Intermittent starting problem
#1
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I just got a phone call from my unhappy wife. Her 2013 XF 3.0 cranks but will not start. Then, 3 minutes later another call, it started right up. We have had this problem, occasionally, for about 5 weeks but only 4 times. First thing I did was replace the battery and the car started and ran fine. But then it happened again about a week later. Each time a jump fired it up immediately. Today a jump was not necessary.
No CEL and the dealer found nothing either. I'm beginning to suspect a a loose or failing electrical component. Could someone offer a suggestion on what parts I should check. Again, it only happens once in a while and eventually will start. All accessories work and starter cranks but engine will not start.
No CEL and the dealer found nothing either. I'm beginning to suspect a a loose or failing electrical component. Could someone offer a suggestion on what parts I should check. Again, it only happens once in a while and eventually will start. All accessories work and starter cranks but engine will not start.
Last edited by raschwar; 04-03-2018 at 04:50 PM.
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James Session Jr. (05-04-2021)
#2
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#5
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Since the original post the dealer has replaced the fuel pump, problem not fixed, and a module, still not fixed. Since they apparently don't know what the source of the issue is I'm asking if anyone has this problem and what was done to correct it.
Most of the time everything is fine i.e. the car starts immediately and runs beautifully. On occasion it will not start; the ignition turns on, the starter cranks but the engine will not fire. After waiting a couple of minutes it starts. Usually it's fine after that but sometimes feels down on performance and may cut out or stall.
Any info is appreciated.
Most of the time everything is fine i.e. the car starts immediately and runs beautifully. On occasion it will not start; the ignition turns on, the starter cranks but the engine will not fire. After waiting a couple of minutes it starts. Usually it's fine after that but sometimes feels down on performance and may cut out or stall.
Any info is appreciated.
#6
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#9
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Look for the threat on replacing the fuel filter on top of the tank. It needs to be replaced anyway after 5-6 years, and it has electrical connections built in that can get corroded and cause intermittent fuel pump issues.
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Madgo (04-15-2019)
#10
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hi all, i’ve just joined as i was reading the intermittent starting faults people are having. i’ve owned my 3.0d xf for around 3 years and encountered quite a few faults with it. one being the intermittent starting fault described above, where the engine starts and runs perfectly for weeks or days then for no reason will crank and not fire.
the cause of this fault is a sticking throttle body. this is a motorised valve which sits on the top of the engine in all the heat. its a plastic housing with a metal flap inside, poor design doomed to failure. it’s normally open but occasionally on shutting off the engine the flap will close and jam shut stopping any air entering the engine. the more cynical of us may believe that the ecu is programmed to instigate this fault thereby draining our wallets by forcing us to attend the ***********s repeatedly . tapping the top of the housing with a screwdriver handle will release the flap in the housing and get you on your way.
the easiest long term cheap fix is to remove the engine cover and sling it in the boot. i’m sure the fact that it traps all the heat around the housing causes it to distort and jam the flap.
hope this helps someone.
the cause of this fault is a sticking throttle body. this is a motorised valve which sits on the top of the engine in all the heat. its a plastic housing with a metal flap inside, poor design doomed to failure. it’s normally open but occasionally on shutting off the engine the flap will close and jam shut stopping any air entering the engine. the more cynical of us may believe that the ecu is programmed to instigate this fault thereby draining our wallets by forcing us to attend the ***********s repeatedly . tapping the top of the housing with a screwdriver handle will release the flap in the housing and get you on your way.
the easiest long term cheap fix is to remove the engine cover and sling it in the boot. i’m sure the fact that it traps all the heat around the housing causes it to distort and jam the flap.
hope this helps someone.
#11
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Hi
Many thanks for this I will get the throttle body looked at this week.
My car had been ok for a few weeks but this this weekend has gone back into the same problem mode.
Crank no start
Sometimes fires but no power stall when you press accelerator down.
So this all makes sense now.Fortunately I have not spent big dollars so far so I am thinking I might start by replacing the throttle body assembly.
Cheers I will let you all know how I go.
Many thanks for this I will get the throttle body looked at this week.
My car had been ok for a few weeks but this this weekend has gone back into the same problem mode.
Crank no start
Sometimes fires but no power stall when you press accelerator down.
So this all makes sense now.Fortunately I have not spent big dollars so far so I am thinking I might start by replacing the throttle body assembly.
Cheers I will let you all know how I go.
#12
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Mechanic says it is not throttle body.
This week the car is starting and running starved of power.Then I go through the turn off get out lock unlock routine.
It then fires and runs perfectly.Sometimes takes multiple tries.
Frustrated and have no idea what to do next apart from selling the car !
This week the car is starting and running starved of power.Then I go through the turn off get out lock unlock routine.
It then fires and runs perfectly.Sometimes takes multiple tries.
Frustrated and have no idea what to do next apart from selling the car !
#13
#14
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I have been thinking about the battery causing issues .
I have had the car since it was new and could not remember it being replaced.
So I checked and sure enough Varta battery stamped week 29 of 2008.
Maybe my battery is causing some issues clearly you would think it must be on the way out given its age.
Any thoughts ?
Maybe not enough power from battery to fire the starter and fuel pump etc on initial startup ?
The car would not start today cranked but no fire.A colder morning In Melbourne but far from freezing.
Came home this evening fired on 3rd attempt after cycling on off and getting out of car and back in lock unlock process.(this process did not work this morning)
So new battery ???
I have had the car since it was new and could not remember it being replaced.
So I checked and sure enough Varta battery stamped week 29 of 2008.
Maybe my battery is causing some issues clearly you would think it must be on the way out given its age.
Any thoughts ?
Maybe not enough power from battery to fire the starter and fuel pump etc on initial startup ?
The car would not start today cranked but no fire.A colder morning In Melbourne but far from freezing.
Came home this evening fired on 3rd attempt after cycling on off and getting out of car and back in lock unlock process.(this process did not work this morning)
So new battery ???
#16
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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It's an 11 year old battery, waaaaaay past retirement age for a Jag!
A rule of thumb I use is for a flooded cell lead acid battery (which yours will be) chuck and replace after four years and for an AGM battery chuck and replace after six years.
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Madgo (06-26-2019)
#17
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Ok battery now replaced .
All good until later that night car started but no revs increase on throttle and eventually stalled.
Did this about 3 or 4 times and then fired and engine could be reved.I was doing the on off key routine that eventually gets it going.
Back to my mechanic today for routine service etc.
Pulled up 3 codes:
Intermittant fuel pump issues
Low pressure at fuel rail
Speed limiter sensor error
So it does look to me as though I will now go ahead and replace the fuel pump and my mechanic says maybe we do the fuel pressure sensor at the same time.
No idea what the last error is about ?
All good until later that night car started but no revs increase on throttle and eventually stalled.
Did this about 3 or 4 times and then fired and engine could be reved.I was doing the on off key routine that eventually gets it going.
Back to my mechanic today for routine service etc.
Pulled up 3 codes:
Intermittant fuel pump issues
Low pressure at fuel rail
Speed limiter sensor error
So it does look to me as though I will now go ahead and replace the fuel pump and my mechanic says maybe we do the fuel pressure sensor at the same time.
No idea what the last error is about ?
#18
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Latest update.
I have now had the fuel pressure regulator(transducer) replaced .Prior to this the car would not start at all for about 3 days then fired one morning and I drove to my mechanics shop.
This was not an expensive item.
So far no problem post replacement.Car is now firing first crank (which it has done for the 10 plus years prior to these problems!)
No codes registered after replacement.so far.
I have now had the fuel pressure regulator(transducer) replaced .Prior to this the car would not start at all for about 3 days then fired one morning and I drove to my mechanics shop.
This was not an expensive item.
So far no problem post replacement.Car is now firing first crank (which it has done for the 10 plus years prior to these problems!)
No codes registered after replacement.so far.
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StuG (07-30-2019)