Oil change? When?
#1
Oil change? When?
Hi everyone considering this is my first Jaguar xfr I have ever owned I'm not sure when to change the oil I've owned it six months so far and it's not telling me anything about the oil what about the coolant change what about any of the other fluids where is the maintenance schedule for this vehicle and has anyone have any idea what I should do I'm at 72000 miles I just had a lot of suspension work done right now and one of my MAF sensors replaced on the driver side and that cost me $500 I couldn't believe it
The following 3 users liked this post by davetibbs:
#3
Oil change
I know my oil change was done when I bought the car in February at 62,000 miles so I'm just wondering if I should just get it done anyway also should I do anything else for maintenance someone told me a brake flush and a coolant flush
#4
12000 miles. So you're coming due soon. Many do more frequently as oil change is cheap. Easy to diy - vacuum it out. Get the right spec - it has a particular type (not everyone believes it's needed but it's peace of mind to use what the engineers suggest)
If you don't know when other fluids have been done then do them all. Brakes every 3 yrs. coolant is I think 4. But both cheap and easy to do if you're not sure
Some do diff - in theory sealed for life but changeable if you want. Bit more of a pain to do
Keep an eye on the plastic parts in the cooling system for leaks
If you don't know when other fluids have been done then do them all. Brakes every 3 yrs. coolant is I think 4. But both cheap and easy to do if you're not sure
Some do diff - in theory sealed for life but changeable if you want. Bit more of a pain to do
Keep an eye on the plastic parts in the cooling system for leaks
#5
I'm assuming you have the 5.0L engine. In that case you won't ever have to worry about the coolant change interval. Its theoretically good for 100K miles, but it will have been changed several times before then anyway with water pump failures along with each piece of PA66 nylon piping. Unless somebody used the wrong kind of coolant at some point, maybe after a previous repair, then its probably fine. Just look. If its bright orange and clear then don't worry about changing it now.
What is however very critical yet most people haven't a clue is the brake fluid. DOT4 Brake Fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the air. You'd think that your hydraulic system is sealed, and it is, only sorta. It does have a vent that will allow air in at the top to replace any volume that might leak out past worn seals below. Otherwise if it didn't do that, then it would suck air back in through leaking seals in the calipers or master cylinder and you'd get spongy brakes or worse. But over about 2-3 years, depending on your humidity levels, it absorbs enough moisture that you want to change it. Wish I had a dollar for every caliper or master cylinder I've opened up and found too rusty to be honed out and rebuilt.
#6
Ignore Jaguar's 16,000 mile recommendation, and do it every 7,500 - 8,000 miles. As others have mentioned, these lengthy service intervals are marketing ploys to keep down projected running costs for the first three years of the car's life. There have been a few instances of timing chain and tensioner failure on the 5.0 litre engine, but none that I am aware of on engines serviced at half the recommended interval. I have no wish to tempt providence, but ours is past 80,000 miles now, with not a hint of any problems.
#7
Don't listen to all these people who say you need to change oil sooner than recommended, people think just because oil looks dirty that it is not good and that is not the case. Look in your manual but that is probably out of date info as oils are improving all the time.. Mobil 1 extended life is now good for 20K miles. That is what I just put in my rebuilt XFR. They say you should change it at least annually but that's up to you, mostly marketing I think. And Mobil 1 is the best oil, I personally know of at least one F1 team that used to put Mobil 1 in other manufacturers cans so they could look like they were using their sponsors oil at the track. Of course if you don't care about the environment or the cost keep changing it.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormance-0w-20/
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormance-0w-20/
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
Last edited by kansanbrit; 10-08-2020 at 10:19 AM.
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#8
This is the most important comment.
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
Last edited by kansanbrit; 10-08-2020 at 10:20 AM.
#9
Cheap insurance.
Don't listen to all these people who say you need to change oil sooner than recommended, people think just because oil looks dirty that it is not good and that is not the case. Look in your manual but that is probably out of date info as oils are improving all the time.. Mobil 1 extended life is now good for 20K miles. That is what I just put in my rebuilt XFR. They say you should change it at least annually but that's up to you, mostly marketing I think. And Mobil 1 is the best oil, I personally know of at least one F1 team that used to put Mobil 1 in other manufacturers cans so they could look like they were using their sponsors oil at the track. Of course if you don't care about the environment or the cost keep changing it.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormance-0w-20/
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormance-0w-20/
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
So that must mean the failures were caused by old oil......pure conjecture !
This is the most important comment.
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
This is the most important comment.
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
Mobil 1 is a perfectly good fully synthetic oil, as are many other brands manufactured to the same specifications, but none last forever, and they all start to deteriorate with the first start after changing.
Yes, it is pure conjecture that extended oil changes caused the failures, but I have yet to encounter a Jag V8 treated to more frequent changes failing, ever, whereas I do know of a small number which have followed the manufacturer's service intervals to the letter, which have; one at around 40,000 miles.
By your own admission, yours has been rebuilt; I have no idea why that was needed, have you? Our 80,000 mile, and 148,000 mile engines have never been apart for repair.
I check our oil levels regularly; neither engine requires topping up between changes, despite having the nuts ragged off them at every opportunity, but agree, regularly checking is essential for engine health, it doesn't take long for a low level to manifest itself as a broken engine.
As for oil change cost and the environment; oil changes are much cheaper than engines, and in Britain at least, oil is recycled.
#10
For reference, the cause of the timing failures is well-known and not related to oil: the earlier timing guides had a metal backing that was too soft and got worn away by the tensioner pin - redesigned guides have a hardened insert to avoid this.
However, there are a number of reasons people recommend oil changes more frequently than manufacturer:
However, there are a number of reasons people recommend oil changes more frequently than manufacturer:
- As stated, oil and filters are cheap. FCP Euro even has a Lifetime Replacement Guarantee that applies to oil if you can be bothered with the hassle of it
- Frequent oil changes with cheap oil are better than infrequent changes with expensive oil.
- These engines burn oil, and do not proactively warn you if the level gets too low. You have to check in the menu to know. Changing the oil provides you with at least a vague knowledge you've got enough in there
- These are (especially in the case of supercharged variants) powerful, complex, and - as demonstrated by the timing guide issue - obviously not totally bullet-proof engines. I drive mine hard on occasion, and I'm sure others do too. These are not household appliances like a Toyota Corolla that you can run for 30,000 miles without so much as an oil change.
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bealzabubba (12-06-2020),
SunFlower (10-12-2020)
#12
This last weekend I stopped by the Jaguar Dealer here in Tulsa to see about having an O2 sensor replaced - P2275 Bank 1 Sensor 3 (Orielly's code reader). While I was there the parts technician commented to the service manager that I change my own oil at around 2500 mile intervals. The service manger then shared that he knew of a woman who has almost 800,000 miles on her Jaguar with no rebuild done to date. He did not specify what model or engine it was nor did I ask. Next time I see him I will ask and share it here. Said she frequently has the engine oil changed and I imagine she has had to replace many other parts/devices in the life of her auto and always with OEM parts.
To me, the cost of the replacement engine is well worth the $4-500 I spend on oil changes each year. Pretty sure my timing chain guides are the improved ones as stated by davetibbs.
I do check the oil level through the menu before every start. Thanks davetibbs, I learned a lot from your rebuild thread.
BTW - I drive like an old man most of the time but the next couple of days after leaving the dealer (appt. made) I stomped on the accelerator a few times and the P2275 code disappeared "Engine trouble light went out". Blew the carbon out is what I was told. (I have come close but I have never spun the tires). A day later I purchased the iCarsoft L600 V2.0 and was able to clear the stored code myself after Jaguar informed me it was ok to do it. No other codes present other then U0447 Invalid Data Received from Gateway A - Pending - this code is obviously the lack of communication to the start/stop battery which I removed from the vehicle.
To me, the cost of the replacement engine is well worth the $4-500 I spend on oil changes each year. Pretty sure my timing chain guides are the improved ones as stated by davetibbs.
I do check the oil level through the menu before every start. Thanks davetibbs, I learned a lot from your rebuild thread.
BTW - I drive like an old man most of the time but the next couple of days after leaving the dealer (appt. made) I stomped on the accelerator a few times and the P2275 code disappeared "Engine trouble light went out". Blew the carbon out is what I was told. (I have come close but I have never spun the tires). A day later I purchased the iCarsoft L600 V2.0 and was able to clear the stored code myself after Jaguar informed me it was ok to do it. No other codes present other then U0447 Invalid Data Received from Gateway A - Pending - this code is obviously the lack of communication to the start/stop battery which I removed from the vehicle.
Last edited by SunFlower; 10-08-2020 at 03:20 PM.
#13
Don't listen to all these people who say you need to change oil sooner than recommended, people think just because oil looks dirty that it is not good and that is not the case. Look in your manual but that is probably out of date info as oils are improving all the time.. Mobil 1 extended life is now good for 20K miles. That is what I just put in my rebuilt XFR. They say you should change it at least annually but that's up to you, mostly marketing I think. And Mobil 1 is the best oil, I personally know of at least one F1 team that used to put Mobil 1 in other manufacturers cans so they could look like they were using their sponsors oil at the track. Of course if you don't care about the environment or the cost keep changing it.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormance-0w-20/
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormance-0w-20/
__________________
Phil H.
2010 Jaguar XFR
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone
2004 Ferrari 360 Modena 6 Speed
1953 MG TD
1964 Mini van
2007 VW GTI
1980 Triumph TR8 x2
Small dog
Why not just get an oil analysis from aa lab like Blackstone. You can do a bit at intervals and you will see the predicted oil breakdown curve. Very easy with these cars because of the siphon in the fill cap
#14
Do my.own oil change??.can I attempt?
Its pretty common for dealers to change the oil as part of their dealer prep. Its cheap insurance against the buyer coming back too soon and insisting on a new engine. For purely marketing purposes, most modern manufacturers specify very long maintenance intervals to give the illusion that their cars are low maintenance. I don't recall exactly but I think the maintenance minder is set for something like 12 to 15K miles. I'm sure someone here can confirm. Of course that's based on the assumption that the original lessee is taking it to the dealer for service where they are sure to use the recommended spec oil for extended service intervals. I don't rack up a lot of miles so I do my oil change annually, which works out to between 6,000 and 7,000 miles. That seems to be commonly recommended among forum members.
I'm assuming you have the 5.0L engine. In that case you won't ever have to worry about the coolant change interval. Its theoretically good for 100K miles, but it will have been changed several times before then anyway with water pump failures along with each piece of PA66 nylon piping. Unless somebody used the wrong kind of coolant at some point, maybe after a previous repair, then its probably fine. Just look. If its bright orange and clear then don't worry about changing it now.
What is however very critical yet most people haven't a clue is the brake fluid. DOT4 Brake Fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the air. You'd think that your hydraulic system is sealed, and it is, only sorta. It does have a vent that will allow air in at the top to replace any volume that might leak out past worn seals below. Otherwise if it didn't do that, then it would suck air back in through leaking seals in the calipers or master cylinder and you'd get spongy brakes or worse. But over about 2-3 years, depending on your humidity levels, it absorbs enough moisture that you want to change it. Wish I had a dollar for every caliper or master cylinder I've opened up and found too rusty to be honed out and rebuilt.
I'm assuming you have the 5.0L engine. In that case you won't ever have to worry about the coolant change interval. Its theoretically good for 100K miles, but it will have been changed several times before then anyway with water pump failures along with each piece of PA66 nylon piping. Unless somebody used the wrong kind of coolant at some point, maybe after a previous repair, then its probably fine. Just look. If its bright orange and clear then don't worry about changing it now.
What is however very critical yet most people haven't a clue is the brake fluid. DOT4 Brake Fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the air. You'd think that your hydraulic system is sealed, and it is, only sorta. It does have a vent that will allow air in at the top to replace any volume that might leak out past worn seals below. Otherwise if it didn't do that, then it would suck air back in through leaking seals in the calipers or master cylinder and you'd get spongy brakes or worse. But over about 2-3 years, depending on your humidity levels, it absorbs enough moisture that you want to change it. Wish I had a dollar for every caliper or master cylinder I've opened up and found too rusty to be honed out and rebuilt.
#16
This is the first car that I've owned that is designed to be siphoned from the top so I went ahead and bought a 9 quart oil extractor. I actually love it. With the traditional drain plug and filter underneath, I always managed to spill some or at least get oil all over my hands. But with the extractor, you never have to touch any oil. Its the cleanest and fastest oil changes I've ever done. Some people on here still remove the undercovers and drain oil the old fashioned way, believing that its a more complete drain, but if the extractor leaves an ounce or two in the pan out of a seven plus quart capacity, that's really nothing in the grand scheme of things.
Now the only downside is the electronic oil level on the dash. Its basically the digital equivalent of an "idiot light". It doesn't give you a fine reading like a dipstick, rather it'll show that its "full" if its anywhere close. But I think because they do burn a little oil, Jaguar doesn't want the average driver checking a dipstick and freaking out about warranty claims when its down an 1/8th of an inch on a dipstick or one row of pixels on the gauge. The key is that the siphon is at a fixed level at the bottom of the pan, so if you siphon it till it sucks air and then pour in exactly the amount it calls for in the book, then you're good to go.
Seriously I don't know why anybody would pay a shop for an oil change. I can order the oil and filter online cheaper than a shop. And I can always do it myself in 15-20 minutes and be done. If I went to a shop, it'd take me 20 minutes each way, plus their time, probably an hour at least. And our city will recycle my oil for free.
Now the only downside is the electronic oil level on the dash. Its basically the digital equivalent of an "idiot light". It doesn't give you a fine reading like a dipstick, rather it'll show that its "full" if its anywhere close. But I think because they do burn a little oil, Jaguar doesn't want the average driver checking a dipstick and freaking out about warranty claims when its down an 1/8th of an inch on a dipstick or one row of pixels on the gauge. The key is that the siphon is at a fixed level at the bottom of the pan, so if you siphon it till it sucks air and then pour in exactly the amount it calls for in the book, then you're good to go.
Seriously I don't know why anybody would pay a shop for an oil change. I can order the oil and filter online cheaper than a shop. And I can always do it myself in 15-20 minutes and be done. If I went to a shop, it'd take me 20 minutes each way, plus their time, probably an hour at least. And our city will recycle my oil for free.
#17
[QUOTE=While I was there the parts technician commented to the service manager that I change my own oil at around 2500 mile intervals. The service manger then shared that he knew of a woman who has almost 800,000 miles on her Jaguar with no rebuild done to date. He did not specify what model or engine it was nor did I ask. Next time I see him I will ask and share it here. Said she frequently has the engine oil changed and I imagine she has had to replace many other parts/devices in the life of her auto and always with OEM parts.[/QUOTE]
yes, the engine was fine, but the rest of the chuffing car fell apart round about it!
yes, the engine was fine, but the rest of the chuffing car fell apart round about it!
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SunFlower (10-10-2020)
#18
I took my first long trip this past Saturday. Before leaving I checked oil level and it was full. After a 600 mile round trip in 8 hours (helping a neighbor) I checked the level the next morning and it was at 3/4 in the menu. I then added about a half a quart and it showed full again. I was very pleased with the performance on the turnpikes. I pushed it pretty hard and averaged about 85 m.p.h. The P2275 Bank 1 Sensor 3 code reappeared not long after I got on the turnpike so I will be keeping my appt. at the Jaguar dealer this morning to have the sensor replaced. Mileage averaged around 25.5 but I know if I had cruised at 65 m.p.h. it would have been more like 28-30. Very pleased.
Definitely a good idea to take the time to check oil level frequently!
Update - This morning I had the O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 3) replaced and also discovered that a software update to the PCM/TCM was also available. At no extra charge they updated the system and sent me on my way after I paid for the sensor and one hour labor. I also went to the Parts Department to get another quart of 0w20 to have as a spare and the parts manager brought it out and told me to "put my money away". Last time I was there for oil and filter I was given a very nice Yeti Jaguar coffee cup free of charge. Talk about great service. This dealership (Jaguar Tulsa) gets 5 stars from me. Their showroom floor only has one Jaguar and one Land Rover on display due to them having sold everything else. I was told that they do not expect have a full inventory until around February/March due to what covid 19 has done to manufacturing in the UK and the rest of the world. They said at times new vehicles can sit on ships for 7-8 months getting through different ports of entries.
Definitely a good idea to take the time to check oil level frequently!
Update - This morning I had the O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 3) replaced and also discovered that a software update to the PCM/TCM was also available. At no extra charge they updated the system and sent me on my way after I paid for the sensor and one hour labor. I also went to the Parts Department to get another quart of 0w20 to have as a spare and the parts manager brought it out and told me to "put my money away". Last time I was there for oil and filter I was given a very nice Yeti Jaguar coffee cup free of charge. Talk about great service. This dealership (Jaguar Tulsa) gets 5 stars from me. Their showroom floor only has one Jaguar and one Land Rover on display due to them having sold everything else. I was told that they do not expect have a full inventory until around February/March due to what covid 19 has done to manufacturing in the UK and the rest of the world. They said at times new vehicles can sit on ships for 7-8 months getting through different ports of entries.
Last edited by SunFlower; 10-12-2020 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Update
#19
Could not be more wron
[QUOTE=kansanbrit;2300246]Don't listen to all these people who say you need to change oil sooner than recommended, people think just because oil looks dirty that it is not good and that is not the case. Look in your manual but that is probably out of date/QUOTE]
change your oil on a 3.0 or 5.0 every 18-20k and you will be looking at some serious engine issues including a fried engine. Ive personally seen this 4 times and heard of it from many dealer mechanics
CHANGE THE OIL BETWEEN 6-8K Km.
change your oil on a 3.0 or 5.0 every 18-20k and you will be looking at some serious engine issues including a fried engine. Ive personally seen this 4 times and heard of it from many dealer mechanics
CHANGE THE OIL BETWEEN 6-8K Km.
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