Hi Brits!

I bought the car last april.....but i dont understand why the difference would be so much if its just 1 or 2 cosmetic changes and 40 PS?

As for the noise...it just started in January...i have not driven it that much maybe just a 1000 miles...but one issue that i can see is when i am stopped, the car shakes a little while idling and foot on the break with gear engaged in D.

Do you think whatever is wrong is most likely expensive to fix...? The independent shop did not even know something is wrong, they said its the supercharger making the noise. They did not even point towards the timing tensioners....they said they have worked on Porsche Macan, cayenne...audi A8s etc...but this is the first XF SC they are working on.

 

Hi Brits

Thanks for the reply!

I bought the car last April in California....I live in Oregon. So i dont think he will do the work and i cant drive all the way there anyway given the lockdown.

The noise started happening since january....the engine shaking started happening since febuary. Since Jan,

I've had the water pump done
Brake vaccum leak done
Intake boot replaced.

I dont understand why the price is so high for the real R if the only difference is some cosmetic things and 40 PS? Do you think this noise might be related to that shuddering? But the noise itself is surely the timing tensioners? The independent shop is working on the XF SC for the first time...they suspect this noise is from the supercharger.

 

On pricing, I'm surprised too. (I have a 2010 XF SC). I looked on KBB to get a sense of the difference and for a 2012 XF it suggests a $5000 difference btw SC and XFR (on a car only worth $14k). I don't understand why but that's what used pricing suggests.

 

On the noise and the vibration it's really hard to diagnose via the forum. If you have any ecu codes then post them up and that might help. Else you need to find a good Indy that knows jags. Without that you risk throwing parts and money at what might just be guesses

You've already done more to your car in 3 months than I've done in the past 3-4 years. Maybe those were other unrelated issues but I'd look hard for someone who knows these cars and can help guide you on what's really the issue.

 

This man used a similar method but was unable to remove the driver's side blade. Did you get it out without problems? Do you have photos / videos of the process?

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/...1-5-0l.330260/

 

It was a bit of a pain to get out. What I ended up doing was detaching the plastic from the metal part of the guide and took it out as two pieces. I did the same for re-install, split the guide and plastic, then pushed each up into the right area, then reattached them.

-Nate

 

OK, thank you.
No problem with passenger side? Videos/photos would be much appreciated

 

Or any additional tips/tricks when using the zip tie method. My biggest fear is getting the crank pulley off. Also, since you have an XF, what other parts did you remove (fan, radiator, etc.). Any info you can provide will be extremely useful as I suspect many of us will be doing the same thing in the future.

Thanks in advance.

 

Stealing my thunder for the thread I was going to type up

Passenger side was not a problem to get out. Afraid I don't have any pictures of the process itself as I work solo, so I just end up with pictures before/after.

I followed the Land Rover directions for the actual swapping of the guides/tensioners and the Jaguar directions for taking everything apart. There is discrepancy between the LR method and the Jaguar manual regarding how to get the tensioners set correctly. My driver's tensioner "shot" right into place and the guide could not be moved after doing so (which I think is correct). My passenger tensioner was similar but I am able to push the tensioner in a little bit using the guide. On further reading here,I am going to try again on the passenger side to get the tensioner so that it will not go back in at all.

You do have to remove the radiator to get the crank pulley off, there is simply no way to fit the tool in without doing so. Removing the radiator was also the single worst part of this job.


The manual wants you to remove the high pressure fuel lines down the side of the engine, I did not do this. When removing the bolt holding the passenger upper timing cover, I just levered the fuel line up a bit and it was enough to undo the bolt.


Also, to get the lower timing cover off, you either have to disconnect the water pump or the brake booster. I loosened up the 4 bolts on the water pump and that gave me enough play to get the cover out. Fingers crossed it doesn't leak when I put everything back together.\

 

Yes, a dedicated thread would be great. Thank you for the info, very good job!!!

 

the noise you hear is your timing chains dont waste your money traying to fix other things. Does it always make the sound? Or is it only on cold starts? And the shuddering you feel thats because theres gunk on your intake valves.