Thank you for reply much appreciate it and do think it’s gonna fit Jaguar XF 3.0d 2012 model thank you I advance

 

I’m not sure this will fit on yours, as the part I gave is for the 5.0 SC. I could be wrong though

 

Thank you very much for your help anyway

 

I’ve done it just to confirm it will fit on 3.0D too the same part as for SC. Thanks guys

 

First, thanks a TON to everyone who has contributed to this thread, as well as the other related threads. And, sorry in advance for the book below, but hopefully the info might help others with similar issues...

About a year and a half ago, I started getting some nasty noises and vibrations from my '11 XFR with 51K miles on it. I was getting bad shudder at highway speeds, bad thunking going over speed bumps, etc. I started getting the shudder before the thunking, and thought it was either the XKR wheels I found at Salvation Army for only $175 total and had cleaned up for another $150 (no bends, just curb rash, and it was fun to put on some different wheels) or the new aftermarket brake rotors and pads (StopTech slotted rotors with EBC Red pads). Plus, I was always getting damaged wheels and tires from all of the steel road construction plates around Atlanta, so I got the wheels/tires checked and rechecked and they were fine. Then, I spent a ton of time trying to remedy any issues with the brakes, but nobody could find anything wrong with them. I even paid for high-speed balancing and to have the rotors balanced on the car with the wheels/tires, as well as high performance alignment (Hawkeye Elite). Anyway, I never could get the shudder at highway speeds completely sorted.

Then, the thunking started. Living on a neighborhood road with 5-foot wide speed humps, it was painful to deal with. I eventually took it to a Jag dealer for service, which I'd been reluctant to do, as some of their techs, in their childlike fascination with some of the modifications I'd made, had previously damaged my car, but that's another story. Anyway, the diagnosis was that $6K+ of parts and labor were needed. I needed 1) a new driveshaft due to a deteriorated coupler (and we all know Jag doesn't just replace the coupler), 2) both liquid-filled motor mounts and the trans mount, 3) both front upper shock mounts, and 4) both liquid-filled front lower control arm bushings. Yay, me!

I was kind of annoyed at this happening at barely above 50K miles, but I realized a lot of it was probably self-inflicted by all of the performance mods I'd made to my car, so I couldn't really complain. But, since I also didn't want to just blindly pay $6K, I decided to hold off while I looked into whether it was possible to replace just the coupler vs. the whole driveshaft, and to determine how much of the work I could do myself. But, not really having the time or energy to deal with it right then, and knowing that I wanted to keep my beloved XFR for a LONG time, I decided to buy another car to run around in beat up. Since I needed a 4-door for my then six-year-old son and three boxers, I didn’t look at an F-Type, but did briefly explore picking up a newish XE. If Jag had made an XER, XERS, XE SVR, or whatever they’re calling their top of the line performance versions these days, I probably would've bought one, though (never mind the $190K+ XE SV Project 8 which Jaguar so graciously invited me to buy). Sad face.

Anyway, I'd always loved rally cars that could potentially endure the hell-like road conditions of downtown Atlanta, but didn't want a Mitsu/Subi or an actual hatchback, so I decided on a barely used Audi S3 Prestige for $29K, right before the brand new RS3s came out (I didn't want to drop $70K on an RS3 anyway, since it's essentially just a hot hatch without the hatch, although it is absolutely wonderful). I had zero initial intentions of doing anything to modify my S3, but quickly found myself dropping over $8K in performance parts/tunes and a few cosmetic upgrades, for which I did 100% of the work myself. There's just so much more available for more widely-sold cars that I couldn't resist. Poor me. I think my wife said it best when she said, "Wait, let me get this straight... you bought the S3 so you wouldn't have to spend $6K to get the XFR fixed by the dealer and you didn't have time to do the work yourself?" Me, "Yeah, that sounds right."

Anyway, that brings me to today, almost exactly one year later. I've done pretty much everything I want to the S3 except upgrading the turbo (another $3K+). I really love my S3; it came with quattro (fwd-based haldex with max 50/50 split), adjustable magnetic damping, LED everything (including headlights), and is currently sitting at about 400+HP while weighing about 1,000lbs less than my XFR. With launch control, I get to 60mph in a little over 3 seconds. It's just such an entirely different car than my XFR, and it's a LOT of fun in different ways. But, I still like my modified XFR better and really miss driving it for a lot of reasons (not least of which is the glorious sound of the supercharged 5-liter V8 - my poor turbocharged 2-liter S3 sounds like a fartbox, in comparison), and I REALLY want to get her back up and running again soon!

So, long story longer, and based upon this thread and others, I'm starting to acquire all of the parts I need. I bought a new driveshaft coupler (flex plate, guibo, or whatever it's called elsewhere), but want to make sure it's the right one. I couldn't find the aforementioned "SGF GAP01-003" available anywhere, and even though I'd read a ton of intelligent speculation that the coupler is the same on various other makes/models, I couldn't come up with any of what I'd consider hard facts which substantiated it with zero doubt. I went down an interwebz rabbit hole for several hours looking at CTS-Vs, Touaregs, Cayennes, X5s, etc., but couldn't really confidently confirm exact fitment with my XFR. I'd read that the XFR (and possibly other Jags) need a coupler with the following measurements; bolt pattern diameter of 110mm, 6 bolt holes at a size of 12mm, and a bolt sleeve length of 38mm with alternating bolt directions. I didn't see anything regarding rubber ridge depth between bolt pairs, etc., so I'm hoping that was all of the necessary measurements.

Additionally, even though the same German OEM coupler may also be used on other vehicles, it's usually listed as a different part number for each vehicle make, and I found it really hard to find exact measurements and specifications for them. If the information contained on the PowerTrain Industries website is correct, it provided some very helpful information, though: https://www.powertrainindustries.com...olt_circle_dia It contains SGF coupler measurements and corresponding SGF manufacturer part numbers for various vehicle makes and models, and I found a coupler with what appears to be the correct dimensions which is intended for a V8 Camaro between the years of 2010-2013.

I bought one for $85 on Amazon (SGF GAC02-004 - OEM German Made Flex Coupler - Bolt Circle 110mm/Bolt Hole 12mm/Bolt Hole Length 38mm - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...b_b_asin_title), and I've already received it. As advertised, the coupler is clearly marked with "SGF, Made in Germany," etc., all of which I'd read it would need to confirm it wasn't a cheap Chinese knockoff, although I'm not sure why they couldn't just stamp those words on theirs. I haven't broken out my calipers to confirm the measurements of the coupler I've received, and haven't taken off my OEM coupler for comparison, but even if they're a perfect match dimensionally, I still have some lingering questions/doubts, and maybe one of you technical geniuses can alleviate those concerns for me and anyone else who stumbles onto this thread. Additionally, if I find out anything else, either elsewhere or through my own measurements, I’ll add it to this thread.

I understand that the dimensions of the couplers seem to be easy enough to compare (when given), and maybe I'm foolishly reading way too much into this, but what I'm not seeing are any physical property measurements of the rubber for any of the couplers, i.e., specific gravity, abrasion resistance, tear resistance, compression set, resilience, elongation, tensile modulus, tensile strength, hardness, compression set, ozone resistance, fluid resistance, low temperature resistance, blah, blah, blah. This is certainly not my area of expertise, so I'm looking for some knowledgeable guidance.

Are all of the SGF couplers comprised of the exact same rubber characteristics, even when used on different vehicles makes/models which have different torque ratings, etc., or am I maybe missing something? If so, does the coupler I referenced above (SGF GAC02-004) and purchased appear to meet all of the appropriate requirements? Further and lastly, I noticed that in additional to a trans mount, which I also need, Bigg Will seems to have purchased new/different bolts, but then later says, ”Jag actually used the best hardware, so I re used it,” which confused me a little. Are new bolts required/recommended (I’ve gotten used to Audi using one-time use stretch bolts on pretty much everything, so I’m now a little wary), and, if so, can anyone provide the part numbers, links, or even the correct sizes and material? Is there anything else I’m missing or should be asking?

Thanks again to all who have contributed to these threads, as well as anyone who can add any additional beneficial information!!!

My bad report card from the Jaguar dealer from almost exactly one year ago:


SGF GAP01-003 from Amazon (currently unavailable):

SGF GAC02-004 from Amazon (the one I ordered):

My received SGF GAC02-004 from Amazon:

My received SGF GAC02-004 from Amazon:

My received SGF GAC02-004 from Amazon:

My received SGF GAC02-004 from Amazon:

 

[QUOTE=Bigg Will;1807649]Okay, so I did it today. Not a hard job at all, but kinda involved and yes it was time, not a night and day difference but DEFINITELY a difference.


The parts I started out with, Flex joint, Trans mount and some other bolts since Jag loves to use the dreaded torx bolts




Your going to need to get the car up on either rams or jack stands, You will also need to activate the emergency parking brake release since to remove all of the flex joint bolts the drive shaft must be able to turn. One or both of the rear wheels need to be off the ground (Yes its an open diff) to turn the drive shaft.


DO NOT START THE CAR WITH THE DRIVE SHAFT DIS CONNECTED.


Flex joint, Trans mount and Trans cross member.


The plate I use to jack against oil and trans pans. It only needs to be hand tight jacked against the pan. Once the trans cross member is removed it will drop about an inch.


Un bolt the cross member (4 bolt to body , 2 to trans).


Flex joint exposed, this also let me look at the drive shaft it total by using a mirror and flashlight to look down the heat shield. Yes it was time for a new flex joint.


The trans mount was also shot.

The rest of the drive shaft including the center bearing and rear Lobro cv, as long as the lobro cv remains sealed its usually good for 200kmi. The center bearing I may do away with when the time comes to replace it, for what jag wants for a replacement full drive shaft you can get a custom 1 piece carbon fiber drive shaft, so that might happen.



Before you separate the shaft from the trans mark the drive shaft yoke and trans output shaft, you want this to go back EXACTLY the same way you took it apart. Note the arrow on the flex joint points at a flange.


These bolts are on tight, the bolt side is 18mm, the nut side is 17mm always if possible loosen or tighten on the nut side and hold on the bolt side. I braced the wrench against the body and loosen with a 1/2in ratchet with a 12in cheater to undo the drive shaft bolts.




Removing the trans flange bolts requires 2 wrenches due to no room. once all the bolts are out push (Collapse) the drive shaft, it's a tight pull but the flex joint will come out though the skinny part. Put a little grease on the center of the new flex joint to help the bearing it rides on seat smoothly.


The old and new. The old one was date stamped may of 2009, so it's original. Note the bolt holders are staggered to protrude and recess, the protrudes fit into machined hols on the trans side.


After 9 years and 87kmi.


Put the the flex joint in with the arrows pointing at a flange, IMPORTANT the Trans flange is machined to receive the barrel of the bolt holder, so put all the bolts in but snug the trans flange bolts first so the all show this much of the bolt holder, then tighten the trans flange bolts and no bolt holder should show, then tighten the driveshaft flange bolts.



Installed the trans side will show no bolt holder sleeve. The drive shaft side will. Note the mark on the drive yoke and trans output shaft.



As I said the trans mount was shot too. it's a simple 2 bolt to change part


To get the trans cross member back in, mount it to the trans first then run the 2 front bolts 1/2 way in then by jockeying the jack and cross member you should be able to get the back 2 bolts in. snug them down.


Use the 2 alignment holes on either side and a screw driver to align the trans cross member evenly between them, once its aligned tighten the bolts. That's it..Driver side here


Pass side here.

I would say Jag got this one right as the wear item in the drivetrain is easily serviceable, that said if your V8 Jag is
Over 6 years old
Tracked
Has over 70kmi
or you drive it like you stole it, you need to check your Flex Guibo..[/QUOTE

On the way to thanksgiving dinner I noticed a vibration in my steering wheel at around 40mph. It’s gotten worse since. I had my dealership put it in the air and this part was noticeably worn. (Bad). So I know I needed to replace it. Which I had done today. The problem is, the vibration is still there and it’s pretty severe. The techs said they cannot find anything else wrong and I’m no closer to getting this fixed than I was before replacing the part. What else could be causing this? When brakes are applied, vibration stops. But over 40mph, feels like it’s about to rip the steering wheel out of your hands

 

Hi Gents ive been going through all these GUIBO posts and want to get one and have it changed. Im in the US so I would like to find something I can order and get soon. Where do I go and what do I order. seems GAP01-003 is not available saw someone order GRA 003110 did it work? Big Will I saw ur box where did u get it and what part number? Thank you all for educating a guy who gave up on GM sports cars and bought a XFR
Happy Holidays
I going to get the GUIBO and have the shop check the motor and trans mounts while they have it up

 

My XFR would occasionally shudder randomly at idle, I noticed it was actually a misfire. I changed the 8 ignition coils and new plugs and it seemed to go away.

 

It only took me a few years to finally get in there and inspect mine. Why does it look like it exploded? It'll heal itself, right?

 

Yep, that'll buff right out!

 

Hi guys,

Thx for your help I just did it on my 2010 XFR thanks to your post.

It was time :

 

 

Has anyone ever used a "guibo saver" or "guibo reinforcement kit?" I recently saw some of these available for other cars and it made me curious because I remember trying to find a stronger guibo made from poly or at least reinforced with something stronger than the OEM rubber for our cars when I was replacing mine (ultimately, to no avail), but I recently saw these when buying some parts for my Audi, and now I'm thinking that something like this could prolong the life of our flex discs/guibos/driveshaft couplers. What I'm not clear on is whether they actually serve much of a role besides preventing catastrophic guibo disintegration. And, as I'm not clear at all on the technical aspects, I don't really understand how they might still allow the guibo to flex and help "cushion" the connection, whether the added rotating mass is significantly detrimental, etc., but according to the various product pages/forum write-ups I saw, they don't increase NVH, which is hard to understand, but here's an excerpt from another forum:

"And there is no vibration from this design, like we've experienced with some of the "GTA" double cup designs.

The design is so simple: by putting the unsupported ends of the output flange and driveshaft bolts in double shear, the savers prevent the flanges from distorting and failing; and they also prevent the driveshaft from moving rearward and no longer being centered by the "olive" on the transmission output shaft.

If the driveshaft is centered on the output shaft it cannot whip and cause damage. If the donut is contained it cannot push the shaft rearward."

I didn't go down the measurements rabbit hole to see if any of them might be compatible with our cars, mostly because I just replaced my guibo, so it's not a huge priority for me right now, but I also thought that something like this shouldn't be hard to fabricate by a machine shop using some 2mm steel or something similar. I might even take my old guibo to my go-to automotive machine shop guy to see if he could knock a few out for cheap.



Additionally, these modular versions look like they would be extremely simple to make myself (it also looks like some factory guibos even come with a type of cage to which you can also add the "guibo savers")…





Anyway, whether I make some (or get them made by someone else) or not, I just thought I'd share.

Lastly, there are a lot of aftermarket guibos out there for other cars (just like every other performance option for every car but Jags), and some of them may actually fit Jags, but trying to find exact measurements is painful, because everyone just lists them for specific car models, rather than providing additional details. It it also doesn't seem like it would be hard to make a complete new guibo from some combination of poly/aluminum/rubber, etc. I only wish I had more time to experiment.