Hi guys,
Time to tackle spark plugs. Since this job looks like it's going to be such an involved PITA to access everything, I am contemplating replacing the coil packs at the same time. I have not had any coil issues with my car (that I am aware of), but on my wife's BMW's they have failed repeatedly on the last 3 cars we have owned. Anyone had to replace their coil packs or done so as preventative?
I have viewed the threads on diy changes for the 5.0, but if anyone has any specific info for DIY on a 3.0 SC please let me know.
Thanks.

 

I had the plugs done at 104,000 by a local mechanic. not too difficult for him. I didn't change the the coil packs. the car is now at 130K+ no issues.

 

The steps are the same for 5.0 vs 3.0 minus two less cylinders.

 

Thanks. The best price on the coils was from the UK even with shipping, so I've got 2 weeks to study the other write ups.

 

well, I got everything apart, and the drivers side seems straight forward. Access to the coils and plugs is tight but not a mystery. i have to say I cannot understand any physical way to access the two most rear coil packs on the passenger side. The wire loom is directly over the packs, and even disconnecting the cam position sensor and other front wires does not give nearly enough play to even touch the coil packs, let alone get to the connector and getting it out would be a complete mystery top me. I have stared at it and tried to wiggle and pull the wire loom without screwing up one of the injector hookups but I just do not see how it can move out of the way. i do not want to be beaten by this damn car, but I also don't want to break it out of ego.
If anyone has done the coils and plugs on a 2014 SC 3.0 engine, please help by sharing the passenger side technique...

 

Are you still staring at it? Been a while.

 

this doesnt look good.....i just posted the exact same topic lol

 

the trick to getting to the passenger side plugs/coils/stoopid rubber isolator is to remove the large plastic shroud between the fuse box and engine.
it is held in place with 3 10mm bolts.
the rear bolt is accessible by removing the crossmember (4 bolts) and the left side of the plastic cowl.
the shroud has to be jerked out as it is held in place by a plastic "clip"
removing the shroud gives complete access to the coils and all wiring connectors.