I'm Devin - This is my XFR-S
#122
Nope haha - the CF insert is from Mina - they don't offer it on their website, but I emailed and they made me one, took 3 weeks. He said they would make more so shoot them an email and just say you saw Devins. The CF quality is spot on, only thing I noticed was the weave direction is not the same angle, if that bothers you. No idea if all the 'em ones are the same direction or not.
The chin spoilers are replicas as well, from Vehicle Revolution (Carl B.). It's what is supplied with their R-S conversion kit, but split from the kit. I could only find OEM ones online for 350-440 a piece. Im not paying that for something that I could break 1 day after install. Will try these out and see how they fit.
The chin spoilers are replicas as well, from Vehicle Revolution (Carl B.). It's what is supplied with their R-S conversion kit, but split from the kit. I could only find OEM ones online for 350-440 a piece. Im not paying that for something that I could break 1 day after install. Will try these out and see how they fit.
#125
Yes and there is more than one since we have sensors before and after the inter-coolers.
Do you get good data from this? My numbers don't seem to add up? Too high or to low so not sure how to interpret them?
I am planning on buying VAP's data acquisition tool/package but does that do stuff that I can't just using OBD parameters?
Currently I am using Torque Pro with the custom Jaguar PID add ons.
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Do you get good data from this? My numbers don't seem to add up? Too high or to low so not sure how to interpret them?
I am planning on buying VAP's data acquisition tool/package but does that do stuff that I can't just using OBD parameters?
Currently I am using Torque Pro with the custom Jaguar PID add ons.
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.
.
The following users liked this post:
DeviLSh (09-28-2023)
#126
I too want the VAP tool... But I need other things first haha.
Yesterday I plugged in my Innova scan tool (generic, but like $250 tool) into the R-S. It gave me one IAT reading, labeled as IAT (not IAT2).
It was 67-69*F yesterday during my tests. I took readings in this order, during 15min of total drive time.
At idle, warm start: 110-111*
Cruising at 45: 115-118*
40-100pull, WOT: 158* (Max observed, gradually climbed)
Post WOT pull: 113* (immediately after slowing down)
After 5min idle: 118-120*
45mph, 3rd ger, 4krpm: 133* (for about 60sec continuous hold)
Based on this test's minimum being conssitenly 40*above ambient at the baseline, I believe the IAT channel I was observing is the post intercooler/brick channel. There's no way pre-charged air (at the MAF or TB) is that hot. I am running oem intake with K&N panel filters, the aluminum intercooler, and stock tune & pulley. My cooling system is in good order and my heat exchanger, aux rads, and main rad are all un-obstructed. If the S/C bricks have shared (non-divorced setup) coolant running through them, this leads me to believe there is a minimum air temp the car is expecting and ok with. because the car otherwise behaved incredibly well - the recovery time was instant, and I only saw increased IAT's under heavy use, like the WOT pull or constant RPM cruise. The extended idle test surprised me, I thought I would see higher IAT's (to simulate staging lanes or traffic) and once the fans kick on things get under control right away.
I will be installing the Pierburg soon, and retaking these tests to the best of my ability. It will be colder by then, but I'll try to document ambient temps and compare readings as a percentage of ambient for better comparison. In a perfect world, I could log more parameters at once, or in a more controlled/repeatable setting. But I am just trying to get a rough baseline before I throw the new pump on assume its better than the stock PWM Magna on my R-S.
Yesterday I plugged in my Innova scan tool (generic, but like $250 tool) into the R-S. It gave me one IAT reading, labeled as IAT (not IAT2).
It was 67-69*F yesterday during my tests. I took readings in this order, during 15min of total drive time.
At idle, warm start: 110-111*
Cruising at 45: 115-118*
40-100pull, WOT: 158* (Max observed, gradually climbed)
Post WOT pull: 113* (immediately after slowing down)
After 5min idle: 118-120*
45mph, 3rd ger, 4krpm: 133* (for about 60sec continuous hold)
Based on this test's minimum being conssitenly 40*above ambient at the baseline, I believe the IAT channel I was observing is the post intercooler/brick channel. There's no way pre-charged air (at the MAF or TB) is that hot. I am running oem intake with K&N panel filters, the aluminum intercooler, and stock tune & pulley. My cooling system is in good order and my heat exchanger, aux rads, and main rad are all un-obstructed. If the S/C bricks have shared (non-divorced setup) coolant running through them, this leads me to believe there is a minimum air temp the car is expecting and ok with. because the car otherwise behaved incredibly well - the recovery time was instant, and I only saw increased IAT's under heavy use, like the WOT pull or constant RPM cruise. The extended idle test surprised me, I thought I would see higher IAT's (to simulate staging lanes or traffic) and once the fans kick on things get under control right away.
I will be installing the Pierburg soon, and retaking these tests to the best of my ability. It will be colder by then, but I'll try to document ambient temps and compare readings as a percentage of ambient for better comparison. In a perfect world, I could log more parameters at once, or in a more controlled/repeatable setting. But I am just trying to get a rough baseline before I throw the new pump on assume its better than the stock PWM Magna on my R-S.
#128
This week I took my new chin spoilers, the existing OEM side skirt lips, and the rear wheel well/fender aero trim pieces to a painter, and had them done up in gloss black. I will be getting these ceramic coated or PPF'd to try and preserve them, but am excited to have everything matching now. I am thinking I will like the consistency of the gloss since the lower items come matte from factory.
Looking to install these, the new CF grill, and my Pierburg in mid-late October. Have some travel, a wedding, and another project to finish first.
Looking to install these, the new CF grill, and my Pierburg in mid-late October. Have some travel, a wedding, and another project to finish first.
#130
Happy Halloween / Early November -
Oil Pan:
Last week I took care of a few items - I removed the lower oil pan / sump cover, and scraped off the old RTV, re-applied some high-temp gray RTV, and cleaned everything up. I had a very small leak coming from the back side of this seal, it was seeping onto the pan. Another reason to get under the car every once in a while and do an inspection. I was due for an oil change, so it was a great time to do a full drain and fill. It was difficult to "pop" the cover off, so I am surprised it was leaking as the seal was very tight. I am hoping I was able to keep the new RTV bead's integrity during install as there are no guide posts and you have to use both hands to get the bolts started. but all looks good after the first test drive. I was pleasantly surprised to see the pump drives, chains, and engine interior was very clean, almost ZERO grime or build up. I am at about 55k mi now.
Upgraded Intercooler Charge Pump:
Since I had the car up, I finally decided to install my upgraded intercooler pump - the Pierburg CWA-100-3. I was able to use the OEM hoses, but not the OEM mounting brackets. Using a large P-Clamp, and a piece of drilled aluminum angle, I created a vertical mounting tab that bolts into the aluminum intercooler I have on the car. This pump, like my stock pump, is a PWM pump, so it uses a 3-pin connector which is driven by the S/C Pump relay up in the engine bay fuse box, and an ECU signal wire for speed. After talking with Chris from VAP, he recommended I not install the signal/PWM wire, and run the pump in a 2-wire configuration. This would remove OEM logic compatibility issues, and allow the pump to run at 100% duty cycle. These pumps are common upgrades in the AMG, Audi, and GM applications, and running them at full capacity should not limit their useful life. I was able to lose minimal coolant during the job buy removing the front bumper, clamping the inlet/outlet hoses before removal, and being gentle with CT clamps. After the job was done, I performed a simple top off and bleed process. Using a stethoscope through the lower grill, I can confirm the pump is operating when the car is running (and it also runs for some time after shutdown, which I did not know!) Hoping to get some more data on IAT and recovery but temps have dropped a lot here in the area, so getting something comparable to what I did last month may not be feasible.
I will provide more detail and instructions in another thread for the pump alone, as I have received a lot of PM's on the topic.
Update on Bumper Parts:
its not all good news over here - the CF apron I received from Mina does not fit. It is both not the correct shape, and the design is significantly thicker than OEM. The Mina piece is a CF wrapped fiberglass parts, which is good for rigidity and strength, but the tolerances of the OEM fitment are way to tight, after sanding the tabs and trying to finesses fitment for over 5 hours - I gave up and reinstalled my original (cracked) grille for now. The Oem piece is just CF, and is very flexible, thing, and this helps it conform to its multiple mating areas and hardware locations. I have emailed Mina but they are non-responsive so far. If they don't accept a return, or compensation or install - I will likely bring this to a body shop to get their opinion, My guess is it can be trimmed and epoxy in, but I need to commit to some downtime for that, and I am not looking to spend a ton of money on body work at the moment. I still have the amplifier issue to solve on this car, and it's almost brake time! (never ends does it?)
I did however - install my painted side skirt pieces, and front chin spoilers/ canards which were sprayed in gloss black. Very subtle, but the lower portions of the car now match the upper gloss sections, and there is no longer any matte black trim on the car.
Oil Pan:
Last week I took care of a few items - I removed the lower oil pan / sump cover, and scraped off the old RTV, re-applied some high-temp gray RTV, and cleaned everything up. I had a very small leak coming from the back side of this seal, it was seeping onto the pan. Another reason to get under the car every once in a while and do an inspection. I was due for an oil change, so it was a great time to do a full drain and fill. It was difficult to "pop" the cover off, so I am surprised it was leaking as the seal was very tight. I am hoping I was able to keep the new RTV bead's integrity during install as there are no guide posts and you have to use both hands to get the bolts started. but all looks good after the first test drive. I was pleasantly surprised to see the pump drives, chains, and engine interior was very clean, almost ZERO grime or build up. I am at about 55k mi now.
Upgraded Intercooler Charge Pump:
Since I had the car up, I finally decided to install my upgraded intercooler pump - the Pierburg CWA-100-3. I was able to use the OEM hoses, but not the OEM mounting brackets. Using a large P-Clamp, and a piece of drilled aluminum angle, I created a vertical mounting tab that bolts into the aluminum intercooler I have on the car. This pump, like my stock pump, is a PWM pump, so it uses a 3-pin connector which is driven by the S/C Pump relay up in the engine bay fuse box, and an ECU signal wire for speed. After talking with Chris from VAP, he recommended I not install the signal/PWM wire, and run the pump in a 2-wire configuration. This would remove OEM logic compatibility issues, and allow the pump to run at 100% duty cycle. These pumps are common upgrades in the AMG, Audi, and GM applications, and running them at full capacity should not limit their useful life. I was able to lose minimal coolant during the job buy removing the front bumper, clamping the inlet/outlet hoses before removal, and being gentle with CT clamps. After the job was done, I performed a simple top off and bleed process. Using a stethoscope through the lower grill, I can confirm the pump is operating when the car is running (and it also runs for some time after shutdown, which I did not know!) Hoping to get some more data on IAT and recovery but temps have dropped a lot here in the area, so getting something comparable to what I did last month may not be feasible.
I will provide more detail and instructions in another thread for the pump alone, as I have received a lot of PM's on the topic.
Update on Bumper Parts:
its not all good news over here - the CF apron I received from Mina does not fit. It is both not the correct shape, and the design is significantly thicker than OEM. The Mina piece is a CF wrapped fiberglass parts, which is good for rigidity and strength, but the tolerances of the OEM fitment are way to tight, after sanding the tabs and trying to finesses fitment for over 5 hours - I gave up and reinstalled my original (cracked) grille for now. The Oem piece is just CF, and is very flexible, thing, and this helps it conform to its multiple mating areas and hardware locations. I have emailed Mina but they are non-responsive so far. If they don't accept a return, or compensation or install - I will likely bring this to a body shop to get their opinion, My guess is it can be trimmed and epoxy in, but I need to commit to some downtime for that, and I am not looking to spend a ton of money on body work at the moment. I still have the amplifier issue to solve on this car, and it's almost brake time! (never ends does it?)
I did however - install my painted side skirt pieces, and front chin spoilers/ canards which were sprayed in gloss black. Very subtle, but the lower portions of the car now match the upper gloss sections, and there is no longer any matte black trim on the car.
Last edited by DeviLSh; 11-01-2023 at 10:13 AM.
#132
Snapped this pic the other night during my follow-up test drive from the work performed. No leaks or issues, so it's time to get back underneath it and install the lower heat shield.
#133
Happy Spring - Not much to report on the car - I seemingly fixed the amplifier issue I was having (intermittent audio cutting out) - by cleaning the fiber optic cable in the trunk. So far so good. Only thing next on my agenda is to look into any suspension or brake replacements. The car has a slight wobble in the first 10-15mins, but I think that's attributed to tire temp. It's possible the front rotors are juddering or maybe lower A-arms need a refresh. But I am holding out for now until I notice stronger symptoms, car is otherwise driving great.
Will be doing a spring detail soon and hopefully bringing this out to a few local jag events this year. We sold our Sportbrake over the holidays and picked up an Audi SQ5. With me WFH we basically split daily duty on that car and I am not driving the XFR-S very much. That being said - I am thinking about letting this car go. I have listed the car on this forum, and will be creating a more formal listing in the near future, so please let me know if you, or you know anyone interested in this car. I am not going to aggressively list it, but If someone wants a well documented/cared for R-S in my spec, I would be willing to let it go and move on to a new project. I REALLY love this car, but I am ready for something new if the opportunity arises. We have this and a weekend warrior TT and it doesn't make sense to have both any longer. Just don't have the time between work and parenthood to upkeep and fully enjoy both. Would love to see someone keep going on the R-S since I am not likely taking it further.
Will be doing a spring detail soon and hopefully bringing this out to a few local jag events this year. We sold our Sportbrake over the holidays and picked up an Audi SQ5. With me WFH we basically split daily duty on that car and I am not driving the XFR-S very much. That being said - I am thinking about letting this car go. I have listed the car on this forum, and will be creating a more formal listing in the near future, so please let me know if you, or you know anyone interested in this car. I am not going to aggressively list it, but If someone wants a well documented/cared for R-S in my spec, I would be willing to let it go and move on to a new project. I REALLY love this car, but I am ready for something new if the opportunity arises. We have this and a weekend warrior TT and it doesn't make sense to have both any longer. Just don't have the time between work and parenthood to upkeep and fully enjoy both. Would love to see someone keep going on the R-S since I am not likely taking it further.
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User 42324 (04-28-2024)
#134
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