Hi all



Looks like I need to do some plumping work on the latest addition to my stable. It’s a 2013 3.0 S/C AWD. In nice shape and always serviced at Jaguar, but its leaking from the infamous Y-pipes underneath the S/C.

JTB00566 suggests to replace the two pipes AJ813865 and AJ813917. Whilst the S/C is out I’ll also do the rear heater pipe C2Z31644.

For my car the JLR Online Ecat lists different part numbers for the above pipes, C2Z17675 and C2Z28536. Is that a simplification / mistake in JTB00566 (which is covering both 3.0 S/C and 5.0 S/C) or are the AJ numbers a substitute for the older pipes?



Somewhere I read that also the front cross pipe is prone to break, which one is that, C2Z21527 (part 16 in the attached diagram) or C2D21475 (part 14)? What about C2Z14540 (number 13)?

All those front pipes are relatively easy to get at, and they are all clean and not showing any sign of deterioration, so I probably will leave them alone unless you think that’s a bad idea.

I don’t want to fix stuff that is not broken, but then I also don’t want to risk the engine.



Thanks, Chris

 

Those part numbers are the updated part numbers from JLR. You can do the rear manifold while S/C out. All those other pipes you're talking about normally never break or leak unless you destroy on removal.

 

ok, thanks. So the AJ8 numbers are the ones I 'm looking for or the C2Z?

 

so to close this:
For the V-Valley Y-plumping: Jaguars official ECat / JEPC still lists 2Z17675 and C2Z28536. Do not order these, unless you want to repeat the whole procedure again in a couple years. Instead use the updated pipes mentioned in the JTB: AJ813865 and AJ813917. The upgraded pipes are different, but will fit without modifications. They do not require the aluminum connecting piece that was between the original tubes.

I did replace the rear crossover pipe while I was there already, however the old pipe did not show any sign of leaks. Perhaps thats a more prominent issue in hotter areas, or with the V8 where everything is a bit tighter. Anyway its new now.
I however strongly suggest to replace the small bleed tube that interconnects the water pump and the throttle body heating tube. That little black angled thing breaks easily while unmounting. There is an updated version available, C2Z28258G and C2Z26930. One leg of the latter is sealed and does not connect anywhere.

BTW, that’s how it looks like. I guess the reason why you never see coolant drips under the car is the small lake in that V-Valley. Coolant can't go anywhere and just dries out there.





cheers
Chris

 

Thanks for posting this Chris. From your pics and part numbers, I think this is the same 3.0 S/C engine that's in my 2017 F-Pace, right? I've had it about a 1 1/2 yrs. and this is the first issue.
had one of the plastic tubes fail also and caught it soon enough that I don't currently have any engine damage. But of course it needs to be replaced and I'm being told that the OEM parts have changed and don't fit the originals and I need to update all of the cooling system pipes and hoses because they don't retrofit. That sounds counter to what you mentioned in the OP.
I am leaning toward doing the work myself because the average estimate is $2000.
Can you tell me if I'm understanding which engine this is correctly and where you sourced your parts AND should I attempt this repair myself. I am fairly mechanically inclined and have fixed several other domestic vehicles. Just wasn't sure if a Jag really needs a certified person for EVERY issue.
Thanks again.

 

These should be covered under warranty if you're still within 5yr/60k miles.

 

Correct but I'm at 69k.😔

 

The JTB00566 only refers to F-type (X152), XF (X250) and XJ (X351), but I'd guess that also other vehicles with the same engine are affected, so there might be a specific JTB for your car.

The consensus is to replace the two tubes in the V-alley and while there, also replace the cross over pipe behind the engine. This is simply because it’s a hassle to access that cross over tube later. I also suggest to replace the small bleeder pipe at the water pump, but that might be different on your car. While you should replace the two intake gaskets, the intercooler gasket can usually be re-used unless someone ****ed it up before. That’s about 200$ in parts, depending on where you get it. Labor time is 4hours just for the two V-alley tubes for an experienced worker. I spent double the time including replacing the rear cross over tube and trying to fix the bleeder tube I broke while dismantling…
All other hoses are either not too difficult to get at and / or not prone to break early, so not really a need to replace them.

Since you are out of warranty only a little bit I'd try to talk to the dealer to see if they are willing to cover this, perhaps at least partially.

cheers
Chris