Thanks again Jssaab and Cragybar, I am waiting for the PCV Valve cover to arrive. I did a quick look at the hoses and they looked fine. if I'm still experiencing the issue after changing the cover, I will definitely look a lot closer at the hoses. I'm hoping in a couple of weeks I wil;l know and can post back my experience.

Kevin

 

Hi, sorry for responding so late. I just returned home and the PCV valve cover arrived. My only wish is that I do not have to remove the supercharger but it really looks like I might have no choice as it looks very tight in there.

I found another post about it by Jarad Margiasso HERE that Jssaab was a part of. It has hope I can remove the cowl, wiper and tubes and then access enough to swap. I really hope so and will try this weekend. More concerned about the install of the new one than the removal of the old one.

 

Yes it would be great if you could figure out a way to change the PCV diaphragms without removing the SC.
Will be watching to see how you do it.
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messy on the 3.0. Pull charge cooler hoses. Remove the big vacuum hose from the TB and pull it up (I bungeed it to keep it out of the way. Use picks to pull the tabs up (I slid a plastic ruler under the ones I pulled up. You only need to get half of them up that you can get to and it will pop up and out of the way. You can slide it out. To put it in you need to compress the rubber diaphragm against the cap to squeeze the spring. I used a small metal ruler against the intake across the hole slid it in and pulled the ruler out.

should have taken a video

 

Thank you Jssaab,

I was on the right thought process but was trying to think of a way to pass the clearance when installing the new cover. I never thought of a steel ruler, that is brilliant!
Did you remove the cowling and wipers or just worked underneath it and used the pick to disengage the connection on the large vacuum tube?

 

Ok, just finished the swap of the PCV Valve cover, it was actually so much more easier than I expected. Thank you again Jssaab for the metal ruler idea, it worked perfectly.

Here is a bit of a tutorial for those looking to complete their own swap, hopefully this will help someone.
This was completed on a 2014 Jaguar XF 3.0L AWD.

Tools used;
- 10mm socket (Cowling brace)
- 13mm socket (Wiper Arms)
- contoured pick (Removal of washer fluid hoses)
- 90 degree pick (To remove push tabs and cover)
- Steel ruler (Hold rubber on spring when installing cover)
- remote lighting
- Cleaning supplies (Clean parts after removal)

Removing of Covers and Cowling


Open the hood (Bonnet) PCV valve cover is to the upper left of the engine cover


With the engine cover removed and flipped over, one can see it is attached with four grommets to four ball pins attached to the engine. The Red and Blue rear grommets will most likely stay attached to the pins and you will need to remove and insert back into the cover.


Location of the PCV Valve Cover


Removal of the Cowling. This consists of removal of the wiper arms, washer hoses, Plastic cowling, support bracket, wiper motor cover and the cowl clip under bottom of glass.


Pop the plastic cover off arm to expose 13mm nut.





Disconnect washer fluid hoses, be gentle and slowly slide off not to damage fitting.


pull arms off the shaft. I couldn't find my wiper arm tool so I just used a small gear/bushing puller. Without a tool, you have a higher chance of damaging the cowling or the motor arm assembly.


Pop the pins or gently press in to remove the plastic clips.


Careful with the removal of the cowling as it clips down into the section that slides under the windshield glass. You will want to carefully lift up on the cowling to clear the wiper bolts without placing stress on the plastic glass clip. Once the cowling is pulled, you can slide down the glass clip by gently sliding downward. Disconnect the washer fluid hose and place aside.


Remove the two clips and remove the wiper motor guard.


Remove the 4 10mm bolts, unclip the plastic tube and slide out the support for the expansion cooling tank so you can remove the support brace.


You now have easy access to the area and to remove tubing.



Remove Tubing


The clips attached to the battery tray can be popped open by pressing together and popping the bottom.



The vacuum tubes can be disconnected by squeezing tabs together and softly pulling out of fitting.


The breather tube uses a slightly different means of securing but it is still the same principle.


Squeeze together at the ridges areas while slight pressure inward, then pull and it should pop off. Do this on both sides.



Remove the two cooling lines to give room to remove the breather line. You need to press in on the clip, squeeze the two buttons on the side and then carefully pull off. There will be fluid so I have placed some paper towel under fittings to capture.


Carefully spin tubings out of the way to allow access.


You now have easy access to the cap.


Now you can see that there is a rubber seal which allows clearance to swap out cap.


Using the pick, you can pull the clips away while placing a slight upward pressure to remove the cap.





When removed, I found the issue. Sure enough there is the rip.


Using the oversize cotton swabs, I cleaned it out.


Using the metal ruler to hold down the rubber so I could place and secure the cap.





After cleaning the removed parts, I re-installed in reverse order.



Kevin

 

Nice job, thanks for doing such a nice job with the explainer, I could not have done it better.... in fact I did not make the effort to remove everthing, I just pulled the vacuum hose out of the way after I took the charge cooler hoses off, Was not as easy as if I did everything but I am really lazy

 

LOL, I was thinking of finding a shortcut but in the end I was also lazy to the degree that I didn't want to break something and then it would take three times longer.

Thank you again for the help!

Kevin

 

Thanks for the great instructions!
I am not sure but what code did the car have when you found the ripped PCV diaphragm?
I saw you posted two codes but the dealer was looking at O2 sensors which were not the problem?
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Hi clubairth1,

Actually the two codes; P2189 and P2187 were the codes I was able to pull up.

(As I mentioned before, I was having issues with my SDD (Actually my Laptop crashed and now I have to reload it to a new one when I have time. I just used my Torque app)

As you can see looking up these codes, they cover a lot of options. I don't know the exact reason for the dealership to point to the O2 sensors and I didn't ask a lot about it at the time because they offered to swap them out without charge. I was informed that they felt this would help with the over rev issue, I completely forgot about the other posts that pointed to the PCV valve cover and my search didn't produce much as I was more focused on O2 sensors.

I was not certain about this being an issue until I actually had it removed and seen the rip.

Kevin

 

Yeah EGR valve will give lean idle codes. I had the P2189.