Hello everyone....new to the forums, but I've read almost all of the XF threads.

After driving the 550i, 535i, S4, S5, and A6, the XF beats them all. It's fantastic.

I'm negotiating to order and buy and XF Portfolio, but I'm not sure what a fair price over invoice would be. I'd like to have a good relationship with the dealer (since there are only 2 in the Denver area), so I don't really want to haggle over a couple of hundred bucks, but I don't know what is fair. Is it $1000? $1500? $2000? I always buy and don't lease, but if that is a suggested route, please let me know.

Many thanks.

 

Start with www.truecar.com for any pricing info. Just plug in your criteria and see what's what.

The link below shows what you can do between buying and leasing. The money factor, IMHO, is actually an interest rate and may be negotiated depending on how badly they want to lease a car.
The decision is up to you.
My wife has always leased cars because at the end of the lease, you merely take it back to the dealer and drop it off. But, the downside is that you must start the process all over again with the same brand or another.

Car Finance Calculator – Car Lease Calculator – Cars.com

money factor

Money factor is not an annual percentage rate. In a lease, the lease company uses the "money factor" — an arbitrary fractional number, such as .0042 — to calculate the lease charge or fee. The monthly payment combines the resulting fee with the depreciation charge (the total value the car loses over the term of the lease divided by the number of monthly payments). To better understand the money factor, multiply it by 2,400 to arrive at a more typical APR; this calculation will be slightly above the equivalent APR that the money factor represents. This percentage is more useful in comparing leases with each other than with loans, however, because it doesn’t account for all fees and only loans build equity. For example, a rate of 9.84% [.0041 x 2,400] on a lease, while lower, is not necessarily a better deal than a 10.4% APR on a loan, all other factors being equal.

Also, if a dealer quotes you a money factor such as 3.1, which sounds like a low APR, you can multiply that by 2.4 in order to get the equivalent APR. In this case, the rate would be akin to a 7.44% APR.

 

Just the thread title had me ROTFLMAO!

 

I bought a 2012 XF Portfolio in September and paid about $500 over dealer invoice. The margin for the dealer was not much but recognize that they receive a sizeable holdback from Jaguar - $1060 if I am correct. That compensates them well. Buy at the end of the month when they need to make their quota. Good luck!

 

Glad to hear any opinion or advice you may have.
Thanks.

 

This is just what I think from my own personal experiences.

Primarily, it all depends on how well you haggle and if you can walk away from a deal that's not 100% to your satisfaction. Some people fight over that last $50 on the price. Others are not so critical. It solely depends on your prowess to haggle and level of comfort.

The Edmunds website will tell you invoice for the car and options/packages as well as their "True Market Value" which is some sort of indicator of what people are paying for the car based on the zip code you enter.

It might also depend on the location of your dealer. In some areas, people can get great deals such as $500 over invoice. In other areas where they are flying out of the lot, you may not get such a great deal. If you are special ordering, I would think you have more leverage since you aren't buying a car that's already on their lot.

Pick your battles on where you absolutely won't budge on price:

* Out the door price of car with options desired
* Value of your trade-in if applicable
* Financing if going with Jaguar's Financing Group as opposed to your own
* Extended warranty and additional options (extra stuff that the financing agent sells after the price of the car is determined)

 

Thanks. I should be getting a quote from the dealer this afternoon and I'll post how we end up.

 

I guess your question is how much over 'dealer cost' and not 'over invoice'. Over invoice (to me) means paying a surcharge on top of the window sticker price.

 

The window sticker price is the MSRP.

The dealer invoice price is the dealer cost.

Thanks.