Where are all the Jaguar techs here when you need one?....I can tell you where..they are sick and tired of all the expert wanna bees on this subject...Jaguar is quite clear about the spec of the oil to use..Simply follow the manual and you can't go wrong (Period)..If you are OUT OF WARRANTY, then you can put in camel **** if you want...

let's move on, this subject has been beaten to death

 

What experience do you have that indicates cutting the factory recommended interval by ~50%?

 

[sigh]

Party pooper!

There's always someone who comes along and wants to be sensible.

You're entirely correct, of course. But that won't keep the rest of us from having our bit of fun! Oil debate lovers of the world are united in their refusal to be silenced . The archives of every car hobby forum on the internet are testimonials to our love affair with motor oil.

Just be grateful the topic isn't religion or politics


Cheers
DD

 

I know Doug...But this topic will go on and on and on until the cows come home..I bet there is alone on this forum, 100 or more threads on the topic...

Debate tire types for crying out loud...Jaguar is quite specific about the oil while under their warranty...and if you are under their warranty, I seem to recall the first 3 or 4 oil changes are on them anyway...and besides...Talk about the pros and cons if you may, but, the average shade tree DIYer can't even change these cars damn oil anyway..so what's the point, the dealer is gonna use what is best anyway...I guess HiGeorge (Drew) is the only one that takes his dealer the wrong type of Castrol (Edge or syntec) and they put it in for him anyway..go figure.

Okay nuff said..I guess I've learned to just except what TATA says for now, I can't afford a voided warranty...I get my first of four free oil changes this August..So the subject is moot.

 

DPK-
One reason to continue the dialog is to identify an oil that meets the spec and does not come from the dealer at $15.00 per quart. While there appears to be none out there right now, I suspect that will change. And it will be educational to learn what magic dust is in this oil, besides marketing. Maybe we will hear reports of what the dealer says when they see a cooked engine. BTW, there is a drain plug. The dealer techs just don't use it. And you can buy a "top of engine" oil changer for $50.00 or so. A good one goes for $150.

Vapour Trail:
I think you originally stated that as long as the oil matched the manufacturers spec, you were fine. Then the thread driffed to any synthetic. Who matches "WSS M2C925-A" beside Castrol? Not Redline!

The Jaguar prescribed oil has a dye added that is obvious under blacklight. While I agree that it would be very hard indeed to prove that another synthetic oil with the right viscosity caused an engine failure, the fact is the manual and their verabal instructions to me, and their "written statement" all point to them crying foul if another oil is in the engine when it fails.

Now, as to what oil I use after the warranty, I will figure that out during the next three years by determining what, if anything, is really different in the prscribed oil. I sure hope there is an alternate source by then!

 

FYI Sparky..I paid $8.50/qt for the Special Jag oil from the dealer, that I posted earlier in this thread, not $15.00/qt..

And as far as the drain plug..it only drains a partial amount out, not the entire load...

If you don't mind, I would like to see a link or reference to this Oil change vacuum Pump you mentioned for $150.00..

 

Well, the "better" one I saw was at a local auto parts, but Harbor Freight has one that will work the 20 or 30 times I expect to change my XF oil:
Search results for: 'oil change'
If you are too proud to use a Harbor Freight tool (I used to be!): try Amazon:
Amazon.com: Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus: Automotive
Low end, but will probably work just fine, although you would have to dump in the middle of the job:
Oil Extractor Pump / Vacuum | DR Power Equipment

The price I was quoted by Hennesy here in Atlanta was $15.00 OTC. If the Castrol can be bought from the dealer (or anywhere, for that matter) for $8.50, then its pretty much a no - brainer to use that.

And no drain, vacuum or otherwise will get ALL of the oil. It looks to me as if the sump drain will get as much as any sump. Or, drain there and use a standard siphon pump like you use to fill a gearbox to get the last drip.

And it seems like you are developing an attitude about this. I am basically agreeing with you, only adding what I have experienced.

 

The problem with Castrol goes beyond what the manual recommends and how much it costs from the dealer. Memories die hard and there are many car enthusiasts who simply do not trust Castrol no matter what the manufacturer says or recommends.

There are three kinds of base stock that are used in motor oil formulation. API Group III are refined petroleums. Group IV are Polyalphaolefins artificially created from scratch by combining dual-carbon Ethelyene molecues to the exact medium chain hydrocarbons sought as a desired lubricant. Group V are Polyesters -- again artificially created. Traditionally, only oils which contain nothing but Group IV and V basestock can be labeled as synthetic. Everything else is at best a Synthetic Blend.

In the 1990s, Castrol tried to pull a fast one by selling oil that is largely Group III based -- albiet using some of the most highly refined Group III basestocks with PAO like qualities -- under their Syntec brand. They got sued by other manufacturers (Mobil amongst them) for false marketing, although the NAD of the BBB sided with Castrol in the end, many enthusiasts refuse to use Castrol oil as they felt "cheated".

There are many who will not use Castrol Oil or any oil that is not 100% PAO and PE -- "true" synthetics if you will. Personally, if I have a choice between Castrol and Mobil 1, I'll always pick the Group IV and Group V comprised Mobil 1. This is especially true of a 15,000 mile drain interval lubricant. From a technical standpoint, any oil that is M2C945-A is in every way superior to a oil that is M2C925-A qualified. I'll be perfectly happy with the 5W-20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance. In the AJ133 Supercharged engine.

 

No Attitude, sorry if I came across like I did..I just hear so many variations I wonder who to trust..

Last time I asked I heard the Sump Drain plug will not let all of the oil drain out, and I'm talking more than a drop or two...Then I see (on these very forums) from a supposed JAG-TECH that sucking it out is the only way...Blah, blah, blah...

Now you're saying either way will work too...Can I ask without risk of sounding like I have attitude..Have you even changed your own oil in your XF yet, using your methods?..Which way have you done it and how did it go as far as resetting the oil change reminder message? ..as that is suppose to be a dealer only deal too, total oil added, etc and of course please shed some light on how the oil filter change went too.?

As far as the oil..I will buy it from the dealer as it is even cheaper there than Castrol Edge is at PepBoys.

Thanks IN Advance

 

No, I have not changed my oil YET. ( I only have 4000 miles) But I did have a look at the bottom on the engine. In fact, I took the beauty covers off and looked at all of the outside of the engine.
As I said, I will use my oil changes from the dealer during the warranty period. When I do get to the point of changing my oil, I will probably drain at the plug, then suck to see what I get.

I like Mobil1, or Royal Purple, but I have no axe to grind with Castrol on principles, so if thats what they say to put in, then I will let them put it in.

And I do agree with Doug... People are sure funny about their oil. Just read the Rotella threads..."It works in my big bad truck, so it MUST be good for my big bad Jag-u-wah!"

 

Cool..I am in the same boat as you then..I have 4 years from now to worry about my first DIY oil change...By then, maybe the oil of choice will be peanut oil..who knows..LOL

 

If the engine manufacturer says: use this oil, then use it.

 

I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W20 instead of Castrol SLX Professional. It has a higher specification rating and quite honestly, after what Castrol pulled in the 90s, I don't trust them.

There is no cause for any warranty worries given that you are using a similar viscousity synthetic with and equivalent or superior specification. If Jaguar attempts to deny warranty for this they are in direct violation of the Magnuson-Moss warranty act.

 

I don't think anyone will dispute Amsoil is the best..However it don't even come up to Jaguar specs..5W-30 (OEF)

• API SN (Resource Conserving), SM...
• ILSAC GF-5, GF-4...
• Ford WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C929-A
• Chrysler MS-6395
• GM dexos1TM (supersedes LL-A-025, 6094M and 4718M)

..but also hard to find...

So with a little candid comparisons, Amsoil put themselves up against some of the leaders...Mobil 1 isn't the holy water that some think it is, especially in the four-ball wear test.

this is interesting.. Deluxe Oil - Tests

 

Thousand will- but who cares? The cars certainly don't.

 

Priceless


Cheers
DD

 

There was a big oil company merger after which Mobil 1 became an Exxon product.

In Canada the Mobil 1 specs are Imperial Oil specs (Imperial oil is the Canadian subsidiary of one of the seven sisters known as Esso).

Since at least that time Mobil 1 has not been the oil it was.

After Castrol beat the rap and established that "fully synthetic" oil was a type of snake oil and successfully proved that their refined synthetic was indistinguishable in practice from manufactured synthetic there has been confusion among some members of the public about what synthetic oil actually is.

Manufactured synthetics are made from petroleum products just as Castrol is.

What makes or breaks a modern oil is the additive package, not how the base stock is made. Synthetic oil is oil made from molecules refined out of ordinary crude or assembled from other petroleum feedstocks to ensure only certain types of lubricating molecules are present. It doesn't matter which method is used.

Less additives are required and the end result is an oil which remains stable and consistent for long periods of hard use, much longer than any currently specified drain interval. Contamination and filter capacity now determine oil change intervals. The oil doesn't break down.

Castrol currently makes top quality synthetic oil and no other oil maker is bold enough to sue them again.

 

Well, I had an engine that ran Castrol Synthetic and it blew up so, it must be bad oil....
And so on and so on!

 

Exactly. Oil is oil, pretty much. Filling your sump with oil meeting the engine manufacturers specification or, if reliable brand name oil is used, meeting the oil manufacturers recommended specification for your engine if they give one, is essential. Other than that and despite the claims, good quality oil is interchangeable.

 

My goodness, lots of opinions on oil, so I will throw my two cents in, I have owned 6 Jags, and my kitties use Wolf’s Head full synthetic. It has been used in muscle cars and racing circles for 100 years. Meets and exceeds all manufacturers requirements and I change it every 5k miles to be safe. My 4.2 supercharged XF loves to run with the Wolf. I live in Florida and this oil is also made and packaged in Tampa, FL. For me, I keep it that simple, support local business, the formulas are legendary and they exceed all factory requirements. I also use a local shop to service my Jag and my GTO. They are privately owned, and fanatics about engines and trannies, and about 45% less expensive than the local Jag dealer.