2010 XF 5.0 S/C
I have the dreaded coolant leak from the back of the engine. I am reasonably sure its either the coolant line that emerges from under the supercharger or where this line connects to the plastic heater crossover.

When I tried removing the tube from the heater crossover the connection disintegrated so I am replacing it.
I have pulled the S/C and can sort of get at it all (its quite tight back there) but I am stuck.

One of the hoses connected to it is from the A/C.
Dumb question - do I have to depressurize the A/C before the hose will disconnect or am I just not yanking hard enough?
Just to be clear this is the crossover.
Doing the big plastic replacement!-2016-07-10-20.07.58.jpg
Question 2 - The hose under the S/C - all the pictures of a new hose have one end is bigger than the other - has Jaguar changed this hose and can ordinary heater hose do just as well?
Coolant leaking, hose under supercharger.. YIKES-img_20130601_165342.jpg
All help greatly appreciated
James

 

Can you post a picture? You have some .jpg files listed above but no pictures came out?
I ask because you should not need to mess with the AC at all?
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Thanks for your help - pictures attached

 

There are no air conditioning related hoses connected to the rear heater pipe.

 

this tool helped in the removal of the 4 bolts holding it on
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hand-T...s%2C106&sr=8-3

 

Yes that rear water manifold only contains coolant? You should be able to pull the hoses off the nipples and replace it.
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You guys are correct - I pulled the hose off and sure enough coolant came out. I also ordered the slim ratchet above because trying to get the torx bolts out is tough - not much space. Finally I did find the part number for the hose that comes from the throttle body under the S/C and to the rear heater pipe - 2010 XF 5.0 S/C - AJ813614 - $36 from the Jag dealer - not too bad.
Thanks for the help - greatly appreciated.

 

I've mentioned this before and I'll do it more to try and spread the word. If you want to prolong the life of the components in the cooling system, periodically have the coolant cap checked to see if it is releasing pressure when it should and just feel the upper radiator hose when car is running and up to temp, it should not be hard, you should be able to squish it pretty easily.
Best of all, as I did a few years ago, throw away the 20lb cap, unless you are doing endurance racing and go to a Ford dealer and get a 16 lb cap for a modern Thunderbird. My car drives fine and the heater works fine with the 16lb cap. The only purpose of the higher pressure is to increase the boiling temperature. At the same time the needless extra pressure puts more stress on everything. If the cap is not releasing pressure, everything goes to **** pretty quickly. The cheapest part on the car is also one of the most important.

 

The pressure in the system should never normally reach the cap pressure so in normal conditions it won't make any difference which of those is fitted. They don't work like thermostats. They work like fuses.

 

I'm just speaking from my own experience. When I first got my car, the upper radiator hose was hard as a rock when the car was up to temperature and I thought that was normal. After replacing some of the plastic bits that failed in the cooling system, I finally had the cap checked out and it was not releasing pressure when it should, stressing out the plastic parts in the cooling system. Even with a functioning cap, with 20 lbs of pressure more plastic bits failed, maybe it was just age, but I was told that 20lbs of pressure is high compared to most cars, so I got a 16lb cap for a modern Thunderbird, which is very similar to an S Type underneath. No leaks or problems since then. The cap has a pressure relief valve, like on a water heater or a pressure cooker, not like a thermostat or fuse. Do what you like, but it seems to have helped my car.