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Car is out of storage as of last month, and during that time it looks as if the passenger door module failed. Windows and locks on the passenger side of the car were not functioning. Dealer has diagnosed module was getting power and ground but no communication. I am hoping this is the extent of the issue and its not related to something more major like CJB/Battery. Wish me luck.
Family and I are moving to a new house this Summer, and just started the selling process of our current. Also, hit a truck tire in the Sportbrake and it knocked the catback out of alignment, so between that mishap, the house-move, and this door module, money being spent on not-so-fun stuff right now. Hoping to get the RS back, detailed, and off to some cars & coffees this summer in lieu of my normal wrenching and modifying.
@Reaxions and @VicVegas84 and everyone else... that means you need to keep modding on my behalf please
Totally understandable, and we'll keep plugging away. I went through a bunch of that stuff myself for several years (huge house projects, new cars, starting a few businesses, etc.). It's all great stuff, but not as fun as playing with our toys (well, I did get to mod the hell out of one of my other cars). Ha-ha!
I'll be at it for a while, as this is the current state of my XFR - I received my Allisport intercooler yesterday, so pulled out the rad and OEM IC, and started on the rear of the SC...
Didn't get a chance to get anything done over the weekend (Son's soccer tournament, Mother's Day, etc.), but hope to get the SC pulled soon. You guys weren't lying when you said getting to all of the stuff behind the SC was a total b*tch.
Anyway, good luck with everything - we'll be here when you get back!
Hey everyone - I am still here! We successfully moved into our new house and I am working on getting the unfinished garage worthy of some more wrenching. Its been about a year now since the cooling system overhaul and I am happy to report no issues since. About to order some oil change supplies, cabin air filter, and get some winter paint protection of the RS.
I am also thinking about getting the battery replaced pre-emptively. I suspect it is the original and want it addressed before the cold temps arrive. My start/stop has never worked since getting this car, and there is an aux battery in the back. Wondering if its never worked and maybe the aux battery is dead. What should I expect to pay the dealer for replacing both of these? Is there a way to disable the Auto start/stop? I pulled a plug in my x260 to achieve this. Not really looking for the feature per-se, but if its a symptom of a bad aux battery I want it addressed to prevent any follow-up issues from that.
A more exciting update on the car - I took it to the drag strip this week on a whim, and was able to pull off what I think is an awesome time in it.
11.9 @ 115 mph, with a 1.80 60ft. All of this was done on a 50*F night, on my 295 Bridgestone all season tires that are a few years old. I couldn't believe it. I read HJones' RS drag strip threads and a few others for guidance and expectations, but my best times were achieved using Dynamic, S-Mode, Trac DSC, and easing into the throttle off the line with minimal brake-revving. Just lift and go and the tires grabbed. MAN this car screams and just Kees pulling too. The back 1/8mi is a blast in this car. I tried getting heat into the tires, running with Trac Off, modulating, etc and I couldn't get off the line as easy as the Trac DSC mode allowed me to. Super happy with the car and what a great baseline to set should I add tune & pulley down the road.
Enjoy some pics from the track!
As always, thanks for checking in and hope everyone is doing well
11.9 @ 115 mph, with a 1.80 60ft. All of this was done on a 50*F night, on my 295 Bridgestone all season tires that are a few years old. I couldn't believe it. I read HJones' RS drag strip threads and a few others for guidance and expectations, but my best times were achieved using Dynamic, S-Mode, Trac DSC, and easing into the throttle off the line with minimal brake-revving. Just lift and go and the tires grabbed. MAN this car screams and just Kees pulling too. The back 1/8mi is a blast in this car. I tried getting heat into the tires, running with Trac Off, modulating, etc and I couldn't get off the line as easy as the Trac DSC mode allowed me to. Super happy with the car and what a great baseline to set should I add tune & pulley down the road.
That's a great 60ft and quarter mile time! And you achieved that on all-seasons and temps in the 50s?!
With the S/S auxiliary battery you have two choices to permanently and completely disable it:
1. Disconnect it by unbolting the earth/ground lead from where it bolts to the floor of the trunk - follow the black lead which runs from the negative terminal of the aux battery and you will find that tie down point. Once removed from the bolt make sure you zip tie the end up so it can't contact any metal part.
2. Just remove the aux battery entirely, a little more work but easy enough.
Both methods effect nothing else in any way and may help to prevent problems with the main battery.
Even if you wanted to replace/renew that aux battery it is very hard to find and almost all dealerships and parts dealers will tell you it is simply not available from anyone other than a JLR dealership, and they will slug you a pretty penny for the pleasure.
It is in fact an Exide EK151 just rebranded with a JLR sticker and that battery is not available in the US other than from a dealership, but you can get it from Europe if you are willing to pay the highish shipping cost.
And the main battery is an H8 AGM. Easy to find in any auto parts store and a lot cheaper than a dealer install...
Not sure on your model. On my 2010 the battery bracket bolts straight through the car floor and pokes out underneath. So it can rust in place. Try spraying penetrating oil to free it up for 24 hrs first. If it breaks (which mine did) it's the same as a ford part you can get for under $10 on eBay...
Great times and glad to see your Jag at the track!
You may have a failed SS system?
I replaced the small AUX battery in my 2014 XJR. SS worked for a few days and then I noticed no matter what I did or the conditions the car was operated under the SS system did not work? Car would never shut off at a stand still.
Hooked up my SDD and yes I had a couple of SS system errors (Sorry I don't have the error codes?) and with further research found a post by one of our factory tech's Brutal. Who said it's a very failure prone system and to just let it be and to be grateful it failed and you no longer need to worry about it. So I have no plans to troubleshoot it or repair it. Nice because I don't have to turn it off and I don't have any dash lights either.
I have attached two TSB's concerning the Start-Stop system if you do want to fix it. Note the "Health Check" instructions.
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Thanks guys! I can't believe I was able to get that 60ft on the all-seasons.
After seeing these posts and thinking about it, I am fine with deleting the Aux Batt as I don't care for the SS feature anyway, as long as there is no adverse effects from its full removal. I would like to do the full delete - has anyone done a write up on it or is it as simple as unbolting and cable management?
In regards to the main battery replacement. Do I need the SDD for this service? I am intimidated by that whole process and don't want to screw something up.
Last question, I am seeing H8 in size so @BritCars for confirming that. Has anyone tried the anti-gravity lithium batteries in this car? AGH8 Link
Zero adverse effects from removal of the aux battery.
In fact nothing but good effects - permanently disabled S/S system, weight reduction, less wear and tear on the starter motor and reduced risk of failing main battery.
Just remove all easy to undo/remove brackets and cables (there may be one or two nuts or bolts that are difficult to get at without a wobble extension) and remove the battery.
No. You don't need SSD for battery replacement. The car has some sort of battery charge monitor that will need to adjust but it does that automatically. I've changed mine prob 3 times in the 10+ years I've owned it and just disconnect, swap and reconnect.
Must be nice. My battery died and now my door locks don't work...again. Jag has a technical bulletin on how unhooking the battery could damage the junction boxes. Cost to replace is around $5k. So, I drive a car I can't lock.
Must be nice. My battery died and now my door locks don't work...again. Jag has a technical bulletin on how unhooking the battery could damage the junction boxes. Cost to replace is around $5k. So, I drive a car I can't lock.
I feel your pain. It's going to be embarrassing for me to manually lock it for a while, but I'll eventually tackle it.
Here is the TSB if you have not seen it. We now know that there are at least one aftermarket tool that can reset this so you don't need to replace the junction boxes. Same problem is that it is not fixed and will happen again with a battery change. I think it was an Autel device?
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Here is the TSB if you have not seen it. We now know that there are at least one aftermarket tool that can reset this so you don't need to replace the junction boxes. Same problem is that it is not fixed and will happen again with a battery change. I think it was an Autel device?
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It's a bit confusing that the TSB talks about the "vehicle startup battery".
Which battery are they talking about, the main battery or the aux battery????
Coz the aux battery is NOT used to start the car (power the starter motor), that is still done by the main battery, but many will assume that "vehicle startup battery" = aux battery coz the aux battery is part of the start/stop system. How it works is when start/stop is in operation and the system shuts the engine down at a stop, when the driver then hits the go pedal and the system knows that the engine needs to be restarted, the aux battery takes over powering the auxiliaries/peripherals (lights, infotainment, HVAC etc) for a second or so while the main battery powers the starter motor, then once the engine has restarted the main battery takes over again and the aux battery goes back to sleep.
I *think* JLR are talking about the main battery or at least I hope they are, but if instead they are talking about the aux battery someone should get their **** kicked coz it is not the "vehicle startup battery"!
Definitely a group of products I'd recommend - I only drive my XFR once a month and had read about how sensitive the vehicle is to low voltage levels AND how much parasitic drain there is.
This is a smart monitor, it will alert you if it hasn't communicated with the car in 7 days -
as far as addressing the drain I keep the car connected to a small charger through a panel installed connector. Pull into the garage, plug it in, piece of cake.
Here is the TSB if you have not seen it. We now know that there are at least one aftermarket tool that can reset this so you don't need to replace the junction boxes. Same problem is that it is not fixed and will happen again with a battery change. I think it was an Autel device?
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I hate to be thick but can you help me figure out what tool will fix the locking issue and the procedure to use it?
05-09-2022, 03:17 PM
