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Rear door is closed but info system thinks it is open
Searched but did not find anything, may be because I am not sure what to search for.
I opend the rear passenger side door to remove a small box and when I closed it, the car still thinks it is open.
The door is shut, but the car won't let me lock the doors and the dome light stays on.
Looked for a door switch but it must be internal in the door latch mech. It is by cold here but I have not washed it in a week so it is not due to a washing and then freezing.
I have the trickle charger on it and will take it to the dealer tomorrow first thing, but I always like to go knowing a bit about what is going on to be better informed.
Yes, this happens to me occasionally. I then open and close the door again and it goes away. If not, start the car then it goes away.
I asked the dealer about this when the car was in for routine service and it had done this a couple of days prior. All I got was "unable to duplciate condition at this time." If it's still doing it when you bring the car in to the dealer, maybe they'll get to the bottom of it.
This morning it was OK, until I opened the door once, then it was messed up again.
Took it to the dealer, they started working on it, but after 20 minutes, the issue went away and they could not duplicte it. (but they did see it messed it)
I have the car back, because I have too many things to do the weekend to have it in the garage, now I just am not opening it until next week, after I get past this busy weekend.
Hi guys and galls,
Did anybody find out what the actual problem was ? as a friend of mine has the same intermittant fault we have changed the whole door lock assembly and the problem is still there, it all works ok opens and closes locks and unlocks light on light off no door open on dash and then it will suddenly decide that the door is unlatched allthough the door is physically latched shut and gives the unlocked indication on dash and of course you cannot set the alarm as it thinks the door is open, then as suddenly it will all work ok, we have subjected the vehicle to rough driving road conditions in case it might be a bad connector or loose wire but as long as the fault has not triggered it will not repeat by the above method but if you open the door (LHR) and close it the fault might trigger itself, or not as the case may be, think it is a logic signal problem myself but how can i confirm it? as does not show up on diagnostic.
so if anybody has any ideas much appreciate if you would post or PM me (my friend does not have much hair left)
thank's in anticipation
Anyone get to the bottom of this. I had to change the lock in the summer as the lock mechanism was broken. Common fault door would not centrally lock. Replaced the whole lot with a new lock and it was working fine for a couple of months but now the door warning system is telling me the rear door is open and I cannot lock the car. I just get the double beep telling me a door is open. The internal light is on so I switch this off but still it does not lock. Had all the door lock out again but cannot see anything physically wrong. No loose wires. Help needed.
Frustrated from Torquay.
So I had a very productive day stripping the door lock out of my 2013 XF Sportbrake again. Rear left hand door lock which I had replaced for a new unit in the summer when it had the fault where it would lock but not unlock on the remote.
This time I had a problem where the same door lock would not lock on the remote. I was getting the double chirp sound and it was showing up on the dash that this door was not closed properly. I had tried slamming the door, locking it from the inside, swearing at it and although the latter was strangely cathartic it did not solve the problem and I was unable to lock and secure the car. I took the lock out, a long and fiddly job involving T type screw drivers and hidden screws that you can learn about on you tube and fiddled with it. Opened and closed the lock with a screw driver, shook it and then stared at it for a long time and low and behold I did something because when I plugged the electrics in it started working again. "Harrah" I hear you shout "but what did you do?"
No idea!
So I put it all back together and tried to lock the door and had the same fault still. Double chirp and an indicator on the dash saying the door was still open.
ugger but at least this told me something. The fault was an intermittent electrical fault not a permanent fault with the lock. So whilst taking it all back out again I had a thought and realised there must be a switch that is telling the on board computer that the door is shut or in my case that the door is still open. Sat with the lock stripped down on the dinning room table (The wife was at work) and found that there is a small micro switch triggered by the door catch as it closes. Mine appeared to be stiff and once in the open position the spring was not pushing the bar across far enough for the door catch when closed to switch the micro switch off again. I gave the micro switch a spray with the trusted WD40 and worked the switch and lever back and forth until it was once again lose. Rebuilt the door catch and plugged it in to the electrics and tested it. Worked a treat. Reassembled the door and tried it again in situ and low the Sun shone and all was well in the world, well the door lock worked anyway.
So what causes this intermittent fault is a pesky little micro switch which is a bitch to get to but once lubricated works fine.
Glad you got it fixed but to correct an error up thread? SDD will find and identify which door lock is causing the problem. So it does set a code but it's pretty deep in the car.
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Once you have the door lock mechanism out there are four T20 screws you undo to give you access to under the cover and to the micro switch
These photos show the Micro switch and the trigger button which is operated by the white lever. The white lever in turn is operated by the door catch mechanism. I sprayed the trigger switch with WD40 and worked it in and out just to free it up. The white lever was moving back and forth but once it had been opened it was then failing to return far enough because it was stiff to operate the trigger switch again to show the on board computer that the door was actually closed.
Micro switch with lever Micro switch without lever
The Micro switch opens and closes the circuit between the first terminal top left row and the second from left terminal on the bottom row. Not that this information helps only to test that the micro switch is actually working.
The micro switch opens between these two terminals in the connector.
Glad you got it fixed but to correct an error up thread? SDD will find and identify which door lock is causing the problem. So it does set a code but it's pretty deep in the car.
In this case the SDD code would be pretty useless to be truthful. The fact that the dash is already telling us which door is open as the micro switch is not closing the circuit when the door is closed is a dead give away. I already knew it was my left rear door and the SDD might give me a code but it would only say "Rear door not closed" which would be pointless as what you want to know is why is the dash showing my door to be open when I have slammed it shut and which bit is broken.
I had this same issue (intermittently) a few weeks after replacing the whole mechanism. Having stripped it out again I found that the lever which activates the microswitch was just too stiff, even after the application of WD40. So instead of replacing the mechanism [again!] I simply removed the end of the plastic lever with a hack saw (after having configured it in the 'door closed' position), thus the microswitch is now always depressed regardless of the actual door lock position and the light has been extinguished, allowing me to lock my car again! I hope this helps someone in the same position.
Mine is fine for now but if I have the same problem I would just bypass the wiring in the plastic plug so the circuit is permanently closed. It does nothing other than tell you the door is open which it obviously is not so bypass it and no more problems. (But only on that door.)
This has happened again to me on the same door so today I will be mainly taking the door to bits again. This time I think rather than try and lubricate the micro switch or jump the electrics I think I might super glue the micro switch in the door closed position so it cannot happen again. More to come.
So just spent 4 hours stripping this bloody lock out again.
The problem is as before a sticking micro switch. To be truthful it is not the micro switch that is sticking it is the lever that is sticking so it is pressing on the switch and not releasing.
The set up on the switch has two white plastic leavers one inside the cover and one on the outside which mesh together over the top of a black plastic post. The inner white lever has a tight fit on the post and a spring which is supposed to pull it back away from the micro switch. Problem is the lever is too tight on the post and no amount of lubrication will allow the lever to rotate as it should with the really weak spring that has been fitted.
Having fiddled long enough and realising that lubrication would only be a temporary fix and no having a stronger suitable spring as a replacement I decided the lever had to go. The inner lever cannot be removed without snapping the post but the out lever can be removed and this is the one that connects the door latch to the inner lever so when the door is closed the micro switch is depressed telling the ECU that the door is closed and can be locked. Without the lever the Micro switch is always in the "I am closed" position so the ECU will let the car to be locked. Removing the lever does not in any way affect the working of the door lock itself. It was easier to remove the lever than try and hot wire the electrics to gain the same effect.
Below is the white plastic lever that I removed from the outside of the box. For the first time since Christmas I can now lock my car.