Hi all,

I have a 2009 XF-S 3.0 Diesel (ie first gen) UK car. The information panel between the speedo and tacho every so often goes so dim it can barely be read. After a while it comes back on and all is well. This doesn't affect any of the blue backlighting, and all of it dims/brightens with the thumbwheel as it should.

It seems like there is a faulty backlight in my cluster. Two questions:

1. Anyone else had this, and how did you fix it?
2. Could someone let me know how to remove the cluster on an XF - I don't want to damage any trim.

Thanks folks!

 

https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?...AF40HoTPSWKFis


that's a link to the 2008 workshop manual. that will tell you how to take everything apart and also contains other useful information. credit goes to someone on another forum who posted the link. cant remember exactly who as had this saved in my favourites for a while


in regards to the fault I don't think ive ever come across anyone having that issue

 

Many thanks for the link - very helpful (have downloaded the document!).

Looking in another set of clocks I got hold of very cheaply, I notice there are a handful of surface mount aluminium electrolytic capacitors - I plan to replace these in my cluster and see if that makes a difference to the symptoms - will report back!

 

Checked the caps - they are all in spec. (Capacitance and ESR). It looks like I'll have to swap the cluster and reprogram, as the remaining surface mount components would need a re-work station to fiddle with

 

So, bitten the bullet and swapped the cluster.

The XF key fobs have two systems: the first is what Jag call a 'passive' system - the RF part of your fob, which does keyless start (the receiver is in the roof lighting panel at the front), opening and closing doors etc. This system links with the keyless vehicle module KVM (not the cluster), and is endlessly reprogrammable. This is what auto electricians do, and you can reprogram used keys off 'the auction site' like this.

The second system is what they call the 'active' system (seems the other way round to me, but hey), and involves the fob transponder. This is for if your fob battery goes flat or there's too much RF interference, and you put your key in the dash reader by your knee. When a key is new from Jag, it is supplied in a 'default' condition. During key programming using SDD a newly created secret code is shared between the cluster and fob, and the fob is put on the cluster's 'key chain'. The key is now associated with that cluster and can't be reprogrammed UNLESS... you dis-associate that key from the cluster with 'erase keys' WHILE THE KEYS ARE PRESENT. This deletes the key from the cluster's key chain and resets the fob back to 'default' mode.

If you do this without the key being present, it is not put back into default mode, and as the key's secret code is no longer in the cluster, the key is said to be 'orphaned' and you can't ever salvage the active function on that fob.

So, procedure in SDD involves unprogramming your keys from the old cluster, replace cluster, re-initialise the immobiliser, delete any keys off the old cluster (with them present if someone has included them in the sale), re-program your existing keys. Mileage will need correcting, as my old cluster was on 81k and the new on 43k.

New cluster works perfectly.

BW
Fletch

 

Just to set the record straight for re-setting the mileage on a swapped cluster. You can't. Well, that's not strictly true, but it isn't simple.

SDD has an 'odometer calibration' menu, which requires coded access. There are sites that sell use-once codes, and programs that generate them (that have to be topped up with 'tokens' one of which is used up every time you need a code). Don't waste your time with this - if the mileage on your cluster is not zero, SDD will not reprogram it. That means that the dealer wouldn't be able do it for you either, even if they were inclined to do so. Many of the Jag techs are not certain about this, as they don't usually entertain fitting second hand parts.

Another option is to get one of these 'odometer correction' chappies to fiddle with your cluster. They essetially hook up a programmer to the EEPROM on the cluster's PCB, read out the serial data on it, alter the mileage (which is in hexadecimal, and is encoded), then write back the new file. Heaven help you if it goes wrong.

The problem with this approach is that the car always reports a VIN mismatch (between all the other car modules which have your original VIN and your new cluster, which adopted its donor-car VIN when it was first installed in the donor car). That is even if you have your mileage altered. I was quoted at £100-£150 just for the mileage.

I have finally got around this limitation by moving the "24C64WQ" surface-mount 8-leg 64 kbit EEPROM from the broken cluster PCB, and installing it in your new cluster. This transplants your old cluster's identity, and mileage to the new cluster.

As you look at the PCB of your cluster you will see a square microprocessor (the biggest chip on the board). At 6 o'clock to it, close by, is the crystal oscillator, in a small oval metal can. At 9 o'clock is the EEPROM, labelled IC201. That's the chip you need to move.

** DISCLAIMER **
Don't blame me if you wreck it. These parts are small and delicate. Too small for a soldering iron. Get an SMD rework station off a well-known auction site for £50, with a fine nozzle. Heat the legs and lift off with tweezers. Fitting is the reverse. Don't try it if you're no good at soldering!

And voila. Your VINs all match and your mileage is transferred. If you had actually been using your new cluster prior to doing the EEPROM swap, note that you'll have to de-program your keys before you start, swap the chip, un-immobilise your car, and reprogram your keys.

Hope this is helpful to some adventurous types who enjoy tinkering!

Fletch