Look what Santa brought me (S badge)
#21
Great idea. Lets see some pics of them installed. I don't feel that it's bad to use them. It's certainly not like taking the M badge for your basic BMW. Diesel or not, the S is intended to designate supercharged so why not. I may do this on my new XF "S".
Last edited by trevine; 01-18-2013 at 06:05 AM.
#22
I believe S is designated to indicate not only supercharged, but special sport tuned engines (at least in the U.S.). Example: Type F supercharged V6 base is 340 horses; type F-S is same V6 supercharged but produces 380 horses.
Would love some clarity and opinions form the forum as I would prefer adding the AWD-S badge to my SC XJ, rather than the stupid 3.0 displacement badging...Just did not want to make it seem like the car is something its not...its quite a car anyway.
???
Would love some clarity and opinions form the forum as I would prefer adding the AWD-S badge to my SC XJ, rather than the stupid 3.0 displacement badging...Just did not want to make it seem like the car is something its not...its quite a car anyway.
???
#23
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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In the UK, Europe and here in Orstralya the "S" badge signifies the higher output version of the 3.0 litre V6 twin turbo diesel, known as the XFS.
A couple of weeks ago I bought two new "S" badges, the same as shown earlier in this thread, and put them on the car. They are the "facelift" (post 2012) version of the XFS "S" badge, quite different to the pre-facelift version (which I have) which is plain chrome with no red or green bit.
I used the same method as spelled out by ttboonie to attach the front badge to the grille, except I used a bit of 3mm aluminium plate instead of plastic for the backing piece. I worked this out myself (I was in the building trade many moons ago and used toggle bolts a fair bit), and I had not seen this thread before now. Seems great minds think alike!
I moved the original "S" badge from the boot (trunk) lid to the dash.
So, in summary, the "S" badge in question really has nothing to do with "supercharged", at least not as originally intended by Jaguar.
Edit - that is for the XF. For the F-Type it's different, the "S" badge signifies the middle model, the higher output 3.0 L V6. And the F-Type "S" badge is a different shape, the red and green bit is round rather than trapezoid.
A couple of weeks ago I bought two new "S" badges, the same as shown earlier in this thread, and put them on the car. They are the "facelift" (post 2012) version of the XFS "S" badge, quite different to the pre-facelift version (which I have) which is plain chrome with no red or green bit.
I used the same method as spelled out by ttboonie to attach the front badge to the grille, except I used a bit of 3mm aluminium plate instead of plastic for the backing piece. I worked this out myself (I was in the building trade many moons ago and used toggle bolts a fair bit), and I had not seen this thread before now. Seems great minds think alike!
I moved the original "S" badge from the boot (trunk) lid to the dash.
So, in summary, the "S" badge in question really has nothing to do with "supercharged", at least not as originally intended by Jaguar.
Edit - that is for the XF. For the F-Type it's different, the "S" badge signifies the middle model, the higher output 3.0 L V6. And the F-Type "S" badge is a different shape, the red and green bit is round rather than trapezoid.
Last edited by OzXFR; 01-12-2015 at 12:45 AM.
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SrJaguar (01-12-2015)
#24
To make the whole "S" thing more complicated, Jag's new XE model comes as XE-S, and the S signifies the 340Hp supercharged V6 model and some sporty styling, but NO extra tuning, unlike the other S models that are larger output engines due to tuning.
I am really wanting to clean things up on my new XJ trunk boot and am considering replacing the 3.0 and AWD with the one piece AWD-S logo. If Jag is using the S badge on other 340HP SC V6 models, then Im ok doing it I suppose.
I am really wanting to clean things up on my new XJ trunk boot and am considering replacing the 3.0 and AWD with the one piece AWD-S logo. If Jag is using the S badge on other 340HP SC V6 models, then Im ok doing it I suppose.
#25
To make the whole "S" thing more complicated, Jag's new XE model comes as XE-S, and the S signifies the 340Hp supercharged V6 model and some sporty styling, but NO extra tuning, unlike the other S models that are larger output engines due to tuning.
I am really wanting to clean things up on my new XJ trunk boot and am considering replacing the 3.0 and AWD with the one piece AWD-S logo. If Jag is using the S badge on other 340HP SC V6 models, then Im ok doing it I suppose.
I am really wanting to clean things up on my new XJ trunk boot and am considering replacing the 3.0 and AWD with the one piece AWD-S logo. If Jag is using the S badge on other 340HP SC V6 models, then Im ok doing it I suppose.
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Gpalace (01-13-2015)
#28
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#31
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The trick is to pull it towards you, away from the grill, as you do up the bolt, so the toggles are jammed up against the back of the grill as you 'pull' the backing piece into the face of the grill. Then, once you get a bit of tension you can stop pulling it towards you and instead concentrate on getting it centred and straight.
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Gpalace (01-17-2015)
#32
The trick is to pull it towards you, away from the grill, as you do up the bolt, so the toggles are jammed up against the back of the grill as you 'pull' the backing piece into the face of the grill. Then, once you get a bit of tension you can stop pulling it towards you and instead concentrate on getting it centred and straight.
#33
@ttboonie thanks for the steps to use the toggle anchor to attach the badge onto the grille. Followed his steps to get it done but I had to slightly do it differently with some improvisation in my case.
Tools that I used:
-Black & Decker power drill. Nothing fancy, just something with adequate rpm to drill a hole through the lexan sheet.
-Hole saw 1-1/8 in. Use to cut a hole through the lexan for an almost perfect circle to attach the badge onto and mount on the grille.
-Lexan sheet. Home Depot didn't have anything smaller than 0.093 in. thickness, so had to get this one. It's not terribly thick, I feel it's just about right.
-Pop toggle 3/8 in. The 1/8 felt too small and short. The 3/8 is just about right.
-Countersink drill bits. Used the 1/8 bit to make the hole for the flat-head screw so that it sits flush into the lexan.
-#8 1-1/4 in. flat-head wood screw. Flat-head works best because you'll want the screw to sit flush into the lexan.
-3M extreme hold double-sided tape. The one that comes with the badge is not sticky enough.
-Rapidfuse adhesive. Use this for extra hold from badge to lexan. I guess this is optional but I just wanted to be safe.
-3M sand paper 1500 grit. Optional, I used this to smooth out the edges of the cut lexan circle piece.
-Quick Color flat black. Optional, I used it on the lexan cut circle piece and pop toggle anchor. Wanted it to match the grille.
The part that took me the longest was making the countersunk screw hole on the lexan so that the screw would sit flush into it. Took a little work and improvisation and using multiple countersink bits to make the top part of the screw hole large enough that the flat-head screw sat flushed into it.
When you fold the toggle anchor and insert it through one of the holes in the grille, while tightening the screw with the lexan onto the toggle anchor, you can use your fingers to hold onto the back of the toggle anchor legs through the grille. At least that's what I did to hold the toggle anchor in place while I tighten the screw.
So far the hold is very firm and tight. Haven't had any issues with it becoming loose. I guess the only way it can come off is if someone decided to grab and pull on it hard.
Tools that I used:
-Black & Decker power drill. Nothing fancy, just something with adequate rpm to drill a hole through the lexan sheet.
-Hole saw 1-1/8 in. Use to cut a hole through the lexan for an almost perfect circle to attach the badge onto and mount on the grille.
-Lexan sheet. Home Depot didn't have anything smaller than 0.093 in. thickness, so had to get this one. It's not terribly thick, I feel it's just about right.
-Pop toggle 3/8 in. The 1/8 felt too small and short. The 3/8 is just about right.
-Countersink drill bits. Used the 1/8 bit to make the hole for the flat-head screw so that it sits flush into the lexan.
-#8 1-1/4 in. flat-head wood screw. Flat-head works best because you'll want the screw to sit flush into the lexan.
-3M extreme hold double-sided tape. The one that comes with the badge is not sticky enough.
-Rapidfuse adhesive. Use this for extra hold from badge to lexan. I guess this is optional but I just wanted to be safe.
-3M sand paper 1500 grit. Optional, I used this to smooth out the edges of the cut lexan circle piece.
-Quick Color flat black. Optional, I used it on the lexan cut circle piece and pop toggle anchor. Wanted it to match the grille.
The part that took me the longest was making the countersunk screw hole on the lexan so that the screw would sit flush into it. Took a little work and improvisation and using multiple countersink bits to make the top part of the screw hole large enough that the flat-head screw sat flushed into it.
When you fold the toggle anchor and insert it through one of the holes in the grille, while tightening the screw with the lexan onto the toggle anchor, you can use your fingers to hold onto the back of the toggle anchor legs through the grille. At least that's what I did to hold the toggle anchor in place while I tighten the screw.
So far the hold is very firm and tight. Haven't had any issues with it becoming loose. I guess the only way it can come off is if someone decided to grab and pull on it hard.
Last edited by daftshadow; 10-01-2017 at 10:17 PM.
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