I've looked up a ton of info on the OEM bearings vs. alternatives. I'm happy to post it all, but it goes deep, and might be a complete waste of time, since the factory bearings do appear to hold up well.

 

I'll second that. I have not seen a single post ever on a failure of an idler.

 

Reaxions, how many miles are on your car? Have you replaced the snout on your supercharger yet? Might be something to think about before installing another pulley. I had mine replaced and went back to a stock upper pulley. Took away some of the power, but it's a lot better driving around without the light switch power delivery it had before. Would hate for you to do the new pulley and have to replace shortly after.

 

Hey... there he is!!! Glad you're alive!!! Ha-ha! I have almost 53K miles on it.

Yes, I'm doing the snout right now. I have the charge cooler off of the SC and hope to work on SC removal this weekend.

I just received my Mina lower pulley today (took 2 weeks). I measured it and it's definitely 181mm, as previously attested to by VicVegas84. And... it weighs 885 grams (OEM weighs 1218 grams).

Mina Gallery 181mm Lower Crank Pulley

Mina Gallery 181mm Lower Crank Pulley

Mina Gallery 181mm Lower Crank Pulley

OEM Lower Crank Pulley

What I'm confused about though is that I just measured my OEM pulley at 165mm. I thought it was only supposed to be 152mm??? Or am I just being stoopid again??? I measured it at the same place as I measured the Mina pulley at 181mm, which is what it was said to be, and even if I'd measured the OEM pulley at the ribs, it wouldn't be 152mm, so huh???


OEM Crank Pulley

The belt which came with the Mina pulley appears to be a "Mitsuboshi" (not Mitsubishi) 8DPK1442 (1442mm???). I had to Google it, as it didn't come with any kind of paperwork/marketing stuff (and Chris never provides anything, even upon request). It was just the plain belt. It says "Made in U.S.A.," but apparently it's Japanese? I've never heard of "Mitsuboshi," but that doesn't mean anything. Good belt??? Right size???


Mitsuboshi Belt

I also picked up my rebuilt alternator today. They only charged me $145, instead of the quoted $160, and the whole damned thing looks brand new, so color me impressed!





Lastly, Allisport reached out and said they had a cancelled order on their intercooler, so I was able to buy it today. And, I already received a UPS shipping notification saying that it would arrive on Monday (yes, the Monday in just a few days). It cost £81.98 for shipping, but, man, that's awesome. It usually takes me two weeks to get stuff from vendors here in the U.S., so I'm pretty blown away. I might still consider adding a front heat exchanger because COOLING, COOLING, COOLING, as long as the Bosch pump can handle it all. Not sure about the fans, though, due to potential for blockage at speed, but I'm definitely OK experimenting on it with certain things at this point. Has anyone ever tried to run dual pumps?

 

Kyanite - I just noticed your sig... do you still have your Ninja? I had a ZX-7R in college, but my last bike was a 2005 Honda RC51 (RVT1000R), and now that it's starting to warm up here, I'm getting the itch and thinking about getting another V-twin. I might need to tell my wife that my birthday is in just a few weeks. Ha-ha! I almost feel like I'm too old for it now, though.

Wow! I looked so young and skinny in the 2000's!

 

That's a significant savings in rotational mass! Did you try measuring circumference on the pulley?

Off topic, but I would recommend you throw a leg on an Aprilia Tuono. The V4 is a really fantastic motor. At 37 I can appreciate the more upright riding position of the Tuono. It's really a gentlemen's super bike. With 172 hp on my 13 it's more than enough for anything I'll ever do. The later 1100's are more reliable and have more tq/hp. They depreciate significantly more than their Japanese counterparts, and the later bikes (1100cc) are arguably just as reliable. I find myself riding my Tuono far more often than my F4.

That RC51 is stunning!

 

Still have it but don’t ride it much. It’s been customized to fit me so I’m not getting rid of it. There are fewer days in TX that are nice to ride and this last year I’ve spent the good days working on my yard or other outdoor activities. Making a commitment to myself to ride more and golf more when fall comes.

 

One of my best friends lives in Austin, TX and he's been collecting café bikes and old Japanese cruisers for a while, but he's rarely home enough to ride them, so he's asking if I'll take a few of them for him. I'm kind of on the fence because I'd probably have to work on them, too, and I just don't have time, so newer sounds better. I speak from experience, as another buddy gave me a 2001 911 cabriolet which needed work because he was moving to Vermont with his GF (he also had a Range Rover Sport Supercharged which he was taking with him). Anyway, I started doing the work on the 911, but my buddy wanted to pick it up for the weekend whenever he came into town, which was a pain in my ***. I ended up giving it back and told him I wasn't a marina. Ha-ha! He ended up breaking up with the girl in Vermont and moving back to Atlanta, and he still has the 911 rotting away in his garage. Sad.

 

@VicVegas84 - Sorry I totally missed your previous comment. Thanks!

I just measured the OEM pulley circumference on the ribs at exactly 500mm (diameter of 159.155mm), which is still larger than the the 152mm referenced in this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-limit-252073/

Is it possible they switched crank pulley sizes over the years?

 

Could very well be an error on the OP on that thread. I never did much research into the old pulley sizes.

 

It just changes the percentage of "benefit" and SC RPM by adding a larger crank pulley, in case anyone cares.

 

same here when I got my xf back in 2015 I wasn't sure on getting it tuned or keeping it for a few years an then get a newer xf with the Bosch ecu. Everyone kept saying denso cars did not made hp. people said they dint feel any difference after tune. so that really made me want to trade my xf for a newer one. But after a few years I just felt in love with it lol an last year it made 605hp to the rear wheels and it still has alot more. Same with the exhaust nobody wants to touch the exhaust because they hear other people say they lost hp lol I got mine straight piped no cats no mufflers no resonators and I'm almost hitting a 1.5sec 60ft in the 1/4mile alot of torque. Now the INTAKE everyone say to keep the stock intake and it would make more power I got a single 4" intake an no issues at all intake Temps don't go over 110-115 while moving in a 100+ weather here in Cali.

 

Now that I'm trying to get a lot of my car put back together, I put the lower timing cover back on, so I could install the new crank bolt to turn the engine over to clean the intake valves. While I was at it, I thought I might as well install my new Mina Gallery crank pulley, and… that's where it all went sideways.

First off, I had some issues with the Mina pulley which are probably minor in retrospect, but I wasn't sure at the time.

1) The Mina pulley wouldn’t fit over the stock crank pulley hub's lip without significant grinding and boring. I initially didn’t think much of it and thought it just needed a thin layer anodized finish scraped away to make it fit, as I’ve had to slightly modify a lot of parts over the years due to various issues. But, even though it didn’t seem like I’d need to open it up much, it ended up taking quite a bit of careful grinding and boring to get it to fit around the lip. It's probably OK like that, but anytime pulleys (especially crank pulleys) aren’t perfectly balanced, they can cause huge issues, and I was a little worried that the boring might have a chance to affect it.

2) The Mina pulley’s mounting plate is significantly thicker than the stock pulley, which made my crank install kit’s bolts slightly too short (I had some longer M10 bolts laying around which worked with some washers built up). But, I thought it could also create an issue with the factory mounting bolts being too short to hold securely.












Based on those two issues, I sent Chris at Mina an email asking if he sent me the correct pulley, as I’d vaguely remembered reading about sizing issues on some of the 5.0 SC pulleys but couldn’t remember any of the details. Chris called me immediately (even though it was super early on the left coast), and I talked to him for a long time about the pulley and a bunch of other stuff. Chris assured me that it was indeed the correct pulley, and that he’d requested that the company who makes it for him use super tight tolerances. He also assured me that the factory pulley mounting bolts would have enough purchase, even with the thicker pulley plate. Long story short, I believed him enough to start mounting it the next night.

The crank bolt requires an initial 200 Nm, and then you’re to rotate it another 270° (3/4 turn) to stretch the Torque-to-Yield bolt. So, I got out my 4-year-old, rarely used Tekton ½” torque wrench and set it to 200 Nm. I was going to use that first, and then use my ¾” drive breaker bar to rotate it the additional 270°. Well, getting 200 Nm onto a ½” drive 18” torque wrench was going to take a little more energy than I had, so I put a galvanized fence post around the torque wrench and started pulling it down. I felt like I went past what I imagined 200 Nm was, but my wrench never clicked, so I gave it a little bit more juice. Then, I heard a big POW!!! as something unknown broke. Yeah, I definitely crapped my Underoos. Luckily, but still unluckily, it was only my POS torque wrench.

So, now I had to figure out how to figure out how to finish installing the bolt and had no idea how much torque was actually applied before the torque wrench went BOOM! I finally settled on a new ¾” drive digital torque adapter from Harbor Freight (insert comical one-liner, here), as I’d seen an extremely similar one from Neiko on Amazon, but didn't want to wait two days, and HF is only a half mile from my house. Well, unfortunately, the digital torque adapter wouldn’t fit between the bolts on the pulley install tool. So, I then had to find a ¾” drive extension. Not something I could immediately find locally, I ordered a set of three from Amazon for $37 (Neiko 4”, 6”, and 10”) with two-day delivery, but I again got impatient and finally tracked one down locally. NAPA had a 5” version for $45 plus tax, but the NAPA website is horrible and never lists drive sizes, etc., so I had to call the store to confirm availability.

I loaded everything on and fabricated some other stuff to keep the pushing/pulling force from pulling the bolt down while I leaned/pulled on it. The digital torque adapter said that I’d apparently already torqued the bolt to 423 Nm before the Tekton torque wrench failed. I never heard or felt it click at the 200 Nm I had it set to, but I guess I know why the wrench broke – max torque for it was listed at 338.9 Nm. D’oh!!!

Anyway, I thought I was kind of screwed because who the hell knows what 200 Nm plus 270° translates to in final torque numbers (no readily available formula - all depends on metal type, threads, bolt length, etc.), and I wasn’t going to pull it out, buy a new bolt, and do it all again. But, the workshop manual says that you need a torque multiplier capable of 600 Nm, so I guessed that 200 Nm plus 270° on my crank bolt was probably somewhere near 600 Nm. I understand that the HF digital torque adapter (especially with an extension) probably isn’t entirely accurate, but I got it to 566 Nm and could’ve done more (after a shot of Fireball), but I figured that it's probably a slippery slope between getting the stretch bolt tight vs. snapping it. So, hopefully the bolt is good where it is at 566 Nm because I’ll be damned if I ever want to touch it again.

If I did something stupid, maybe tell me, but I’m not sure I even care at this point.

 

Wow 566 NM! That bad boy ain't coming off!

When I did the lower pulley with VAP they had to know if I had a silver or black stock pulley. I don't see where Mina makes any distinction between the two??
Still not sure what's the difference but the VAP pulley was a simple bolt on and fit like a glove.
.
.
.

 

To be honest, I doubt it's a true 566 Nm, but whatever it really is should be enough to hold it in place. What's weird is that even though they're TTY stretch bolts, when I compared the length of the original bolt I removed to the new bolt (prior to installation, obviously), they looked exactly the same. KansanBrit has reinstalled a few, rather than replacing them, and I'm not convinced that that's such a terrible idea for only one re-use, as I didn't notice any kind of deformation, etc. For me, it's a moot point, though, since I already bought and installed a new one.

I believe the difference in pulleys is the offset, as the wrong offset was shredding belts. The change in pulley offset occurred at some unknown (to me) point, and I'm not sure how it affected the various models. The good news for me is that if I have issues with the pulley, I won't have to remove the crank bolt again.

 

Awesome work Jeff!