XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

I'm Devin - This is my XFR-S

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  #1  
Old 08-22-2021, 05:28 PM
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Talking I'm Devin - This is my XFR-S

Hi everyone, wanted to introduce myself to the X250 forum. We picked up a 2015 XFR-S in white in late June, (From California) and I have been enamored with it. This is our second Jaguar, we also acquired an X260 XF Sportbrake in January of this year. Thread on that car here

I typically make a "build thread" or ownership thread for all the cars I buy and play around with, and will do the same thing for this one. My love for cars has always been a thing since childhood, and my first car was a 2001 Lincoln LS V8. Thanks to that car I discovered more about Jags, specifically the DEW98 chassis and its LS/TBird lineage with the S-Types. Picked up my second LS in 2016 and have converted that car to a long-term project. So I kinda have 2.5 Jags in the garage . Absolutely head over heels with both XF's and looking forward to sharing the journey with you all. Have only put about 1,000 miles on the car, but all I can say is WOW. It is very different than the X260 3.0L s/c, the car is just an animal. Getting the rear end out is easy to do, but its also very confident even when not under traction. Great road feel and the soundtrack is to die for! the 60-100 on the highway is.. breathtaking. Being a white sedan and having the smaller wing it also stays under the radar until the exhaust crackles, overall really good balance. It is one of the first cars I have been in where I dont feel the immediate need to alter it.

Meet Karli, my 2015 XFR-S in Polaris White, 44k mi!









Couple small things right off the bat though - CF Jag frame and some all season mats for the inside.





Questions! I have a lot of questions as I begin my research - if anyone can fill me in I would greatly appreciate it as I start my knowledge quest!

About the XFR-s in general:
1) Production #'s ever disclosed? Handful of articles cite 100/production year, 200 total, etc. But I cant find anything formal about how many of these were made in the USA or ROW across the 2013-2015 range.
2) Similar to #1 any allocation or theories by color? Couldn't find a blue one, never seen a grey one.
3) Does anyone have an order guide for theirs they can share? Mine has the smaller wing, and the CF engine cover. It also has the all black wheels vs machined face. I am curious what other options were available and not selected. I can find brochures and articles, but nothing that shows an option matrix to show me what was available and what was chosen.
4) Aero - since mine has the more subtle of two rear wing options, anyone know if this reduces the "68%" aero increase? I love the smaller wing, but curious if it was ever verified if it does a weaker job of keeping the car down.
5) Is there an online registry for these or owners club?
6) Anyone actually drive these in the snow before? I don't think I will, but noticed it does have the winter drive mode, which made me laugh.
7) Top online part sellers? SNG? Any others? I do a lot of my own work, so I would love any good recommendations for maintenance items and parts.
8) Repair manual? Any paperbacks, CD's, dowloadable PDFs? I love a good OEM resource for referencing and DIY.
9) I come from the VW/Audi world where we have VCDS (vagcom). Its a pretty user friendly diagnostic software for coding, scanning, testing. Like Forscan for fords as well. Anything like that exists for the Jags that is citizen accessible?

About my car specifically -
1) Lower carbon grille on the front is cracked, likely a curb or parking block. The weave is separated. I don't think it can be repaired. Anyone have a part number for just the carbon insert? (I cant seem to locate one). I need to replace it, as well as the pair of black lower lips that mount the bottom. THOSE I can find on parts catalog.





2) Any recommended products for cleaning and keeping the CF engine cover looking great? I have removed it from the car to prevent further wear, thinking ill throw it on for car shows.



3) What is the FIRST thing I should check out on this car or address? Any know 5.0L issues? I've seen coolant loss threads a lot, and have been checking my oil religiously. Thinking of doing fluids and filters first. While maybe not necessary, cheap insurance.
- brake fluid (Motorcraft 5.1?)
- diff fluid (Amsoil? Valvoline 75w140?)
- Coolant (OEM Jaguar)
- Steering Fluid
- Engine Oil and Filter
 

Last edited by DeviLSh; 08-22-2021 at 05:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-23-2021, 08:08 AM
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Very nice. I have one in Italian Racing Red. Its got some sort of aftermarket "cold" air intake on it that I'm wanting to return to stock, but I don't have the intake tubing from the airboxes to the S/C.
 
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Old 08-23-2021, 08:17 AM
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Welcome, and beautiful car!

Some cars have premature timing chain failure. Search youtube for what they sound like when they're failing.

The supercharger isolator is a known failure. Those who also have Eaton TVS superchargers (ZR1, CTS-V, other LSA powered cars) are also familiar with these faults. There are solid couplers manufactured by a number of aftermarket companies. The community is pretty divided here as the solid couplers are harder on the bearings.

Carbon build up on intake valves is a common occurrence. Some members have used CRC GDI Intake cleaner and have had good results.

The transmission fluid was originally claimed to be lifetime by ZF. They have since backtracked and recommend every 60k. The filter is part of the pan and must be replaced at time of service.

The cooling system is made of plastics and there are common failures (like the Y pipe on the back of the motor) that can lead to overheating/low coolant. Our cars do not have a temperature gauge and the only warning you will have from the drivers seat is a overheating warning. The car will enter limp mode eventually but if you continue to drive it you will overheat the motor. Replacements are expensive (20k). The supercharger needs to come off to replace this pipe (ask me how I know) and at that time you should replace other common plastic cooling system components and change the oil in the supercharger. Depending on your goals for the car this can be a good time to have some porting work done. Kong performance is big in the TVS community.

Facelift cars have soft touch surfaces. Makeup and other contaminants will ruin them.

Lastly the dash, made of leather, is prone to shrinking from the sun. I recommend covering the dash with those foil shields when not in use and regularly applying leather conditioner.
 
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Old 08-23-2021, 08:21 AM
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Also, the carbon cover for the supercharger, if its hazing it probably just needs a polish with a cutting compound. Most people find the cover's add to heat soak and remove them.
 
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Old 08-23-2021, 08:36 AM
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@vfrman Nice grab - the car from MN that the guy did the deadpool wrap on? I almost made an offer on that one, if I remember correctly he had a eurocharged tune on there and maybe a pulley too. I think I saw your thread about the intake, and your WTB for stock plumbing. Good luck. I might be interested in the aftermarket stuff when it comes off your car so let me know. (want to do some experimenting)
 

Last edited by DeviLSh; 08-23-2021 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 08-23-2021, 08:57 AM
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Thank you so much Vic, super helpful and exactly what I was looking for. (also love that you have a MKV R32 in your signature <3 )

In line with your comments.
- Just got out of a 42 V8 B6 S4, timing chain issues is not what I want to hear lol
- I did not even think to go over to the LS based cars for looking at the s/c issues. I saw a few threads where people did the oil service, but haven't heard about the isolator/bearing discussion. Thank you for this.
- For the carbon buildup - if the CRC stuff doesn't work, do you need to remove the s/c and do something like a walnut blasting?
- I also read about the lifetime fluid on the trans, but was thinking about closer to 80-100k, good to know on the 60k interval! Is this the Pan?
- I assumed like most AJV8 stuff, the plastic cooling parts are at risk of decomposition. Does anyone offer a comprehensive kit to replace the system or do I need to a la carte each part? Since I am lower mileage, I am worried about age and shocking the materials when it gets cold here in a few months. This car came from California and its probably never see 20*F and below. I was thinking of doing the coolant refresh, adding the upgraded intercooler pump and aluminum unit, to get the car ready for a tune.
- This car was lady owned, soft touch is sticky and could use replacing (headunit buttons) As are the buttons near the shifter dial. my X260 does not have this material.
- So far dash looks pretty good, upper section of door cards are starting to get a little wavy though I remember reading about this. What about a clear ceramic front tint instead of the reflective covers?



 
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Old 08-23-2021, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by DeviLSh
Thank you so much Vic, super helpful and exactly what I was looking for. (also love that you have a MKV R32 in your signature <3 )

In line with your comments.
- Just got out of a 42 V8 B6 S4, timing chain issues is not what I want to hear lol
- I did not even think to go over to the LS based cars for looking at the s/c issues. I saw a few threads where people did the oil service, but haven't heard about the isolator/bearing discussion. Thank you for this.
- For the carbon buildup - if the CRC stuff doesn't work, do you need to remove the s/c and do something like a walnut blasting?
- I also read about the lifetime fluid on the trans, but was thinking about closer to 80-100k, good to know on the 60k interval! Is this the Pan?
- I assumed like most AJV8 stuff, the plastic cooling parts are at risk of decomposition. Does anyone offer a comprehensive kit to replace the system or do I need to a la carte each part? Since I am lower mileage, I am worried about age and shocking the materials when it gets cold here in a few months. This car came from California and its probably never see 20*F and below. I was thinking of doing the coolant refresh, adding the upgraded intercooler pump and aluminum unit, to get the car ready for a tune.
- This car was lady owned, soft touch is sticky and could use replacing (headunit buttons) As are the buttons near the shifter dial. my X260 does not have this material.
- So far dash looks pretty good, upper section of door cards are starting to get a little wavy though I remember reading about this. What about a clear ceramic front tint instead of the reflective covers?
From my understanding failures are not nearly as prevalent as the dreaded the Audi 4.2, particularly the B6. The failures seem to be more prevalent on earlier cars. The factory 10k interval on oil, which we all know is way too long, may have something to do with it. The factory does call for a certain oil specification that meets some Ford specific (I believe) requirement. I've always just ran synthetic and changed regularly. Inspect your filter at oil changes.

There's a much bigger aftermarket community around the V / LSA cars.

On my ~65k mile 2011 XFR there was significant build up. I directly applied the CRC stuff to the valves and intake path and it cleaned it up significantly. Another member had used it intermittently during their ownership before they did a SC service and it was much much cleaner.

I tried to compile a parts list and what I turned up is in one of my threads. I found no comprehensive list for the 5.0, particularly the SC 5.0. I replaced the Y pipe and the small pipe coming from the water pump that goes to the cooler located under the supercharger. The plastic parts seem to fail in a relative pattern/number of heat cycles and as a component of age. If you do a supercharger service I would recommend replacing as much of the plastics as you can so you don't have any surprises.

Anything to keep UV/heat/sun off the dash will help. I regularly apply leather conditioner to my black interior.


 
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Old 08-23-2021, 12:34 PM
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Regarding the transmission pan, I found it for $160, though I do not recall where. That was about a year ago.
 
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Old 08-23-2021, 11:50 PM
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Vic is spot on with the engine cover, it's a clear that any paint and body shop can take care of for you.

I just ordered my carbon fiber insert from Vehicle Revolution in London (aftermarket) so I can't speak to the quality just yet but online photos and "reviews" look promising.

The snow mode prevents the transmission from going below 2nd gear so really only assists with aggressive off the line acceleration.

You'll find plenty of workshop manuals around on this forum. As far as the soft touch sticky button neutrogena makeup wipes work wonders. There's no point in replacing/ordering new as they were built to the same spec and will degrade to the same point eventually.
 
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Old 08-24-2021, 11:44 AM
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Hi Devin. My son just bought this 2014 last week. You're right. It's an animal. I'm an XK guy but I'll be following your thread!
 
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Old 08-24-2021, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DeviLSh
@vfrman Nice grab - the car from MN that the guy did the deadpool wrap on? I almost made an offer on that one, if I remember correctly he had a eurocharged tune on there and maybe a pulley too. I think I saw your thread about the intake, and your WTB for stock plumbing. Good luck. I might be interested in the aftermarket stuff when it comes off your car so let me know. (want to do some experimenting)
That's the one!

I'd be willing to trade for the stock stuff...
 
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Old 08-24-2021, 11:59 AM
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And definitely only use the ZF recommended oil in the transmission...
 
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Old 08-24-2021, 12:40 PM
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With a 2015 the timing chain stuff has been improved so I don't think you will run into that problem. BUT do change the oil more often as I change mine every 6K-8K miles. Forget the factory long drain intervals. It's just a terrible idea and proper fluid changes are still needed. Also use the right oil and that's a big subject in itself!!

The number one failure for the 5.0L engine is the water pump and with 44K miles you might already have had that changed? I had mine go out at 32K miles. Did you get a service report when you bought the car? Don't forget the plastic "Y" pipe on the front of the engine either. The plastic cooling parts just like on your old Lincoln LS (I had a 2003 LS!) will age and fail. With an all Aluminum engine just like the LS you can't over heat them without destroying the engine. So any hint of over heating shut it down NOW!!
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Old 08-26-2021, 05:44 PM
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Devin,

I'm doing a full fluid flush on my trans. I referred to a lot of information from this thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-217150/page9/

Chemically identical trans fluid (for the Ford branded ZFHP26). I made the mistake and bought the ZF fluid for 25 a quart. From what I read in that thread for a full change you need 14 quarts.

https://k-mansparts.com/motorcraft-t...art-detail.htm

Extractor/Pump I went with
Amazon Amazon

Parts list for DIY if you're so inclined.

 
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Old 08-29-2021, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by VicVegas84
Regarding the transmission pan, I found it for $160, though I do not recall where. That was about a year ago.
Ok great, I will keep looking around as I start to build out my initial orders.

Originally Posted by mlrtime99
I just ordered my carbon fiber insert from Vehicle Revolution in London (aftermarket) so I can't speak to the quality just yet but online photos and "reviews" look promising.
Please let me know when it arrives! I have my concerns but also my hopes on that kit.

Originally Posted by mlrtime99
You'll find plenty of workshop manuals around on this forum. As far as the soft touch sticky button neutrogena makeup wipes work wonders. There's no point in replacing/ordering new as they were built to the same spec and will degrade to the same point eventually.
Will try this and go from there, thank you.

Originally Posted by shemp
Hi Devin. My son just bought this 2014 last week. You're right. It's an animal. I'm an XK guy but I'll be following your thread!
Congrats to you both, beautiful and wild cars!

Originally Posted by vfrman
That's the one!

I'd be willing to trade for the stock stuff...
Congrats - I would like to keep my stock stuff, but let me know when you want to off load your intake kit.

Originally Posted by clubairth1
With a 2015 the timing chain stuff has been improved so I don't think you will run into that problem. BUT do change the oil more often as I change mine every 6K-8K miles. Forget the factory long drain intervals. It's just a terrible idea and proper fluid changes are still needed. Also use the right oil and that's a big subject in itself!!
I just got the service history from the PO - thankfully, it looks like an interval of <10k was followed. Reviewing that now in more detail so I can build a schedule.

Originally Posted by clubairth1
The number one failure for the 5.0L engine is the water pump and with 44K miles you might already have had that changed? I had mine go out at 32K miles. Did you get a service report when you bought the car? Don't forget the plastic "Y" pipe on the front of the engine either. The plastic cooling parts just like on your old Lincoln LS (I had a 2003 LS!) will age and fail. With an all Aluminum engine just like the LS you can't over heat them without destroying the engine. So any hint of over heating shut it down NOW!!
Fellow LS owner! Nice! Doesn't look like the pump was done, so I think I will add it to my cooling overhaul project. My LS came to IL after a life in FL, and the cooling parts failed on the first drive in cold weather. So I want to get ahead of that event if possible





Question: Is the Bosch 010 pump still an upgrade for the RS? How about the paramount aluminum IC? Anyone running either on the R-S? Thinking about adding these items to the project.


 
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Old 08-29-2021, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by VicVegas84
Devin,

I'm doing a full fluid flush on my trans. I referred to a lot of information from this thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-217150/page9/

Chemically identical trans fluid (for the Ford branded ZFHP26). I made the mistake and bought the ZF fluid for 25 a quart. From what I read in that thread for a full change you need 14 quarts.

https://k-mansparts.com/motorcraft-t...art-detail.htm

Extractor/Pump I went with https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-.../dp/B0002SR7TC

Parts list for DIY if you're so inclined.
Thank you for building this out
 
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Old 08-29-2021, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by DeviLSh
Fellow LS owner! Nice! Doesn't look like the pump was done, so I think I will add it to my cooling overhaul project. My LS came to IL after a life in FL, and the cooling parts failed on the first drive in cold weather. So I want to get ahead of that event if possible





Question: Is the Bosch 010 pump still an upgrade for the RS? How about the paramount aluminum IC? Anyone running either on the R-S? Thinking about adding these items to the project.
ZZP makes an intercooler pump that I've read flows more than the Bosch. They're relatively the same price.

https://zzperformance.com/products/z...r-pump-stage-1

If you're in IL (I'm in Grand Rapids MI) one of the premier tuners for our cars is Eurotoy's in Chicagoland. Mike (owner) is always helpful when I reach out for questions. I went with his pulley.

When you do the cooling project, I recommend also doing plugs "while you're in there".
 
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Old 08-29-2021, 11:11 AM
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I have been wondering about the ZZP unit - seems like I might try this one.

I have been emailing Mike @ Eurotoys. Lots of recommendations but I am not having good luck with him nailing down an appointment or being responsive/informative at all via email. I will likely visit him for Tune & pulley once I get there, or maybe go to him for the intercooler upgrade if he is carrying any. But I think in terms of service and work, Ill be trying to tackle on my own as much as I can.

If you are in MI we should get a meet scheduled before winter.
 
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Old 08-30-2021, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DeviLSh
I have been wondering about the ZZP unit - seems like I might try this one.

I have been emailing Mike @ Eurotoys. Lots of recommendations but I am not having good luck with him nailing down an appointment or being responsive/informative at all via email. I will likely visit him for Tune & pulley once I get there, or maybe go to him for the intercooler upgrade if he is carrying any. But I think in terms of service and work, Ill be trying to tackle on my own as much as I can.

If you are in MI we should get a meet scheduled before winter.
I am doing the same. His quote for the pulley install was actually very reasonable FYI. However, if you're planning the major service over winter, you'll have plenty of time to get it all done on your own.

A meet up sounds great. I will be heading into the Chicago area this fall. Let's hang!
 
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Old 08-31-2021, 09:16 AM
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Yes I have done both on my 2014 XJR. I used the Bosch 010 pump and if you get into it there are dozens of pumps. These are really more of a marine item too. Think bilge pumps that sort of thing. The Johnson C-30 is another option but of course it's a bit more money at around $180.
C-30 Pump

Also DO NOT purchase the improved inter-cooler from Paramount!! They do NOT make it and this cost me around $500 needless dollars!! Alli-sport is the one and only manufacturer of this part. Note also that all modern Jaguars use the exact same inter cooler. V-8, V-6, XJ,F-Type and others even though this listing only shows the F-type. Heck Paramount does not even remove the AlliSport sticker that is right on the top of the IC!! It's funny but I never found it because they call it a charge cooler and I always was searching using inter-cooler!
Allisport IC

It is a VERY nicely constructed unit to. Especially compared the plastic/Aluminum combo that comes stock. Remove the front bumper and it's very easy to install both items. The only thing I would do different next time is consider painting the IC black. You can see the Aluminum thru the grill which does not bother me but if painted black it will be pretty much invisible.




Here is everything installed before I put the front bumper back on.



Now as far as performance goes it's hard to say and I consider these types of mods more of a reliability and durability mod. I did gain a good bit of speed when I ran the Texas Mile but I had made additional changes that DID increase my HP (Lower pulley and stage II tune). I came from a 2005 S Type R with minor mods and those cars do suffer from heat soak badly. We are very lucky that Jaguar really engineered the 5.0L SC engine much better as I can't say I have felt or seen heat soak in my 2014 XJR and I live in hot south Texas.

Hey that's cool you still have it!! I did not want to get rid of my LS as I still like the looks and how it drove a lot. But it was an extra car and had to go. 2003 LS V-8 Sport. Metallic red with black leather. Very nice car but Ford/Lincoln just never developed/improved it like Jaguar did on the S-Type. Sold at 132K miles. It got me interested in the DEW98 platform and now I guess I am a Jag guy?



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