Will you get plots of afr with boost and rpms with these dyno sheets? Would be very curious to see that info...

 

No updates on the dyno chart? Would love to see one

 

Thanks for asking. I am having new tires installed today and then will reschedule another run on the dyno to get more accurate results. These will be posted next week assuming I can get it done by then.

 

Very local tuner, very interesting indeed, waiting for your post of the charts.

 

Looks like the shop beat you to it.. they put your dyno run on their website.

Now I don't know much about these charts.. but how come the numbers don't match the graph? Are they factoring in the loss between engine and rear wheel?

 

Yeah that is a really odd graph. It looks like you actually lost a bunch of power and torque on the lower end and it pushed your power band up and to the right. The numbers definitely don't match to the graph as mentioned above though. Definitely a nice peak power gain!

 

Pretty sure that is just some early readings under partial throttle as the rollers are spinning in 4th gear. Once they nail the gas at probably around 1,500-2,000 RPM then the numbers jump and you see the results. If it is less power at that RPM, its is only for a brief tenth of a second before the power kicks in...if that. Probably they just mashed the gas a hair later on the blue run.

Have no idea why the graph scale is off on the left/right side.

 

I was not present for the dyno run, so I can't say for sure how things were done. I was told this was done in 3rd gear in "Sport" mode with Dynamic on. The results are odd because the end of the run spiked to the listed readings but they shrunk the graph so this does not appear on it. I believe this is due to some inexperience and a possible mistake at the shop. Therefore, they have agreed to run it again now that I have new tires on the car. I am scheduled to have the run done on Monday morning. Hopefully, we have some results that can be posted with more confidence.

 

Good luck and thanks again for doing the the dynos.

I just did a Google search on the 2010 XKR and the ratio for third is 1.52 and 4th is 1.14. They should run in the gear that is as close as 1:1 as possible...so 4th. I believe you will see higher numbers in 4th as well.

But, they may be running in 3rd because I just read could be considered safer as it has a shorter run time and lower top speed.

 

That was my thought too from the previous page. Kind of curious to see the results in 4th gear if the car can be run that way...which it should.

 

It can, but while in 4th bring to 4200 RPM before you stomp it. That should prevent it from kicking down into 3rd gear during your run. Also use just sport mode and DSC all the way off. A lot of people don't know, but if you push that button it's does show it lite up. But it's not all the way off. To do that, hold the button down for about ten seconds and you will see a message appear and it says it is off. Looking forward to your numbers.

 

BigCat09 posted the following:

So , what have we all learned is to Dyno any 2010 to current Jaguar correctly you must use a 4 wheel linked dyno that will keep the front wheels spinning same as rear wheels to allow the car not to panic and get a full pull of the whole power band. And also when your about to stab that throttle make sure you do not click the micro switch at all on the gas pedal until your over the 4,500rpm range to prevent it from kicking down to 3rd gear. 4th gear is the ideal or closest to 1 to 1 ratio for accurate comparable readings. If you can not get a tach signal from the OBD port you can do like I did and unclip the coolant tank and remove the rubber heat foam pad on the coil packs and slide on your tach wire cable from the dyno. We did not see much of any difference in any of the modes like Dynamic, Sport, DSC, Trac DSC, DSC Off, Etc but a lower rpm peak.
I still suggest to use Sport mode and paddle shift to hold your starting gear, DSC Off, Dynamic on for best results on the first try.

 

I appreciate all the helpful tips. I have passed these on to EuroCharged and we will use them for the run on Monday. Unfortunately, the DynoJet they have is a rear wheel only configuration.

If you can think of anything else, pass it along before Monday.

 

Hope all goes well on Monday. I've got about $1,100 burning a hole in my pocket for the tune, pulley and installation if your results look good. And I'd like to get it before the October special runs out on Thursday that saves me $100.

 

Couple things i noticed, 1) the bottom of the graph SHOULD BE rpm not mph
several tuners and dyno operators i know and use do not pull in 4th but 3rd. The dyno speed at full rpm pull in 4th is a very high mph. Anything lets go in the drivetrain and its severe. 3rd gives accurate results with less risk.
Spiking up after dyno? Looks like its on its way down to me and no reason to go up. Even if it did and i was claiming those numbers i would post it.
Dynos of eaton always show drop off about where shown. Increasing boost does (should) bring boost in not only sooner, but less trail off up top of boost and power. But as you turn them up so does youre heat and parasitic losses. When i went from a eaton to kenne bell the dyno showed no drop off of power or boost and was still going up at 7k redline. Not as steep, but still upward where the eaton had dropped longer before in power and boost. Peaks between the 2 were 10psi eaton and 12psi twin screw. But a 100 foot pounds more torque at 3000rpm at the start of the pull for the kb.when i see dynos with incorrect info. Missing numbers etc i suspect further foolery.
fyi i have installed lots of stuff over the years that never lived to supplier claims for me. Some alot lower and some power loosers. Its always a good rule to use the same dyno operator and dyno doing baselines and dyno as you go. Yeah more expensive, but if results and accurate info is what you want then youll see the patterns. I picked up 50rwhp just switching dyno's with same setup.

I wish we could lie to SDD to load a xfrs tune but it would see a vin mismatch between loaded vin and vin in all the modules thus stopping us in our tracks

 

OK, the moment you have all been waiting for - the Dyno results of the EuroCharged Tune!

We took the 2010 XKR on 3 runs this morning; doing our best to get a clean run with DSC OFF, Dynamic ON and in Sport Mode. Our only issue was using 4th gear as many had suggested. We simply were not able to maintain 4th gear as it invariably would drop to and stay in 3rd, from 3,000 to 6,500 rpm. I took a video of the Dyno screen during the runs and the tester commented that he had never seen another car rev through the dyno run as fast as the XKR did. The time from 3,000 to 6,500 seemed like 1 to 1.5 secs. I will try and post this video in separate response.

You will find the three runs depicted together on one chart showing the RPM with each run starting at 3,000 rpm and going to redline at just beyond 6500. The highest output reached was 483 rwhp which compared to the stock ECU settings before the tuning were at 382 rwhp. By the way, this single run was the best of the two dyno runs made in the stock ECU settings. The other stock run produced 372 rwhp.

When compared, the charts show a significant increase of 100 rwhp for the best run. The other thing to notice is there is not a sharp drop off in torque through the run. Therefore, those looking for a noticeable "seat of the pants" effect certainly ought to find it in this performance tune as compared with the stock ECU tune.

I am happy with the dyno run today and very happy with the results. I find it money well spent. I look forward to everyone's comments and critique.

 

Seems the results are very similar to the ETG Tune while costing $1000 less! 480~ whp seems to be the average for these tuned and pullied 5.0L V8's.

Thanks for the update!

 

Looks great dude! +112 lbfts is pretty insane too. I wish I didn't care about the awesome extended warranty I have or I would be all over that!

 

I would be interested to hear if anyone has ever been denied warranty coverage because of a performance tune.

 

I don't know much about AFR except that if it gets too high, it goes boom. What ratio is too high? I went back and researched BigCat09's dyno curves (attached) and I noticed his were at around 15 all the way across. But I couldn't remember if he took AFR with his runs or not?

The dyno runs that USMAXKR2010 posted all look to start at 15 and then go down to 12 at about 5K RPM. Can anyone tell me what is safe? I've read other places that 11.5 to 12 is perfect. I'm soooo close to getting the Eurocharged tune and I think this will be the last question that needs to be answered before I'm in.