SUPERCHARGER porting
#1
SUPERCHARGER porting
OK, so I have the lower and upper pulley done,
so JUST TO make sure the XFR runs a EATON 112M right, what generation??
dose Anyone have info about porting this charger, Posibly Picks of BEFORE AND AFTER, I am thinking of getting a new or good condition one, porting the Hell out of it , but to eficient limits and switching for my standard one,
but need to know what can port and what not.
Alex
so JUST TO make sure the XFR runs a EATON 112M right, what generation??
dose Anyone have info about porting this charger, Posibly Picks of BEFORE AND AFTER, I am thinking of getting a new or good condition one, porting the Hell out of it , but to eficient limits and switching for my standard one,
but need to know what can port and what not.
Alex
#2
#3
Join Date: Feb 2014
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#4
#5
Yes it would help if we knew what car you are talking about?
But you mention XFR and that ONLY came with the 5.0L and the TVS blower.
If you have a 4.2L SC then that engine has the M112 blower.
You have the pulleys done but what about the tune?
You get a LOT with a tune on these DI 5.0L V-8's!
I would forget porting and all that.
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But you mention XFR and that ONLY came with the 5.0L and the TVS blower.
If you have a 4.2L SC then that engine has the M112 blower.
You have the pulleys done but what about the tune?
You get a LOT with a tune on these DI 5.0L V-8's!
I would forget porting and all that.
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#6
Yes .XFR , 2011, SO 5.0 SC, TUNE DONE, pulleys both done , and will change pulley tensioner and belt, as I noticed posible belt slippage on high boost and over 4000 rpm when hot.
but still want more, lol, so thinking porting, method injection, I am thinking under 10s . 1/4 mile , or blow the engine , lol,
but still want more, lol, so thinking porting, method injection, I am thinking under 10s . 1/4 mile , or blow the engine , lol,
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boostedxf (06-11-2022)
#7
Arden Headers, hi flow cats, x pipe and exhaust with a proper tune will do more HP than any of those mods you listed. I think he made 687 hp. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rs-too-200795/
Your biggest problem is traction. You wont be able to get a better time taking weight out of the back. Here is the thing, Traction is a simple math equation. Most people don't realize this. You can just do simple math to add traction. Its contact area x friction coefficient x weight on the tire. So if you take out weight off the drive wheels you are reducing the traction on that tire. Here is another thing you may or may not realize. The XFR is 50/50 weight distribution stock. So taking out a bunch of weight out of the back will make the front heavier than the rear. That will increase understeer and make the car harder to turn. Less weight in the rear will also make it harder to get off the line and come out of a second gear corner. You ruined your car's performance by taking weight out of it. So put everything back in, and get a set of Nitto NT-01. You can fit a 275 in the front and a 305 in the back safely on the stock wheels. This will add traction that you are looking for by adding friction coefficient and contact area to the traction equation. That should help. I could tell you what the biggest gain on the car but you probably don't want to hear it. The biggest improvement you can gain in speed is buying a racing school three day course and learning the basics of racing and applying that over the course of a year and going back every year to fine tune your skills. You may be able to keep up to them with the car as is just by driving the car better than them.
My $0.03
Your biggest problem is traction. You wont be able to get a better time taking weight out of the back. Here is the thing, Traction is a simple math equation. Most people don't realize this. You can just do simple math to add traction. Its contact area x friction coefficient x weight on the tire. So if you take out weight off the drive wheels you are reducing the traction on that tire. Here is another thing you may or may not realize. The XFR is 50/50 weight distribution stock. So taking out a bunch of weight out of the back will make the front heavier than the rear. That will increase understeer and make the car harder to turn. Less weight in the rear will also make it harder to get off the line and come out of a second gear corner. You ruined your car's performance by taking weight out of it. So put everything back in, and get a set of Nitto NT-01. You can fit a 275 in the front and a 305 in the back safely on the stock wheels. This will add traction that you are looking for by adding friction coefficient and contact area to the traction equation. That should help. I could tell you what the biggest gain on the car but you probably don't want to hear it. The biggest improvement you can gain in speed is buying a racing school three day course and learning the basics of racing and applying that over the course of a year and going back every year to fine tune your skills. You may be able to keep up to them with the car as is just by driving the car better than them.
My $0.03
Last edited by Benjamin Jerome Smith; 09-05-2018 at 08:17 AM.
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#8
On, traction, I agree , i have a set of rims orderd that is 10inch wide , so will take bigger tyres , I will be looking at the exhaust next week, thinking of dropping the Cats all together and runnig a by pass to prevent the cell light .
the weight i droped out the back is only about 50kg, will still drop out 60kg from the front, too many elecktric motors in seats i dont use, lol, so balance not issue,
the christmas tree not much issue unfortunately HERE, I wish they used it well, they have a system set up here , THAT dosent penalize if you jump the start, ....... so its just cross the sensor on one end, and other, the lights are there, but you cant red light or jump it, if you do
you , you still get a time, ........ i was still losing out on 2nd and 3rd , gears thats why went with the pulleys first.
alex
the weight i droped out the back is only about 50kg, will still drop out 60kg from the front, too many elecktric motors in seats i dont use, lol, so balance not issue,
the christmas tree not much issue unfortunately HERE, I wish they used it well, they have a system set up here , THAT dosent penalize if you jump the start, ....... so its just cross the sensor on one end, and other, the lights are there, but you cant red light or jump it, if you do
you , you still get a time, ........ i was still losing out on 2nd and 3rd , gears thats why went with the pulleys first.
alex
#9
#10
He is talking about the width of the wheel itself. A wider wheel will allow him to fit an even wider tire, getting him more grip. I am curious as to the maximum width that the rear can fit without clearance issue from the suspension, brake system, or body panels.
#11
I am a little curious at having both the upper and lower pulleys done. Eurotoys itself states that you do not need the upper pulley if you are going with the lower pulley.
My first concern or area for improvement would be the cooling. We have a built in intercooler that even under stock boost has a heat soak problem that is probably robbing you of power. Increase the fluid flow and volume and possibly add a "water wetter" to the mix to pull more heat out.
Belt slippage might also be an issue, there should be a slightly smaller belt available to help avoid this, or you can add a tensioner.
My first concern or area for improvement would be the cooling. We have a built in intercooler that even under stock boost has a heat soak problem that is probably robbing you of power. Increase the fluid flow and volume and possibly add a "water wetter" to the mix to pull more heat out.
Belt slippage might also be an issue, there should be a slightly smaller belt available to help avoid this, or you can add a tensioner.
#14
#16
OK, since dont seem to be able to post picks they here
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-207197/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-207197/
#17
OK i've read both your threads, and I can be 99.9% sure that you're not making any more power in spite of all these modifications, because of the engine tune.
Have a look here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...esults-177494/
Have a look here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...esults-177494/
#18
I DId do the ECU tune before i started all the work, as i figured that was the easieast way, but it didnt give enough of what i was expecting,
thats why i cintinued with mods,
NOW that is not to say my tune might not be the BEST, thats definitely what i am looking at, but not sure how to know what makes a got REMAP.
the company that is available here in Czech Republic, that came and did mine was , QUANTUM,
https://www.quantumchiptuning.cz/chi...+-+Obecne+-+VS
i did ask for the POWER version,
BUT after the tune the cert had 728Nm metters on it, not sure why, they read the ECU, confirmed it had original MAP, send to london branch over the NET, one hour later , get a new file, a rewrote the ECU MAP.
thats why i cintinued with mods,
NOW that is not to say my tune might not be the BEST, thats definitely what i am looking at, but not sure how to know what makes a got REMAP.
the company that is available here in Czech Republic, that came and did mine was , QUANTUM,
https://www.quantumchiptuning.cz/chi...+-+Obecne+-+VS
i did ask for the POWER version,
Chiptuning Quantum Red Power
Před úpravou Po úpravě NárůstVýkon375 KW441 KW66 KWTočivý moment625 Nm746 Nm121 NmBUT after the tune the cert had 728Nm metters on it, not sure why, they read the ECU, confirmed it had original MAP, send to london branch over the NET, one hour later , get a new file, a rewrote the ECU MAP.
#19
#20
I did get a new BELT today, 1444 LONG< also have a 1438 long in Jaguar with new adjuster, so will change that today, as I definetly have belt slipage, if i drive pedal to the metal, i smell rubber burning, when i stop, dont think it can all be from tires, LOL
and i do lose boost at hard and fast accelearion over 4000 rpm,
its much beter cold, The boost stays higher for first you times you accelearate, once hot, drops off. and dosnt pass, 8psi
when cold can reach 11-12 psi
alex
and i do lose boost at hard and fast accelearion over 4000 rpm,
its much beter cold, The boost stays higher for first you times you accelearate, once hot, drops off. and dosnt pass, 8psi
when cold can reach 11-12 psi
alex