Hi all, I have a 2012 xfr with about 85k miles on her. I had it in the garage a few months, then took it on a drive. While on the freeway about an hour into my drive, I put my foot into the peddle to enjoy that whine of the supercharger. At about 90, the car when into limp mode. I was about 10 min from home so drove it the remainder of the way. In limp mode, it would not accelerate well, smoked a bit and smelled like gas. The gas smell was very apparent when I got into the garage and turned her off. I have a basic scanner and it read a P0300 code I believe. It will start up but the issues remains. Just wondering if there might be some things I can take a look at before I get her towed to the dealer to get looked at. I can turn a wrench but other then that, I'm best to take it in. So thought I would post us here to see if anyone might def more knowledgeable then me might have a better idea on what I might check out.

thanks

 

My 2013 XFR did the same thing getting on the freeway and punching the accelerator. Engine suddenly lost power and ran very rough. The smell of gas suddenly filled the cabin. Smoke started to come out of the exhaust. I was also almost home and babied the car at low speed to my driveway. Had it towed to the dealership the next day. Still making a lot of white billowing smoke. Very rough.
the cause: failed fuel injector! Got the car back and she ran great again. Had a little remnant of some fuel smell but that went away after a few drives around town. Not cheap to fix!! Good luck!

 

Probably failed injector. One or more. As posted above. Consider changing all injectors and plugs as it's not an easy job so you don't want to have to repeat it!
It can be done DIY and we have numerous threads on that repair BUT it's a hard one!
.
.
.

 

thank you both for the reply. Is there a way to be sure it is the injectors? I'd hate to roll through a repair myself and it not be it. What were your costs if I may ask? I did a quick search and looks to be around 3/400 dollars per injector?

 

Your symptoms are the key. If you scan most of the time you only get miss fires and usually a number of cylinders miss firing at the same time. The white smoke out the tail pipes is another big clue. But no you won't get anything that says bad injectors please change them now.

One other thing to consider and I am working on this right now is the amount of counterfeit parts is huge! Plus Jaguar is so expensive that it's hard to justify the price difference?

My 5.0L SC takes Jaguar C2D45736 fuel injector. I do see them for around $90 each which is a very good price! Are these legit? I think so but there's such a big difference in price?
Jaguar Injector

From Jaguar they are $365 each.
OEM Injectors

Another option which I am doing now is to send your factory injectors off to be tested and flow balanced? Somewhere around $35 for each injector.
InjectorRX

I would also change the plugs as your right there and have most of the stuff out of the way. Labor is the biggest cost because after you get down to it it's a simple repair.

Try not to drive very far when the car is in this condition because the engine is pumping a lot of gas into the converters and it won't take long to ruin one or both of them. This also puts gas in the oil so after you get the engine running properly be sure and do an oil change.
.
.
.

 

Huge difference in price and when you need 8, that adds up quick..

I'll prob by the OEMs just to lessen the risk I think.

Labor is gonna be twice that at the dealershit I am speculating. Maybe 7/9 grand. Then add oil change and plugs. lol .

Ill need to back it out of the garage and reverse it in to give this a go. So just a small amount of driving I'll need to do.

Got any recommendations on good videos or how to. I did a few searches and nothing really good caught my eye that I could follow along with.

 

Thought I would post this as I find it quite interesting. Bought the car and it had the dealer sticker in the glovebox.

 

I use the TheRock88 videos he is a DIY guy and is NOT pumping a commercial Youtube channel!!

Here is a list of the DIY stuff he has done. These are VERY useful! Look at his coil and plug change to get you started and there are many others out there too. I looked at a bunch BUT I have an 2014 XJR and while the actual repair is identical across all 5.0L engines how you access stuff changes with the car model involved.

DIY Threads

I do recommend that you start off by removing the wipers and the cowling around them. I had to use a puller to get the wipers off the shaft. Remove the strut tower braces too and they are easy.

We had this style of tool posted a while ago and I got it but it did not fit? The cut out was not deep enough so the center threaded rod did not push on the center of the arm.





I used this one and the wipers came off with a loud pop!








Also remove the under body cover and get the car on ramps at least. As always I sure miss my lift! I also use a number of bungee straps to hold wiring/tubing out of the way.



I removed the top tank the first time but figured out a way to keep it back out of the way to avoid unhooking it. I ran the rubber bungee back behind the spoke on the rim.




That small amount of driving won't be a problem and glad the car still moves too.

I have been talking to the legendary Brutal (Jaguar Tech) and got several tricks which REALLY helped! To bad I did NOT talk to him BEFORE I had already taken it all apart on my own! The manuals are pure Jaguar fantasy because they conveniently just remove the engine to show you what needs to be removed. Of course with the engine in place the reality is MUCH different!

Do you have a manual? They do help fill in the details even though they are hard to use.

1. Consider if removing the secondary bulkheads is something you want to fight? It does help to get you a good bit more room mainly for access to the rear of the engine but getting them in and out was a bloody painful job. Here is the first trick?

The engine motor mounts are a simple stud pointing straight down. Remove the 2 nuts and use a piece of wood on your floor jack and CAREFULLY jack the engine up using the oil pan. Place the jack so you can get the engine to tilt slightly. You won't gain much just lifting the engine straight up because the plugs/injectors are installed at an angle and the more tilt you can get on the engine the more the that angle becomes a straight shot. The engine was tight and the jack was raising the entire car. I had to get my wife on the jack handle while I wiggled the engine as the studs came up and out. Probably will require a bit of wiggling to get them back in the holes too. This is CRITICAL on the passenger side as I was able to get to the drivers side OK with the engine in place.

I was able to pull all 4 injectors and the fuel rail out in one go on the drivers side! Surprisingly I pulled all 4 injectors from the engine by hand using the fuel rail. Be aware that many have spent days getting the injectors out of the engine and I was prepared for the worse. Be sure and have the Jaguar service tools. Many copies out there so the prices are pretty cheap. Get the slide hammer AND both the seal sizing tool and the seal expanding tool.





2. Next trick I got is use brass brushes to clean the injector bores out BEFORE putting the injectors back in. I have added another suggestion and that is blasting compressed air through the spark plug holes while turning the brass brush. A surprising amount of crud was blown back out of the injector port that otherwise would have fallen into the cylinder and then you can try to vacuum it out. You will need a 12mm compression tester adapter which I had to buy for about $7.

Brass brushes are around $25 for a set. Need a big one for the body of the injector and small one for the tip.

Surprisingly I did not have the right spark plug socket either? Need a 14mm socket. I had this but with the deep plug wells on this engine I wanted one that would hold the plug so I can take it in and out without it falling out of the socket. Only $10.




Here is my air adapter set up. I push my rubber tipped air nozzle into the pipe and blast air while running the brass brush up and down the injector port.




As always access is tight and my 90 degree drill was a big help. You can see my air adapter in the bottom of the picture. A bit hard to see.




I won't get into the injectors seals or removing the injectors because that is very well documented in many places.

Jaguar wants you to use a special and expensive tool which is just a set threaded bolts with the heads cut off when re-installing the fuel rail. Forget that and install all 4 bolts gently and evenly. DO NOT loosen or tighten those bolts one at a time. Always tighten those bolts a bit at a time so the rail pushes the injectors down evenly. Tip? After you have pushed the injectors in by hand as far as you can and before you put the fuel rail on. GENTLY take a wooden hammer handle and lightly tap the top of the injector to seat it.

No lube on the injector! Slightly oil the O-rings at the top of the injectors AND the bottom of the fuel rail where they seat.

The engine has thick rubber covers over the coils/injectors and they are a bear to remove and install. Again Brutal has provided a trick to help. Shave down several of the bumps on the back side to ease installation.

This is the back of the drivers side rubber pad. Brutal circled in black the bumps to shave down a bit. Don't remove them all the way. The red circles are where the alignment pins fit holding the cover in place.



Here is the passenger side rubber pad. Again labeled as the above drivers side pad. Note the passenger side has only one alignment pin.




I used my small belt sander to reduce the thickness. The white dots are a guide to where I needed to grind.





Are you planning to attack the rear water manifold and/or the Symposer stuff? If so then I think you will need to remove both secondary bulkheads. I removed almost all of the symposer stuff. Just left the electrical plug attached to the vacuum solenoid and I plugged the vacuum port that went to the Symposer. Replaced the rear water manifold with the metal version and installed VAP's Symposer block off plate. It's a bit expensive for what it is but very nicely made!

My suggestion here is a very small ratchet wrench because there is just no access at the rear of the engine. Unlike the F-Type guys as their hoods open from the front so the back of the engine is much more open. This one is cheap and seems good?
VIM HBR4 only about $25 too. Price has gone up a good bit since I got mine.

Hope this is not too long and post back with questions if things are not clear. There are some somewhat hidden clips on those secondary bulk heads that I could not even see but after more fights I did and was able to re-install the bulkheads. I hope to never remove them again!
.
.
.

 

Thank you for an awesome post, 1st of the month and time to buy some parts to get ready for this.

Buying may parts getting plugs and coil in addition to the injectors. Since I'm there might as well replace them also I think.
Coils and plugs
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...spare-c2z18619
injectors and clamps
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...0298kt#fitment

one thing I read or heard was there could be damage in the cat also. How would I tell if that was needing replacement also?


thanks again I'll try to post as I go along.

 

Can't go wrong replacing those items! I put in new plugs but left the coils alone. I am about where you are right now. I still get a P0430 which is a bad cat on the drivers side BUT it's taking more and more miles before the code is set. Will it clear up? I don't know yet.
I have been running Cataclean as a last ditch effort and can't say one way or another if it helped anything?

So I would do what you plan and then get all the codes cleared and see what the car does. I will say my car is running better than ever since I had the factory injectors cleaned and looked at. You might get lucky and and the cat could be OK?

FCP is for sure an OEM supplier. I think one of my problems was buying on EBay? The parts looked fine but the injectors seemed to cause problems and my tuner and a Jaguar mechanic both pointed to those injectors as possible counterfeit parts. One clue is they have all the correct factory markings and part numbers BUT they are missing the stylized H that stands for Hella who now owns Bosch. I compromised after my problems and sent my factory injectors off to be reworked.

I did not send back those injectors because I still am not sure they were the problem. So I will just eat that cost as part of my "Stupid Tax" that I pay with some regularity!

Yes please post back as we all want to see pictures and I constantly pick up little tricks and suggestions from other's repairs. I just got a good one to replace the water hose coming off the rear water manifold on the passengers side with one that is simpler and cheaper. This is cooling line with the air bleed port in it. Looks like Jaguar redesigned it and instead of $180-$200 part that hose is now around $60-$70! But the big plus with this item is Jaguar eliminated the hugely difficult metal bracket that bolts to the back of the block and is nearly impossible to remove or replace and I have done that twice now!

Part number T2H3431. That is a really strange part number for Jaguar too so I think things have changed in how they assign part numbers. Fit's all 5.0L engines and maybe others?
.
.
.

 

Parts have been ordered and will arrive on Monday. I spent just over $1500 USD on them from FCP. Injector kit, coil kit, oil filter and oil. I spent about 500 more on Amazon for misc still. a oil changer pump, the recommended brass brushes, the o-ring reducer thing, the puller, and some lights and things. I should have everything else but can def order more. So far just over 2k into this. I'll be starting the removal of everything maybe Friday. More to come here.

 

Just had to turn the car around in the garage for better access but here are the code for anyone wondering. Puff of white smoke when started but that went away, still smelled like gas and was running very ruff also still in performance reduced mode.

Codes are P0302, P0304, P0306, P0308, P0300, & P0316

Then all the codes again with a p after them so 12 in total

There is not a ton of space under the hood so first order of business will be to try and deal with all the things in the way. Def will need to remove the wipers and cowls and things and move the coolant tank out of the way and then the fuse box is in the way so I'll have to figure that one out also.

Ill post up some pic or vids as I push through this lol.

 

Yes the problems look to be on the drivers side?

You mentioned the Teflon ring sizing tool? I found several things that make this WAY easier! First as is well known Teflon cold flows unlike an O-ring made out of rubber which compresses and springs back. What that means is the Teflon is slow to change in size. I hope you also got the expansion tool with the sizing tool? They are usually sold together with the fuel injector slide hammer.

Many versions of this out so not necessary to use the factory tools. My kit was $70 or so.

If installing the Teflon ring first let it soak in boiling water for 5 minutes or so. Now the Teflon will slide up and over the cone shaped tool onto the injector. But the ring will be too large and not fit tight on the injector body. This is where the sizing tool comes in. It's labeled 1 and 2 on each end. You start with 1 and finish with 2. Again remember the cold flow of Teflon! Do NOT jam the sizing tool over the Teflon rings! This will smear the Teflon and you can see that when the sizing tool is removed. You do not want that to happen!

As you push the sizing tool on the injector it will be tight so stop there and let the tool with the injector in it rest a bit so the Teflon will compress. Then remove and install 1 again pushing it a bit farther this time. It will still be tight so stop before you push too hard. I find 1 or 2 minutes are needed at each position. Same idea after your done with 1 and move to 2 which is tighter yet. I smeared several Teflon rings until I got the hang of it!

If you have not ordered a set of spare seals,o-rings and clips I would get one on order!
They are all over but it should include what's shown below. You have a 6 cylinder but these are cheap so an 8 cylinder kit is fine. About $20. This is cheap insurance because the injectors will come with new stuff but you don't want to chance having a damaged seal/o-ring that shuts you down waiting on parts.




On my XJ I could not move the fuse box much at all? That would help for sure.
.
.
.
.