XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

Jaguar XFR Fuel Pump woes - P0627

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Old 10-16-2020, 11:29 PM
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Default Jaguar XFR Fuel Pump woes - P0627

Hey guys, i've been having an intermittent no start situation. The first time it happened, this code came and stayed (P0627 - Fuel Pump "A" Control Circuit /Open).

Also the fuse in the trunk for fuel pump "f25" was burnt. Fuse replaced and car started normally . Been daily driving for 2 weeks without any issue. Today started, rolled off driveway and died. Tried starting several times. At times it felt like it was going to turn over, but never did. Fuse is fine. Took off my seat, and fuel tank cover to see the plug looking like this.. (picture below).


Last falI I had the fuel gauge read 0, so did the "fix" as per JTB00301NAS1 - cutting off corroded connectors and reconnecting directly. Fuel gauge worked after that without any issues for almost a year.

Perhaps this may be linked to this? Or is it a seperate case of failing fuel pump? Do I need a whole new fuel pump OR just the top bit ?

Update - car still wont start, and fuse is fine. I got lucky for a few weeks, but need to take affirmative action now.

Advice much appreciated. ​​​​​​​



 
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:15 AM
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If I do have to resort to a new fuel pump. Would a fuel pump from a Land Rover - Range Rover sport 5,0 supercharged work? On Rockauto The Land Rover one is 215ish Dollars VS The Jaguar one for 630ish.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...QtDXTJTbF0zbNw

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...assembly,10147
 
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Old 10-18-2020, 09:52 PM
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Yeah my money would be on the fuel pump.

I can't say for certain that the pump from a RR Sport would work, but being the same engine it's presumably rated to flow the same amount of fuel. And they do look really similar - crucially the motor inside looks identical - the RR one just appears to be missing the level float.

Jaguar:


Range Rover:


If it were me, I'd take the gamble, and just swap the pump motor and pickup filter from the new RR sport housing to your old Jaguar one.
 
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Old 10-18-2020, 10:47 PM
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Awesome! That's what i was thinking. Opening her back up tomorrow. An electrical workshop told me to bring the fuel pump in to see if they were able to fix it. Thought id try that.

But I think going with the RR one is the way to go . Thanks Dave!
 
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:49 PM
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Turns out the Electrical shop tested the pump and its working. Continuity through the pump housing/connector as well. The pin that looks burnt is the ground pin, and likely the culprit is the ground wire.

What do I do know? Is the wire traceable by myself, OR Is this at the point where I got to take in a shop ? Id have to look for a shop good with electrical, and fixing things, as opposed to "replacing" things.
 
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Old 10-29-2020, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Turtlepower
Turns out the Electrical shop tested the pump and its working. Continuity through the pump housing/connector as well. The pin that looks burnt is the ground pin, and likely the culprit is the ground wire.

What do I do know? Is the wire traceable by myself, OR Is this at the point where I got to take in a shop ? Id have to look for a shop good with electrical, and fixing things, as opposed to "replacing" things.
If the pin looks like it got hot as it does then it was not making a good connection and the resistance associated with the bad connection caused the heat and the failure. Fix that connection and all will probably be well.
 
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Old 11-03-2020, 05:12 PM
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Just thought Id give an update for anyone who may run into this issue in the future. The electrical workshop traced the wires and found faulty ground wire, and a couple other corroded connections. Fixed, and put back together. So far, the car starts and runs fine! Looks like for the time being I can avoid the fuel pump replacement. For a fraction of the cost, shes purring once again. Although, as mentioned above, IF the fuel pump needs to be replaced, looks like the Land Rover RR pump is a fraction of the XFR priced one.
 
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Old 11-05-2020, 02:49 PM
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Fuel pump is toast, replace it asap
 
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Old 11-05-2020, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis black
Fuel pump is toast, replace it asap

Can you kindly elaborate? Are you saying even though the fuel pump works, It's still toast? Are you saying it might have caused the corroded/burnt ground wires ?
 
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Old 11-05-2020, 03:35 PM
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Wwere were the ground wires that were corroded. Thinking of checking and cleaning mine, the car was in the rust belt for a bunch of its life
 
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Old 11-06-2020, 06:11 PM
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this is the reason common in most pump failures

 
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Old 11-11-2020, 08:32 AM
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Flange is separate to the pump ? with a part #?
 
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Jssaab
Flange is separate to the pump ? with a part #?
Yessir: C2D25076
 
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Old 11-13-2020, 02:46 AM
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All Good info here. So far the electrical fixes have sufficed. I am still not 100 percent comfortable this is the long term solution. Time will tell, but I am ready at any given moment to purchase a new fuel pump. ill give a 2 month update, followed up by 6 month in case anyone stumbles on a similar issue in the future. Thanks everyone!
 
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:09 PM
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"Where were were the ground wires that were corroded. Thinking of checking and cleaning mine, the car was in the rust belt for a bunch of its life"

Just ordered the pump and flange for my 2011 XF - curious where one would start looking for the ground wire in question as well -
 
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Old 03-21-2021, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rockytt
"Where were were the ground wires that were corroded. Thinking of checking and cleaning mine, the car was in the rust belt for a bunch of its life"

Just ordered the pump and flange for my 2011 XF - curious where one would start looking for the ground wire in question as well -
My 2012 XFR was suffering from stuttering above 4500 RPM but for a while it didn't throw any codes. Finally, at high speeds it went restricted performance and threw the "P0087 code - Fuel Rail System too Low." I searched last night for some time and came across multiple posts and videos. My thought is that it could be either the fuel pump or direct injection high pressure fuel pumps(X2). So I watched the video "Faulty Fuel Pumps" which shows the burnt connector pins and decided to look at that connector. It took perhaps 3 mins to get the connector and that is when I noticed I had 3 of the prongs on my plug burnt and I could see some fuel on the plug . So I ordered up a new Fuel Pump and Flange from Harper Jaguar for $500 and will let you know how it goes.

Question, it doesn't appear to hard to replace the fuel pump and flange. Are there any special tools required? Is it a DIY job?


"
 
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Old 03-21-2021, 12:18 AM
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Sorry for the delay in response guys.

Most of the job was DIY. I have the fuel pump out and disconnected. It was tested and deemed working and fine. The burnt pins were indications of arcing or an improper ground connection. I tried tracing the ground wire, but that part was over my head..

Thankfully the electrical shop was willing to dig in and trace the wire. The mentioned the fixed the ground connection as well as the fuel sender connections.

All has been good for a while now.

Total cost to me was 200 CAD. No replacement of fuel pump.
 
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Old 03-22-2021, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bmcinsd
My 2012 XFR was suffering from stuttering above 4500 RPM but for a while it didn't throw any codes. Finally, at high speeds it went restricted performance and threw the "P0087 code - Fuel Rail System too Low." I searched last night for some time and came across multiple posts and videos. My thought is that it could be either the fuel pump or direct injection high pressure fuel pumps(X2). So I watched the video "Faulty Fuel Pumps" which shows the burnt connector pins and decided to look at that connector. It took perhaps 3 mins to get the connector and that is when I noticed I had 3 of the prongs on my plug burnt and I could see some fuel on the plug . So I ordered up a new Fuel Pump and Flange from Harper Jaguar for $500 and will let you know how it goes.

Question, it doesn't appear to hard to replace the fuel pump and flange. Are there any special tools required? Is it a DIY job?"
Nah - not too hard -
It would be easier to remove the piece that holds the flange in place, but I was able to wrestle it off w/o too much difficulty. The thing to remember is that the pump itself just needs to rotate in order to remove it - there's some tabs in the bottom of the tank that hold it in place. Just remember which direction you spun it in order to remove it - makes it a LOT easier to replace when it goes back in!
 
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Old 03-22-2021, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rockytt
Nah - not too hard -
It would be easier to remove the piece that holds the flange in place, but I was able to wrestle it off w/o too much difficulty. The thing to remember is that the pump itself just needs to rotate in order to remove it - there's some tabs in the bottom of the tank that hold it in place. Just remember which direction you spun it in order to remove it - makes it a LOT easier to replace when it goes back in!
Thank you for the response. Are there any special tools required, like a fuel line disconnect tool?
 
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Old 03-22-2021, 12:09 PM
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no special tools at all - a lot of the bits are just of the "squeeze the connector with your fingers" variety
I just hope your tank is not as full as mine was!
 


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