Park Brake Fault tried all methods
#1
![Question](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Hello,
I have the dreaded Park Brake Fault on my Jaguar XF 2008 3.0 NA, I tried everything possible from resets to module tricking, the park brake motor works, the button works, the module is functioning thing is I have no idea which is the cause now, could it be the rear brake pads? Here is what I did
- I removed both plugs from the module with the car without ignition then plugged them back on (which I would reason would be the equivelent of a battery reset) when I turned on the ignition the car asked me to apply the park brake, I applied the park brake, immedietly the yellow indicator showed and the park brake was actioned, when I wanted to decouple the park brake it worked as well I can hear the motor in both instances engaging and disengaging, but it stays like that and both indicators stay on with the red one flashing while on move and the car lights up two error Park Brake Fault and Couldn't apply Park Brake.
- Same scenario on a battery reset as well
Things I did so far:
- Equip the car with a new battery ( I thought it could be the cause if the battery was old, I know from my S Type if a battery is old the car acts up) to no avail.
- Check all fuses to see if I have a blown fuse ( Wasn't the case all fuses are in pristine condition)
- Check brake pads, the brake pads present themselves ok and they are a bit old but they still have "meat" left in them
I am at a huge question mark as of now because I have no idea why it acts up like this, one thing is certain that I won't have to buy a Park Brake Button and Module atleast.
Has anyone faced similar problems? I am thinking of taking the car to a shop to have the rear pads replaced and see if maybe that was the case. But until then I would like to know if there is a way. Also a thing I noticed with the Electroning Park Brake Module unplugged you won't be able to use the Cruise Control option, when I want to enable it, I get a error "Cruise not available", but when I plug it back in the cruise works without issue.
The main issue in Romania is that not a lot of mechanics are willing to try and repair this issue not even remove the Park Brake Motor because it's a hassle to do it, since it's above the rear differential and from what I read on the forums on the STR (Brembo Brakes) and the XF you have to unscrew the entire group so you have acces to the park brake motor.
P.S: I have the same issue on my STR, so if I can fix the problem on the XF the STR is solved as well. But I am slowly starting to think that it actually might be the brake pads on both cars.
I have the dreaded Park Brake Fault on my Jaguar XF 2008 3.0 NA, I tried everything possible from resets to module tricking, the park brake motor works, the button works, the module is functioning thing is I have no idea which is the cause now, could it be the rear brake pads? Here is what I did
- I removed both plugs from the module with the car without ignition then plugged them back on (which I would reason would be the equivelent of a battery reset) when I turned on the ignition the car asked me to apply the park brake, I applied the park brake, immedietly the yellow indicator showed and the park brake was actioned, when I wanted to decouple the park brake it worked as well I can hear the motor in both instances engaging and disengaging, but it stays like that and both indicators stay on with the red one flashing while on move and the car lights up two error Park Brake Fault and Couldn't apply Park Brake.
- Same scenario on a battery reset as well
Things I did so far:
- Equip the car with a new battery ( I thought it could be the cause if the battery was old, I know from my S Type if a battery is old the car acts up) to no avail.
- Check all fuses to see if I have a blown fuse ( Wasn't the case all fuses are in pristine condition)
- Check brake pads, the brake pads present themselves ok and they are a bit old but they still have "meat" left in them
I am at a huge question mark as of now because I have no idea why it acts up like this, one thing is certain that I won't have to buy a Park Brake Button and Module atleast.
Has anyone faced similar problems? I am thinking of taking the car to a shop to have the rear pads replaced and see if maybe that was the case. But until then I would like to know if there is a way. Also a thing I noticed with the Electroning Park Brake Module unplugged you won't be able to use the Cruise Control option, when I want to enable it, I get a error "Cruise not available", but when I plug it back in the cruise works without issue.
The main issue in Romania is that not a lot of mechanics are willing to try and repair this issue not even remove the Park Brake Motor because it's a hassle to do it, since it's above the rear differential and from what I read on the forums on the STR (Brembo Brakes) and the XF you have to unscrew the entire group so you have acces to the park brake motor.
P.S: I have the same issue on my STR, so if I can fix the problem on the XF the STR is solved as well. But I am slowly starting to think that it actually might be the brake pads on both cars.
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your doing good work BUT without any codes we are not able to help.
Your idea of replacing parts "might" be correct but it's an expensive way to troubleshoot problems.
Yes avoid replacing the EPB motor as it's above the rear sub frame and you have to drop that down to get the motor out. No fun and I won't even mention that if your in a rust area removing the rear sub frame will lead to even more repairs!
Good thing is with the switch operating the EPB motor it sounds like those parts are working correctly.
I had an STR and am very familiar with the EPB and no your pads don't have anything to do with this.
But I would follow up with this and at least remove one rear wheel and caliper to inspect for problems. You just never know. Now if the pads are worn then yes go ahead and replace them.
I bet you have one or more codes that will point us in the correct direction for repairs.
Can you get the car scanned?
Using what scanner?
Are you aware of the factory scan tool SDD?
.
.
.
Your idea of replacing parts "might" be correct but it's an expensive way to troubleshoot problems.
Yes avoid replacing the EPB motor as it's above the rear sub frame and you have to drop that down to get the motor out. No fun and I won't even mention that if your in a rust area removing the rear sub frame will lead to even more repairs!
Good thing is with the switch operating the EPB motor it sounds like those parts are working correctly.
I had an STR and am very familiar with the EPB and no your pads don't have anything to do with this.
But I would follow up with this and at least remove one rear wheel and caliper to inspect for problems. You just never know. Now if the pads are worn then yes go ahead and replace them.
I bet you have one or more codes that will point us in the correct direction for repairs.
Can you get the car scanned?
Using what scanner?
Are you aware of the factory scan tool SDD?
.
.
.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your doing good work BUT without any codes we are not able to help.
Your idea of replacing parts "might" be correct but it's an expensive way to troubleshoot problems.
Yes avoid replacing the EPB motor as it's above the rear sub frame and you have to drop that down to get the motor out. No fun and I won't even mention that if your in a rust area removing the rear sub frame will lead to even more repairs!
Good thing is with the switch operating the EPB motor it sounds like those parts are working correctly.
I had an STR and am very familiar with the EPB and no your pads don't have anything to do with this.
But I would follow up with this and at least remove one rear wheel and caliper to inspect for problems. You just never know. Now if the pads are worn then yes go ahead and replace them.
I bet you have one or more codes that will point us in the correct direction for repairs.
Can you get the car scanned?
Using what scanner?
Are you aware of the factory scan tool SDD?
.
.
.
Your idea of replacing parts "might" be correct but it's an expensive way to troubleshoot problems.
Yes avoid replacing the EPB motor as it's above the rear sub frame and you have to drop that down to get the motor out. No fun and I won't even mention that if your in a rust area removing the rear sub frame will lead to even more repairs!
Good thing is with the switch operating the EPB motor it sounds like those parts are working correctly.
I had an STR and am very familiar with the EPB and no your pads don't have anything to do with this.
But I would follow up with this and at least remove one rear wheel and caliper to inspect for problems. You just never know. Now if the pads are worn then yes go ahead and replace them.
I bet you have one or more codes that will point us in the correct direction for repairs.
Can you get the car scanned?
Using what scanner?
Are you aware of the factory scan tool SDD?
.
.
.
I have tried reading the codes using a normal OBD sadly there is no way to read such sophisticated codes apparently related to the Park Brake System, nothing will simply show up.
But in exchange I am willing to try out the Factory Scan Tool SDD, the real question is where can I find the software or where can I buy such a tool.
Maybe we will be able to extract some codes using the Scan Tool SDD and figure it out.
But meanwhile I will also clear up some time on my schedule to take it to the local Garage and inspect the park brake cables and external condition of eveey part related to the system, maybe it will only need some grease (HOPEFULLY) 😂😩
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
SDD is a HUGE subject and the moderators want us to keep it together if possible. Short answer is it's the Jaguar factory software and it was never released for public use. So it's a mess with little to no documentation plus a lot of confusion on what version to use and what OS to use and what laptop to use. You can work thru all of this to get a working system. But plan on taking some time and you will probably install and wipe the install several times before you get something that will work for you.
Some have little trouble setting it up so it's very much dependent on your level of software/computer knowledge.
Here is a good list to get you started;
SDD Search Results
Now you do bring up something I should have mentioned before but you did not tell me if your in a salt area or not?
The mechanical cables can rust and seize in place. The EPB motor will still try to pull the cables but can't because they are frozen.
Possibly a cable problem?
.
.
.
Some have little trouble setting it up so it's very much dependent on your level of software/computer knowledge.
Here is a good list to get you started;
SDD Search Results
Now you do bring up something I should have mentioned before but you did not tell me if your in a salt area or not?
The mechanical cables can rust and seize in place. The EPB motor will still try to pull the cables but can't because they are frozen.
Possibly a cable problem?
.
.
.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
SDD is a HUGE subject and the moderators want us to keep it together if possible. Short answer is it's the Jaguar factory software and it was never released for public use. So it's a mess with little to no documentation plus a lot of confusion on what version to use and what OS to use and what laptop to use. You can work thru all of this to get a working system. But plan on taking some time and you will probably install and wipe the install several times before you get something that will work for you.
Some have little trouble setting it up so it's very much dependent on your level of software/computer knowledge.
Here is a good list to get you started;
SDD Search Results
Now you do bring up something I should have mentioned before but you did not tell me if your in a salt area or not?
The mechanical cables can rust and seize in place. The EPB motor will still try to pull the cables but can't because they are frozen.
Possibly a cable problem?
.
.
.
Some have little trouble setting it up so it's very much dependent on your level of software/computer knowledge.
Here is a good list to get you started;
SDD Search Results
Now you do bring up something I should have mentioned before but you did not tell me if your in a salt area or not?
The mechanical cables can rust and seize in place. The EPB motor will still try to pull the cables but can't because they are frozen.
Possibly a cable problem?
.
.
.
I am not taking the cable situation out of the ecuation, if it's the cable I am getting away scotfree. Can you give me some informations related to the park brake motors? Do they tend to die out from use or are they reliable? I am trying to kill 2 birds with one stone, since the STR has the same issue, maybe I can figure out both of them. (Luckly I passed this year the Romanian MOT, they can fail you for not having a working parkbrake)
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well this is just my opinion but I did drive my 2005 STR as a daily driver for 6+ years and the EPB motor is NOT failure prone!
Note that does NOT mean it can't fail. But you said you can hear it trying to pull the cables so the motor is alive and well at least right now.
With what you have said I suspect the cables maybe partially rusted up? Just have to inspect and see as this is all a guess?
Again I would sure inspect all the mechanical stuff.
.
.
.
Note that does NOT mean it can't fail. But you said you can hear it trying to pull the cables so the motor is alive and well at least right now.
With what you have said I suspect the cables maybe partially rusted up? Just have to inspect and see as this is all a guess?
Again I would sure inspect all the mechanical stuff.
.
.
.
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turkay (10-30-2023)
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#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well this is just my opinion but I did drive my 2005 STR as a daily driver for 6+ years and the EPB motor is NOT failure prone!
Note that does NOT mean it can't fail. But you said you can hear it trying to pull the cables so the motor is alive and well at least right now.
With what you have said I suspect the cables maybe partially rusted up? Just have to inspect and see as this is all a guess?
Again I would sure inspect all the mechanical stuff.
.
.
.
Note that does NOT mean it can't fail. But you said you can hear it trying to pull the cables so the motor is alive and well at least right now.
With what you have said I suspect the cables maybe partially rusted up? Just have to inspect and see as this is all a guess?
Again I would sure inspect all the mechanical stuff.
.
.
.
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