Thanks Ozxfr for the info

 

I think that my ZF also makes the same noise, either as you describe it, or as a secondary description, like a spring being "wound up". There is a return spring on the brake pedal, under the dash. I thought that this was what makes the noise, and I hit it a couple of times with a spray lube, but the sound didn't completely disappear.

 

Update:

Insurance agent said all four wheels wobbled(I still am at a loss on how they all are), so all are being replaced, I hope to pick it up tomorrow or Thursday at the latest.

As for the sound from the brakes I'll take a video when I get a chance, it doesn't sound like it's from under the dash. But if 20K miles is all I can expect from the brakes consider me highly disappointed, that is pitiful.

 

The XF rotors and pads are notorious for wearing out very quickly, especially the rears.
Two reasons - both the rotors and pads are quite soft, according to Jaguar deliberately so to maximise braking power, and the 'anti-dive' technology built into the braking system causes the rear brakes to bite earlier/harder than the fronts.
The stock soft brake pads (TRW brand) are also very very dusty and I found them to be too 'grabby' at low speed.
Changing to ceramic pads makes a huge difference, I put PowerStop ceramic pads on the old XFS and straight away the braking was far more progressive, the rotor wear was much reduced and the dust dropped to almost nothing. Admittedly I also replaced the front rotors, but only with standard type rotors, nothing fancy.
Unfortunately PowerStop don't make pads for the XFR brakes, so I've gone with Centric "Posi-Quiet" pads instead. They are semi-metallic, not ceramic, but the only ceramic pads I could find for the XFR brakes are EBD (redstuff or yellowstuff), they cost three times as much as the Centric pads, I've read some adverse reports about them, and my brake specialist recommended against them.

 

Aside from the noise I hear I don't feel any reduced performance which is why I questioned them needing replaced, they replaced my front rotors under warranty at around 15,000 miles as they said they were warped. I don't know about the rest of you but a brake job every 20k seems a bit absurd, it's not like I'm tracking it.

 

I still love the car, mind you, just a bit annoyed.

 

You know, it's amazing, my car is at the dealership for 3 weeks and then I get it back and the brakes feel like utter garbage when they felt fine before I took it up.

 

Oh and here is the grinding noise that they say I described to them...I said no such thing and as you'll hear it's not grinding and it doesn't sound good.

 

Reading through this discussion go me very concerned, as my XF started making "grinding" noises, too. I initially thought it was just rust forming on the rotor's surface, as I first heard the noise after washing the car, which creates surface oxidation on the rotors.


Last week, out of curiosity, I pulled the RR wheel off the car, and I was shocked to see how thin the rear pads have become, especially the inner pad. There are only 25,000 miles on the car. I've never had a car go through brakes that quickly!


I ordered PowerStop Evolution ceramic pads, and Beck Arnley rotors, through Rock Auto. So far, I have two of the rotors, and the pads. Turns out they were shipping parts from 3 different warehouses, so the arrival of the parts is staggered. I was initially going to order Centric Cryogenically treated rotors, and Akebono ceramic pads through Tire Rack, but they were out of stock on some of the rotors or pads, I don't remember which.


Reading about the wear sensors has me concerned. I don't recall seeing any wires for them on my car, and I don't see anyplace to attach them to the brake pads I received. On Rock Auto's website, they did list sensors, but then said they were for "European Spec cars" only, so I didn't order them. Hope I didn't screw up.....


And, as projects like this usually go, it seems that the rear brakes are the most worn, and it's the rear rotors that haven't arrived yet. The fronts got here two days ago, and the pads arrived yesterday.

 

Normal wear for an '09. No pad wear sensors were fitted to the '09 probably because new rotors are to be fitted with fresh pads according to JLR.

 

Thanks for the info!




Since my earlier post this morning, I checked my shipping confirmation from Rock Auto, and my rear rotors are supposed to be delivered today. Since I had the time, I went out and replaced the front pads and rotors, and am now having lunch. I'm truly shocked at how little wear there is on the front pads and rotors. As I previously mentioned, my XF has only 25,000 miles on it, and a casual calculation says that the front pads could EASILY last another 100,000 miles, if not a little more... while the rears are shot.


I printed out the "electric emergency brake calibration procedure" from another discussion on this Forum. Hopefully, I can work my way through it, without any issues.


Now if only the FedEx truck would arrive....

 

My brakes at 20k or so are noisy. A few weeks ago my car was serviced and dealer said they can't replace them under warranty unless the sensor lights come on. They apparently are close to worn, but not worn enough. Anyone else with a 2011 that had brake pads replaced under warranty, and were 8sensors indicators lit?

 

Update on my brake job....The FedEx truck arrived just after lunch, yesterday. My wife and I were meeting friends for dinner, so I had a "drop dead" time of 3 hours, to work on the car. I managed to get the rear disassembled and put back together, with only minor problems, that being the process of getting the caliper pistons wound back in.


I purchased a "high zoot" tool for this procedure, several years ago, for another car, and of course, none of the "adapters" would fit the Jag's pin spacing, on the piston. I even bought a Lisle Tool Company tool that fits on the end on a 3/8" ratchet, in case my other tool didn't work. Naturally, this tool didn't work either, but I managed to "re-engineer" it, to fit the car's piston, and it slipped on the other tool's threaded plunger.


Today, I went out and with fingers crossed, attempted to do the E-brake calibration. Surprisingly, it went without a hitch. I then hit the road, to "bed-in" the new pads and rotors, and that went well. I think I'm good to go....for another 20,000 miles........

 

Hello leadfoot4 ,

Glad all went well in the end for you
Just curious as to why you needed to do the " E - brake calibration "

Cheers ,

 

"mastersid", if I correctly understood the procedure that was posted in a couple of discussions on this forum, if the rear brakes are disassembled for almost any reason, the "calibration" of the e-brake's stroke on the pistons can be altered, causing either the e-brakes to not fully engage, or not fully retract when the e-brake is disengaged.


Secondly, in the case where you're replacing the rear pads, the new pads, in my case, were about 4-5 times thicker that the worn pads. Therefore, I first had to "wind in" the pistons, before I could get the calipers back in place. Consequently, the necessary stroke, to engage the e-brake was reduced by the increased thickness of the pads.


Also, when replacing the pads, you usually have to retract the pistons, therefore when you hit the brake pedal for the first time, the pedal goes right to the floor, as the pistons push out. After that, the pedal returns to it's normal, "hard" feel.

 

On manually operated emergency brakes using similar adjusters the calibration of the brake lever throw is performed by standing on the brake and operating the hand brake lever multiple times to run the adjuster up the internal threads taking up the clearance. I infer the EPB will do this automatically if you apply the EPB with your foot on the brake the first time you do so after renewing the pads. The EPB is applied by an electric motor which presumably can spin until the pad clearance is reset. Or dies the electric motor pull on a cable which then operates the EPB in similar fashion to a hand I ever pull? If the latter then it may take a few applications of the EPB to take up the clearance.

 

The E brake calibration is mostly used to reset the EPB module , It is not required when replacing rear disc pads .

Even though the hand brake is electronically activated , it's still a mechanical system , ie
a cable is pulled that intern pulls a lever that intern engages a spiral threaded piston . This lever DOES NOT ALWAYS RETURN TO THE OFF POSITION , this is a contributing factor of rear brake pads wearing prematurely on vehicles that use this type of hand brake caliper .

Citroen C5 and some later Ford Mondeo models also use this style of caliper and also have this problem .

Audi and Volvo have a similar type set up but uses no cables or levers , the electronic control motor is attached directly to the back of the caliper , they do not have any premature brake pad problems .

 

Just an update....The XF is my wife's "daily driver", of sorts, and she's retired from full-time work as an elementary school teacher. However, she does "sub" a couple days a week, here and there, and since school is out for the summer, the car hasn't gotten more than a couple of hundred miles put on it, since the brake replacement. However, the pads seem to have "bedded in" reasonably well, and the bite seems to be pretty good. It's a pleasure, not to see the wheels all black from brake pad dust, as it did with the OE metallic pads....

 

Hi,

I know that this thread is mostly about brakes but since I saw a few postings about damaged wheels I thought that I could pose my question here.

I own a 2015 V6 3.0 SC with AWD.

Last winter I rode over a water filled pothole which was filled from melting snow on the shoulder of rode. I was doing about 35 mph but really felt a hard impact when car struck pothole. I have standard 19 inch tires and both tires on left side immediately went flat. I had a little over 500 miles on the car when this happened and now have just under 3,000.

I needed to be towed since I lost two tires so the car was taken to a local shop of my choice near my house and not to Jaguar dealer. After checking out the damage the shop called and told me that I was lucky and just needed to replace the two tires and a slight adjustment to wheel alignment.

When I picked up the car they told me that the tires balanced without a problem and that car was tracking fine. I have been driving the car since all of this happened and I have not felt any difference compared to how the car felt before my accident. Now I am reading that a couple of you guys have been riding around with bent wheels and never even knew about it since your cars were performing normally. It is now over 6 months since I hit the pothole and my car is still riding fine. No high speed shimmy, vibrations, etc. etc.. How would I know if the wheels on my car were damaged since some of you had no clue that you were been driving with bent wheels? Also, there are no marks on the outside of the wheels. Thanks for your advice.

Ed

 

Since your car is an AWD, it might be a little different, but if you can get the car on a lift, just so all 4 wheels clear the ground, put it in gear, with the engine running, and visually observe how the wheels look, as they rotate, I would think that would be good enough.


If that's not practical, my second suggestion would be to go to a shop that has a dynamic balancer, remove the wheels, and have them placed on the balancer, and again, observe how they appear, as they rotate.