Last week I had a problem with the XF 2.2diesel sportbrake. Wife was driving the car when all the lights came on on the dash and the engine stopped. Plugged the OBD and it came up with Low fuel pressure at the fuel rail. We thought we found the problem being a fuel pump working intermittently so it was swapped out for a replacement.
Today again the wife was driving when she stopped at traffic lights and the engine cut out like the stop start had cut in but the car would not restart. No lights on the dash at all. Had the car towed home and put the OBD on thinking I would get the same code but there is nothing. Fuel pump is ticking when you turn the ignition on, You can hear it. Fuel filter is full as I thought there might be an airlock. I disconnected the fuel lines going into the fuel filter thinking that is the fuel pump was pumping then fuel would spit out the pipes but nothing.
So a dilemma.
Fuel in tank. Check.
Fuel pump working. Check. But no fuel coming out of pipes leading to fuel filter.
Fuel in filter full. Check.
No codes showing on the OBD. Check.

Could this be an electrical problem with the injectors?
Should fuel be coming out of the pipes into the fuel filter (one is an inlet the other the return) so the lack of fuel might indicate a pipe off on the fuel pump? Or a blocked fuel pipe but why would the fuel filter be full. The engine would have drawn that fuel off surely leaving the fuel filter empty.
Any ideas will be considered. I am just off outside again to check all the fuses in case one has blown but not sure which one I should be looking at.

 

Checked all the fuses, nothing blown.
To check that it was not the injectors I sprayed a small amount of easy start into the intake manifold and the engine fired up for a couple of revolutions to I at least know that it is not a fault with the injectors.

A friend suggested that it might be the high pressure fuel pump. OK did not know it even had one but checking on E Bay there are some for sale so with the photo of the part I went looking. I found it right at the back of the engine basically under the front edge of the windscreen. Joy! There is a fuel rail pressure sensor there as well which I might change first. Cheaper and easier to get to.

Next question is has anyone had to remove their high pressure fuel pump on a 2.2 Diesel and if you have how please. I can see from the photos I have it has three bolts holding it in place and a couple of fuel lines but how do you actually get to it. Do you have to remove the panel covering the windscreen wipers to get to it and if so how?

 

Having spoken to a couple of mates today regarding this issue all think is is still the fuel pump in the tank rather than the high pressure pump. Possibly not the sensor or I would have a fault come up on the computer.
So I exposed the fuel sender unit again in the top of the tank. Access is from under the back seat drivers (right ) side. Small plastic bung that you remove. There is a metal ring you hammer off then the plastic top comes off. I have fuel in the tank and the pump is submerged. When I turn on the pump. The pump seems to pump as it is making a noise but there is no fuel getting to the fuel filter via the fuel hose when disconnected in the engine bay. Disconnected the fuel line on top of the sender and turned on the pump expecting fuel to **** all over the place through the pipe but nothing. The pump is making a lot of small bubbles from its housing inside the fuel tank which does not look right. To remove the pump from the tank you disconnect all the pipes and electrical wires, grab the black plastic housing and twist it anti clockwise. Spoken to a couple of people in the trade and they have basically said it is the in tank fuel pump. They pack up for a past time which is possibly why a. There are none at the main dealers. b. Why they are so expensive if you can find a new one. and c. Why there are no second hand units out there when you phone the scrappies. The one I bought second hand for £160 worked for a couple of days and then packed up. Same symptoms as the original. Contacted my local Jaguar dealer to buy a new pump but been informed that Jaguar do not supply the pump any more??? What??? Got the part number from SNG Barretts who also do not have any as they get their supply from Jaguar who no longer make them. Part number is C2Z18121 Fuel pump in tank. 2.2 XF Diesel. I have been searching the Web and found on E bay a brand new one being sold by a Landrover specialist in the UK. He had 8 left. Cost £324 but I had to bite the bullet and buy one as you cannot trust the second hand units to last very long. Comes with all new housing and sender unit as one. This is the link to the e bay seller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266462764304. Now waiting for this new part to arrive on Friday and I will let you know what happens once it is fitted. Anyone know anyone who wants to buy a low mileage XF Sport Brake. One coming available on Saturday.

 

The fuel pump in the tank is not a delivery pump. (XF 2.2D). All it does is ensure that the fuel pot in the tank is kept full. So you will get no fuel spraying out of the pipes in the engine bay while running the in tank pump.

The engine driven pump includes a lift pump which draws fuel from the tank via the fuel filter which is bolted to the side of the engine and to the high pressure pump and from there to the fuel rail and injectors.

 

Thanks for the info so in my scenario where I have fuel in the tank, Fuel in the pot, Fuel in the filter but the engine is not running what is the problem? Is the lift pump you are referring to the high pressure pump which sits on the back of the engine after the fuel filter? Is this the defective part? If not where is the lift pump situated and can you supply a picture of it please.
If this is the case do you have any idea on how you get to to the pump to remove and replace it? I have looked and the high pressure pump is so far down the back of the engine underneath the windscreen it is almost an engine out job unless I can some how remove the plastic cover that hides the windscreen wipers.
Thanks.

 

The lift pump is integral with the high pressure pump and is not easy to get to but is doable. Tou have to remove the windscreen wipers followed by the windscreen scuttle panel. One can then access and remove the solid acoustic/ firewall panels and the cross member. This allows you to get to the fuel pump but you do need a few different tools.

But before doing that have a look and see if you can read the fuel rail pressure in the live data section of your OBD tool. If it's a cheap and nasty dongle it may not have that option but it's worth looking. Then crank the engine while monitoring the data. You may need to crank for quite a while for it to register and you should she upward of 56000 kpa. If you do see this pressure, it means your high pressure pump is good. Do this first and then I can advise further.

I have recently repaired two 2.2D Jags with a similar starting problem and both were caused by one of more faulty injectors. Very easy to replace injectors on these engines but check the fuel pressures first.

 

Thanks for the info I will see of my OBD gives me the data on the fuel rail pressure tomorrow. With regards the high pressure pump you say you need some different tools to remove it. Would you care to expand on what different tools you need. I have lots of tools but would not want to start removing it if I need a special tool I don't have. On this engine if it was an injector do they have to be programmed to the ECU. I had an X Type previously and the ECU had to be reprogrammed to accept new injectors. Different engine but would like to know. How would you tell if it was an injector or is it a case of elimination. Ie changing lots of things in turn until the engine starts.
I appreciate your assistance.

 

Unfortunately I cant actually list the tools but there is nothing special required. Over the years I have collected many tools that one doesn't normally find in a DIY toolbox but all are available from standard DIY/motor spares shops. Things like wobble drive extensions, flexible handle ratchets, flexible head ratchet spanners, universal joints, etc. etc. I also have a good selection of 1/2 and 1/4 inch drive sockets (I dont use 3/8 much) and my favourite tool of all which is the rechargeable ratchet although it is a bit bulky for the fuel pump work. But I doubt you will need to remove the high pressure pump.

Injectors are supposed to be coded to the ECU but that is only for fine tuning and barely affect the running of the car. You can safely swap injectors all day long and they only need coding at the end of the job when all is well. I am fortunate enough to have many spare injectors so I simply replaced them all in one go but most people dont have that luxury. I recently helped someone with the same problem and he rigged up a leak off test kit on his injectors and discovered the single faulty injector.

Another possibility is a faulty pressure sensor on the fuel rail - there are 2 - but first things first, check the fuel rail pressure via your OBD.

 

OK plugged my OBD in this morning and it has a fuel rail pressure reading but in PSI. Cranked the engine over and it showed just 23.2 psi which is only 158.5 kpa. The battery is getting low but I cranked it for a good 15 to 20 seconds and the psi did not rise. I am assuming from this reading that the high pressure pump is knackered but then again never assume anything until it is confirmed.
As long as there are no specialist tools needed I have an extensive tool box with all the tools I need to remove and replace the high pressure pump it is just getting to it that concerns me. Presumably the windscreen scuttle panel is just clipped into place so is fairly easy to remove without destroying it.

 

My next step would be to check the fuel rail sensors. Make sure the connectors are good and I would clear all fault codes and then disconnect each sensor followed by reading the faults to see if your diagnostics detect that it is no longer connected. That will pretty much check the wiring circuit. You mentioned the low fuel pressure fault in your first post - if the sensor is giving the wrong info due to a internal fault, it wont necessarily give a fault code. I recall that I swapped the complete fuel rail on a non starting XF many years ago which solved the problem. One of the sensors was not working.

Do the easy stuff first. I would treat the high pressure pump as a last resort due to the difficulty in removing it. Everything else is easy by comparison.

 

OK after a couple of weeks waiting for parts and having the wrong parts sent, returning them and getting the correct bits the bloody thing still will not start. So doing the easy things first I have replaced the in tank fuel pump with a new one. Conflicting reports on the in tank fuel pump. Some say it is just for moving fuel between the two sides of the saddle tank and for filling the fuel bowl in the tank. Others state it pumps fuel to the fuel filter. Either way fitted a new one and same problem even though the fuel filter is full of fuel.
Put a new fuel filter in and primed it. No change.
Bought a second hand fuel rail with the two sensors either end. Fitted them but no joy. Someone suggested it might be a fuel injector but first to check if there was any fuel pressure at the rail. First I used a hand siphon to make sure the filter was full. Then I connected the siphon between the fuel filter and the High pressure pump and pumped fuel through until it started to come out of the return back to the fuel filter. I then disconnected one of the fuel lines from the fuel rail to an injector and spun the engine expecting fuel to come out of the fuel rail but nothing.
Spoken to a Jaguar independent garage and gave him the symptoms and what I had done so far and he thinks it is the high pressure pump but would need to do his own diagnostic first. He will have a look for me but cannot fit it in to work on the car until the 23rd of April........
I have a spare high pressure pump that I would fit myself but there is a heat shield on the bulkhead which needs to be removed to gain a little bit more access to get to the pump. I have found and removed three bolts towards the top and I can see two more lower down on the heat shield but cannot get to them. There appears to be several rivets in the heat shield but not sure if these are holding it in place or just holding the heat material to the plastic backing. Has anyone done this job before and removed the heat shield. If you have where are the bolts holding it in place and how many are there please?
Frustrated of Torquay

 

Firstly I would nervous of any advice given by those saying the pump in the tank pumps fuel to the filter - they clearly dont know the car or the system. I have personally McGyver rigged a rubber fuel hose from the filter all the way back to the fuel tank and had it dangling in the fuel for troubleshooting purposes. The engine ran just fine.

Below is a copy and paste from the Evoque 2.2D workshop manual. I dont have the official Jag manual but both these vehicles have the same fuel system. As does the Freelander 2 TD4/SD4.

The fuel delivery system incorporates a low and high pressure circuits to provide the engine with sufficient fuel for all operating conditions.
The Low Pressure (LP) system comprises:
Molded plastic saddle type fuel tank
Fuel delivery module (with integral in-tank pump)
Fuel level sensors
Fuel delivery and return lines
Fuel filter assembly.
Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the engine mounted fuel lift pump which is an integral part of the HP fuel pump.
The in-tank fuel pump does not pump fuel to HP fuel pump but supplies fuel to the two jets pumps on either side of the fuel tank to ensure that the fuel delivery pot is full.

A fuel lift pump is mounted to the rear of the fuel pump, and forms an integral assembly with the HP pump. The fuel lift pump is a gear type pump and connected to the fuel filter supply line. The lift pump creates a vacuum (negative pressure) in the supply line to the fuel tank, and draws the fuel from the tank. The fuel passes through the fuel filter and is then delivered at lift pump pressure to the HP pump inlet port.

When any of the fuel lines/pipes are disconnected/replaced, you may need to crank the engine for a considerable time to get the fuel to where it is needed. When you press the start button the engine will crank for a while and then stop automatically. One then needs to press start again for it to do another crank cycle and so on. You may need to do 5 or 6 or these cycles before it starts.(I dont remember how long each of these cycles is - maybe 20 seconds). I know that it does put strain on the starter and battery but I dont know of any other way of purging the system. I would suggest monitoring the fuel rail pressure using your OBD tool while doing this.

There is also a check valve in the injector leak off pipe system which is supposed to maintain a 10 bar pressure in the hydraulic chamber in the injector. I have not come across one of these failing but nothing is impossible.

In case you dont have it, you can download the Freelander 2 workshop manual from the link below which may help with your troubleshooting.
Look for Fuel Charging and Control to see the description of the fuel system.
https://getthemanuals.org/index.php?...Service_Manual

 

Regarding the heat shield, I cant point to the exact location of the securing bolts but there are also a couple of plastic rivets that need to be removed by first prying out the centre pin and then the base.

Any pop rivets you may see are not what hold it in place.

 

Thanks for the information. I will read and digest then go and have another look. I have plenty of time between now the 23rd of April to fiddle some more but I am slowly running out of patience and battery power so will have to recharge the battery before any more cranking.

 

Hello,
Did you ever solve this problem as I have a very similar issue with my 2013 XF sportbrake?
Was out driving with it and it seemed fine, sat at some temporary traffic lights for over 5 minutes, pulled away fine put my foot down and instantly the engine management light came on and said engine malfunction with a loss of power. Luckily I was only a few metres from my drive so pulled up, switched the engine off gave it a minute then switched it back on (cranked over for quite a while before starting) switched it off again left it for around an hour went to go out in it again and same problem, cranked a few times then fired up drove about half a mile to pick my son up from school switched it off/ on etc and no issues. Sat in the traffic lights (facing up quite a steep hill) set off fine then put my foot down and went in to full limp mode then just cut out totally. Will just keep cranking over now and not start, cracked an injector pipe aswell as the rail feed pipe and I’m not getting any fuel at all coming out. Personally I think my HP pump has failed but just wanted to see if anyone had any other insight which I might of overlooked?
Thanks

 

Yes in a way it was finally solved. I handed the car over to my Indy Jag specialist as he had all the computer gear to try and solve it. I had changed all the sensors on the fuel rail, put a new fuel pump in the tank and did many tests that showed I was not getting fuel to the fuel rail. I made the assumption it was the high pressure fuel pump and thought it wise to let the garage sort that one out. Anyway got the car to them and they called me back the following day to say the car was fixed and up and running. When I asked if it was the high pressure fuel pump he laughed and said no it was just one of the sensors on the fuel rail. (The smaller one on the front of the fuel rail). He said that he had noted that all the sensors were new as I had replaced them all but when he checked them with the computer one of the new sensors had also failed. No reason why just a new sensor that was duff. Replaced it with another new sensor and the engine fired up straight away. Frustrating to say the least as this duff £50 sensor had just cost me £400 in labour to do all the diagnostic work to find it was duff.

I said finally solved in a way as the car is now running fine but occasionally comes up with another fault that I have yet to address fully.

Every now and the then I get a low full warning and a fuel pump fault come up on the dash. The first time it happened my wife had been driving the car and I was not aware how much fuel I had in the car but the warning was telling me I had 6 miles of fuel left. Panic time as I drove to the nearest garage five miles away. Got to the garage and put what I would consider to be half a tanks worth in about £50. Got in the car to start it and the gauge is showing almost a full tank and over 400 miles. From this I determined the tank was about half full when the warning came up that I was down to 6 miles.
I now keep a regular check on the gauge and how much fuel I have as this has happened a couple of times and I think I might have a sticking or faulty fuel sender. The in tank fuel pump was renewed but the old fuel sender unit was used so I am going to have to pull the unit out of the tank and check it again.

Although I love this Sportbrake, the engine 2.2 diesel is great, the gear box so smooth, lovely design, comfortable and stacked with tech but unfortunately all run on dodgy electronics. Sensors are supposed to indicate that the thing they are monitoring is going wrong and should be replaced but all I have found is the sensors stop working, the engine shuts down and all that needs replacing is the sensor. Once I have sorted the fuel gauge issue the car is being sold. Not sure what to buy next but it will not be a modern Jaguar. I have less trouble with my 1968 S Type than I do with this XF.

 

Good to hear the problem was a simple one although it was not that easy to pin point.

The XF saloon suffers from burnt connections in the fuel pump plug which causes all kinds of weird faults including the fuel gauge problems. Its very easy to check - remove the main wiring plug (connector) from the fuel pump assembly and if anything is burnt or overheated it will be very obvious. Examine the terminal carefully - both where the wires enter and where it plugs on to the fuel pump assembly.

 

Ok will check them then, thankyou. Does the HP pump have a fuel regulator on it on these, is it possible if the sensor is telling it that there’s pressure in the rail it may of closed the regulator off not allowing any through? I’m just unsure why even a sensor fault would cause there to be no fuel coming through the rail that’s all.

 

Thanks for that I will check in the next couple of days and come back to you with what I find. Just out of interest which fuel pump plug are you referring to? The one in the fuel tank attached to the fuel pump or one else where on a ECU mother board somewhere?

 

Still looking to sell this bloody thing and then another problem rears its head. The car was going into what appeared to be "Limp home" mode but there were no warnings on the dash and nothing on the OBD. Symptoms were the car was driving along good as gold and then suddenly there was no power. Come to a hill and it would crawl up at 10mph. Felt like the turbo was not kicking in. Would not rev above 2000 rpm even on the dual carriageway so max speed was around 50 mph. When I got home it would not even pull up on to the drive (Slight incline) at slow speed. Next time I took it out the car drove fine for several miles and then back to limp home mode without any warnings showing.
First thoughts were Turbo or actuator. Bought a second hand unit off eBay and in the meantime started to strip off the old unit to see if I could check it. You can get to the actuator easily enough but to get to the Turbo you have to remove the fuse box and associated panels. There is then a heat shield covering the Turbo and you can get to all the bolts apart from it appears two which are under the fuel rail and cooler pipes. The replacement unit arrived and I had still not been able to remove the heat shield. By the looks of the replacement there are only three nuts to undo on the exhaust manifold and the Turbo would come off but you can't get to the bolts on the heat shied to remove that without stripping the top of the engine off. Stupid design.
I did manage to get to the Turbo and was able to check the float which was fine and the turbines were spinning as they should. I swapped the actuators over in case it was this causing the problem
Decided to put it all back together and drove it and the problem was still there. Still intermittent. One minute driving fine, next limp home mode before kicking back into normal driving. Never knew when it was going to run properly.
Having thought about it for a long time I wondered if it was a gearbox problem so booked the car in for a transmission service. Oil and filter change which needed "Special" oil so cost £480 and it looks like the problem has been solved. Low oil level in the gearbox not producing enough pressure so the gearbox was telling the ECU to cut power. No warnings in any diagnostic checks but the car is back to driving perfectly.
The car has done 80k mile, there is no dipstick for the gearbox oil level, no electronic dip stick like the engine, the only way to check the oil level is to top it up. Problem with this is the filler is tucked up on the side of the gearbox with no gap between the filler and the side of the gearbox tunnel. You also need a special either Allen or star drive key for the filler plug, (not sure which one as you can't see it) so doing the work yourself is almost impossible hence the price tag of £480.
Anyway problem solved and the car is going on Friday before something else breaks down.