XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

Double check me on diagnosis?

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  #1  
Old 02-06-2020, 04:50 PM
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Default Double check me on diagnosis?

I have a '13 xf 2.0t I was using for a dd until it started throwing all the faults. Per these forums I replaced the battery etc. The faults have all been intermittent without really a rhyme or reason. The car will come back to life if I let it idle all the gauges will come back, and if I clear codes via iCarsoft LR2 it will run normally....until the faults come in again. Sometimes it will be just for a flash, sometimes they will stay.

The one constant error across almost all modules has been communication with the ABS module and/or high speed canbus.
My questions:

Does this mean an ABS sensor has gone bad or the module? How do I tell which it is?
Is this something I can do myself if I would consider myself fairly handy/mechanically inclined?

 
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Old 02-06-2020, 05:09 PM
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What are the specific codes you're seeing? Also what is the specific battery voltage resting?
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
What are the specific codes you're seeing? Also what is the specific battery voltage resting?
ABS related codes?
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 05:51 PM
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All codes. You need to start with the basics. Resting battery voltage should be 12.6 volts. If it's less, you need a new fully charged battery. A lot of guys say battery is new or battery is ok. They never respond to that specific question. It doesn't matter if it's you r daily driver or a garage queen. always start with checking the power source. 12.6 volts minimum.
Then assuming power supply is sufficient, I would look at the codes. All of them. So please list the codes in the order you get them when they come up.

My two cents.
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
All codes. You need to start with the basics. Resting battery voltage should be 12.6 volts. If it's less, you need a new fully charged battery. A lot of guys say battery is new or battery is ok. They never respond to that specific question. It doesn't matter if it's you r daily driver or a garage queen. always start with checking the power source. 12.6 volts minimum.
Then assuming power supply is sufficient, I would look at the codes. All of them. So please list the codes in the order you get them when they come up.

My two cents.
Makes sense

I will run out there and check after I get the kids to bed, but off hand I think I remember it sitting at 14.0 and blinking to 14.8 sometimes.

There are a million codes per module after it goes full idiot mode. Would you like to see them all per module? The two most common are U0121 and U0002 which is what made me think it would be the ABS module.

There IS a constant CEL for crankshaft sensor Bank 1 and A, but I didnt think that could cause the whole car to go nuts after researching on here.
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 3kgtjunkie
Makes sense

I will run out there and check after I get the kids to bed, but off hand I think I remember it sitting at 14.0 and blinking to 14.8 sometimes.

There are a million codes per module after it goes full idiot mode. Would you like to see them all per module? The two most common are U0121 and U0002 which is what made me think it would be the ABS module.

There IS a constant CEL for crankshaft sensor Bank 1 and A, but I didnt think that could cause the whole car to go nuts after researching on here.
that's with the car on not resting sorry. Will report back shortly
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
All codes. You need to start with the basics. Resting battery voltage should be 12.6 volts. If it's less, you need a new fully charged battery. A lot of guys say battery is new or battery is ok. They never respond to that specific question. It doesn't matter if it's you r daily driver or a garage queen. always start with checking the power source. 12.6 volts minimum.
Then assuming power supply is sufficient, I would look at the codes. All of them. So please list the codes in the order you get them when they come up.

My two cents.
12.6 on the nose.

all codes per module, would it be more helpful if I put the diagnosis next to each?

Ecm
U0151 lost communications with RCM
U0416 invalid data received from Vehicle Dynamics Control
P2610 ECM/PCM internal engine off timer performance
U0405 invalid data received from cruise control module
P0501 vehicle speed sensor A range performance
U0002 high speed can communication bus performance
U0121 losr communication with abs control module
U0140 lost communication with BCM
U0103 lost communication with gearshift control module A
U0146 lost communication with gateway A
U0010 medium speed can communication bus
U0155 lost communication with IPC control module
U0128 lost communication with park brake control module
U0151 lost communication with restraints control module
U0101 lost communication with TCM
P0016 crankshaft position - correlation bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 crankshaft position - correlation bank 1 Sensor B
P2065 fuel level sensor B circuit
P0460 fuel level sensor A circuit
P0570 cruise control accelerate signal

TCM
U0001 high speed can communication bus
U0100 lost communication with ECM/PCM A
U0121 Lost communication with ABS control module
U0126 lost communication with steering angle sensor module


RCM
U0001 high speed communication bus
U0121 lost communication with ABS control module
U0100 lost communication with ECM/PCM A
U0101 lost communication with TCM
U0142 lost communication with body control module B
U0155 lost communication with IPC control module
U0140 lost communication with BCM

ICM
B1B33 unknown
U0100 lost communication with ECM/PCM A
U0101 lost communication with TCM
U0103 lost communication with gear shift control module A
U0121 lost communication with ABS control module
U0128 lost communication with park brake control module
U0151 lost communication with restraints module

GSM
U0001 high speed can bus
U0101 lost communication with TCM
U0121 lost communication with ABS control module
U0155 lost communication with IPC control module
U0402 invalid data from TCM

Headlight control module
U0101 lost communication with Atcm
U0121 lost communication with ABS module
U0126 lost communication with steering angle sensor
U0140 lost communication with BCM
U0142 lost communication with BCM B
U0300 internal control module software incompatibility
U3002 VIN
PASSENGER RESTRAINT
U0151 lost communication with restraints module
U0300 internal control module software incompatibility

PARKING BRAKE MODULE
P1571 unknown
U0001 high speed communication can bus
U0100 lost communication with ECM/PCM
U0103 lost communication with TCM
U0121 Lost communication with ABS control module
U0155 lost control with IPC
U0422 invalid data received from BCM

DDM
NONE

DSM
NONE

FCDIM
NONE

FCIMB
NONE

BCM
B1144 unknown

HVAC
NONE

RFA
B10A9 unknown

PAM
B1B58

PDM
NONE

BCMB
P04BB unknown
P04BF unknown

TPM
U0415 invalid data from ABS control module

AAM
NONE

ACM
U200D unknown


DAMB
NONE

NCM
NONE

SRM
NONE

TVM
 

Last edited by 3kgtjunkie; 02-06-2020 at 08:49 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-06-2020, 08:33 PM
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That massive list of codes tells me you have a battery/electrical system problem.
It could be as simple as a poor connection, either the positive or negative terminal or the earth.
I would check the earth first (runs from the negative terminal to somewhere on the body).
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
That massive list of codes tells me you have a battery/electrical system problem.
It could be as simple as a poor connection, either the positive or negative terminal or the earth.
I would check the earth first (runs from the negative terminal to somewhere on the body).
I've used a regular ODB and the list isnt as long.

On the battery itself, there is an attachment going from the negative terminal that extends it sort of, and the earth is botled right to the body next to it. Sound right?
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 3kgtjunkie
I've used a regular ODB and the list isnt as long.

On the battery itself, there is an attachment going from the negative terminal that extends it sort of, and the earth is botled right to the body next to it. Sound right?
Yep, sounds right.
Check both ends of it especially the body end, sometimes rust or crud or something else prevents it making a good metal to metal contact.
Sometimes it's a simple case of the nut or bolt coming loose and causing intermittent contact.
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
Yep, sounds right.
Check both ends of it especially the body end, sometimes rust or crud or something else prevents it making a good metal to metal contact.
Sometimes it's a simple case of the nut or bolt coming loose and causing intermittent contact.
Are there other contact areas you can think of off hand to check? I've seen at least one in the engine bay.

It would have been so much easier if it had just been a module!
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 09:37 PM
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right because OBD only reads engine codes (universal) and your LRII will read codes from other systems. Many of these can't be tested without the proper diagnostic equipment but I agree with OzXFR, it could be a ground connection. Know that there are many ground points, not just the battery. Also note that your code reader will only read the first 5 digits and not the last 2. If you had Dealer software/VCM you could pull in the last 2 codes to help narrow down but that's not realistic.
Many of the connections are communication failures between the ECM and other modules. Then the other modules are saying they can't communicate with the ECM etc. Battery appears good. Ground points should be checked as well as harness connections to the extent you can.

Download the service manual here for an XF and enter the codes. Also if you can read a wiring diagram, the ground points are listed and their locations. I'd start with the obvious and then work to the less obvious.
Sorry no docs for the 2013 but the 2012 should help find the ground points as well as the DTC index.
http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFEle...OBDIICodes.htm
 

Last edited by Sean W; 02-06-2020 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 02-06-2020, 09:41 PM
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I'll add a lot of these codes are coming to/ from the ECM/ECU. So I would check the harness and connection there first
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
right because OBD only reads engine codes (universal) and your LRII will read codes from other systems. Many of these can't be tested without the proper diagnostic equipment but I agree with OzXFR, it could be a ground connection. Know that there are many ground points, not just the battery. Also note that your code reader will only read the first 5 digits and not the last 2. If you had Dealer software/VCM you could pull in the last 2 codes to help narrow down but that's not realistic.
Many of the connections are communication failures between the ECM and other modules. Then the other modules are saying they can't communicate with the ECM etc. Battery appears good. Ground points should be checked as well as harness connections to the extent you can.

Download the service manual here for an XF and enter the codes. Also if you can read a wiring diagram, the ground points are listed and their locations. I'd start with the obvious and then work to the less obvious.
Sorry no docs for the 2013 but the 2012 should help find the ground points as well as the DTC index.
http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFEle...OBDIICodes.htm
electrical diagram is giving me flashbacks from an 84 power ram I rewired... thank you both for your help. Would you recommend just disconnecting, blasting with a solvent and brushing with a copper wire brush?
 
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Old 02-06-2020, 10:09 PM
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I dunno that I'd take a copper brush to any harness connections but I would check them to make sure they are sealed dry and not corroded. Bruch to the chassis ground points, sure.

Yep it sucks. Did it start after an event? Rainstorm or something like that? I don't know your model but there are some modules that can get buried under leaves and moisture corrodes the connections. A gent on my forum had all types of codes and found a rats nest down by his ECM. Easy fix in the end but a bit gross.
 
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
I dunno that I'd take a copper brush to any harness connections but I would check them to make sure they are sealed dry and not corroded. Bruch to the chassis ground points, sure.

Yep it sucks. Did it start after an event? Rainstorm or something like that? I don't know your model but there are some modules that can get buried under leaves and moisture corrodes the connections. A gent on my forum had all types of codes and found a rats nest down by his ECM. Easy fix in the end but a bit gross.
It started as just a quick warning gong, where gearbox fault would flash then go away occasionally, then a month or so later it would gong and either gearbox, park brake, or DSC fault would stay up but the car would drive normally, then it descended into this madness at which point I garaged it, and have been piddling with it since.
 
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Old 02-09-2020, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
I dunno that I'd take a copper brush to any harness connections but I would check them to make sure they are sealed dry and not corroded. Bruch to the chassis ground points, sure.

Yep it sucks. Did it start after an event? Rainstorm or something like that? I don't know your model but there are some modules that can get buried under leaves and moisture corrodes the connections. A gent on my forum had all types of codes and found a rats nest down by his ECM. Easy fix in the end but a bit gross.
Shawn,

Does the clicking in the gearshift and flickering of traction control confirm your thoughts? Thought it may be helpful to others that come across this issue
 
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Old 06-23-2021, 02:40 PM
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@3kgtjunkie , were you able to find the issue? I have almost the same thing with my F-Type, also from 2013.
 
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Old 06-23-2021, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Maschinenmensch
@3kgtjunkie , were you able to find the issue? I have almost the same thing with my F-Type, also from 2013.
yeah I did actually. It was a component in the instrument cluster that got hot and came loose. I only found out because I got pissed and smashed my fist on top of the panel and it kicked back on. Bought a replacement online, had to take it to the dealership. There are a few forms to sign, I caught them lying multiple times, typical jag dealership things, but overall it cost me like 600 dollars after I got them to remove the extra BS they lied about. They will tell you 3 hours plus an hour of programming. It should be an hour of labor plus an hour of programming. It takes no time on the xf to remove the ICP.

Good luck friend.
 
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Old 06-24-2021, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 3kgtjunkie
yeah I did actually. It was a component in the instrument cluster that got hot and came loose. I only found out because I got pissed and smashed my fist on top of the panel and it kicked back on. Bought a replacement online, had to take it to the dealership. There are a few forms to sign, I caught them lying multiple times, typical jag dealership things, but overall it cost me like 600 dollars after I got them to remove the extra BS they lied about. They will tell you 3 hours plus an hour of programming. It should be an hour of labor plus an hour of programming. It takes no time on the xf to remove the ICP.

Good luck friend.
Wow, that is exactly the hope I needed 😀

My symptoms are the same and since the cars are from the same year, I believe it might be the same reason as you had.

Thank you for the reply! I really appreciate the help one can get here.
 


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