intake manifold/plenum removal
#2
everything is a PITA to access. yes, most likely you're spotting the fuel line. there are flare compression joints either side. hard to see, let alone loosen with a crow's foot open end wrench. i have s/c 5.0 engine, so likely different than yours. i disconnected from fuel rail on driver's side and VERY carefully bent the fuel line up and out of the way to take my manifold apart, not disturbing the pass side as it looked worse to me for access. you may want to pay for / download the shop manual for your car.
#3
thanks Adam J, i completed the job, was not as difficult as i imagined. removing the fuel rail was easy after i moved the decorative rubber cover. crow foot wrench did the trick, loosened both sides and removed crossover fuel line from vehicle. replaced cracked coolant tube. now i'm back on the road with peace of mind.
#4
There's a number of plastic pipe fittings that are all under the same temperature torture just waiting to fail. If you replaced 1 plastic coolant tube, it's just a matter of time before the next one goes. The one in the rear is the real pain to replace, but I did it on both cars before they failed (along with all the plastic piping) because a number of people have had that pipe fail. Even the coolant header tank is known to go, and the little tubes coming out of my header tank were completely brittle and cracked in my hands while doing the work. If one of those little tubes cracks, you lose coolant system pressure and can easily overheat the engine, which gets expensive.
Better to replace it all at once, and better to do it before it fails.
#5
Yes, and no.
There's a number of plastic pipe fittings that are all under the same temperature torture just waiting to fail. If you replaced 1 plastic coolant tube, it's just a matter of time before the next one goes. The one in the rear is the real pain to replace, but I did it on both cars before they failed (along with all the plastic piping) because a number of people have had that pipe fail. Even the coolant header tank is known to go, and the little tubes coming out of my header tank were completely brittle and cracked in my hands while doing the work. If one of those little tubes cracks, you lose coolant system pressure and can easily overheat the engine, which gets expensive.
Better to replace it all at once, and better to do it before it fails.
There's a number of plastic pipe fittings that are all under the same temperature torture just waiting to fail. If you replaced 1 plastic coolant tube, it's just a matter of time before the next one goes. The one in the rear is the real pain to replace, but I did it on both cars before they failed (along with all the plastic piping) because a number of people have had that pipe fail. Even the coolant header tank is known to go, and the little tubes coming out of my header tank were completely brittle and cracked in my hands while doing the work. If one of those little tubes cracks, you lose coolant system pressure and can easily overheat the engine, which gets expensive.
Better to replace it all at once, and better to do it before it fails.
Once I've finished the rebuild I'm seriously considering cutting my old one in half down the original join and having the two halves laser-scanned so it could be 3D printed as a single piece
#6
Great advice for anyone taking the inlet manifold off or just wanting to do preventative maintenance. That rear pipe is an absolute pig to get to at the best of times. I have a brand new one to go on my rebuilt engine but even that is clearly just two separate halves plastic welded (?) together so I figure it will probably have to be replaced again in a few years.
Once I've finished the rebuild I'm seriously considering cutting my old one in half down the original join and having the two halves laser-scanned so it could be 3D printed as a single piece
Once I've finished the rebuild I'm seriously considering cutting my old one in half down the original join and having the two halves laser-scanned so it could be 3D printed as a single piece
I completely expect to sell both of these XFs before they are due for another replacement because it is a very painful job.
Last edited by lotusespritse; 05-30-2018 at 10:38 AM.
#7
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#8
Great advice for anyone taking the inlet manifold off or just wanting to do preventative maintenance. That rear pipe is an absolute pig to get to at the best of times. I have a brand new one to go on my rebuilt engine but even that is clearly just two separate halves plastic welded (?) together so I figure it will probably have to be replaced again in a few years.
Once I've finished the rebuild I'm seriously considering cutting my old one in half down the original join and having the two halves laser-scanned so it could be 3D printed as a single piece
Once I've finished the rebuild I'm seriously considering cutting my old one in half down the original join and having the two halves laser-scanned so it could be 3D printed as a single piece
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