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If you yourself replace amplifier you must saw the C4ME22E connector housing:
connectors location
It's blue one connector, all wiring for Meridian surround system (midrange & tweeters front doors) already present from factory!
If all necessary wiring present, in this case what the difference in both diagrams? The difference in one connector housing! Now you understand?
The C44-Z connector is the key what I was looking for (currently all midranges are cut off) and when one changes the pinout, then the mid+high speakers are no longer parallel. Then the AMP can be changed to fully active.
Still remains the question if Jaguar used passive crossovers at least on the tweeters in the base model. It would be almost impossible if not. mid frequencys would destroy the tweeters in no time.
Then the next question is that have they used the passive crossovers in the fully active systems also or not. IF not, then the possible capasitor (6db/oct) or even worse (12db/oct inline crossover) with the tweeter slightly messes up the active system crossover points and also causes significant phase shift = bad sound.
I will be opening the doors when the snow goes away and will figure this all out. I plan to even measure the frequency responses that what crossover frequencys they used for bass, mid and highs, just so we can choose best possible speakers to be used. I will not be using any standard ones because we are building a "light" demo system.
I thought BW MK2 was active(more channles) but seems no.
2012MY B&W 1200W and 2013MY-onward Meridian 825W is the same channel assignments
Front doors have each a separate channel for tweeter, midrange and bass
Rear doors have each a separate channel for tweeter and bass
Separate channels for three surround speakers, two channels to subwoofer
Cant speak for meridan but 1200w bowers tweeters have hidden 3.3uf 6.8uf caps. They are hiddden in wires. Meridan uses same tweeters. Bowers have active xover high pass for mids center rears and active low pass for woofers ( at around 250hz 18db oct) all other xovers is PASSIVE. Its strange as in facelift there dedicated channels. And NO active does not sound better than passive( except woofers low pass where absence of coil dcr is great and active always " beats" passive) but in car a cheap 0.15usd cap vs 12db active filter is no fair comparission.
We did this mod on mine, I have made a friend who has access to software and I sourced parts from a damaged XFR so I was very pleased when I carried out this upgrade from 380W to 825W.
I know this is an old post but I need the additional audio options added to my system too. I have just had all the speakers replaced but need the additional audio options to hear them work properly.
I know this is an old post but I need the additional audio options added to my system too. I have just had all the speakers replaced but need the additional audio options to hear them work properly.
Can you help?
Our friend in the UK who can do the programming is in Warwickshire, don't know anyone closer to you sorry.
Looking to have this SDD upgrade done on my FType. Anyone know anyone in the North West of England that can do?
I have already had all the speakers replaced in the car to include to new subwoofers but don't have the additional audio controls.
I know it is a old post. For me helpfull .
I found a amplifier and subwoofer that suit my extra bass needs , I think .
Subwoofer is the original enclosure that fits in the spare wheel place. 2 x 70Watt
The amp is EW93-19C164-AB model. 12CH high
I believe this is the amp for the job ,
I have searched a lot to find the specs and diagram from this amp , nu succes....
If someone have this data it would be nice , I believe it is a B&W amp , same as the diagram in this thread .
I know it is a old post. For me helpfull .
I found a amplifier and subwoofer that suit my extra bass needs , I think .
Subwoofer is the original enclosure that fits in the spare wheel place. 2 x 70Watt
The amp is EW93-19C164-AB model. 12CH high
I believe this is the amp for the job ,
I have searched a lot to find the specs and diagram from this amp , nu succes....
If someone have this data it would be nice , I believe it is a B&W amp , same as the diagram in this thread .
Regards, Willis
I'm pretty sure that is the correct model for the amp as well as the sub. It's pretty much plug and play, if you are only installing the sub and amp.
Is it possible too get the specifications from this amplifier ? EW93-19C164-AB model. 12CH high .
I am confused , is it bower and wilkins or meridian , 425 Watt ?
For uprade the software , can I get some help with that ?
Is it possible too get the specifications from this amplifier ? EW93-19C164-AB model. 12CH high .
I am confused , is it bower and wilkins or meridian , 425 Watt ?
For uprade the software , can I get some help with that ?
If I am correct the EW93-19C164-AB is the high amp, I think it is rated at 825 Watts into 12 channels (I think Harmon Kardon made the amps and they were the same for the B&W and Meridian)
The premium amp major difference is that they added the surround sound modes and 1200 watts into 16 channels.
No I don´t. I have a background of +20 years in electronics development (work in company that designs and manufactures gsm technology) and I have also competet in car audio competitions for almost a decade (won 3 times in championships) and I really do not?
It just amazes me how do you get the midrange signal (GNBU) and (GYBU) to jump in the air because they are not connected at all to the actual speakers in the base level system?
I understand that the connector you prefer needs to be changed (pinout) but there has to be a crossover for at least for the tweeter that needs to be removed because the other amplifier is fully active.
Another issue is that where is that parallel connection actually made - located, which I have been asking in the first Place.
MR
did you resolve this?
im having the same problem.
Only getting HF spiny from the front mid speakers. No vocal sounds at all
Why? It just proves my point, the cabeling is different on the base model sound system. There are passive crossovers beeing used for the midrange + tweeter combo and if you change the amp, your midrange speakers are then driven by the tweeter channel. Ie. If you hook up a better version amplifier (without removing the passive crossovers and connecting the midrange speakers to correct cables), your tweeters and midranges in the front doors are still passive and not active, like they should = bad sound quality?
OR have I missed the part where you have removed the passive crossovers and made the right connections? I could not find any info on that?
MR
got the same problem
how are the mids powered from a separate channel now?
I have a same car/spec (2012 XF portfolio). I upgraded the speakers to meridian. Also want to add the subwoofer and amplifier. Whats the correct amplifier and sub model/number for total of 11 speakers system. Also, can you help me in updating the head unit, I live in College Park, MD?
I'm doing this same upgrade and buying all the parts a few at a time,Question-was the rear shelf wiring for the speakers already in the car ? Don't want to order this if not needed,and haven't taken out the rear shelf yet...
Hi all! Sorry to revive this post, I'm wondering if anyone tried this on a sportbrake? I guess most of the things should be the same, but I am not sure:
1) where to find the amplifier (it doesn't seem to be in the same location as for the saloon)
2) if the sub is the same, as in the sparewheel space there is also the compressor for the self-leveling suspensions
Any thoughts?