Sorry I don't remember but was impressed that an after market tool could do what apparently Jaguar can't?? Jaguar claims replacement of both junction boxes is the only fix. The Autel? resets whatever the problem is in the junction boxes BUT does NOT fix it permanently. The next time the battery is disconnected you will need to run the procedure again.

Since the junction boxes are expensive and not easy to replace it would be worth spending a good bit to get the correct Autel device.
Hopefully VicVegas can weigh in?
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I'm hoping to find the correct device and procedure...I was quoted over $4k to replace those two damn boxes. The dealer told me I had some special "saloon package" which more than doubled the price for the parts...but the part numbers are the same as the non-saloon package. It's very odd.

 

Did you ever figure out how to run the ZZP inter cooler pump. I have a 2015 with both Aux coolers and my oem pump is the same

 

The IC pumps only have two wires? Just find which one is power and wire it up. I installed the 010 pump and had to figure out which was power but it's easy. Just turn the car on and find which wire has 12 VDC.
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Isn't the ZZP pump just an upgraded Bosch pump which flows a fairly small percentage better than the donor Bosch pumps a lot of us already installed on our cars years ago (apologies if I got that wrong - no meltdowns, please)? If so, shouldn't it get wired up the same way as the Bosch? I used the MB adapter when I installed my Bosch pump back in '17, and remember thinking it was really straightforward, although I know the XFR-S (and maybe newer cars than 2012 models?) uses a different pump than I had.

Because I recently added an additional aftermarket heat exchanger in front of my larger new Allisport supercharger radiator, I had to raise the mounting placement of my Bosch pump so I could fit the additional new heat exchanger, and it made me start thinking about doing even more... since I also added a second auxiliary radiator, I'm actually considering either switching out the Bosch for a Pierburg or potentially adding another Bosch somewhere else in the coolant flow chain. I've considered separating the engine and supercharger cooling, as it seems like an extremely simple process, but I haven't really had a chance to monitor coolant temps with my new setup, and I have nothing to benchmark against because I never monitored them before my water pump blew, but I do wonder if my Bosch pump is capable of keeping up with all of the new hardware when pushed really hard. Because I also recently installed a methanol setup, there are a lot of new variables to sort out, and I'm kind of just enjoying driving her for a few months before taking her back apart again to do more performance work which may or may not be needed. However, if I were to do more, and as great as I'm sure the ZZP pump is, if I'm going to jump up from my Bosch, I might as well go all-in on something stronger like a Pierburg. Obviously, there's a fine line between not flowing fast enough and flowing too fast, and I'd be interested in some sort of pump power/speed modulator which could be tied into temps, similar to the way fans kick in and raise RPMs. Has anyone done anything like that with H.O. supercharger coolant pumps on the Supercharged 5.0L engines?

 

Just saw your post after I posted my usual long-winded response. Yes, I think you're correct.

This thread should help clarify: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/how-do-you-wire-bosch-intercooler-pump-work-91611/

 

You make very good points about which IC pump to use and does higher flow = better cooling?
As you said until we start measuring temperatures in and out of the IC we are working in the dark somewhat too.

Yes but I thought we had someone with a later model car maybe a 2019 or 2020 that had a 3 wire IC from the factory? I may be wrong here too?
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This is me - I am the person lol.

My R-S has a 3-wire "magna" brand pump. This is unlike the previous 2-wire pump that Bosch/ZZP/MB offers for easy "upgrading". No idea if this is a 2015 & on transition or an RS thing. Thanks to Chris @ VelocityAP, he lead me to the upgraded pumps that are compatible with the newer 3-wire oem version. He also noted though that the OEM pump is MUCH BETTER than the original, or even Bosch unit.

@Reaxions it is my understanding that the 3-wire pumps are pulse-width modulated, but I do not know yet what drives the speed. My guess is it adjusts based on demand, load, etc. You can run the 3-wire without the signal I think it defaults to full duty. But that's just a guess as I have not looked into it further. Like you, I have just been trying to enjoy the car for a bit and have been tied up with other projects. I purchased the Pierburg CWA 100-3 pump under VAP's advice, and I also ordered some OEM Ford/VW connectors to make the swap "plug and play" when the time comes for install near the stock location. I just don't want to open up the cooling system for just the pump, so I am waiting for some down time so I can do my aluminum hard parts at the same time as this. the CWA pump is popular in the turbo MB and BMW cars. It's a popular upgrade for the CTS-V crowd as well.

I think it's paramount we understand the true benefit between volume, flow, and gains from changing them on our cars. But on the other hand, I can't imagine extra flow, more heat exchangers, or even divorcing the system being hurtful or reaching the point of diminishing return on these cars? Seems to be a lot of transference between whats done on other platforms, along with a lot of anecdotal but not data backed opinions on if it has helped or hurt others who have done these things. I tend to be conservative and skeptical, but If anything you could make the insurance argument in that you are over-cooling to compensate for heat soak. I would much rather see data, and I might have to be that person to get it once I get around to installing this. I am pretty sure if I get the data cable from VAP, and can get some dyno time, doing some before and after pump install pulls, and logging the correct parameters, we would hopefully see if it helps or hurts, or changes nothing. But I don't want to pay a shop labor for the pump install between pulls, so I need to find a good partner shop for this experiment

 

See post above this^

 

Hello everyone - Just a minor update:

Last week I bought a main battery from Jag ($330) and did the replacement myself. They quoted me $750 total for the main battery. I could have gone with a non OEM battery but I wanted to original label/part. Almost got the AntiGravity, but after seeing some issues others had I decided against it. I followed this procedure.

1- Charge/Maintain New Battery to ensure full power on it
2 - Park car, unlock doors, close doors, open trunk, put keys on opposite end of house.
3 - Let car sit for 25min. Prepped a bowl of baking soda water while I waited for cleaning minor corrosion on terminals
4 - Unbolted Battery, removed from tray
5 - Dipped cable ends in bowl to clean.
6 - Installed new battery.

Other Notes:
**(removed ground, then power. And installed power, then ground)**
** Did the "swap" in less than 5min, some say you need to do this quickly to avoid capacitor drain down in the modules when not using a backup battery, or SDD**

I also deleted the Aux Battery to save weight and reduce complexity. Tha@clubairth1 and @OzXFR for the insight and confidence.

Couple other small items addressed:
1) Brake fluid flush
2) Cabin air filter
3) fixed door rattle (leftover tape rolling around behind the regulator panel in the door cavity
4) Fixed speaker crackle, used electric tape between tweeter and door frame. Mysterious speakers crackle GONE!

Next on the list.... replace rear diff pinion seal, I observed some seepage/staining on the diff when I was doing a general inspection. Anyone have this done and know what I should expect to pay? Looks like the seal is rather affordable, about $45 online. But the labor requires some special tools from JLR which I am not interested in buying.

Take care!

 

Update - This week the Rear Diff Pinion Seal, and Transmission Mount were fixed. I outsourced these as I didn't have some special tools required for the pinion nut.

My transmission mount was severely collapsed, and the oem rubber contains some sort of oil/fluid filling, which you could see leaking all over the bracket that secures the mount to the chassis and the surrounding area. The off-angle result from the car may or may not have contributed to the pinion seal, either way both were replaced, and fresh fluid was gone into the diff during this process.

Part Numbers:
Rear Diff Pinion Seal : T4A48283
Rear Driveshaft bolts (6) : C2D2087
Transmission Mount Assy: C2D41711
Diff Luid: 1.25L of Ravenol "MDL"

Pictures show before and after's of the Mount's gap, and the diff leak.









Next on the Agenda, lower oil pan needs to be resealed - small engine oil leak likely from RTV failure. Will be doing this soon along with an earlier than planned oil change

I have also sourced a new CF apron bumper insert/grill for the car, since acquiring this over 2 years ago, I have been looking for an affordable replacement for my broken CF bumper, from the previous owner. It looks like the car hit a curb or other object and cracked both lower corner splitters, the CF Grill, and even bowed the bumper out a tad. Slowly getting these items addressed!

-Devin

 

Hey Devin! Great to see your still at it too. Thanks for the pictures and updates.
I knew the engine mounts were fluid filled but I did not know the transmission mount is as well. Yours certainly leaked it's guts out all over the place when it failed!
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I have the exact same car, different wheels, but the same spoiler. From everything I have been able to find, there were only 100 offered in 2015 in North America, which was the last year of production for this model. I did have a cross over plastic coolant pipe go bad. It was under the super charger, had the water pump swapped out at that time, $2500.00. Other than that its not given me any problems. And it is a beast!

 

Happy Fall - This week I had my OEM wheels refinished in the original Gloss Black. Went back and forth on a color change, or mimicking the machined finish version of the Varunas, but decided to stick with the OEM spec in case I ever sell it. If I want a different finish, I will go back to looking for aftermarket wheels. I was grateful that all wheels were true, not cracked, and repairable. The PO did a number on this wheels between curb rash and upkeep, and homemade touch up using matte paint, not gloss. I regret not doing this when I first got the car - it looks 10x better.

I also decided to try out the Gorilla black Jaguar 1pc lugs, my OEM 2pc units were getting a bit rounded on the edges and I didn't like the look of polished lugs on a black wheel.

Rear tires were at 1/32" and essentially an allusion slick, so I had those replaced and mounted at the same time. The shop that performed the wheel service also provides tinting, so I had the front windshield done in 50% ceramic, loving the new cohesive look of the car.

My new CF apron for the front ships this week, and I am currently seeking a source for replacement front corner spoilers/canards as both of mine are cracked.

Enjoy some pictures with this update, take care!

 

Very classy. Great look.

 

I need to do that to mine as well. I hate those 2 piece lug nuts. They sound like a tambourine when I hit a bump at low speed.

 

The ones you want are Gorilla part number 73138JBC (JBC = Jaguar Black Chrome).
I bought a set from Summit Racing some six years ago and they are still going strong.
Summit are still the cheapest I can find for these, see here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-73138jbc
Ignore the pic on that page it is a pic of the chrome type (73138J) not the black chrome.

 

Good suggestion from OZXFR! I also replaced the sheet metal capped OEM lug nuts with solid versions.
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the part# that Oz referenced is the exact part # I purchased from.

 

New parts arrived - need to find a place that can spray the chin spoilers in a gloss black to match the rest before I mount everything up. .








I will also be taking this opportunity to finally install my Pierburg pump for the S/C loop, since the bumper will be off. Anyone have any easy recommendations to monitor IAT before and after install?