I'm Devin - This is my XFR-S
#21
09-01-2021, 07:28 AM
Senior Member
Welcome, and beautiful car!
Some cars have premature timing chain failure. Search youtube for what they sound like when they're failing.
The supercharger isolator is a known failure. Those who also have Eaton TVS superchargers (ZR1, CTS-V, other LSA powered cars) are also familiar with these faults. There are solid couplers manufactured by a number of aftermarket companies. The community is pretty divided here as the solid couplers are harder on the bearings.
Carbon build up on intake valves is a common occurrence. Some members have used CRC GDI Intake cleaner and have had good results.
The transmission fluid was originally claimed to be lifetime by ZF. They have since backtracked and recommend every 60k. The filter is part of the pan and must be replaced at time of service.
The cooling system is made of plastics and there are common failures (like the Y pipe on the back of the motor) that can lead to overheating/low coolant. Our cars do not have a temperature gauge and the only warning you will have from the drivers seat is a overheating warning. The car will enter limp mode eventually but if you continue to drive it you will overheat the motor. Replacements are expensive (20k). The supercharger needs to come off to replace this pipe (ask me how I know) and at that time you should replace other common plastic cooling system components and change the oil in the supercharger. Depending on your goals for the car this can be a good time to have some porting work done. Kong performance is big in the TVS community.
Facelift cars have soft touch surfaces. Makeup and other contaminants will ruin them.
Lastly the dash, made of leather, is prone to shrinking from the sun. I recommend covering the dash with those foil shields when not in use and regularly applying leather conditioner.
Some cars have premature timing chain failure. Search youtube for what they sound like when they're failing.
The supercharger isolator is a known failure. Those who also have Eaton TVS superchargers (ZR1, CTS-V, other LSA powered cars) are also familiar with these faults. There are solid couplers manufactured by a number of aftermarket companies. The community is pretty divided here as the solid couplers are harder on the bearings.
Carbon build up on intake valves is a common occurrence. Some members have used CRC GDI Intake cleaner and have had good results.
The transmission fluid was originally claimed to be lifetime by ZF. They have since backtracked and recommend every 60k. The filter is part of the pan and must be replaced at time of service.
The cooling system is made of plastics and there are common failures (like the Y pipe on the back of the motor) that can lead to overheating/low coolant. Our cars do not have a temperature gauge and the only warning you will have from the drivers seat is a overheating warning. The car will enter limp mode eventually but if you continue to drive it you will overheat the motor. Replacements are expensive (20k). The supercharger needs to come off to replace this pipe (ask me how I know) and at that time you should replace other common plastic cooling system components and change the oil in the supercharger. Depending on your goals for the car this can be a good time to have some porting work done. Kong performance is big in the TVS community.
Facelift cars have soft touch surfaces. Makeup and other contaminants will ruin them.
Lastly the dash, made of leather, is prone to shrinking from the sun. I recommend covering the dash with those foil shields when not in use and regularly applying leather conditioner.
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GeeVeeXF (11-06-2021)
#22
09-01-2021, 07:36 AM
The only thing I would add to this is the Mechatronic seal in the trans. Its rectangle and plastic and will crack guaranteed. There is a billet AL one on ebay(https://www.ebay.com/itm/27379940386...YAAOSw44BYP34I) that can fix it for good. There are seal kit in the trans too that are a good idea to change out every 50K with the Lifeguard6 fluid. The breather on top of the diff needs to be clear at all times and flush the fluid in that every 50K as well.
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DeviLSh (09-05-2021)
#24
09-01-2021, 06:28 PM
#26
09-05-2021, 08:05 AM
Yeah thanks for asking @vfrman I thought the same thing. Does the ZF8 in the R-S still need this mechatronic seal @Benjamin Jerome Smith
@clubairth1 THANK YOU for validating my concerns on the price increase. I am going to ask Mike @ Eurotoys about it and see what he says. Allisport is about $800 USD right now converted. Emailed them for a quote just to see if its in stock. I am not expecting gains from the pump & IC, but I am going to put together a cooling system overhaul and would love for this to happen at the same time.
Nice LS, they still look great after all these years!
@clubairth1 THANK YOU for validating my concerns on the price increase. I am going to ask Mike @ Eurotoys about it and see what he says. Allisport is about $800 USD right now converted. Emailed them for a quote just to see if its in stock. I am not expecting gains from the pump & IC, but I am going to put together a cooling system overhaul and would love for this to happen at the same time.
Nice LS, they still look great after all these years!
#29
09-07-2021, 05:56 AM
I have started my part# project for the RS cooling system. Can anyone confirm for me the following before I order:
The most current up-to-date/revised water pump part # is: AJ813909
AND
What year did they transition the Y-Pipe underneath the S/C, and front upper crossover tube it connect to, to plastic? My RS has what appears to be plastic (pictured below), but I am noticing in a lot of cooling system posts, earlier XFR cars had the cast aluminum. Is "upgrading" to the older metal units an option? Or should I plan on doing this job again in 5 years and just buying new plastic.
Took some stuff off yesterday to just have a small look - noticed some white/orange crystalization by the water pump bolts and mating surfaces. Level is about 0.5" below cold fill line.
Does anyone have any part diagrams specific for the RS? Most of the images seem to resemble the XFR, which might be fine. But I noticed my car has an Aux rad on each side and I can seem to find the hoses associated with these or the rads themselves in any of the OEM websites (harper, Annapolis, Palm Beach, etc)
The most current up-to-date/revised water pump part # is: AJ813909
AND
What year did they transition the Y-Pipe underneath the S/C, and front upper crossover tube it connect to, to plastic? My RS has what appears to be plastic (pictured below), but I am noticing in a lot of cooling system posts, earlier XFR cars had the cast aluminum. Is "upgrading" to the older metal units an option? Or should I plan on doing this job again in 5 years and just buying new plastic.
Took some stuff off yesterday to just have a small look - noticed some white/orange crystalization by the water pump bolts and mating surfaces. Level is about 0.5" below cold fill line.
Does anyone have any part diagrams specific for the RS? Most of the images seem to resemble the XFR, which might be fine. But I noticed my car has an Aux rad on each side and I can seem to find the hoses associated with these or the rads themselves in any of the OEM websites (harper, Annapolis, Palm Beach, etc)
Last edited by DeviLSh; 09-07-2021 at 05:59 AM.
#30
09-07-2021, 11:47 AM
Veteran Member
Well that's a great idea but the changes made by Jaguar are such that the metal and plastic parts do NOT interchange! Which is a real shame. Those early cars (2010) had a metal "Y" pipe but it had a plastic coupling between the "Y" pipe and the engine which failed and caused just about the same problems so it was NOT trouble free at all!
The only metal cooling part that I know to be released is the metal tube between the water pump and the rest of the engine.
Here is the metal part listing;
Metal Cooling Tube
If you do find any metal parts that will swap over please post as a lot of us would pay extra to remove any crappy plastic cooling items from our cars!!
Note; you have the old square shoulder seam plastic cooling parts in your picture which have all been replaced by parts that have smooth seams. They are suppose to be improved parts and they do seem to last longer but who really knows? So yes those all need to be replaced including the rear water manifold which requires the SC to come off. There has been one or two people who changed this without removing the SC but it's a very difficult repair and I will be removing the SC when I do the rear manifold.
I had the water pump and front cooling pipes replaced under warranty already.
With the virus problems I am not surprised that IC from Allisport is back ordered.
Mercon SP is exactly the same fluid as Lifeguard 6 except for the color change so easier and cheaper to get.
Oh those are AUX radiators for the engine cooling system. I can't find much about them except there is/was a dual AUX radiator setup sold in some parts of the world. Never found exactly where maybe the middle east? I have one on the passenger (right) side of the engine and just a block off plate on the drivers (left) side. Since I live in a very hot area in the US I had considered adding the drivers side one but new from Jaguar is way too expensive and after searching many places and not finding any used. I think it must have been a very rare option?
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The only metal cooling part that I know to be released is the metal tube between the water pump and the rest of the engine.
Here is the metal part listing;
Metal Cooling Tube
If you do find any metal parts that will swap over please post as a lot of us would pay extra to remove any crappy plastic cooling items from our cars!!
Note; you have the old square shoulder seam plastic cooling parts in your picture which have all been replaced by parts that have smooth seams. They are suppose to be improved parts and they do seem to last longer but who really knows? So yes those all need to be replaced including the rear water manifold which requires the SC to come off. There has been one or two people who changed this without removing the SC but it's a very difficult repair and I will be removing the SC when I do the rear manifold.
I had the water pump and front cooling pipes replaced under warranty already.
With the virus problems I am not surprised that IC from Allisport is back ordered.
Mercon SP is exactly the same fluid as Lifeguard 6 except for the color change so easier and cheaper to get.
Oh those are AUX radiators for the engine cooling system. I can't find much about them except there is/was a dual AUX radiator setup sold in some parts of the world. Never found exactly where maybe the middle east? I have one on the passenger (right) side of the engine and just a block off plate on the drivers (left) side. Since I live in a very hot area in the US I had considered adding the drivers side one but new from Jaguar is way too expensive and after searching many places and not finding any used. I think it must have been a very rare option?
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Last edited by clubairth1; 09-07-2021 at 11:53 AM.
The following users liked this post:
DeviLSh (09-07-2021)
#31
09-07-2021, 03:52 PM
Well that's a great idea but the changes made by Jaguar are such that the metal and plastic parts do NOT interchange! Which is a real shame. Those early cars (2010) had a metal "Y" pipe but it had a plastic coupling between the "Y" pipe and the engine which failed and caused just about the same problems so it was NOT trouble free at all!.
The only metal cooling part that I know to be released is the metal tube between the water pump and the rest of the engine.
Here is the metal part listing;Metal Cooling TubeIf you do find any metal parts that will swap over please post as a lot of us would pay extra to remove any crappy plastic cooling items from our cars!!.
Here is the metal part listing;Metal Cooling TubeIf you do find any metal parts that will swap over please post as a lot of us would pay extra to remove any crappy plastic cooling items from our cars!!.
Note; you have the old square shoulder seam plastic cooling parts in your picture which have all been replaced by parts that have smooth seams. They are suppose to be improved parts and they do seem to last longer but who really knows? So yes those all need to be replaced including the rear water manifold which requires the SC to come off. There has been one or two people who changed this without removing the SC but it's a very difficult repair and I will be removing the SC when I do the rear manifold.
Oh those are AUX radiators for the engine cooling system. I can't find much about them except there is/was a dual AUX radiator setup sold in some parts of the world. Never found exactly where maybe the middle east? I have one on the passenger (right) side of the engine and just a block off plate on the drivers (left) side. Since I live in a very hot area in the US I had considered adding the drivers side one but new from Jaguar is way too expensive and after searching many places and not finding any used. I think it must have been a very rare option?
Hopefully over the next couple of weeks some stuff will start arriving. Today I ordered:
1 - Coupler Kit: Oil, Coupler, tools from ZZP
2 - Maintenance Items: Oil Change parts, Cabin Filter, Plugs, Fuel Filter, Brake Fluid
3 - Coolant overhaul : Radiator, Water Pump, Plastic Stuff, Reservoir, and any hose I could find on oemvehicleparts.com
4 - Associated Install Stuff : IM gaskets, hardware, sealants...
5 - Fun Stuff: Aluminum Intercooler, Bosch 010 Pump, K&N Drop-Ins, some detail goodies
Stay tuned!
#32
09-08-2021, 08:25 AM
Veteran Member
So your RS does have both AUX radiators installed from the factory?
If so it's the first example I have heard of.
Yes please post some pictures of this rare setup!
One other thing is the large SC plenum gasket is reusable so that will save you some money. I purchased a new one before I found that out.
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If so it's the first example I have heard of.
Yes please post some pictures of this rare setup!
One other thing is the large SC plenum gasket is reusable so that will save you some money. I purchased a new one before I found that out.
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#33
09-09-2021, 09:40 AM
Senior Member
https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...uid-quart.html
#34
09-16-2021, 10:50 PM
Made a separate thread for auxiliary radiator info HERE
More parts showed up this week, visited Eurotoys LTD (45min from my house!), so decided to get start on getting the car apart.
New stuff rolling in! Oil, Coolant, I/C, Pump, Filters, Brake Fluid, Gaskets, Supercharger parts, etc
New Intercooler vs Stock
Engine shot after Radiator, Fan, I/C, and Intake parts removed
WHAT HAVE WE HERE!
[
**Question!!**
It looks like my Aux/Intercooler pump is updated. It is smaller in height/profile than the earlier cars, and the part# pulls up lots of 2015+ JLR cars. Also, the harness is showing 3 wires, not 2. So I need to figure out if the bosch pump is still a feasible (and worthwhile) upgrade for me. I would have to think the bosch flows more, using solely bigger = better logic. But if the 3rd wire is a PCM feed/signal, than I need to figure out how essential that is or if there is a work around. I need to see the the newer Ftype crowd has replaced this pump with something larger.
Part #: EX53-8501-AA
More parts showed up this week, visited Eurotoys LTD (45min from my house!), so decided to get start on getting the car apart.
New stuff rolling in! Oil, Coolant, I/C, Pump, Filters, Brake Fluid, Gaskets, Supercharger parts, etc
New Intercooler vs Stock
Engine shot after Radiator, Fan, I/C, and Intake parts removed
WHAT HAVE WE HERE!
[**Question!!**
It looks like my Aux/Intercooler pump is updated. It is smaller in height/profile than the earlier cars, and the part# pulls up lots of 2015+ JLR cars. Also, the harness is showing 3 wires, not 2. So I need to figure out if the bosch pump is still a feasible (and worthwhile) upgrade for me. I would have to think the bosch flows more, using solely bigger = better logic. But if the 3rd wire is a PCM feed/signal, than I need to figure out how essential that is or if there is a work around. I need to see the the newer Ftype crowd has replaced this pump with something larger.
Part #: EX53-8501-AA
#35
09-16-2021, 11:32 PM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Devin,
I'm late to the party here and I see you asked for workshop manuals etc a while ago.
You can get the 2010/2011 XFR Workshop Manual from my Dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bet26xniua...kshop.pdf?dl=0
And the AJ133 Technical Training PDF here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8y4iax9hm2...%20V8.pdf?dl=0
There is no later Workshop Manual for the XF let alone the XFR-S but 99% of what is in that older one still applies to your engine.
The Technical Training PDF came out when the AJ133 first came out in 2009 so it's fairy old but again some 99% still applies to your engine and only a few parts/components have been updated in the interim, mainly the timing chains, tensioners and guides and the front coolant cross-over pipe.
Also I'm sure it's somewhere in one of those docs, I looked but couldn't find it, the explanation and diagrams of the twin auxiliary coolant radiators system where from memory it says "only fitted to hot climate market vehicles eg Middle East". Why you got this on yours and I didn't on my old 2010 XFR - how is Australia NOT a hot climate? - is another one of those JLR mysteries, maybe it was an R-S thing?
I'm late to the party here and I see you asked for workshop manuals etc a while ago.
You can get the 2010/2011 XFR Workshop Manual from my Dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bet26xniua...kshop.pdf?dl=0
And the AJ133 Technical Training PDF here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8y4iax9hm2...%20V8.pdf?dl=0
There is no later Workshop Manual for the XF let alone the XFR-S but 99% of what is in that older one still applies to your engine.
The Technical Training PDF came out when the AJ133 first came out in 2009 so it's fairy old but again some 99% still applies to your engine and only a few parts/components have been updated in the interim, mainly the timing chains, tensioners and guides and the front coolant cross-over pipe.
Also I'm sure it's somewhere in one of those docs, I looked but couldn't find it, the explanation and diagrams of the twin auxiliary coolant radiators system where from memory it says "only fitted to hot climate market vehicles eg Middle East". Why you got this on yours and I didn't on my old 2010 XFR - how is Australia NOT a hot climate? - is another one of those JLR mysteries, maybe it was an R-S thing?
The following users liked this post:
DeviLSh (09-17-2021)
#36
09-17-2021, 12:07 AM
Thanks Oz - for your post but also all your contributions in the forum in general. I have seen you username come up in almost every thread I have looked at for acquiring some knowledge.
I have been using both the AJ1233 and the '10/'11 pdf's during my honeymoon stage here. Thanks for linking them here as another reference. So far, these and the jagclassic parts links have been the perfect combo to getting RS stuff sorted.
I need to find it again too, but I recall seeing the middle east designation, either way, my car has it so... GREAT! lol.
I have been using both the AJ1233 and the '10/'11 pdf's during my honeymoon stage here. Thanks for linking them here as another reference. So far, these and the jagclassic parts links have been the perfect combo to getting RS stuff sorted.
I need to find it again too, but I recall seeing the middle east designation, either way, my car has it so... GREAT! lol.
#37
09-17-2021, 10:40 AM
Veteran Member
Great info and I have been wrong this whole time! I keep calling them AUX radiators but they are part of the IC system and they are really AUX IC radiators. This is great news because charge cooling is our number one barrier to making more power.
I have held off adding the smaller upper pulley on VAP's recommendation that I would be pushing the intake temps too high and would need to go to copper plugs at least one heat range colder. But with this added IC volume I think this problem should be solved or at least much reduced?
Still trying to understand the hose routing when running both AUX IC radiators?
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I have held off adding the smaller upper pulley on VAP's recommendation that I would be pushing the intake temps too high and would need to go to copper plugs at least one heat range colder. But with this added IC volume I think this problem should be solved or at least much reduced?
Still trying to understand the hose routing when running both AUX IC radiators?
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#39
09-17-2021, 04:53 PM
I have held off adding the smaller upper pulley on VAP's recommendation that I would be pushing the intake temps too high and would need to go to copper plugs at least one heat range colder. But with this added IC volume I think this problem should be solved or at least much reduced?