I'll be ticking over 62,500 miles on my 2011 XFR.

Two heavy track days at Willow Springs and one drag racing day at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana and I have absolutely zero issues with the motor. Original water pump, no differential problems (other than the fact that I swear it's an open diff/E-Diff sucks), and zero electrical gremlins ever.

Knock on wood when I say this but, I am surprised and glad that my XFR has not been hit with any of the issues so commonly mentioned on this board. It has been so faithful that I am currently driving the car outside of warranty without changing my driving habits at all.

 

It is an open diff until the computer says you need some LSD. The computer knows best.

 

If you are sympathetic to the car's needs and don't try to get by without fixing things when they start to fail, there's no reason why these cars can't last several hundred thousand miles.

 

2010 65K no problems yet.

 

2009 110k full Jag SH recently noticed slight rattle noise at front of engine from tick-over to around 1200rpm which seams to resonate through exhaust (thought it was heat shield rattle at first look). Suspect very early timing chain issue. Will be booking car in to local garage to diagnose.

 

I bought the car at 100k miles. Seemed to be in very good condition. I did my research on the car and XFs in general and the carfax came up clean. To my knowledge the car never had any major issues. Only part that was replaced was the water pump. It was used as a commercial vehicle and an oil change was documented either every 3k miles for the entire life of the car. I still knew the coolant systems in these cars could be a problem and I had an idea of what I was going need to replace so I was ready for whatever. I put about 1200 miles on it including a trip from Atlanta to Nashville. A buddy of mine has a 2013 srt charger 392 so I wanted to see how it would match up. Long story short I left him by an eighth mile which surprised me. I was in sport paired with dynamic mode and in doing so the crossover pipe which looked glued together split and coolant shot up the windshield. I Had it replaced. As well as the supercharger gasket, manifold gaskets, two other hoses, and the belts. I replaced the water pump and there was a plastic piece behind the water pump that looked worn and had some busted rubber bearings so I had that replaced as well as the water pump. While doing so I noticed It wasn’t the first time the water pump was replaced which I figured because water pumps don’t last long on these cars. Since the repairs I have had no problems. And right now I’m at about 105k miles. My last car was a 2014 camaro 2ss and it was stolen and police found it a week later dumped and fully stripped to the bone. My first car was a 1989 xj6 so I’ve always been a fan of Jaguar. In switching from the Camaro to the Jaguar, I have to say I am way more satisfied with the overall driving experience and comfort of the car. I just wish it had as many guages the camaro or any other sports car.. This is still the only car that makes me take the long route home.

 

I'm at 108k. Bought a year and a half ago at 85k. Runs like a beast

 

Had my Belt Tensioner replaced on my current engine ...not sure if this is the same as Timing Chain Tensioner.

2012 XF 5.0L V8 with replaced engine in 2015. Previous engine may have had the timing chain issue because I was hearing a diesel like sound heavy clicking on idle. Car drove normally but the sound was annoying. Replaced under warranty dealer said low engine oil pressure.

 

Belt tensioner totally different from timing chain tensioner. Much much much much easier to replace.

 

I have 100,100 miles on my 2012 Jaguar XFR and then one morning....bam! Timing guide/tensioners went on cold start up and the chain jump a couple teeth.

 

185K miles on my 5.0 Supercharged, still going strong. Check your oil often, oil starvation is always an engine killer. It is especially important with this engine. Make sure your oil level is always in check as there is no low level warning. It is my belief that oil starvation is the most major culprit in the tensioner/guides failing on the 10-13 engines.
Revised parts will definitely prevent the chain from moving around too much, but oil starvation, IMO, is what is taking them out. I have had rattle from the timing chain on warm restarts since 86K. Since it is such an expensive fix even if you do it yourself...I have chosen to increase my engine RPM on warm restarts and allow the tensioner to regain oil pressure. Increase engine speed to 1500 for 20 to 30 seconds before your drive and the engine will quiet and run fine.
I am certain this coupled with watching my oil level like a hawk, is the only reason the tensioner/guides haven't failed yet. I have also been down the drag strip over a dozen times and I generally drive like I stole it most days. Hope this helps some of you guys approaching high mileage. I have many more recommendations for anyone interested, but I'll wait until someone replies so I know I am not just talking to myself!

 

What oil do you use? and how often do you change the oil?

 

If you don''t mind I'll jump in here although you addressed your question to GaiaXF.
As you probably already know I run 5W-20 oil (and always have) - Nulon full synthetic - and I change the oil and filter every 6 months (works out around 3,000 for me) on my V6 F-Type.
I have never had an engine problem other than the dreaded torsion isolator/coupler rattle which was already bad when I bought the car (3.3 years ago, 16k miles on the clock now 35k miles) which I had fixed under warranty.
But even after the fix the engine is still extremely rattly at start up and cold idle and the rattle only subsides once it warms up, and even then it is still a bit rattly.
I have long suspected the rattle is coming from one or both high pressure fuel pumps but now based on what GaiaXF says it could well be one or both timing chains.
The F-Type is different at start up to the XF, it revs straight to 2,000 rpm automatically, but then drops back to a fast idle (1,200 rpm) after about two seconds then to a slow/normal idle (720 rpm) about 20 seconds after that.
I reckon I might try a little experiment as per GaiaXF's advice - for the next couple of weeks on start up I will keep the revs up at 1,500 RPM for 20 to 30 seconds before I drive off, and see what effect (if any) that has on the rattle.

 

Ozzy I have written extensively about this subject and solved my chain noise some years ago.
I suspected that the passages to the oil actuated vvt and the tensioner were being blocked with sludge.
Lets examine the logic of what you are suggesting and experiencing. You get a rattle and it dissipates as the pressure rises.
If the tensioner and chain were too loose to be compensated, it would never go away.

I cleaned the daylights out of the engine by running 9 bottles of techron (PEA), several oil flushes and solved the problem.
You should look into 0w oil as Jaguar did to alleviate this problem. They first mentioned the 0w20 oil in a tsb addressing cold start rattle.
I use 5w20 because I dont have a problem and 5w20 has lower carbon buildup problems.

 

The noise is on warm restarts not when the engine is cold. I use the OEM oil, the Castrol Edge OE Professional 5w20. I have tried using 0w20, the new Jag spec, over a few oil changes and it made it worse. It was so bad that I didn't shut off the car unless it would cool down fully. Raising the RPMs with 0w20 didn't work. There may be a difference in rattle intensity, mine is beyond a rattle, the only thing I have found that works is 5w20 and increasing the RPMs. It is my understanding that the HPFP noise comes from the back of the engine. You'll know if it's timing noise as it is REALLY loud at the front of the engine. The marbles rolling around sound is the torsion isolator in the supercharger.

Let me know if this works for you, I've always been curious if my bandaid actually helps or if I'm just weirdly lucky.

 

Not sure you have this right, the two high pressure fuel pumps are on the front RHS of the engine (from the driver's seat), one behind the other.
See pages 41 and 42 of this pdf: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8y4iax9hm2...%20V8.pdf?dl=0

 

Oh well that's interesting. I always thought they were further back than that. I rather like that PDF I'll have to look through that tomorrow.

 

You might also like the 2010-2011 XFR Workshop Manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bet26xniua...kshop.pdf?dl=0
If you didn't already know I had a 2010 XFR from 2015 to 2017, also tuned like yours to 542 bhp with an XKR-S tune.

 

If you got more of those links keep em coming!

Here is the full story of my experience with this issue if anyone fancies a read...

What I have done to remedy this situation was never intended to be a fix. The issue was diagnosed by my independent during the 100K mile service. Car had 94k on it at time of service. I told him I was getting what sounded like a cammed small block with rod knock on warm restarts since around 86k, and weirdly the sound wasn't increasing with RPM. Very puzzled by my description and with the car still warm I demonstrated it to him. He diagnosed the sound using an engine stethoscope as excessive chain slack and the sound I am hearing is the chain moving more than it should against the guides. He said the tensioner and/or guides are a very common issue and a lot of 5.0 owners were losing engines to this problem. The shop quoted me 4600 to fix the issue with the uprated parts.

I did some research on here about the issue and saw what the new guides look like vs the old. I decided that I didn't want to spend my savings on the issue just yet. I called the shop to say no thanks and asked about the, then, new 0w20 oil and if it would help the situation. He said probably not, but it might be worth a shot, so go for it. I had them put in the new oil and when I picked it up, the engine was cold so the engine sounded fine. So, I got home, I jumped on ebay, and bought the new oil in bulk. I do my own oil changes and it saved me some bucks. I definitely jumped the gun.

Everything was fine until the first warm restart. I went to fuel up and the sound was horrendous. I flushed out the engine again when I got home putting new 0w20 back in. Thinking a flush would help, but then didn't, I decided to drive it for 3K miles and see what happens. Cold starts to shutdown...engine sounds fine. As soon as I start it up from warm, horrendous sound. So I gave the now dark 0w20 one more chance since I had enough for one last oil change. Same deal. I immediately flushed it and went back to 5w20. After putting 5w20 back in, it sounded like it did when the problem first started, no better, no worse.

Next time I fueled up I raised the RPMs thinking it wouldn't sound as bad as it did at idle. After getting a few WTF looks from the gas station, I thought "maybe it'll save me some embarrassing looks." 1500 RPM and after 10 secs or so, it seemed to help quiet it down but the sound was still present. On the next warm restart I raised the idle to 1500 RPM for 30 seconds and to my surprise the noise was completely gone. Not exactly sure why this works, just glad that it does.

My original intention was to have this issue fixed, but after about 20K miles and then a pulley and tune, I felt fine about this not being such a dire issue after-all. Especially because it didn't get worse after the modifications. Here I am now at 185K miles...noise still present on warm restarts and it hasn't given up yet. Again, this is NOT meant to be used as a fix. I rolled the dice and got lucky(?)...my engine is still running. Would it still be running had I not done this...not sure anyone will ever know for certain. I'm hoping in the end I can tear down this engine and see what it looks like. I will absolutely report back if and when the time comes.

 

bought mine 3yrs ago with 80k on it. Have replaced a coolant fan and fuel pump twice. New brakes, tires, and guibo connecting drive shaft to transmission. Currently having a bad shimmy between 40-50mph and I think my next move is going to be lower control arms. Also have a check engine light on from maf sensor.
Other than that, love it! Currently 106k on odometer. Headliner falling in back and a little shrinkage in dash leather.
2011 Jaguar XFR.
Not looking forward to future repairs but from what I have read, probably will need to replace plastic coolant parts / water pump and spark plugs in the near future