Hello all! New member here, couldn't find the new member thread...
Regardless, I have a 2010 XF Premium, 66k miles, all maintenance done at 60. Recently replaced brakes, rotors and pads. Reset the EPB following the procedure found on countless other threads. I now have an issue with the steering wheel shaking/shuddering. It shudders/shakes no matter how many times I have the wheels balanced, the balancing just changes the speed at which it happens. Also have aligned everything, new tires, had the rims checked for trueness, mechanic sees no issues with anything.. Had a power steering flush as the fluid was black and burned. Also there's a "buffeting" sound at speeds over 60MPH, like the back windows are open.

Anyone else having/have had this issue and found a fix? At a complete loss over here!! Thanks all.


EDIT:
I checked the brakes, and with no EPB, no brake pressure, the rear pads are barely touching the rotors, but they are touching. Fronts are not touching at all. Could this be a cause? Drivers side rear rotor has decent grooves on it, none of the others do.

 

UPDATE:
A sharp enough turn equals no vibration while turning, and going down a sufficiently steep decline also equals no vibration. I have done the bedding in process several times for the brakes, tried the "resetting rear brakes" trick from Gus, gone lock to lock with steering endlessly, and continue to double check torque on lugs.

 

Sorry to hear of your issues. Can you clarify - the steering wheel shudders or the car shudders? And only when you are braking or all the time? Speed sensitive?

Lots of potential causes. Sounds like something may be up with your power steering. Or brakes. Could also be a hub

When did it start?

 

All the time above 50MPH, with braking magnifying it greatly. Under 50, unnoticeable if it’s there. Both the steering wheel and the car shudder over 60, 50-60 it’s almost exclusively the steering wheel.

No play in the steering at all, straight as an arrow even while vibrating.


Vibration at idle, which increases with revs. Specifically at 1500 RPM on the tach, the same buffeting sound I was hearing above 60 is there. This is parked, in park. Might try N to see if that solves it.

 

Hang on just a minute...
"Recently replaced brakes, rotors and pads."
"Drivers side rear rotor has decent grooves on it,"
... and you have only just replaced this rotor ????????????????????????????? WTF !
All my spidersense alarms are ringing..
Mate , sticking caliper, (or something in the brakes if not)- if you think you have ruled this out, please check again to be really sure this is not an issue . Then , check it again like 20 times.You absolutey cannot end up with "decent grooves" on a new rotor if all is good.
But- really difficult when we can't see what you *think* you are seeing... photos ???

 

...or, that Drivers side rear rotor is not spinning true for all the usual reasons....

 

Pics coming up! But a sticking brake wouldn’t cause issues at idle. So possibly multiple issues?

Been seeing reports of cracked exhaust creating the vibration and noise I hear between 12-1500 RPM.


EDIT: Attached images of rotor and tach within the RPM range.

UPDATE: Shop got back to me, said both upper, and both lower front control arms shot. Will replace and update. Wild they didn’t see it the first two times they inspected it.

 

It is all very strange, isn't it ? I also can't see how the control arms could give symptoms at idle unless they were basically broken into bits ?? Dunno. Yeh, I agree - that should have shown up with even a cursory "wiggle" .
Is this the same mob that did your brakes and rotors ? I'd be a little concerned if it were me. :shrug:

 

No, a different shop thankfully. This is the shop I bought the tires from. They balanced multiple times, rotated, aligned, warrantied out front tires for more expensive ones, and did this last inspection which clearly was more thorough and found the suspension stuff. The asst manager got his master tech to look at it finally and thats who found the bushings. The shop has been great so far, aside from clearly not doing an in depth enough inspection*.

Planning on getting these:
TrueDrive 2011 Jaguar XF Supercharged 8 Cyl 5.0L - Control Arm with Ball Joint Assembly, Front Upper Driver and Passenger Side SET-RJ28150003 (carparts.com)

TrueDrive 2011 Jaguar XF Supercharged 8 Cyl 5.0L - Control Arm Assembly, Front Lower Forward Driver and Passenger Side For RWD Models SET-RJ28150002-2 (carparts.com)


Will report back with results!


*the first time

 

If you're getting vibration at idle I'd suspect the engine mounts. Would check that out - the fluid can leak

Then moving it's likely control arms or hubs. Braking certainly sounds suspect as above if you've recently replaced rotors and got scoring in them.

 

I’m replacing the control arms and working from there. Agreed it would be strange for bad control arms to cause a vibration at idle. They said they checked the engine mounts and saw no damage, but I plan on checking myself when I’m working the arms.


My other thought is exhaust issues, cracked or otherwise. The buffeting sound is what makes me think that. Regardless, once the new arms are fitted and I check the mounts I’ll be in a much better position as far as knowledge.


There’s a jag Indy near me I’ll be speaking with about pressing the lowers instead of buying all new, but I’ll know tomorrow as far as pricing for that.


If mounts look good, control arm replacement goes well, and there’s still the same sound I’ll be looking at exhaust, then driveline. Vibration present in park, drive, and neutral so the converter shouldn’t be the issue.


Uppers ordered already, once I get an answer on pressing tomorrow I’ll either be ordering lowers or getting them pressed this week sometime.

Can’t wait to have this resolved!

UPDATE: Indy does not press lowers. Time to order some new ones! Sheesh. Anyone have a guide for control arm replacement? haha. I know there's a lot on the forums.

 

Update:


Front lowers arrived, uppers should arrive tomorrow!

 

This does create more questions than answers.
1. Damage to rear rotor?
2. "Also have aligned everything, new tires, had the rims checked for trueness, mechanic sees no issues with anything.. " I just replaced front and rear control arms, tie rods, stabilizers etc.. on the 2010 XF (Lots of fun ripping apart all the top components of the front as well as access to the back for the struts/shocks removal), funny how the alignment is done but only now noticing control arm issues. How could the alignment be done in the first place?
3. "Had a power steering flush as the fluid was black and burned" How much damage was done to the steering pump?

I would want to find out why there is the wear on the rear rotor, how the car was aligned in the first place with the damage to the control arm bushings, look into issues with the steering pump and then start looking elsewhere. I would also check for the tells on the tire/tyre wear.

 

Rear left rotor has 2-3 moderately deep grooves yes, I plan on taking it back to the shop who did them.

Very good question about the alignment, but I suppose it would only show how much play it has if they applied pressure to it which is how they discovered it. In the shop now getting the new ones on, can't wait! They're also inspecting the exhaust system to find the source of the buffeting sound at 13-1400 RPM.

The tires are all new, so not much if any wear to inspect yet. Steering has zero play, no noise from anything when turning lock to lock, other than the control arms knocking. Car tracks straight, but does tend to "slide" out when cornering. Planning on checking sway bar end links in the front, the bushings looked good on it when I checked them while looking at the engine mounts. Rear links were replaced at the same time as the brakes.

Now to wait and see what the shop finds THIS time.


UPDATE: All parts installed, have not picked up yet. The exhaust is cracked! That explains the buffeting sound entirely. Just the piping itself thankfully. Once that's fixed, hopefully there are no more noises of the sort.



UPDATE 2: Drives so much better with the new arms, the shaking is pretty much gone, very mild. Still vibration starting at 55ish and increasing with speed. Grrr. Brakes next! Then exhaust... Also found this: SB-10096901-1020.pdf (nhtsa.gov)

 

Glad to hear things are getting better. Good catch of the bulletin!

Hope all gets better soon you can just enjoy the ride.

 

I don't see a crack in the exhaust pipe? That is a connection point under the clamps and sooty water will drip from those connections normally.
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Thanks! And so do I! Had my transmission/engine deflector drop going about 60MPH today, so that was fun. Two bolts, neither with a nut or washer. Wild. I just wedged it back under the front deflector which should hold it until I can get the parts for it...







Behind the clamps rearward it does look open, does it not? That's what it appears to be to me, as well as the clamps themselves being less than optimal. Maybe this is just normal appearance?

 

So, I’m going to see if vacuum issues are the cause, starting with new o rings. Does anyone know the sizes? I haven’t been able to find them on my own, and I can’t just take all of them off to run into a store and compare haha.

 

O-rings for what? You have several problems and I don't know what the O-rings are for?

I think the exhaust looks normal to me? Always some black soot stains from the condensation leaking out. Is there any noise indicating a leak?
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The o rings are for the full and part load breather hoses, but the washers were in fine shape upon inspection.


As far as the noise, other than the booming/buffeting sound at 13-1400 RPM, no. BUT. I previously had an EVAP CEL for a few weeks, and I never reset the ECU via the battery disconnect method. I’ve done that now, and the shaking at speed is gone except for the steering wheel itself, which is most likely balance/alignment issues.


I looked at the inside lip of my rims and one of the front rims has a slight bend to it, which I’ll need to further inspect. But for now it seems resolved! I DO also know now I have a dragging brake which may also explain the slight steering vibration, and a whistling noise has presented twice now which is new.


As an aside, the engine/transmission catch pan/deflector that came off has two middle bolts that take 1/4” - 28 thread nuts, and a 1 1/4” washer is the perfect size. For anyone else having that issue.