Inaccurate Gas Gauge
#1
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Ever since I purchased my used XF with 42,000 miles I have had a inaccurate gas gauge measurement. When I fill the car up the gas gauge does not indicate a full tank, yet I am unable to add more fuel. The gauge seems to be off by 1/3. The other strange thing is when I drive the car on the highway, 70 MPH, the gauge will rapidly decrease. Then after the car sits and cools off the gas gauge will return to a normal setting. I have attached pictures of the gauge at the low setting and then about an hour and half with the gauge higher without adding an gas. The other picture shows the fuel gauge after a fill up. Has anyone experienced this same problem, and if so what did you do to correct the inaccuracy?
#2
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Hi,
I currently own a 2015 XF 3.0 SC which was purchased new but my previous car was a 2012 XF 5.0 NA that was purchased as a CPO.
With my 2012 the gas gauge would move to show approx. 1/2- 3/4 tank after a fill up. After driving a few miles the gas gauge needle would slowly move up to show a full tank.
The car was still under warranty and was diagnosed as having faulty fuel sending sensors which I was informed are integrated in the saddlebag style gas tank. The remedy was a gas tank replacement with new fuel sending units. This corrected the problem.
Not sure if this is the exact problem that you are experiencing but it sounds like your problem may have something to do with the fuel sending sensors as well.
Hope this was helpful.
Ed
I currently own a 2015 XF 3.0 SC which was purchased new but my previous car was a 2012 XF 5.0 NA that was purchased as a CPO.
With my 2012 the gas gauge would move to show approx. 1/2- 3/4 tank after a fill up. After driving a few miles the gas gauge needle would slowly move up to show a full tank.
The car was still under warranty and was diagnosed as having faulty fuel sending sensors which I was informed are integrated in the saddlebag style gas tank. The remedy was a gas tank replacement with new fuel sending units. This corrected the problem.
Not sure if this is the exact problem that you are experiencing but it sounds like your problem may have something to do with the fuel sending sensors as well.
Hope this was helpful.
Ed
#3
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I'd say it's more likely to be the connectors to the sensors rather than the sensors themselves. There is a known fault with corrosion on them. I had a problem with my 2010 XF fuel gauge occasionally showing zero and then going back up and I fixed it by taking the pump out of the tank and replacing all the small black connectors with solid soldered connections. Sadly there's a connector that you can't get to on the other side of the tank but that one seems to be fine on mine.
#4
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I would start by adding a bottle of Techron at your next few fill-ups. When I bought my C5 Corvette I had a similar problem. It would read empty for awhile when I filled up and a couple of times it dropped down to read empty (which it basically was) when moments earlier it read 1/4 full. This is a common problem with that car and after running some Techron through the system and only filling up with Shell gas from there on out my problem has not returned in 7 years. There are a few brands that put cleaning additives in their fuel, Shell being the largest. Make sure to read the bottle first. I think you want the tank to be pretty low and depending on the size of your fuel tank you may need 2 bottles each fill-up. Give it a try and report back.
#5
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I would start by adding a bottle of Techron at your next few fill-ups. When I bought my C5 Corvette I had a similar problem. It would read empty for awhile when I filled up and a couple of times it dropped down to read empty (which it basically was) when moments earlier it read 1/4 full. This is a common problem with that car and after running some Techron through the system and only filling up with Shell gas from there on out my problem has not returned in 7 years. There are a few brands that put cleaning additives in their fuel, Shell being the largest. Make sure to read the bottle first. I think you want the tank to be pretty low and depending on the size of your fuel tank you may need 2 bottles each fill-up. Give it a try and report back.
As to the brand of fuel, it is true that for many people brand loyalty reaches the level of religious belief, and this is fine for them. ALL brands of gasoline that you have heard of, and the large majority of those you have not heard of, use detergent additives, and formulations for all of the so-called "top tier" gasolines are nearly identical in the same location in the same season of the year. Shell is not "the largest" and no better nor worse than any other brand in this regard.
#6
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Firstly, please do not compare these fine motorcars with the stuff slapped together by General Motors, no matter the selling price. The problem is most likely with the sending units, a known issue. Secondly, while I have used Chevron Techron additives for a number of years with several of my cars, it is by no means a magic panacea. It will do nothing to help a bad sending unit or electrical connector. .
????
I detect somewhat of an attitude problem here!! I've had my Corvette since 2001, and my wife has had her XF since 2009. The mileage on these cars is similar. Although somewhat minor, up until now, there have been more issues with the Jag than the Corvette......
Having said that, a couple of weeks ago, a fuel gauge issue has reared it's ugly head on her XF. The gauge won't read more that 3/8 full, no matter how much fuel is in the tank. The dealer had it last week, for a look-see, and couldn't find anything wrong. Magically, the gauge worked OK for two days after that, and crapped out again yesterday.
With respect to the Chevron Techron, it appears that for some reason, the sending units in C-5, and possibly C-6 Corvettes are sensitive to chemical contents in certain brands of gasoline. More specifically, it's the sulfur content that's the problem. It's a PROVEN fact that Techron "cleans" the sulfur from these contacts.
#7
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#8
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I think there might be, but the only information I could dig up was it applied to 2010-2013 models. Mine is a 2009.
I'm supposed to drop my car off at the dealer this afternoon, so they can take another shot at diagnosing the fuel gauge problem. I would have had it back last week, but since I had just filled the tank when the gauge started acting up for the second time, I thought I'd burn off some of the gas, so we're not having to mess with a car that has a full tank.
Wouldn't you know, after NOT working properly for a week, the gauge decides to start reading somewhat accurately again, yesterday.....
#9
#10
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I sure wish I could find a TSB in order to "discuss" my problem with Jaguar corporate. My car is currently at the dealer, and they said they diagnosed it as bad fuel level senders, which require replacing the main fuel pump, as well as the secondary "jet pump", in the LH side of the tank. Furthermore, parts aren't in stock, or available locally. They have to be shipped in, most likely from "Jag Central" in New Jersey. Hopefully, I'll have it back by Friday, assuming the predicted blizzard on the east coast doesn't slow the delivery.
I'm looking at something like $1200, before all is said and done.
(would have cost about HALF that, if it was a Chevy, and parts would have been more readily available...............)
#11
#12
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#14
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I located the TSB on line, TSB #JTB-00301-NAS1, Fuel System, Other: Storage: Fuel Gauge System. I called my local Jaguar dealer and ask about this TSB being covered under warranty and was told that it is not. I guess I will just have to live with an inaccurate gas gauge.
Audrey Scolny
1-800-452-4827
I've had an excellent experience with her at fixing a problem...
#15
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And yes, I could have shopped an "indy shop", but in my area, the only one I would have trusted, Craig Autometrics, closed 3 years ago, when the owner retired.....
#16
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Here's the TSB. I would say though, when I repaired this I didn't use crimp connections as per the TSB, primarily because I couldn't see anything wrong with the existing crimp connections I was removing but they were obviously at fault, but I feared the same "fretting corrosion" could occur with replacement connections. I removed the sender from the tank completely and soldered the connections, covering them afterwards with shrink wrap. Also, you'd better hope your fault is with either the sender or the connections on the side of the tank you can actually access. The other side cannot be accessed without (I assume) drilling into the tank so the repair is a (rather costly) replacement tank.
Finally, I can't recommend the fuel tank sender removal tool enough. If you need the relevant service manual pages for removing the fuel sender let me know.
Finally, I can't recommend the fuel tank sender removal tool enough. If you need the relevant service manual pages for removing the fuel sender let me know.
Last edited by davetibbs; 01-24-2016 at 12:46 AM.
#17
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Well, I've got the car back, and so far, the gas gauge is working in the normal fashion. The dealer replaced both the fuel pump itself in the RH side of the tank, as well as the sender/secondary "jet pump", in the LH side of the tank, along with the gaskets and retaining rings for both assemblies.
They were gracious enough to find a couple of "service coupons" they could apply to the bill, so the total was $1120, tax included. The labor charge was $285, the tax $83, and the remainder was for the parts.
At least on the MY 2009s, there are two "mounting ports" in the fuel tank, with the appropriate "access ports" in the rear of the floor pan.
They were gracious enough to find a couple of "service coupons" they could apply to the bill, so the total was $1120, tax included. The labor charge was $285, the tax $83, and the remainder was for the parts.
At least on the MY 2009s, there are two "mounting ports" in the fuel tank, with the appropriate "access ports" in the rear of the floor pan.
#18
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Well, I've got the car back, and so far, the gas gauge is working in the normal fashion. The dealer replaced both the fuel pump itself in the RH side of the tank, as well as the sender/secondary "jet pump", in the LH side of the tank, along with the gaskets and retaining rings for both assemblies.
They were gracious enough to find a couple of "service coupons" they could apply to the bill, so the total was $1120, tax included. The labor charge was $285, the tax $83, and the remainder was for the parts.
At least on the MY 2009s, there are two "mounting ports" in the fuel tank, with the appropriate "access ports" in the rear of the floor pan.
They were gracious enough to find a couple of "service coupons" they could apply to the bill, so the total was $1120, tax included. The labor charge was $285, the tax $83, and the remainder was for the parts.
At least on the MY 2009s, there are two "mounting ports" in the fuel tank, with the appropriate "access ports" in the rear of the floor pan.
A further update.....
I purposely ran the tank down, so the tech working on the car wasn't bathing in fuel, and was also less likely to splash gas inside my car, as he removed the pump. So when I got the car back, the gauge was reading 1/4 tank, which was appropriate, and just to ensure the gauge would read an addition of fuel, I put in $20 worth, on the way home from the dealer. The gauge responded accordingly.
Several days later, I decided to fill it up, and sure enough, the gauge reading on the dashboard, read just over 3/4 of a tank. We drove it for several days, to burn off some fuel, and I filled it up again. Again, the gauge stalled out at the same point.
The car is back at the dealer, and they tell me that the jet pump they installed is defective. Another one is on order, and should be in tomorrow....
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StealthPilot
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