When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stuck in Park - Shifter rises, all the buttons work..stranded
I've done a fair bit of reading on this and other forums and haven't quite found the answer, lots of hints but not an answer for my situation.
Left work today, car started fine, shifter rose but would not allow gear selection. IE, the shifter is 'locked' out from being able to rotate Over a bunch of scenarios including:
1. gentle tapping
2. push brake, start, release brake, press brake and attempt shift
3. push brake, start, attempt shift
4. push brake, start, release brake, press dsc/dynamic mode buttons (they light up) and shut down and/or shift iterations
5. push brake, start, shut down, get out, lock, retry everything else
6. add cycling park brake into scenarios
7. try paddle shifting in hopes it would cause something to reset
You get the idea, I tried odd combinations to see if something would reset.
Reading says:
1. There was a shifting problem in the early XF's after '09, the predominant issue to seems to be shifter functioning normally but rotating it does nothing. IE, the transmission isn't responding to a message that the mechanism is failing to produce. Recalls ensued and parts replaced - NOT MY ISSUE
2. Diode comes loose and needs to be resoldered on shift mechanism, NOT MY ISSUE, NO POWER TO UNIT IN THIS SITUATION
3. Power supply failures to shift mechanism - NOT MY ISSUE, lights up, rises etc.
4. Misc 'Jaguar Drive' issues that produce errors - NO ERROR GENERATED
5. Brake position sensor fails
I'm left thinking the brake position sensor is inoperable for some reason. There are JAG Tech type docs that ask the tech to push the brake pedal, verify light activation as well as use the dealer software to verify that brake pressure has been applied and produced a pressure of 1 to 7 bar.
All I'm left with is to:
1. Verify the brakes activate the brake lights (hoping its the same sensor that disables the shift lock out). Also further investigation on this one.
2. Pull battery cable and leave for a couple hours.
3. If the brake lockout mechanism is done in the shift mechanism, I'll need a new shift unit.
Took the car apart today after a tow. The removal process is relatively clear from the posts that are already online but I do have some observations and questions.
The impression that the posts if been reading is that the entire assembly needs to be taken apart so one can work on the board. As in, completely apart, there are several posts detailed the reassembly challenges.
I got to the point where I was ready to do the destructive task of removing the cap for my shift knob before realizing that this is not the case. If you can get the unit out of the car, the only additional things that need to happen is pulling off the black board cover, optionally removing the two plugs to the board, and get on with the solder repair.
There's an odd mechanism for the park brake, one benefit of leaving it all together is less questions about whether tha will work properly after reassembly.
Pics of when I had more than necessary apart. Note that if there's another issue on the board, you still don't need to take the knob off...raise the knob and rotate the board for access to most of it.
Here's what each side of my resistor looks like, if I hadn't read this linked post I would not have entertained that this was the issue.
Good Side Bad Side
My question is, should I attempt, as a caveman solderer to heat this solder or turn to an electronics shop? The generalist in me says, heat it up and it will bond, the nerd says the solder is eff'd, remove the existing solder and perhaps the resistor and do this correctly. I don't even want to mention what a good condition unit costs at this point...but If you're in the UK and willing to help I'll pay you double the purchase price to put a great condition unit in my hands if this doesn't work out!
Took the car apart today after a tow. The removal process is relatively clear from the posts that are already online but I do have some observations and questions.
The impression that the posts if been reading is that the entire assembly needs to be taken apart so one can work on the board. As in, completely apart, there are several posts detailed the reassembly challenges.
I got to the point where I was ready to do the destructive task of removing the cap for my shift knob before realizing that this is not the case. If you can get the unit out of the car, the only additional things that need to happen is pulling off the black board cover, optionally removing the two plugs to the board, and get on with the solder repair.
There's an odd mechanism for the park brake, one benefit of leaving it all together is less questions about whether tha will work properly after reassembly.
Pics of when I had more than necessary apart. Note that if there's another issue on the board, you still don't need to take the knob off...raise the knob and rotate the board for access to most of it.
Here's what each side of my resistor looks like, if I hadn't read this linked post I would not have entertained that this was the issue.
Good Side Bad Side
My question is, should I attempt, as a caveman solderer to heat this solder or turn to an electronics shop? The generalist in me says, heat it up and it will bond, the nerd says the solder is eff'd, remove the existing solder and perhaps the resistor and do this correctly. I don't even want to mention what a good condition unit costs at this point...but If you're in the UK and willing to help I'll pay you double the purchase price to put a great condition unit in my hands if this doesn't work out!
You need to add some flux to get a good joint when reheating. Then clean the flux from the board with isopropyl alcohol after it's cooled.
It's probably assembled with lead-free solder, and some of them don't mix with other lead free solders properly, if you happen to have old fashioned lead based solder with rosin core on hand, you could just add a tiny bit of that ( lead solder has a lower melting point and will alloy with pretty much any lead free one, so may save you using quite as high a temperature ), but really just a adding a bit of flux should be sufficient.
If you've soldered any circuit board before, and have a temperature controlled solder station I'd not expect you have any trouble, just don't go using a 60W+ iron with no temperature control . If you've had no practice I suggest getting some scrap electronics to practise on first.
Personally I'd not use hot air rework as there's no need to remove it i.e. no need to heat both ends at one, and sticking with a traditional soldering iron, you've no risk of heating adjacent components, and blowing then from the board.
Found an electronics repair shop today, he didn't want any money but I give him a few bucks for helping me out. Here's the after photo, he threw some flux at it and added some solder. Its not sexy but it works...looks like it got pretty hot.
Could have done it, now that I've seen it I'd do it myself. Saved myself $1,100-$1,300 minimum on the part alone vs 'discount' online pricing within Country. Used units were in really really rough shape.
Honestly, now that I know that you don't need to take the unit totally apart to totally free the board up, and that I've torn the console apart, I could do this job in an hour. Took me about three taking my time being careful.
If you're mechanically inclined, don't be intimidated by this job - she's up and running!
One point that the interior disassembly videos don't show is that there are tabs on the console side covers, I yanked pretty hard till I could tell they were there.
09-13-2023, 11:19 PM
Stuck in Park - Shifter rises, all the buttons work..stranded
