going to have to go see the dealer again. I contacted them and they asked me to do a "hard reset".

Disconnect Negative for 5 minutes
Hold negative conection ontop of positive post for 30 seconds.
Reconnect negative post.

Should reset everything. They said it might be a hiccup. I will try this tonight and see how it goes.

 

Keep us posted Aaron.
Hopefully the reset does it!

 

Tried last night an it was a little cold out and didn't have a garage to put it in. Got the negative off and then there were two stupid wires that were holding it back from touching the positive post. Couldnt get it so I might try again tonight or Thursday when a friend is free.

On another not I emailed my dealer about a "clicking noise" that I was hearing when I depress the brake sort of coming from the gear selector. This was his response:

"There will be a clicking noise because there is a shift interlock cable from the pedal to the gearshift that releases the gearshift when the pedal is depressed some are more noticeable then others and with the new gearshift that could be the way it is. "

Anyone believe that to be true? They just swapped out the gear selector about a week ago and now I have to live with this? Seems like it should either break in or else something else is the issue? Comments?

 

Just use one side of a booster cable to get the positive post to touch the negative cable while that negtive cable is completely disconnected of course. I fail to see how doing so could possibly have any effect, anyway, sounds like witchcraft to me. Just disconnecting and reconnecting the ground should reset everything that could be reset by disconnecting the power.

Unless this unit has already been replaced, and your dealer will know fom the warranty service records, I am sure you need a new one.

My brake pedal sometimes makes an odd click just after moving off. It always has, very intermittently. I know the brake pedal and shifter have an interlock, I didn't know it was mechanical. But, all modern card require that ou depress the foot brake to move the shifter out of park, or into reverse or even into drive after a few second delay (this so we Canucks can still rock the car between reverse and drive if we get it stuck).

 

There are some capacitors that store power for short time memory. Touching the disconnected negative cable to the positive terminal will discharge those capacitors. A hard reboot if you will.

 

Wow that is a great idea...I feel like an idiot for not thinking about just putting something between the two connections that would conduct. I will definitely try that.

As far as the clicking goes it happens ALL the time when I depress the brake pedal. If I am in gear or not. Driving down the road and pull up to a light I can hear a distinct click. Somewhat annoying. I didn't notice this (**as much - was still there) before they put in the new gear selector. Hopefully it will go away.

I will try the booster cables for sure though! Thanks for the tip!

 

XF needs new shifter assembly if it clicks every time you depress brake pedal.

 

Just be sure that there are no minor grounding straps still attached to the negative terminal if you do use a jumper!!!

 

Hold on a minute. Isn't that negative cable end grounded everywhere?

All the grounds on the car have to connect to that cable somehow. As long as the battery post is not grounded no circuit should be possible.

Point taken that the negative battery post MUST be naked to avoid fireworks. There must be no connection at all from the negative post on the battery to the car body, anywhere BEFORE you try to touch the positive battery post with that negative cable. Personally I'd take off the positive cable as well and just touch those two cable ends together while both terminals are totally disconnected from the battery. I'd be asking the dealer why not pull the positive cable off the battery and touch that to the negative post. Much safer I should have thought.

Those "two stupid wires" preventing you from reaching the positive terminal with the negative cable MUST NOT also be attached to that negative terminal on the battery.

 

There is nothing on the negative post on the battery. The negative terminal on the battery will be completely naked. All I will do is attempt to use jumbers between the main negative cord and the positive terminal. This should send a circuit between the positive termanal and end up back at the positive post.

Should be fine right? All the negative wires coming into the negative terminal are not grounded anywhere else on the vehicle they would all flow through that negative post would they not? I will give it a shot because it is word for word what the dealer told me to do (no other steps around any other cables) and if something happens they can tow it and fix it at their expense.

I will just have a buddy play with the jumper cables HAHA.