I dropped the under-body protection off the SV8 yesterday to investigate the source of an oil leak. The seller must have given it one hell of a good wash before I bought it; I've done about 10,000km since purchase and there is oil everywhere underneath! The main source appears to be where the ascending transmission oil cooler hose is rubbing on a horizontal engine oil cooler hose at the front of the engine- this photo is from under the front of the engine and shows the hoses in strong contact with one another

I think this has resulted in a leak from the engine oil cooler hose at that location.

There are also minor leaks from pretty much every crimped hose attachment, such as these on the hose that connects the two oil coolers, as well as the o-rings at the coolers themselves.





Obviously the two sections of hose that are rubbing together will need to be replaced. As to the other leaks at crimped joins, does anyone have a solution to this problem other than a complete new set of hoses? Replacing the rubber hose sections whilst re-using the metal tube sections would be ideal, is there a way to do this with AN fittings or similar?

 

The oil and coolant hoses on these are known for their deterioration over time, they get to about 10 years and become brittle and leak in places. The best advice is to replace them all, you'll only be chasing one leak after another, and the more you disturb it the more its likely to fail. Worst case is that they fail whilst you are driving, at which point the engine overheats and destroys itself. I did all mine last year after finding a bunch of leaks in pretty much the same places.

 

Thanks for the reply fivel, I'll add this to the ever-increasing list of things that need doing on this car. Obtaining quotes now from parts suppliers.

 

ah, yes. This is the bane of my existence.

I'm not sure how many 4.2 SV8's they shipped in the Aus, but it was about 450 here before it was replaced with the 5.0l XFR. No one knows whats in them. Its a hybrid of XF chassis with an XK engine, and somewhere in the middle they meet with a specific SV8 part that converts one to the other.

I don't have the parts list anymore.

When I'm looking for parts I tend to start here: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/ as it has a good list of all the parts for the XF. The search engine on it is a bitch tho and unless you exactly what you want it can be a bugger to find it. However its a bit hit and miss on its accuracy on whether there is a specific variant for the SV8 or not so I then check the part numbers here: https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...sportbrake-c28 as they seem to have better info on what fits an SV8, but don't have everything. I also cross reference it with https://www.brit-car.co.uk/section.php/13854/1/xf to make sure. Sometimes you can find the same part on the Land Rover 4.2 HSEs. I compare prices across them but that will be less useful to you. You would not believe how hard it is to find the right oil drain plug, I've got 3, with the same part number but different threads and lengths.

The trick is to find the part number from one of those, then google it, most of the core engine parts will come up under the XK (X150).

I don't know how many miles yours has done or how it has been serviced, but it seems to be that by about 100K miles the thermostat will be shot and cam cover seals go (you should check the spark plug wells for oil).
I would also check the PCV and the hose that runs from the PCV on the cam cover to the throttle body as this become brittle as hell and gets tiny leaks in them (or sometimes just simply snap).

 

Thanks very much for those resources Fivel. I'm new to Jaguar so have not yet accumulated a bunch of sources for parts and information. I'd like to just give it to a specialist and ask them to give it a major birthday, but covid restrictions make that all but impossible here at present so I will probably end up putting it in the shed for a couple of weeks and sorting all this stuff out myself.

 

Advise you don't do that unless you enjoy the heart attack from an estimate well over what the car is worth. Safe to assume that at the 10 year mark, everything rubber or plastic will begin to need replacement. Don't worry, the car will tell you with whatever fluid leak, good to find a specialist that will allow bringing parts for the specific fault. It's kind of a rolling restoration project, same as any other EU lux barge out of warranty. Still I wager that any 4.2 Super is more worthwhile keeping on the road, less of a time bomb than the 5L with the water pump, or the timing chain guides, or oil starvation randomly grenading the motor.

 

Oh, I'd forgotten about the water pump. the secondary water pump for the supercharger will die on you as well, tho its a relatively easy fix, and you can change it for the bigger "performance" one.

 

Yes, the COVID restrictions gave me the time to dismantle it for a major 100K/120K mile service saving a ton of money at the garage but also consumed a lot of time and caused a number of minor injuries.

So far this COVID I've changed belts, cam cover caskets, faulty wiring looms in the boot, engine thermostat, PCV (and hose), SC pump, spark plugs, ball joint dust covers, O2 sensors, various air filters, the oil, oil filter, the fuel filter, patched the exhaust (whilst I work out what to do about replacing it) and cleaned the throttle body (it was very very sticky - oil had been getting sucked into the intake through the faulty PCV).

As long as you have a good selection of socket sets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2", various extension bars, universal joints and a torque wrench then its doable. The hardest thing for me was the drive belt, it weaves all about the engine and there isn't much space to play with. I should have done it when I had the hoses off as that would have given me a lot more room. I made a special tool to be able to release the tension on the pulley because there wasn't enough space to get it in the socket and move it without hitting another part of the engine.

 

common problem. changing them to n


ew OEM adds antoher 7-12 years. better to fix design flaw. i made them with silicone hoses with bolts. pressing is no good solution.

 

I very much like what you have done there- this is the sort of thing I have in mind rather than start again with the same sub-optimal arrangement as original. Are you able to give any detail of what fittings were used? I assume you have cut and flared the original aluminium tube sections? Do those fittings require a single flare, or a double flare like a brake line? Only difference would be taking it into town, as I don't have the tool for double-flaring.
I'm fortunate enough to have a very well equipped workshop, from socket sets through to lathe, milling machine, surface grinder etc but working on cars is not a source of enjoyment for me. This, however, is the sort of thing I could get my teeth into. Sourcing the necessary fittings might be a challenge.

 

Same car needed same job. So far only major repair I have had in 2 years 8000 km ownership, now 81000 km on clock cost me aprx $1000 Canadian dollars genuine jaguar replacement power steering cooling lines
Got estimate from closest Jaguar dealer and the more local independent garage I deal with they were about $80.00 lower at the independent but the actual final tally came in at within $10.00 of the dealer

 

i would not call anything(except engine and transmission) over 10+ year as a fault or broken. xf 4.2sc pretty much bullet proof. after 7-13(depending on climate zone and driving hot/cold cycles) years its just need to be refreshed to last another 10years or more.


whenever you purchuase 4.2sc do this job and you will be free from any major repairs

1) oil coller lines, recoat radiators if any corosion as well
2) gearbox cooler lines
3)new radiator pack and refresh fan. while working on them good idea is to change bearnigs for all idlers, tensioners and belts, water pump.
4) hose under charger, inspect other hoses
5)all 4 door locks -new or used from ~2015 or newer JLR change them even if they are OK. easier replace all in once.
6) boot loom wiring redesigning or at least replacing with new (not used) part.
7)remoove bolts from both driver and passenger seats and inspect all ecus for water damage,if needed clean and respray with protection. do the same for central and rear junction boxes.
8) usualy both engine mounts and gearbox as from 9psc xf 4.2sc all had soem kind of damage to them. USA versions of this car often have burned catalizators as well

a good idea is to change gearbox solenoids, hidroacumulators and oil, also rear diferential to new 2011+model from GKN (at same tiem both halshafts with main shaft as they have diferent mounting to GKN system) -usuely they leaks and or vibrate.

after all this you can enjoy car for next 5-8years with no suprises. its much more relaible than XFR

 

Yes this can fixed very cheaply IF you can DIY?

All you need to do is remove the factory crimped connections, replace the rubber hose with new hose and reinstall using 2 hose clamps placed in opposite directions. I use a Dremal tool with a thin blade and slice the larger diameter part of the crimped fitting so you cut into the rubber hose that will be replaced anyway. Then grab the split Al. crimp fitting with pliers and work it back and forth until you can tear the fitting off the Al. tubing. Now the rubber hose will just pull off the Al. tubing.

Here was mine. This is a 2008 XJ with the 4.2L NA engine.



Here is the tubing on the bench getting modified.



Now you can use the hose of your choice and almost anything will work that is made for hydraulics. Then I double hose clamp the rubber to the tubing. You can't see it but after removing the factory crimp connections the Al. tube has ridge on it to help prevent the rubber hose from coming off again. Sorry this is a bit blurry as it was hard to photograph up and under the car.



Here is the repair completed and the hose clamps do show if that's important.



Not a drop of leakage since the repair and many hundreds of dollars cheaper than anything else.
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I did the same as club BUT instead of hose clamps I used crimped clamps. They have better all around contact and are used by oem do they gotta work.

look for my post on it on my 06 Str. I have tons of pics

But first thing is get a bunch of HEAVY DUTY ENGINE DEGREASER (not the foamy crap and an assortment of brushed - long short thick thin and get under there and spray and scrub and rinse and repeat until you degrease EVERYTHING. Then drive it for a week and come back and look again. Youll see whats really bad and whats not

 

Thanks again for the replies. Clamping is certainly an economical alternative but I would not use those utilux-style worm-drive hose clamps in this application. There is a far superior clamp available that can be applied with basic tools, anyone looking to use hose clamps in this type of application I would recommend these type



I still like the AN type fittings as a professional-looking solution that provides ability to renew the flexible hose sections in the future.

I'm in the process of rebuilding a tractor front-end loader at present and will be getting a mobile hydraulic hose guy out in the next week or so to do the plumbing on that. I will talk with him when he is here about fittings for the Jaguar oil lines, I may even get lucky and he'll have the stuff I need in his trailer. Failing that, I will strip the hoses off and search Amazon for a package of AN fittings.

 

Check out my repair

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...2/#post2172398

 

Thanks Aarcuda, that looks very neat. How is it holding up, how many km / years without leaks?

 

about a 7 months. No leaks.

 

I've booked the hydraulic hose guy for Monday, will be interested to see what he suggests. Be nice if he has a drawer full of just what I need.

 

I've been working on this repair for the last couple of days. Getting in to the front of this engine is the kind of thing that reminds me why I started paying someone else to do all my mechanical work. We're back in covid lockdown so I thought I would attack it myself.
I've replaced the engine and transmission oil cooler hoses with new hose sections using the heavy-duty hose clamps as shown above, carefully arranging the clamps for clearance. It was very difficult to source 3/4" hose for the engine oil lines due to only being able to move around locally, If this ever needs doing again I'll gather the necessary AN fittings and braid before starting on it. I used 2-wire hydraulic hose which is really a bit rigid for the purpose, I've replaced all the idler and tensioner bearings and am waiting on a water pump and new belts to arrive so I can finish reassembly.