I need support with programming an additional key fob for my 2013 XF. I had 1 working fob and purchased a new one on eBay. I was using Jaguar SDD V154 with my Mongoose Pro cable (clone) and was adding a key through the security option. I followed the instructions and by the end of the programming, now BOTH keys (original and new) do not work. The car keeps stating Smart Key not found! The fobs no longer lock or unlock the car! The only button that works on the fob is the headlight button! That turns the headlight on and off on both fobs. I tried the option to ease all keys and reprogram the keys still no luck! Same results with the keys only operating the headlights. I need your help!

 

It is my understanding that a DIY on key programming is not an easy task with SDD.

Gus
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

If the key from ebay is a second hand one, from what I have read, you cannot reprogram it.
Hopefully someone will be along to advise you.

 

I don't think anyone will be along. The people that actually know SDD don't give away that knowledge for free, as well as to avoid liability of bricking a car just by some misunderstanding of complicated instructions. So the rest are just guessing and sometimes what you read here is the result.

Search for 'SDD' on forums and read for hours. Common theme emerges about playing with fire and not really meant for DIY use. The clone cables that everyone uses are not meant for any flash operations whatsoever. Even a momentary voltage drop from the auxiliary power source using genuine cable still means module death when writing. For privateers, the minimal setup is really just READ-ONLY to get a clue about module malfunctions not reported by the cheap bluetooth OBDII readers that show mostly emissions related codes only. Maybe it would be different if the genuine cable wasn't so exorbitantly priced, but thats the current state of affairs.

Specific to remote keys, there are multiple rule sets depending on number of keys required to be present(up to 3, yes), year, radio freq, brand-new never-used before, or allowed refurb IF erased correctly, OEM only matched to VIN range, timing of operations, etc etc. For modern day cars, dealers have a de facto monopoly on key sales and programming, and they charge accordingly.

OP can try to get lucky with a locksmith specializing in euro brands but its most likely a waste of time and money, if they charge just for showing up. See if the car starts when holding the key to the proximity reader on the dash. If not then it will be a tow to the dealer. Don't mention anything about trying to program any keys. Just say the main one stopped working and the new one you got never worked, or they will charge you the 'stupid tax' for trying to take their bread and butter, just out of spite.

 

It also doesn't help that SDD (or at least the totally genuine not-at-all cracked version I got on a DVDR with my equally genuine cable) has literally one of the worst f**king UIs of any application I've ever had to use. My cable seemed reliable enough but I really only used it to do what you're suggesting: get more detailed codes and clear them. Anything beyond that seemed too complex - maybe intentionally so to disuade people from copying and using it? I just can't imagine where on earth JLR hired software developers who thought that that was the best way to design and build that software. I really feel for the techs who have to use it on the regular.

My Autel DS808 does a much better job of presenting (as far as I know) every function available in the SDD, in a way that's actually usable and easy to understand. Sure, purchase price was significantly more than a dodgy cable + DVDR but it does all the "service functions" (e.g. abs bleeding, fuel system pressurization, high pressure fuel pump tests as well as key programming) - they've clearly just reverse-engineered the JLR software. But since it's so much easier to use I certainly don't begrudge them for this.

 

Jaguar published a 31 page key programming guide with flowcharts for the XK/XF because it is quite a complicated procedure and you run the risk of bricking fobs if you don't know what you are doing.

If the fob you bought was unused and unpaired with another instrument cluster then it should have been possible to pair it but if it is a used one it will probably be useless unless you can find someone to put it back to the default state.

If you have erased all keys and not followed the correct procedure or had a failure during that process you may have orphaned your one good one as well. In theory it unusable after that but I have seen reports on this forum from people who have bought second hand fobs and got locksmiths to reset them to default.

Does your car see any of the fobs when you run the test in SDD to verify keys (4th option in the picture below)? Not all versions of SDD seem to have it but it should get you to put the fobs in the car one at a time while it tries to detect them:

 

Firstly thanks to everyone for all of your support to try to help me with my car. I have an update now. The keys are detected in the car. Now it no longer tells me that the smart keys are not detected. When I try to put the car in ignition, there is a momentary flash of lights around the car (as if it's going into ignition) and stops. No response what so ever. However a new DTC code came up which might lead to something. Please look at my attached image of the code.

The code is: B1009-62 Ignition Authorization under the BCM and Instrument Control Panel. When I ran the Immobilization Service Function, at the end it states "Failed to write to target identifier". When running the Immobilization Service Function the car controls ignition on it's own, the last step it asks me to place the car into ignition (which I cant) and then fails to write to target identifier.
I am guessing the codes stored in the KVM is not being shared with the rest.of the modules such as the Immobilizer ? I am going to try to set the KVM up as a new module and see what happens. Is there any suggestions?

As mentioned with the keys, they are detected now in the car, even if I put them by the immobilizer antenna they dont show any message the car just wont go into ignition. If I take the key outside the car and try it again, the car states keys not found.

For key verification it states that 2 Keys are now programmed to the car and both keys are in the car as well. However when it asks the place the keys on the central lever and asks me if the ignition turns on, it doesnt turn the ignition on possibly because of the code :B1009-62. At least now I feel like I'm getting closer.

 

Hi everyone I wanted to share my experience with this issue I had with programming keys. Please read my posts from the top down. As mentioned first, initially both keys the original and the $40 fob I bought on ebay would ONLY turn the headlight on and off using the light key.

What I did next what I noticed the code :B1009-62. I then though possibly the code stored in the KVM isnt being shared with the other modules such as the BCM, IPC. I then programmed the KVM as a new module, updated the module to the latest software and by the end of it, the fobs would now lock and unlock the car! At this point I knew I was getting closer!!

Next I re-scanned the car for new DTC's , the same code appeared. It mentioned the Instrument Control Panel needs to be "re-syncd" to update codes and should be set up again as a "new module". I then proceeded with programming the IPC as a new module (as I did first with the KVM), it updated the Instrument control panel to the latest software and then this time, by the end of it ignition would turn on!!! Woohoo!!!

Next I did key verification, Immobilization which this time SUCCESSFULLY wrote to the target identifier. By the end of all of these procedures and programming I have two programmed keys and a working car!!!

The key I bought from eBay was a $40 fob and the JRL Mongoose cable (clone) I bought was for $70. I am not recommending to use clones, it worked well with me using V154 of JRL. DO THIS AT YOUR OWM RISK if you must try. Hope this helps those who need it.

 

I will not be liable if any issues occur, keep in mind not all clones are created equal, although mine worked well with programming, others may not, do your research and use extreme caution.

 

Hello i have the same issue. I disconnected the battery and now no ignition with my two keys that are originals. What mean KVM? I have the jlr sdd 159. And where is it exactly please to reupdate the "KVM"? thank you

 

KVM is keyless Vehicle Module. If I can recall I programed that Module as if it was a brand new Module (configured as new). Doing so I added the keys back in and was able to lock and unlock the car. After which the IPC AND BCM had to also be reconfigured. For IPC it will ask for a calibration number which is located in the trunk of the car that you have to input. After all of that the keys were back to working.

 

Hi Viyasan
i have the same issue with code B1009-62 could you please give me details how you corrected this if you could not start the car. i am replaceig the KVM with two new keys, what would be the next steps please

 

MAN, thank you so much for this! My friend has this exact same car, and we ended up with exactly the same errors and symptoms while trying to re-program his key (an official Jaguar key), and doing this procedure worked great. Because the ignition button wasn't working at first, we ended up repeating the procedure of programming the KVM and ICP as new modules back and forth, but each time it got a little further and as soon as we could reliably turn the ignition on and off when it asked, we were eventually able to verify the key and reset the immobilizer. We were using SDD 1.60 with the Mongoose cable available on uobdii.com, and I should note this took place at a car repair shop with an approved external battery cart connected (it was around 14.6V the entire time). Do not recommend attempting this without that support battery...

 

Many thanks bro. I do it today with v160. But it need reinstall more modules: key new modules, dashboard modules, brake, gear. Really hard to do.
"Immobilizzation" not work initially beacuse it's impossible to switch on!
​​​​​​1= new key modules2= gear switch modules3= dash and clock modulesAfter that you can solve others modules.
so essential is go to service function.

 

so what your saying and please correct me if I am wrong or out of line is that for anyone who wants to be able to fix issues with these jaguars via sdd (which any true jag owner knows they are often and frequent due to the amazing electrical systems in these beasts) if u don't already have prior knowledge and or experience with this operating system and all its intricacies that we should just about the thought of DIY and go get rapped by our local jag dealers??? Because we all know how well educated they are on newer modern cars but when it comes to the older models they look like a bunch apes standing around scratching there heads or they just go by the book (TSB) and for something like central locking issue they want to rip out and replace 2 modules for a hefty price tag close to $4000 Canadian
now I don't know about u but I ain't rich. I may drive a jag and people think i am but i am certainly not that well off that i can throw 4 grand down and what a week later or two weeks and something decides to have a stroke in my electrical system and what ur saying just go to the dealer again lol. Maybe instead of having that type of attitude and trying to discourage a young enthusiast away from it, u provide some advice or guidance idk maybe encouragement. My baby has been sat dead for over a week and even as I am writing this I'm staring at her and all I want to do is fix her myself and all I keep getting is brick walls everywhere I turn by people who rather take the time to tell me to "just take it to the dealer" instead of taking the time to guide me. Any idea how frustrating that is like whoever designed these cars with no other means to start the car other than the God damn fob is seriously messed in the head. All from not following a procedure to disconnect the batteries (doors closed unlocked, boot open fob 18 miles away from car and don't u dare disconnect the battery and sooner than 33 min or open a door after disconnected or hit a button on the fob or bring the fob within proximity of the car because if deviate from that even slightly ur f*^#ed when u reconnect the batteries.
rant over I do apologize I'm just simply not taking it to the dealer

 

Or just put in some significant effort reading the many posts & docs about IDS/SDD and decide if you want to get the required hardware & software. Beats ranting.

 

makes no sense to me, why would you buy a jaguar knowing you aren't able to maintain it at the dealership/or yourself. I myself know very damn well IDK how to do any mechanical work let alone technical work. All he is recommending is, if you aren't familiar with the programming than dont bite the bullet and think youre capabale of doing so with such a "harder" task like this programing requires especially with the severity of bricking your car. it seems hes saying to learn the basics first as well. Sometimes its best to leave it to the professionals hell you can even take it to a EuroLocksmith if you dont trust the dealership so much.

 

that's exactly what my intentions are and all I have been doing is reading forums, TSB, downoaded the sdd manual, the complete workshop and service repair manual for my specific year make and model. I have a 75amp ac to DC constant power supply. Now I'm trying to get legit cord and software but I mean **** how do tell the real from the fake when they all look the bloody same from $50 all the way up to I seen a "mongoose" cable for over $700 so how do u know the $400 or that ridiculous one for $700 is even legit and ur not paying a stupid amount for a fake and the software........ Jesus it's no better how do u know what your buying is the real deal and not some hacked up piece of junk that's going to crap out on ya midway into reprogramming a module? Because my eyeballs are starting to hurt from the hundreds upon hundreds of "cables" and "software" I've looked at over the last almost two weeks now

 

The proper software was a free download from JLR site when I got it. The proper cable was expensive and JLR listed who sells them.

 

Well you could buy the clone cable here?
Jaguar Mangoose Cable - Clone

It's only about $70 and they do offer a guarantee for whatever that is worth?
They even say the cable has been tested for module reprogramming which is the problem area with these clone cables.

Also well done on the power supply as most don't follow the requirements and try to use a battery charger instead. Do you know what the ripple measurement is? Jaguar wants a stout low ripple DC power supply on the car whenever SDD is in use.
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