Yes, you would need to remove the cam covers to check cam slots, removing the front covers will just allow you to check guides, chain slack, tensioners etc. whiich may be useful. You need to get the crank pulley off first though, not that easy with engine in place but possible. It's all difficult to do without dropping the engine.

 

When you have removed the phaser solenoids and cranked the engine and pushed the middle of the phaser with a screwdriver....should they all be fairly silent or do they ever make any noise when pushed? I have one phaser that is normally silent and when pushed it changes timing but it makes a rattling type sound when pushed.

Wondering if you've experienced that?

 

I did it with the engine running and don't remember hearing anything when I pushed it.

 

Well considering the other 3 on mine are silent, I think I have a phaser that is working but on it's way out, given that, I might as well switch gears into a full blown phaser and chain job.

Thanks for your help! It's been very much appreciated.

 

Be sure to keep us posted !

 

Hey man, I've got all my parts and tools in! Do you happen to know for certain if Jaguar 5.0 and Range Rover 5.0 cam gear/phasers are interchangeable? I saw there is a small power difference between the two vehicles and figured I better make positive that they are the same....(I'm actually working on a Rover but the phasers I was shipped have Jaguar engraved on them). I can't find any source that says they are positively interchangeable.

 

I am 99% sure they will be the same. I mean, why wouldn't they be? They are controlled by the ECU. Cams are different though which would explain the power difference. Are you changing all four?

 

Yes, doing all four since I'm in there....it's too much of a job to leave some behind lol. It has a lot of miles (165k) so I'm sure if one is going out, they all are on their way out.

Hey do you happen to know if the alternator can be change from the bottom without removing half the engine bay. I'm considering changing it just because I'm there. I'm also doing all the injectors and plugs, is there anything else you think I should replace just because I'm there (even if it's currently okay)?

Thanks!

 

Do you know...does the crank just need to be at 6:00 and the cam locks on? Or do you have to rotate the cams to a specific position....with just the groove in the middle I can't decide if it's correct or 180 off

 

There is a crank locking tool that goes in in place of the crank sensor that locks the crank in the correct position. Cam ID number has to be upwards. Here is a short video I made.

 

I think you should be able to change the alternator from below. Your biggest problem will probably be removing the injectors with the engine in place. With that mileage I would say it might be impossible. I presume the water pump is on your list plus new front cover.

 

I replaced a bunch of stuff, tons of coolant stuff, all the injectors, etc. I'm almost finished putting it back together. I had the cam tools and the crank lock. After putting all the timing together and lining up all the marks, I was able to hand turn the engine a couple turns with no interference and put the cam tools back on to make sure they still went into place. I think I'm going to be good with the timing.

Quick question.....so when putting the supercharger upper plenum back on, is there a tightening sequence and do you happen to know the torque specs for the 4 middle bolts and all the perimeter bolts? Also, is there some kind of washer or spacer that goes under the head of those 4 middle bolts? It seems like I'm bottoming them out with about an eighth inch before they seat. And yes, I have the gasket in there lol. I'm wondering if there were orings or something that goes with these bolts (pictured) that have got misplaced or something?

 

I don't torque any of those kind of fasteners I just tighten them. Bolts look like I remember them, nothing missing. Probably some corrosion you are feeling. Oil the bolts.

 

It's easy enough to pull that upper plenum, I'm just putting a couple washers on it for now and ordered a tap to clean up the threads in the bottom....tried pb blaster and a lubricant and neither fixed it.

Anyway, I've got it back together and a bit disappointed. So this work fixed the timing where bank 1 was off 20 degrees...the chain was off a tooth or so and now the actual timing reads correctly in live data....so that's great! EXCEPT.....bad news....so that bank 1 intake came flickers between 73ish and 150even just like yours did. It'll read 73ish then every few seconds it'll flicker 150 degrees real fast. So I went ahead and swapped the sensor, and made sure it was seated and tight....and it still did it. So I'm thinking either wiring or ECU.

It can't be physical, correct? The exhaust cam is fine, so am I thinking correctly that this is a reading issue and there's no way the cam can physically jump timing from 73 to 150 even....so it HAS to be either wiring or the ECU, correct?


​​​​​***UPDATE*** I got the ECU unplugged....everything 'looks' good like no obvious burned pins or corrosion. Do you happen to know which pin number is for the bank one sensor 1 (passenger side intake) sensor? It's a green/purple wire and a yellow/purple wire coming off that position sensor. I am trying to figure out what fuse it's on as well as which ECU connector pin it is.

Thanks for all your help bro!
​​​​​

 

I believe timing jump is not really happening.

 

So on that top sensor, the center sensor wire is most likely the culprit because I'm getting a constant 5v with the volt meter. Does the /33 represent the pin number at the ECU plug?

Is the only way to test this with a oscilloscope? Do you know of any other way? I don't have a scope.

 

Pin 33 correct. I think if you weren't getting a good signal you would be getting the relevant error code for a bad sensor - P0010 or P0011. You may see the signal on that wire switch between 5v and 0v if you pull the sensor and touch the end with a steel object, screwdriver or similar. Ignition on of course. I seem to remember bench testing a sensor that way before.

 

Well the saga continues! LOL.....SOOOO I've still got bank 1 sensor 1 reading the timing then intermittently jumping to 150 degrees. BUT now I'm also getting a bank 1 sensor 2 code of p0366 which is for "circuit range performance".

I have tested both sensors at a solid 5v even with me moving the wiring around. I've also ran a ohm signal on both sensors signal wire, and both buzz for continuity but the sensor 1 showed .8 resistance (which is also what I get when touching the ends together) and the sensor 2 shows between 1.9-2.2 resistance.

Now that would suggest that my sensor 2 has a issue but live data shows it's timing great! Its my sensor 1 that jumps to 150 degrees!

 

These are active sensors you cannot test then with an ohmmeter.

 

I said that wrong, I meant I was testing the wiring with the ohmmeter. I swapped the sensors around to see if that made a difference (it didn't). Then I checked for 5v which was spot on for each, then ohm tested the sensor wire from the sensor connector to the ECU connector. They buzzed for continuity and sensor 1 had correct resistance and sensor 2 was showing a bit too much resistance and it's the one throwing a circuitry code.....which is odd because it reads great in live data and sensor 1 is the one going to 150 in live data, yet tested fine!

*UPDATE* I do not understand electrical all that well...the basics kind of, but fairly handicapped. BUT, could this be a issue there these 2 sensor wires are rubbed into each other??? Could that cause sensor 2 wire to see too much resistance (meaning lower voltage passing through) and the other wire to have too much voltage passing through creating the 150 spikes??? Hmmm, how could I test for something like this using just a basic volt/ohm meter???