Fault code P0236
#1
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Anyone else experience this code? I've seen very little online albeit a thread on here and 1 or 2 other things. My indie found this code today after getting a check engine light this weekend that went off by itself.. He couldn't find much and suggested I call the dealer if my extended warranty covers it.
Seems to be a boost or MAP sensor of some sort. Any experience with this code? I called the main dealer service center and they had no idea what it was..
Seems to be a boost or MAP sensor of some sort. Any experience with this code? I called the main dealer service center and they had no idea what it was..
#2
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#4
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As you said the MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR is the usual culprit here.
What Jag ToPIX says →
The MAP sensor allows the ECM to calculate the load on the engine, which is used in the calculation of fuel injection time.
The MAP sensor is installed in the air inlet of the SC (supercharger) . The sensor is secured with a single screw and sealed
with an O-ring. A three pin electrical connector provides the interface with the engine harness.
If the MAP sensor fails, the ECM adopts a default value of 1 bar (14.5 lbf/in. 2 ).
With a failed MAP sensor, the engine will suffer from poor starting, rough running and poor driveability. ←
Testing the MAP is fairly simple with a vacuum pump and multimeter, but the more likely culprit here is a engine vacuum leak. Before you go any further, let the engine cool, take the engine cover off an just look to see if any vacuum lines have come off. Pay particular attention to the vacuum hoses around the front and back of the engine. I've attach a sensor location PDF. Your Indi should know his way around this?
ELEC ENG CONT LOC.pdf
What Jag ToPIX says →
The MAP sensor allows the ECM to calculate the load on the engine, which is used in the calculation of fuel injection time.
The MAP sensor is installed in the air inlet of the SC (supercharger) . The sensor is secured with a single screw and sealed
with an O-ring. A three pin electrical connector provides the interface with the engine harness.
If the MAP sensor fails, the ECM adopts a default value of 1 bar (14.5 lbf/in. 2 ).
With a failed MAP sensor, the engine will suffer from poor starting, rough running and poor driveability. ←
Testing the MAP is fairly simple with a vacuum pump and multimeter, but the more likely culprit here is a engine vacuum leak. Before you go any further, let the engine cool, take the engine cover off an just look to see if any vacuum lines have come off. Pay particular attention to the vacuum hoses around the front and back of the engine. I've attach a sensor location PDF. Your Indi should know his way around this?
ELEC ENG CONT LOC.pdf
Last edited by Bigg Will; 08-23-2016 at 03:29 PM.
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webshark (08-23-2016)
#5
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I have been struggling with the same code. I replaced the sensor mentioned above and my two air filters, reset the computer and the code comes back. Dealership wanted $3,000 to replace both of the sensors. My car runs fine, but light keeps coming back. I would love to hear from anyone that has successfully corrected this issue which many of us are dealing with.
#6
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My Jag indie told me when they replaced my air filters that they come in matched pairs from the same batch. According to them the sensors are sensitive enough to register differing air flows from each. They said they had a customer who had DIY'd replacing just one and for weeks was getting a check engine light which he couldn't figure out. Replaced both filters with a genuine pair and problem gone. Given what I have heard about OEM TPMS sensors etc, for the XFR being a sensitive beast, it wouldn't surprise me. I don't know if this might help or be of any relevance to you but if you have changed your filters recently then might be worth double checking...
And if you're near Austin, these are them JagTechs - Jaguar Specialist of Austin - Your Complete Jaguar Repair Facility
And if you're near Austin, these are them JagTechs - Jaguar Specialist of Austin - Your Complete Jaguar Repair Facility
#7
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#9
#10
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I have been struggling with the same code. I replaced the sensor mentioned above and my two air filters, reset the computer and the code comes back. Dealership wanted $3,000 to replace both of the sensors. My car runs fine, but light keeps coming back. I would love to hear from anyone that has successfully corrected this issue which many of us are dealing with.
#11
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Vacuum leak check is free. You can also check the air filters for free, If you have a muliti meter and vacuum pump you can check the map sensors and mas air flow sensors can be cleaned etc..
Last edited by Bigg Will; 10-17-2016 at 04:12 PM.
#12
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So I replaced the rubber tubing to the boost actuator because it was cracked. But still get the light. Where else around the engine could there be vacuum leaks? I've cleaned the MAFs three times which improves performance but doesn't help with the CEL. Could a reduction in airflow (dirty air filters) set off the CEL for the MAP sensor?
#13
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So I replaced the rubber tubing to the boost actuator because it was cracked. But still get the light. Where else around the engine could there be vacuum leaks? I've cleaned the MAFs three times which improves performance but doesn't help with the CEL. Could a reduction in airflow (dirty air filters) set off the CEL for the MAP sensor?
#14
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I don't think flowing air filters would give you a boost pressure fault, did you reset the fault code? If not it will take a few runs with no issues to reset itself. If you did reset the light and it came back, I would look at the boost pressure sensors. There are 2, one next to the throttle body, and one on the back right corner of the engine.
#15
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You go to the bank, take out some money then go to the dealer and give the car and money to him to fix your issue...lol
#16
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So...The weather all of a sudden made a quick change in San Diego to cool and a little bit of rain for the past couple days. Since then I haven't seen this code pop up once in the past 3-4 days. Before it would trigger every time I started the car..I'm moving to Seattle ☔😛.....
Also, the first time I saw this code was when I drove from San Diego (75 degrees) to Palm Springs (119 degrees). As soon as I got to hot air temps and dry air the code came on. Could ambient air temp/density changes have something to do with a faulty MAP sensor?
Also, the first time I saw this code was when I drove from San Diego (75 degrees) to Palm Springs (119 degrees). As soon as I got to hot air temps and dry air the code came on. Could ambient air temp/density changes have something to do with a faulty MAP sensor?
#18
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Thank you for sharing the link for the code. After viewing the link, I looked up some videos on the MAP code which led me to looking at the throttle body. I disassembled the y-pipe which showed that the tube from the wastegate fractured at the y-pipe which would be the possible vacuum leak to throw a code. The throttle body also showed some gunk on the valve so I thoroughly cleaned it. At the end, I repaired the wastegate tube, cleaned the throttle body and used a can of CRC Valve Cleaner (engine running) for any possible carbon build up. I most say,...the car has been transformed! I have had it since June and it has never run this strong. It could have been the wastegate tube, throttle body or the CRC Cleaner...or all three.... it just runs stronger than it ever has...AND NO CEL!
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Gpalace (11-01-2016)
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