Jaguar XF is rusty after only 11 years
#1
Jaguar XF is rusty after only 11 years
Hello Gentlemen.
Long story short... I was always doing all regular technical inspections only at authorized Jaguar dealers. This year I decided to install a tow hook on my Jaguar XF 2.0 2013, which I did in March, and the Jaguar service complained that they had trobles releasing some bolts because of rust. They do not perform any body work so they suggested me to cure the rust elsewhere.
Later I contacted Jaguar customer service, and they found another dealer in the same area who could do the check. The conclusion from the dealer (attached) is that the anti-rust treatment is not possible. Instead, they suggested to change the car because it's not safe.
Any suggestions, ideas or comments?
Thanks in advance
Long story short... I was always doing all regular technical inspections only at authorized Jaguar dealers. This year I decided to install a tow hook on my Jaguar XF 2.0 2013, which I did in March, and the Jaguar service complained that they had trobles releasing some bolts because of rust. They do not perform any body work so they suggested me to cure the rust elsewhere.
Later I contacted Jaguar customer service, and they found another dealer in the same area who could do the check. The conclusion from the dealer (attached) is that the anti-rust treatment is not possible. Instead, they suggested to change the car because it's not safe.
Any suggestions, ideas or comments?
Thanks in advance
#2
Ouch! Here in the US the northern states get lots of snow so they spread "salt" on the roads to melt the ice. This creates an amazing amount of rust on any unprotected steel. So frames and such rust out fast. The whole car can look fine but underneath it's destroyed.
Are you in a part of Italy that gets lots of snow?
Are you in a part of Italy that gets lots of snow?
#3
But the essence is that it is quite normal to reach such condition within ~10 years in a snowy country?
#4
The corrosion warrantee, is what 5 or 6 years. So that has past and the JLR company warrantee is satisfied.
The subframes , and under body steel parts are coated to meet this warrantee (just) in NW Europe type climates with snow and salt, UK, Northern State of US etc.
By that time the coating is done, breaking/broken down and you're down to bare steel rusting.
If you do not routining, inspect and redcoat of the under body steel parts of your car. You are in for trouble.
There are many examples. I own most of them!
If however you live in warmer, i.e none snow and no salted roads, damp sea salt coastal areas, the undersides can look like new.
Note: If you have lived in a salting area and then move to warmed areas, sorry the damage is done and still needs repair, re-coating to steel areas, since the protective coating has been damaged.
Ask me how I know!
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2010XFPushBrakeHarderToStart (05-30-2024)
#5
Many states in the US have annual inspections to ensure cars are safe to operate on the road. Most are in the snowy north for exactly this reason. The frames and suspension rust out.
But there are different degrees of rust and the inspection specs are not all the same between states. On the optimistic side, maybe your car is still OK to sell in another country, if the applicable laws are Italian and not EU. On the pessimistic side we should not discount the possibility the shop just said that to buy your car cheap.
Some pics of the damage can give us a clue as to the actual degree of damage.
But there are different degrees of rust and the inspection specs are not all the same between states. On the optimistic side, maybe your car is still OK to sell in another country, if the applicable laws are Italian and not EU. On the pessimistic side we should not discount the possibility the shop just said that to buy your car cheap.
Some pics of the damage can give us a clue as to the actual degree of damage.
#6
#7
The garage they recommend will only be interested in replacing large expensive new bits.
You really have to go to the underbody repair re-coat specialists, If there are any in Switzerland, or the North of Italy/ Germany, Who have a business in saving classic, high valve, owner loved, BMW, Audi, Porsche, etc..
Usually found in areas, where there is winter snow and salt on the roads, There is a clue there.
I get the distinct impression that the garage that JLR sent you too not interested in repairing, re-coating the underside of the car.
What does your local government car inspection agency say?
The majority of these car, coming from the pre explained areas, Snow and salt, will look very ugly underneath, eventually leading to being not economically viable to repair.
Unless you DIY, or/ and keep on top of the underside maintenance.
Which is the same for any car.
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#8
In Switzerland, I have to import my car after having been living here for 2 years (and they have already passed). The import procedure involves an inspection. I visited a local garage and they told me that I will not pass the inspection, because they take a hammer and hit the underbody parts with it. If any pieces of rust fall down - the inspection is failed. In that case, I assume, my car can leave Swiss territory only on a platform. So local garage also suggested me to buy a new car, or just keep driving on this one without importing it.
#9
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2010XFPushBrakeHarderToStart (06-03-2024)
#10
I am gloing to buy this - https://www.arebos.ch/ch_de/pkw-auff...e-2-stuck.html to lift the car, and this set of chemicals - https://www.por15.de/, and try sometng myself.
Any better suggestions?
Any better suggestions?
#11
I am gloing to buy this - https://www.arebos.ch/ch_de/pkw-auff...e-2-stuck.html to lift the car, and this set of chemicals - https://www.por15.de/, and try sometng myself.
Any better suggestions?
Any better suggestions?
Not really,
Remove rust, apply rust kill, prime surface, and then paint, (to/with which ever paint system you choose.) The better the preparation the best the final job.
Mechanical preparation, wire brushes, selection of cheap brushes for applications.(length, and brush width), eye protection, gloves, beanie.
May be remove the braces, easily removable bits, and get them blasted, and painted separately. better look.
Check the rear links, and drop links when your in there, rusty, and the rubbers (boots) may be perished. Paint the new ones before fitting. Use hammerite Smooth Black myself.
#12
Not really,
Remove rust, apply rust kill, prime surface, and then paint, (to/with which ever paint system you choose.) The better the preparation the best the final job.
Mechanical preparation, wire brushes, selection of cheap brushes for applications.(length, and brush width), eye protection, gloves, beanie.
May be remove the braces, easily removable bits, and get them blasted, and painted separately. better look.
Check the rear links, and drop links when your in there, rusty, and the rubbers (boots) may be perished. Paint the new ones before fitting. Use hammerite Smooth Black myself.
Remove rust, apply rust kill, prime surface, and then paint, (to/with which ever paint system you choose.) The better the preparation the best the final job.
Mechanical preparation, wire brushes, selection of cheap brushes for applications.(length, and brush width), eye protection, gloves, beanie.
May be remove the braces, easily removable bits, and get them blasted, and painted separately. better look.
Check the rear links, and drop links when your in there, rusty, and the rubbers (boots) may be perished. Paint the new ones before fitting. Use hammerite Smooth Black myself.
#13
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