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Supercharger Off - Preventative Maint. (Cooling System, Plugs/Coils/, SC Upgrade

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  #1  
Old 07-21-2021, 09:27 AM
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Default Supercharger Off - Preventative Maint. (Cooling System, Plugs/Coils/, SC Upgrade

Hi All,

I am posting again due to my thread getting derailed by other people who are experiencing plastic component cooling system failures. Everyone will have to due this service eventually. Please do not post "my car is leaking coolant everywhere, help" in this thread. I'm hoping this can be a resource in the future.

What I am looking for:
  1. Parts List of MUST REPLACE cooling system items that are likely to fail. (My y pipe has failed, hence the need to remove supercharger). I have spent several hours here and would appreciate any input on parts numbers whether universal or R specific.
  2. Other preventative maintenance items that should be done while I have greater access to the motor. Plugs/Coils? Is this significantly easier to do with the supercharger/intake manifold off? I will be following this guide https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-145292/
  3. Supercharger upgrades?
I ordered both the solid coupler and two new bottles of fluid (AC Delco 10-4041) Guide to replace https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...or-diy-179095/
  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/11111781395...4AAOSwiE1b2mZf
  2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/11076116518...353.m2749.l264





My 2011 68k mile Blackpack R.

From another forum member.

Order of disassembly

Disconnect battery
Lift car up
Take off both under panels
Loosen the radiator cap
Drain radiator from drain **** using nickle coin in vice grips
Remove the big 17mm allen nut from left side of engine to drain
Remove wiper arms
Remove main cowl
Remove the cross bar
Remove the secondary cowl
Remove the fuel line cross
Undo the connector for vacuum line on the right side of engine
Remove the fat hose above engine from the air filter box
Remove the air filter covers, remove the lower air filter box
Remove the elbow for the intake in the front of radiator
Remove the intake cross in the throttle body
Remove the throttle body but leave the hose
Remove the 10 screws for the intake manifold
Pull intake forward and remove the electrical connector, then remove from car
Remove the header tank
Remove the hose in the lower radiator
Remove the upper radiator hose
Disconnect the hose going to the right side metal
Remove the hose into the transmission cooler
Remove the 4 screws holding on the thermostat and crossover plastic
Remove everything else connected to the water lines
Pull out the thermostat and all the hoses
Remove the water pump
Remove the plastic crossover for water pump
Remove the rear crossover
Remove the electrical and both water hoses from crossover
Clean the intake valves
Clean the throttle body and the maf sensors
Remove and replace the idler, tensioner, and belt
Replace all the plastic and hoses and reassemble
 

Last edited by VicVegas84; 07-21-2021 at 09:36 AM.
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2021, 04:34 PM
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Well I got around to the rear crossover pipe, front crossover, water pump and the plastic pipe running to the oil cooler, and thermostat housing. None of them show any visible signs of failure.

Are there any other parts that have failed for others? I replaced the expansion tank about a year ago when my problems began.

 
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Old 09-25-2021, 09:20 AM
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I don't know if this will help, but my mechanic is suggesting regular coolant flushes to keep the coolant from turning too acidic and deteriorating the plastic components of the cooling system.
 
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Old 09-25-2021, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vfrman
I don't know if this will help, but my mechanic is suggesting regular coolant flushes to keep the coolant from turning too acidic and deteriorating the plastic components of the cooling system.
The issue is really just heat cycling. The plastic is heated up and cooled down again and again and ultimately that makes it go brittle and crack under the pressure.
 
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Old 09-25-2021, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BritCars
The issue is really just heat cycling. The plastic is heated up and cooled down again and again and ultimately that makes it go brittle and crack under the pressure.
It seems most of plastic components, main failure points have been replaced at some point, including the water pump. They all look in good shape and the water pump was the new style (at least not FoMoCo, the made in Italian part).

I disassembled the water pump and vanes were fine, no crusty leakage by the pulley.

Going to lose my mind on this job. I figured it was for sure the rear pipe when I started this job. Then figured it was the lower Y pipe, then the Water pump and/or the connector tube behind the water pump to oil cooler. None appear to have failed.

Pr

Praying now that it was this small plastic part off the throttle body as this is the only part with any crusty coolant stains on it. Thinking it may have come loose.

What I'm dreading is it's combustion gases from a blown head gasket/warped head/block that's pressurizing the cooling system as I have read of other similar failures though mostly on NA 5.0's. I have never heard of a head gasket failing like this before. All the plugs looked identical, and I don't remember it ever smoking so I don't believe I'm burning any coolant.

What I do know is my coolant leak seemed to get progressively worse. And I could smell it burning in the cabin after WOT as of it was dripping on hot engine parts.

This would all seemingly stem from a coolant expansion tank that was slowly weeping that then failed spectacularly with coolant spraying all over the bay and out of the cowls in the hood while driving. I noticed bubbles on the tank at the time which would seem to be pressurization. I replaced the tank and did not have any further issues (noticeably) until probably a thousand miles later when I noticed coolant on my driveway, then noticed after another drive it was considerably worse.

Just praying it's not a bad head gasket...
 
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Old 09-25-2021, 03:58 PM
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What's the status of your oil? Thought typically with a blown head gasket you get milky white coloration in the oil
As you say, not common on that engine. So hopefully it's a leak somewhere (much more common...)
 
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Old 09-25-2021, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BritCars
What's the status of your oil? Thought typically with a blown head gasket you get milky white coloration in the oil
As you say, not common on that engine. So hopefully it's a leak somewhere (much more common...)
No cross contamination. Looking at the heads and water jackets I can see how you could blow at HG and not mix oil and coolant.

Seems rare even on these motors but not out of the question.
 
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Old 09-25-2021, 06:31 PM
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Fingers crossed it's just a leak. But so many places it could be that it's a bit of a hunt. But sounds like you're losing enough that it should be evident when you find it!
 
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Old 09-25-2021, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BritCars
Fingers crossed it's just a leak. But so many places it could be that it's a bit of a hunt. But sounds like you're losing enough that it should be evident when you find it!
I'm going to leave off the NVH panels on the coils/fuel rail as well as the bulkhead style cover protecting the fuse panel, and the under tray to see if I can more easily identify the leak. I did find this on the water pump tonight which I believe is the weep hole. Maybe I'll luck out and it's just the water pump. Fingers crossed.

 
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Old 09-27-2021, 07:02 PM
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Given the water pump failures on these I would definitely just replace that anyway while you have it all apart. And the connector it joints to as well

I'm on my third water pump in 10 years.
 
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:23 PM
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I am replacing the rear crossover, lower front Y pipe, thermostat/housing, and water pump. I replaced some vacuum lines, namely the diverter looking valve rubber hose which literally crumbled when I removed it. I did spark plugs, and cleaned the carbon off the valves. I also recently replaced the expansion tank.
 
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Old 09-28-2021, 09:38 PM
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if you have it open don't assume there fine, replace them with new style no seems version
 
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Old 09-28-2021, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis black
if you have it open don't assume there fine, replace them with new style no seems version
The coolant pipes coming from the front of the block on the earlier cars are aluminum.
 
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Old 09-28-2021, 09:59 PM
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I have the 4.2 so no real help for your model except this. Replace or super inspect every rubber and plastic hose or doohickey you can see and use perfect seal or aviation liquid gasket on all gaskets and rubber rings. Just a thin coat. Works on metal great also
 
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